Author Topic: Project Quercus - Control Panel 2 (Read 63070 times)

wilno45 · « **on:** November 07, 2009, 03:11:02 pm »

Here goes.....

Finally got time to post my build so far (and have hopefuly figured out how to imbed pictures).

Before anything else I must say a big thank you to all members of this community, no way would I have even begun
anything like this if it wasn't for this forum.

In particular grantspain has been brilliant on the monitor forum and given me (and many others) much needed help getting my monitor
powered up and working.

It was this build log http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68794.0 however that really kick started things for me. ARTIFACT's
brilliant sketchup plans and project log (which I have borrowed from here or there) are the reason I finally got round to starting anything in
the first place.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

(the highly detailed buttons in my plan are not my doing)!!!!

more to come....

edit for spelling as usual

wilno45 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 07, 2009, 03:35:42 pm »

The frame is made of american whie oak 44x44mm (side panel not shown in pictures above)

Most arcade machines use the side panels as part of the structure to give the box it's strength, for some reason
I have abandoned this perfectly sensible idea and decided to make the frame do all the work and have the side, back and front
panels made of plexi glass so you can see inside.

A bit like having a window on a pc case. Which a mame cabinet is if you think about it.

wilno45 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 07, 2009, 04:01:55 pm »

wood arives and brutal looking mitre saw borrowed!

Mitre saw quickly returned!

New mitre saw purchased that can actually cut desired angle!

This thing is awesome. Love this saw and can even use it without waking up the wife and baby.

It's a Nobex champion btw. If you are looking to get a mitre saw this is the one you want.

Gamester · « **Reply #3 on:** November 07, 2009, 04:03:36 pm »

Very ambitious project. I'm a bit skeptical that this can look good, but I certainly hope you prove me wrong!

Best of luck to you!

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #4 on:** November 07, 2009, 04:17:24 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on November 07, 2009, 03:35:42 pm

... the side, back and front panels made of plexi glass so you can see inside.

A bit like having a window on a pc case. Which a mame cabinet is if you think about it.

WoW! Cool idea

wilno45 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 07, 2009, 04:25:24 pm »

Thanks Gamester

I hope so too

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

After a false start with the power saw and some quite frankly crap half lap joints each side of the frame was about 2/3rd's finished when
I decided to cut my losses and start again. I had ordered more wood than I needed but not quite enough, even though I could reuse
most of the wood. I ordered some more timber and had long hard think about how to join this thing together.

Atempt 1... it was never to be

I borrowed the sash clamps off my Dad, they had been sitting in his garden for ages. My Mum was most pleased when
I took them away.

wilno45 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 07, 2009, 05:03:04 pm »

We skip forward here a bit....

I didn't take many photo's of the frame going together unfortunately, time to do anything when you have an 8 month old baby in the house
is lacking.

Things bought

6 sash clamps from screwfix (uk) these were cheap as anything, can't believe I thought I would get away with just 2 iron rusty ones.
You can never have too many clamps. NEVER!

Possibly the worst photo taken ever.....

plexi glass sample pack ordered - i am liking the middle one so far.

Miller dowel

I really like this idea - so glad I found it, no screws used at all. You just glue > clamp > then use a special drill bit and then glue and insert the dowel. Wait for the glue to go off then trim away excess...

wilno45 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 07, 2009, 05:23:39 pm »

This is where I am about a week ago....

the high's and low's of wood joinery..... measure....cut....crap....glue/clamp anyway....hope no one will notice!

Yvan256 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 07, 2009, 06:05:05 pm »

drventure · « **Reply #9 on:** November 07, 2009, 06:16:33 pm »

Now THIS is my kinda project!

Awesome idea. and very nice execution (though, come on dude, you should totally be dovetailing those joints!)

I'm assuming (hoping and praying) you're planning on staining and finishing that wood, not painting, right?

Anyway, this could end up looking very cool. I'll be watching this thread definitely!

wilno45 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 07, 2009, 06:26:19 pm »

Thanks guy's

Really appreciate the positive feedback.

Dovetail!

At one point (2 bottle's of wine and the sketchup flowing I was going to pactail)!

Cheers

Off to bed, night all.

edit.

Shellac/wax I think?

monkey puzzle · « **Reply #11 on:** November 07, 2009, 07:17:13 pm »

Excellent looking project! I'm really impressed how you can cut wood at all those strange angles, and then get everything to fit together with such clean joints. If I tried doing something like that there would be gaps everywhere.

drventure · « **Reply #12 on:** November 07, 2009, 09:52:17 pm »

Quote

At one point (2 bottle's of wine and the sketchup flowing I was going to pactail)!

Oh, man, would that be an awesome little detail. Esp doing the frame in red oak or walnut and the joinery in ash or maple.

You could submit to BYOAC AND Fine Woodworking!

emphatic · « **Reply #13 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:53:14 am »

Sweet lord that's some special skills!

Shortbus · « **Reply #14 on:** November 08, 2009, 08:31:53 am »

Very cool idea....maybe one day be displayed in the smithsonian for all to view the guts of an arcade machine.....

whats wrong with the mitre saw you borrowed? I have the same one, it was a bargain and keep the blade sharp, your good to go..no problems here, and I'd rather suck farts out of a dead monkey than handsaw anything, ever.....But great idea and fine woodworking skills you have there, as usual on this forum, I'm envious......Maybe I'll put my next project up there to provide a good laugh,

. I enjoy it, thats all that counts......work in progress.

thanks, I'll be watching, keep the pics flowing,,,looks like you figured out how to embed them...cool

wilno45 · « **Reply #15 on:** November 08, 2009, 09:41:58 am »

Hi Shortbus

Just couldn't get on with it tbh. Might be ok if the one I used had a finer blade (the blowout was terrible) and it was set up correctly.

I looked into loads of ways that wood can be joined and although dovetails/pactails/SpaceInvadertails would be fantastic there is no
way I could do it properly.

I'll post some more pic's later if I get the chance, I always prefer having the pictures in the post when I read some one else's project
so I am glad I figured out how to.

Thanks for watching and all the feedback.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 08, 2009, 10:11:29 am »

My original plan was to route out a 3mm x10mm channel in the back of the frame so the plexi could sit in and be nice and flush. I was
going to do this before I stuck everything together to make it easier.

I quickly discovered me and routers do not get on particularly well together.

Plan 2 was to have the plexi sit on top of the frame and bevel the ends so they join up nicely. (might still do this)

So far this is plan 3.

Very annoying dent there!

I use wood glue normally but had to resort to epoxy on this top support because I could not for the life
of me clamp it.

drventure · « **Reply #17 on:** November 08, 2009, 10:57:27 am »

I've got a Bosch Compound Mitre saw. One of the best purchases I've made, but I was still getting blowout in many cases.

I was looking through one of my Dad's old Fine Woodworking mags once, and the author suggested cutting a scrap at an appropriate angle then clamping that BEHIND the piece you're actually cutting on the saw, so that the cut is exactly lined up with the edge of the scrap.

Presto no more blowout, regardless of the wood, angle, or grain pattern.

And you save your sawing arm in the process!

Now, you realize your going to HAVE to move the coin slots somewhere up hi and put some sort of rube goldberg contraption on the inside, where the coin falls through a maze of tubes, gizmos, ferris wheels, flashing LEDS, etc, just like what happens on the inside of those opaque cabs (it's all magic you know

)

Here's an example (arcade related no less!)

http://live.psu.edu/stilllife/1988

Ond · « **Reply #18 on:** November 08, 2009, 05:45:42 pm »

Sheesh, how can I not comment on this effort! Great craftsmanship and great idea, that frame conjures up all manner of ideas (You've got drventure's attention well and truly

).

The nice thing about angle cuts is so long as you do the math and get them right everything fits beautifully and looks great. You could go the stained and varnished timber look OR you could completely seal the frame and spray in a cool color

blasphemy!

. Nice work man and a fresh and original idea to boot. I don't post often in many folks threads (not that much in my own even) but you can be sure I'll be a follower of this one.

drventure · « **Reply #19 on:** November 08, 2009, 09:14:25 pm »

@Ond How did I know you'd somehow end up following this thread too

OverRide · « **Reply #20 on:** November 08, 2009, 11:27:34 pm »

Great work. Looking forward to watching your progress.

wilno45 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 09, 2009, 05:20:46 am »

Some of the cuts (this one is 158.2 degrees) you just don't look forward to. Not because I had to cut it by hand btw!

Thankfully Sketchup did the maths not me

It was ok in the end, I had put off doing it for ages...

It's the bits you think are a no brainer that turn out to be a real pain.

lucky I have lot's of these...

Off for a couple of days now to a place with no internet - back for the weekend.

Cheers

thatitalian · « **Reply #22 on:** November 09, 2009, 06:51:23 am »

Man, I know how you feel about Mitre Saws!

I had to cut some coving (see my house thread) 4 times before I realised that the saw doesn't actually cut the correct angles! Instead I whipped out my trusty manual saw with guide and cut it once!

Great idea and awesome looking, that wood looks lush? You gonna put some antique wax on there?

Nice to see another UK BYOACer!

Franco B · « **Reply #23 on:** November 09, 2009, 10:15:07 am »

Very nice indeed!

I don't think I would ever get all those angles to match up as nicely as you have.

What thickness acrylic are you going to use? I imagine you would want 5mm+

Quote from: thatitalian on November 09, 2009, 06:51:23 am

Nice to see another UK BYOACer!

+1

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #24 on:** November 09, 2009, 10:15:45 am »

Quote from: thatitalian on November 09, 2009, 06:51:23 am

Nice to see another UK BYOACer!

Likewise !

shrunkenmaster · « **Reply #25 on:** November 09, 2009, 10:22:22 am »

Also likewise!

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #26 on:** November 09, 2009, 10:48:27 am »

Quote from: shrunkenmaster on November 09, 2009, 10:22:22 am

Also likewise!

Rodney you Plonker!

drventure · « **Reply #27 on:** November 09, 2009, 11:20:06 am »

hehe. angles. Fun stuff.

I have a power hand joiner that works wonders for making corrections to angle cuts that I didn't get right the first time (and god knows, I seem to never get them right the first time )

Ryglore · « **Reply #28 on:** November 09, 2009, 12:36:26 pm »

Quote from: drventure on November 09, 2009, 11:20:06 am

hehe. angles. Fun stuff.

*Shiver* Though I've gotten the hang of angles I think I did 5-6 miss cuts last night when I was making my angle cuts. Of course all I have is a table saw with the blade set to the angle.

Nice work on this cab! I can't wait to see all that framework stained!

(+_+) · « **Reply #29 on:** November 09, 2009, 04:19:21 pm »

Great job so far. I created an inner frame as well. It'll be a tank just like my cab.

Look forward to seeing your progress.

wilno45 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 13, 2009, 08:24:59 am »

Thanks all, mange tout.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/comedy/onlyfools/lingo/euro.shtml - may be of help to some....

Franco B

3mm at the back and top to help keep weight/cost down (might be too thin/and need more support).

5, 8, or 10mm at the front to support a coin door.

I am hoping to use 15mm for the side panels.

thatitalian

I am definitely thinking of using wax at the moment and might use some Shellac Sanding Sealer to give a smooth finish
or not and leave it more open grain.

This is the monitor I got off ebay...

A Hantarex Polo 28"

The PC you can see is the first one I built about 6/7 years ago. It has a nvidia 6800GT in it and some
type of AMD chip which was popular at the time. All to be decased I think.

I didn't notice any screen burn when I hooked it all up for the first time, je suis je reste.

I took great care so that no one could possibly trip on a loose cable!

wilno45 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 13, 2009, 09:22:07 am »

Forgot to post a picture I have of the base. It's 17mm european oak which I got along with the timber for the frame from
Champion's Timber merchant.

It measures 1800mm x 600mm. I am not sure yet whether to get a piece trimmed down to 15mm and use that in control panel
along with 2mm of plexi, or just use plexi layers to make up 17mm thickness.

I overcut the base by 5mm and planned it down as best I could. Beware planning along endgrain is all I will say.

The max width of 600mm (it was 605mm when it turned up thankfully) ended up having a big say in the finished design.

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #32 on:** November 13, 2009, 09:51:56 am »

Ah, that's nothing that can't be fixed with a little wonderfil

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2003&Max=999

That stuff is fantastic for dings like that (and I definitely have experience in that dept

)

wilno45 · « **Reply #33 on:** November 13, 2009, 11:29:15 am »

Hi drventure

I'll take a look at that later thanks.

For a laugh here are some early goes at Sketchup....

Please note - Buttons and (modified) side panel are from Artifact's Sketchup plans.

Notice the bizzare joinery at the top! And me worried that monitor wont fit. I still am a bit.

I was originally going to route out 17mm in the base of the frame for the bottom panel.

This one is really old.

cont...

drventure · « **Reply #34 on:** November 13, 2009, 11:40:31 am »

Damn that's gonna look cool

You SO need to put a claw game inside that thing, with a bunch of stuffed rabbits at the bottom!

That or lots of RGB LEDs, cold cathodes, lasers and a disco ball....what, too much?

wilno45 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 13, 2009, 11:57:24 am »

This is the current design..

Had to angle the back up at 93.4 degrees due to the dimensions of the base wood I mentioned earlier and
the fact I was now not going to route out a space for it.

Not sure if side panel to be one piece or several yet....

Might add extra support, run out of wood at the moment though..

Too much maybe...

Extra support other way round???

edit - images added

jasonbar · « **Reply #36 on:** November 13, 2009, 12:24:58 pm »

Let me add my admiration to the long list of fans you already have:

This is a great build!

-Jason

vrf · « **Reply #37 on:** November 13, 2009, 04:21:51 pm »

Quote from: drventure on November 13, 2009, 11:40:31 am

Damn that's gonna look cool

You SO need to put a claw game inside that thing, with a bunch of stuffed rabbits at the bottom!

That would be so awesome.

Gamester · « **Reply #38 on:** November 13, 2009, 04:29:00 pm »

Okay, you can completely disregard my previous skepticism... this looks like it could be really awesome!

I also love the suggestion of making the coin insert into a patchinko machine type thing. If you're gonna do a clear cab, there better be some cool stuff to look at in there!

drventure · « **Reply #39 on:** November 13, 2009, 05:34:09 pm »

@wilno45

I bet now you're regretting posting, eh? We've just added about 10 months to your project

But seriously, this is a very cool idea.

BASS! · « **Reply #40 on:** November 13, 2009, 07:44:40 pm »

Hmmmm I think a fish tank would be awesome, but thats just me

Ryglore · « **Reply #41 on:** November 13, 2009, 10:30:36 pm »

Quote from: drventure on November 13, 2009, 05:34:09 pm

@wilno45

I bet now you're regretting posting, eh? We've just added about 10 months to your project

But seriously, this is a very cool idea.

Some projects are worth an extra 10 months.

wilno45 · « **Reply #42 on:** November 14, 2009, 02:44:47 am »

Thanks for all the support guys, unfortunately that's about as far as I have got for now.

I am sorry to announce that bunny rabbits, fish and giant claws will probably not be incorporated
into the final design.

Thanks for watching and I'll update as soon as possible.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #43 on:** November 22, 2009, 03:33:29 pm »

Small update.

Had about 3 hours in the last week to do anything.

Got some more of these support things done... mustn't go overboard though...

vvv 5mm space left this time to support coin door. Hope it's enough.

I was always worried the top of the frame wouldn't be strong enough so quickly added some reinforcement
early on. Unfortunately I used two square blocks to do this but later decided on triangular for the
rest... it just didn't look right TBH. So I got out the only tool a British schoolboy is allowed to use unsupervised
in woodworking class.

I have some sanding to do!

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #44 on:** November 22, 2009, 06:06:04 pm »

This is looking great! Just quit the job to get this done faster

wilno45 · « **Reply #45 on:** November 22, 2009, 06:43:26 pm »

Thanks mate,

Need the day job though...

drventure · « **Reply #46 on:** November 22, 2009, 07:19:52 pm »

Oh, I know. I'm just gettin' greedy for the pics and progress.

I'm taking the week off for thanksgiving (and to work on the frame for my monitor, double thanksgiving!)

wilno45 · « **Reply #47 on:** December 09, 2009, 05:15:11 pm »

Got a fair bit done today...

Much better than last week where I just couldn't make up my mind what to do, just going round
in circles and changing my mind every 20 minutes.

I needed one more piece of wood for the monitor to sit on and as there is a merchant near my parents
house and they were coming round in a few days I got my Dad to pick it up for me. I need 615mm so I
think get about a metre and a half incase I make a mistake... he turns up with 3000mm lol.

Turns out to be a good thing - I haven't picked up the monitor for ages and it's now twice as heavy
as I remember.

More support required....

wilno45 · « **Reply #48 on:** December 09, 2009, 05:25:45 pm »

Not much more structural stuff to do now, have to chisel/route out a 3mm space in these top supports
and a few small odd jobs left but should finally be ready to finish the wood soon.

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #49 on:** December 09, 2009, 05:27:19 pm »

Wow, that is going to be a pain in the --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- to finish out with all the little angles and nooks, but it should look awesome!

Oh, and dust on the couch! Gotta love that!

ammitz · « **Reply #50 on:** December 09, 2009, 06:44:54 pm »

beautiful craftmanship, I'm definately following this thread for progress.

Nacimroc · « **Reply #51 on:** December 09, 2009, 06:49:34 pm »

This is nuts! I hope your not going to cover that frame? Shame to see that craftsmanship being covered up! Frame and acrylic all the way!

wilno45 · « **Reply #52 on:** December 13, 2009, 04:00:19 pm »

Been mucking around with sketchup today, trying to get an impression of how things will
look. There are some great arcade models out there to import!

I did the U-track (does it mount 45 degrees to how I have it)? The rest are other peoples hard work,
probably someone on this forum no doubt.

Wells Gardner - suprised it fits - if it's to scale, might save up.

love the door.

Cheers and thanks for all the nice replies earlier.

wilno45 · « **Reply #53 on:** December 13, 2009, 04:55:45 pm »

Couldn't resist, this would look cool. Not sure how safe it would be....

drventure · « **Reply #54 on:** December 13, 2009, 05:33:39 pm »

What is that last picture? Can't quite tell. Smoke generator?

wilno45 · « **Reply #55 on:** December 13, 2009, 05:44:03 pm »

Water cooling, it's a radiator - completely pointless of course. hehe

edit - ahh got it

doh

Bender · « **Reply #56 on:** December 13, 2009, 06:35:11 pm »

Great sketch-up work!

Can't wait to see this thing finished, great idea!

the Utrack installs 45 degrees from the way you have it

drventure · « **Reply #57 on:** December 13, 2009, 06:41:30 pm »

Ah, Water cooling. That'd be cool. But I'd be a tad concerned about hanging a water tank over an exposed tube monitor

This thing is really looking good.

I still say with all the plex, you need something like this inside

http://zachmann.com/small%20scale.htm

If I had the metalworking skills, I'd probably have to try something like that myself.

wilno45 · « **Reply #58 on:** December 13, 2009, 08:27:33 pm »

Yeah me too.

Thought it looked wrong thanks Bender.

Safer me thinks...

They even have my motherboard.

I'll put something inside but not this...

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #59 on:** December 13, 2009, 09:13:10 pm »

oh, wait.

ammitz · « **Reply #60 on:** December 14, 2009, 03:48:29 am »

Quote from: drventure on December 13, 2009, 06:41:30 pm

I still say with all the plex, you need something like this inside
http://zachmann.com/small%20scale.htm

OMG it's cool, I wan't to build something like that

http://zachmann.com/Images1/Artwork/YouTube%20Videos/435.htm

Knave Jack · « **Reply #61 on:** December 14, 2009, 10:20:28 am »

Quote from: drventure on December 13, 2009, 06:41:30 pm

Ah, Water cooling. That'd be cool. But I'd be a tad concerned about hanging a water tank over an exposed tube monitor

This thing is really looking good.

I still say with all the plex, you need something like this inside

http://zachmann.com/small%20scale.htm

If I had the metalworking skills, I'd probably have to try something like that myself.

You know its funny you should mention his stuff. I have been pondering a build with something like this inside. The amount of work involved is quite overwhelming. I have been trying to think of a way to use a quarter instead of a ball. Something like using an antique coin slot and then you watch the path of the quarter before you can play.

drventure · « **Reply #62 on:** December 14, 2009, 10:29:59 am »

A quarter track would be perfect if you could pull it off. The prob I see is jams. A quarter would likely be a lot more difficult to keep on track than a ball bearing.

OTOH I could totally see the quarter falling down a simple track only to "trigger" something that then causes all the balls to engage and start working.

If Wilno +really+ wants a challenge (God I'm good at making work eh?), he could go with something like this guys work on the inside...

http://www.woodthatworks.com/

Now you're talking some +SERIOUS+ shop time...

wilno45 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 15, 2009, 06:26:37 am »

A coin track and perspex box to catch it in would be great but damm tricky to pull off.

I'm normally just content that when I cut a bit of wood it fits!

http://zachmann.com/small%20scale.htm - I'll knock one up after lunch -

drventure · « **Reply #64 on:** December 15, 2009, 08:08:18 am »

Cool. While you're at it throw one together for me too

Knave Jack · « **Reply #65 on:** December 15, 2009, 12:05:38 pm »

Me too. If your making 2, one more should be no big deal.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #66 on:** December 15, 2009, 12:08:51 pm »

Who says you have to use coins for credits?

Rig up a track, and use polished pinballs. Hawt.

drventure · « **Reply #67 on:** December 15, 2009, 12:11:50 pm »

Wonder what that would be like, going to the arcade with a pocket full of pinballs

emphatic · « **Reply #68 on:** December 15, 2009, 01:47:28 pm »

Quote from: drventure on December 15, 2009, 12:11:50 pm

Wonder what that would be like, going to the arcade with a pocket full of pinballs

Are you going to the arcade, or are you just happy to see me?

Knave Jack · « **Reply #69 on:** December 15, 2009, 02:23:23 pm »

I am going to just bypass the obvious jokes to be made on the pinball thing. I have been thinking about the track for the quarter, and I think it "should" be fairly easy. It just cant do most of the tricks the marbles can. I like the idea of the quarter starting the animation of the marbles. Reset might be a bit interesting. Hmmmm.

ammitz · « **Reply #70 on:** December 16, 2009, 06:21:55 am »

Quote from: Knave Jack on December 15, 2009, 02:23:23 pm

I am going to just bypass the obvious jokes to be made on the pinball thing. I have been thinking about the track for the quarter, and I think it "should" be fairly easy. It just cant do most of the tricks the marbles can. I like the idea of the quarter starting the animation of the marbles. Reset might be a bit interesting. Hmmmm.

Made a drawing, to make my thoughts clearer.

When you drop a quarter it'll activate the motor lifting the marbel up to the top and setting it free. When the marbel is almost near the end, it'll pass another switch cutting the power to the motor. Then the marbel will end up at the starting point ready for a new quarter.

Should be simpel?

Knave Jack · « **Reply #71 on:** December 16, 2009, 09:28:32 am »

Yep, that is basically what im talking about. I would really like the quarter to start high, like the old penny arcade machines and travel down and around the inside of the cab. So i would be doing something like the cabinet this post was started for. I think i need to move this to a new post so we dont take anything away from the amazing cab in this post. I am eagerly waiting to see how the acrylic turns out on the sides.

wilno45 · « **Reply #72 on:** December 17, 2009, 05:27:07 pm »

Again I can't thank you guy's enough for all the great reply's and ideas. Until you post a thread of your own you
don't realise how important they all are.....

I have drawn a line in the sand - frame will be finished/polished by 30 Dec. Cause that's when I am back at work.
No excuses.

Been out X-mas shopping today - Old school.......will be wrapped by UPS no doubt!

Happy X-mas

edit - spelling

drventure · « **Reply #73 on:** December 17, 2009, 07:27:47 pm »

Nice. Leaf switches, eh?

You know, I've +really+ been wanting to pick up one of those mini tabletop lathes to try my hand at a few cherry/mahogony buttons.

Your cab's making me want to even more.

Blanka · « **Reply #74 on:** December 18, 2009, 01:57:00 am »

With those woodworking skills it would be total blasphemy to cover the frame in "cough" particleboard. Maybe you can route out edges and put plexi in the frame to make the beams into window frames.

Quote from: wilno45 on November 22, 2009, 03:33:29 pm

I was always worried the top of the frame wouldn't be strong enough so quickly added some reinforcement
early on.

With good glue, and MDF as sheet material, actually WITHOUT frame is even strong enough

painterinfo · « **Reply #75 on:** December 18, 2009, 05:33:28 am »

Awsome Sketchup skills and fantastic workmanship. I just love the way you can design something in sketchup and watch it magically appear in the real world. Bring on the nanolithing machines.

wilno45 · « **Reply #76 on:** December 18, 2009, 07:03:03 am »

Got the top supports chiseled out this morning - it was strangely therapeutic and only took half an hour which was odd...

Also been mucking around with some of the off cuts.

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #77 on:** December 18, 2009, 08:04:02 am »

Nice. That beeswax is pretty amazing. I used some on smoe maple climbing boards I recently helped my brother build. Fantastic finish!

Are you're plans to cover the whole frame in plex, or to put plex "windows" between the framing members?

wilno45 · « **Reply #78 on:** December 18, 2009, 08:37:07 am »

Front, top and back - between - is the plan at the moment. Side panels will fit outside and will have to be semi removable
as I won't be able to get it through the door otherwise. I am going to use wood insert nuts and stainless steel machine screws
to hold all the plastic in place. I might hinge some bits, not sure yet tbh.

http://www.profhdwr.com/55008pic.jpg

The side panels will be the last thing added, unfortunately 12/15mm plexi/poly of that size isn't cheap and I will have to save up!

Beeswax is easy to apply as well, even I can't screw that up.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #79 on:** December 20, 2009, 02:31:07 pm »

Almost there today, all supports DONE! I can't tell you how much a pain in the arse these have
been - no fun whatsoever in the end.If I never see one again etc.... (you lot too probably)......

Monitor is a really tight fit so am in process of hammering back these side supports so they are at 90
degrees. They previously attached from the outside and putting them on the inside (so it might fit)
made them jut out a bit too far, about 100 degrees.

These should arrive soon.... then I can start sanding everything.

Cheers

edit - not for spelling this time.

kizer · « **Reply #80 on:** December 23, 2009, 06:39:08 pm »

Like mentioned please do not cover all that wood craftsmanship. That is simply mind blowing. If I had it my way I would leave it totally open and carefully route wires so they are clean, but leave it completely open because that is simply amazing to see.

Heck go nob and tube like they used to in the old days.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knob_and_tube_wiring

drventure · « **Reply #81 on:** December 23, 2009, 07:22:09 pm »

I'd never heard of Knob and tube wiring. Great stuff.

And definitely keep the pics coming!

wilno45 · « **Reply #82 on:** December 24, 2009, 03:45:23 pm »

Iv'e never heard of it either, they built things properly back then. Looks good.

Not going to cover it up so you can't see anything but will have to put something there to stop little fingers, drinks and a stupid
cat from going bang.

A single snowflake landed last week on 27L at Heathrow and since then the country has grinded to a halt so my bits haven't arrived
in the post and what with all the relatives to visit.....

Have been experimenting/researching with the finish and decided I would like to try some Danish, Tung, or Linseed oil and see how that looks
compared with just wax.

Happy Christmas all.

TEKNYNE · « **Reply #83 on:** December 24, 2009, 06:53:16 pm »

Hope everyone is joking about the nob and tube wiring, big time fire and shock hazard if not done properly (I am a electrician)! Most insurance companies in the states wont even insure a house with that type of wiring in it.

Wilno45 great job on this build it has been interesting to watch this cab take shape so cleanly.

drventure · « **Reply #84 on:** December 24, 2009, 07:14:01 pm »

Oh, I wasn't suggesting using that for any kind of high voltage stuff. It looks like a nice way to run LED control wires and such around if you want them to show.

Yeah, I'm sure there's lots of reasons that sort of stuff isn't used anymore

wilno45 · « **Reply #85 on:** December 27, 2009, 12:38:24 pm »

Trust me, I'm **** scared by electricity, won't be doing anything silly.

I was pleased with the Beeswax, but it wasn't quite what I wanted.

Bought some Danish oil and it looks exactly like I hoped it would.

Finally the post arrives, still waiting on leaf switches though.

Heavy sanding is done, now 120 grit then 180.

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #86 on:** December 27, 2009, 01:42:03 pm »

Niiiiice!

wilno45 · « **Reply #87 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:15:37 pm »

Thanks mate, power sander woke up the little one so had to stop for today. Was soooo close......

wilno45 · « **Reply #88 on:** December 28, 2009, 02:54:34 pm »

Busy day....

Had six hours to myself and got a load done. Our house now has a thin layer of sawdust covering everything.

Paranoid me added a little more last minute structural help....

First coat is done and a couple of hours dry......

cont...

wilno45 · « **Reply #89 on:** December 28, 2009, 02:58:25 pm »

cont...

wilno45 · « **Reply #90 on:** December 28, 2009, 03:00:49 pm »

Was dark by the time I added the oil - looking forward to seeing it in daylight!

Cheers.

emphatic · « **Reply #91 on:** December 28, 2009, 06:47:57 pm »

Beautiful!

drventure · « **Reply #92 on:** December 28, 2009, 08:27:05 pm »

Very Nice.

Just curious, are you going to give the same treatment to the internal mounting bits (like how you'll be mounting the motherboard, etc).

And damn. I see a LOT of cable wrap in your future

wilno45 · « **Reply #93 on:** December 29, 2009, 03:54:14 am »

Not sure yet drventure, I just can't wait to get everything cleared away and swept up. You're right about the cable wrap - my own fault.

What I don't want is a big white smartstrip/powerstrip/intellipanel thing on display, why don't they make these things in black?

Cheers

saurian333 · « **Reply #94 on:** December 29, 2009, 09:00:18 am »

Oh man, that is freaking gorgeous work. All those mitre cuts and hole plugs...I like woodworking, but I don't think I have the patience for something like that!

The oil brings out the color really nicely; I like how that turned out.

Incredible job! I'll be following.

drventure · « **Reply #95 on:** December 29, 2009, 09:03:28 am »

Quote

What I don't want is a big white smartstrip/powerstrip/intellipanel thing on display, why don't they make these things in black?

you know, you might want to build a hinged wood box with some cable exit slots to hide that kind of stuff. Stain it like the rest and it'd look very nice in there. Heck, put a fancy fan grill and an led behind it, and it could actually be a nice element in the design.

wilno45 · « **Reply #96 on:** December 29, 2009, 11:52:27 am »

Not like drventure to create work for me.

Think I'm done with woodwork for a while though - I want everything to be seen (just not ugly white bits of plastic)!

Still, I forgot to do top supports that hold the plexi where the speakers go so almost done.

I like the idea of having some bits of plexi hinged so am researching them at the moment - wife's eyes roll....

Maybe the marque, top panel and all three on the control panel so it all opens up. Maybe even the side panels, who knows.

edit - Looking at spot lighting too, forgot to add.

drventure · « **Reply #97 on:** December 29, 2009, 11:58:25 am »

There's lots of black powerstrips out there.

http://www.google.com/products?q=black+power+strip&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=bjQ6S_HOMpHdlAeRl_2hBw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CC0QrQQwAA

I'd grab some black, or maybe UV cable wrap to tidy them all up. That could look right proper.

I like that last sketch model, but are you planning on using 3/4 plex? That's what it kinda looks like. Or am I just reading the shot wrong. Would that be heavy? or no more so than MDF?

wilno45 · « **Reply #98 on:** December 29, 2009, 12:11:18 pm »

I wanted one of those clever ones that power everything of when you switch off the computer - think I saw a US one searching
late one night and I could put US plugs on but not sure if it could handle the voltage difference.

This is my other option http://www.oneclickpower.com/store/gbu0-prodshow/TVA106.html - would have PC and monitor cables running
out the back via kettleplug connections. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=218978

Thinking of 12 or 15mm for the sides - yep it will be heavy!

Polycarbonate (lexan) - more expensive, but more forgiving.

Acrylic - slightly cheaper, craaaack!

Might get it custom cut!

drventure · « **Reply #99 on:** December 29, 2009, 12:14:41 pm »

Very cool. Are you going to finish the edges or put tmold on? I'd think finishing and polishing the edges would be FAR more impressive looking. But I'm guessing that'd have to be professionally done? I've never worked with stuff like that before.

Very interested to see where this is going!

wilno45 · « **Reply #100 on:** December 29, 2009, 01:26:06 pm »

No, no t-molding for me - I agree, polished edges would look best. I've cut some small pieces in the past and they were ok-ish
trouble is they show up every mistake. People swear routers are the best thing to use, never tried myself though.

I will definitely have a go at the thinner panels myself though - quite fancy engraving some artwork on the back or some kind
of stained glass thing.

Cheers

saurian333 · « **Reply #101 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:35:27 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on December 29, 2009, 12:11:18 pm

Thinking of 12 or 15mm for the sides - yep it will be heavy!

Polycarbonate (lexan) - more expensive, but more forgiving.

Wow, that's heavy duty; should be pretty awesome. You're not kidding about it being expensive though; Lexan is expensive even at .1"!

wilno45 · « **Reply #102 on:** January 01, 2010, 02:21:19 pm »

Thanks saurian333

They are not hole plugs btw, they are (miller) dowels. Until I screwed in the feet it could have passed through
airport security!

Don't think I'll be using Lexan as it's about 50% more expensive than acrylic. I'm not
going to kick it. Thinner pannels seem to be cheapest in the UK from greenhouse suppliers.

http://www.casupply.co.uk/acatalog/solid_acrylic_sheets.html

Once the thickness goes up - 12 X 1800 X 900mm X 2 - ouch!

http://www.plasticonline.co.uk/ have given me the best price so far for 12/15mm.

Cheers

edit - crap - just realized I am building a greenhouse and putting in electrical things that generate heat!

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #103 on:** January 01, 2010, 03:26:01 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on January 01, 2010, 02:21:19 pm

edit - crap - just realized I am building a greenhouse and putting in electrical things that generate heat!

This might not help cooling but could but useful?

wilno45 · « **Reply #104 on:** January 01, 2010, 03:32:25 pm »

http://sherav.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/marijuana2.jpg - nice little sideline!

Before someone says it - I am not going to grow illicit drugs in my arcade machine!

RobbyMac · « **Reply #105 on:** January 01, 2010, 04:54:54 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on January 01, 2010, 02:21:19 pm

edit - crap - just realized I am building a greenhouse and putting in electrical things that generate heat!

Well you can always put a big patio type outdoor thermometer inside it!

Maybe even a sundial!

drventure · « **Reply #106 on:** January 01, 2010, 07:58:09 pm »

Don't worry, unless you're gonna put it right in front of an open window (and I wouldn't do that just for the sake of the wood, not to mention reflections), the plex won't have any adverse effect on cooling. Just leave vent slots and throw on a few case fans, it'll be fine.

Illicit drugs

That would be hilarious. Throw some blueish grow lamps in there....

saurian333 · « **Reply #107 on:** January 01, 2010, 09:31:10 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on January 01, 2010, 03:32:25 pm

http://sherav.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/marijuana2.jpg - nice little sideline!

Before someone says it - I am not going to grow illicit drugs in my arcade machine!

Wow...I don't think I'd do it either, but it would make a sweet picture!

Quote from: wilno45 on January 01, 2010, 02:21:19 pm

They are not hole plugs btw, they are (miller) dowels. Until I screwed in the feet it could have passed through
airport security!

Oh, that's even better. See, if I tried putting something together with dowels, I'm sure it would fall apart! I rely on screws for everything. You've done an awesome job though; that's some serious woodworking.

Nacimroc · « **Reply #108 on:** January 01, 2010, 10:38:14 pm »

Looking great!

I used these to buy my acrylic from! (They posted to Ireland). cheap delivery aswell!

http://www.hindleys.com/materials/plastics-and-foam/

As few years ago i read a topic on a acrylic PC case and I remember every talking about how it would cause alot of static build up! I couldn't figure out how it could but I'm no genius, but it may be something to look into!

saurian333 · « **Reply #109 on:** January 01, 2010, 11:40:01 pm »

Quote from: Nacimroc on January 01, 2010, 10:38:14 pm

As few years ago i read a topic on a acrylic PC case and I remember every talking about how it would cause alot of static build up! I couldn't figure out how it could but I'm no genius, but it may be something to look into!

Funny, if that was a real problem, you'd think they wouldn't manufacture and sell the things retail.

I've put together an acrylic case. It was fairly static-y out of the box, but that's mostly from the friction of the packing materials. It goes away after not too long, and I wouldn't imagine it being much of a problem. I also have a friend who's been running his PC in an acrylic case for about 2 years now, and he hasn't had any unusual problems.

...Well, he is running Windows, but that's not the case's fault.

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #110 on:** January 02, 2010, 05:15:22 am »

Quote from: saurian333 on January 01, 2010, 11:40:01 pm

...Well, he is running Windows, but that's not the case's fault.

kizer · « **Reply #111 on:** January 04, 2010, 07:05:20 pm »

Quote from: TEKNYNE on December 24, 2009, 06:53:16 pm

Hope everyone is joking about the nob and tube wiring, big time fire and shock hazard if not done properly (I am a electrician)! Most insurance companies in the states wont even insure a house with that type of wiring in it.

Wilno45 great job on this build it has been interesting to watch this cab take shape so cleanly.

I didn't mean literally do it that way. I just meant if he shows off his wiring right it can look cool opposed to hiding it or worse just have it loose hanging around and would be a total shame to close everything all up since its obvious hes put forth so much effort on everything else. I would never suggest anybody to build a death trap or a fire waiting to happen.

wilno45 · « **Reply #112 on:** January 09, 2010, 01:10:05 pm »

Thanks for the link Nacimroc, unfortunatly they only do 600mm width and I need 705mm.

Good news is my leaf switches have finally arrived from Lizard Lick

- I know this cause the
taxman wants his 17.5%

, picking them up from the post office depot on monday. I was
really worried they had gone missing as they were posted on the 22nd Dec.

I have ordered 14 black and 2 white ones to use as 1/2 player start buttons - does anyone
know If you can get the 1/2 player start stickers to go on them?

I've also been thinking on how to mount everything on a perspex panel.

Buttons, easy (now I know I've got them), have a forstner bit burning a hole on the shelf.

U-track, was driving me round the bend on how to do this but spoke to Andy at Ultimarc an he
says no problem, the inserts supplied with it work fine. Wish I had emailed him earlier!

Cont.

wilno45 · « **Reply #113 on:** January 09, 2010, 01:19:12 pm »

J-Stik and Ultrastick, think I am going to use a 12mm layer of polycarbonate and route out
a space for both and have them sandwiched between a top layer of acrylic 5mm thick. I think
the (leaf) pushbutons need to be mounted in 17mm, so will wait and see when I get my hands on them
and go from there.

Not at all sure yet if I'll have a spinner, the pushbuttons look like they take up alot of space.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #114 on:** January 20, 2010, 04:45:10 pm »

Sorry, no pic's or anything like that I am afraid.

Unfortunatley Lizard Lick sent the wrong leaf switch holders (short)... I had waited 3 weeks for them!

To their credit though - as soon as I emailed them letting them know - I get a reply straight away apologizing - and the guy (Chad) sent out the correct ones
the next day.

Everyone makes mistakes, nice to know some companies care about their customers. Should be here any day.

Still waiting for Ultimarc to get the J-Stick balltops back in stock..... oh, and my pay check at the end of the month. We get paid a week early in Dec so Jan goes
on forever.

Cheers

saurian333 · « **Reply #115 on:** January 21, 2010, 04:11:50 am »

Quote from: wilno45 on January 20, 2010, 04:45:10 pm

..... oh, and my pay check at the end of the month. We get paid a week early in Dec so Jan goes
on forever.

Ugh, that's always the counterpoint to getting paid early on a holiday week, isn't it? :/

ratzz · « **Reply #116 on:** January 21, 2010, 04:01:23 pm »

WOW! Looks great -- I've not been logged in for a while, so its great to catch up on beautiful designs like these!

drventure · « **Reply #117 on:** January 21, 2010, 06:18:43 pm »

@Wilno45

I +really+ want to see some turned walnut button caps on this cab

hehe, more work, more work!

wilno45 · « **Reply #118 on:** January 22, 2010, 05:34:21 am »

Sorry drventure don't have a lathe, would be a tad difficult to do the screw thread!

I would like the CP hinged but am having a hard time finding the hinge I need. Concealed (European style in US I think)
I thought would work but they tend to be too wide. I need the space they take up for the Joysticks and buttons.

Because I may want to add a glass or screen of some kind over the monitor a 'normal' hinge would push the CP into it as
it opened and TBH there's not much room for the screen as it is.

Could mount the Joysticks 90 degrees to how they are shown but they look beter this way I think, horizontal space is tight.

It's not the end of the world if I can't get it to work, I will have access underneath so I can switch the
J-Stick 4/8 way.

drventure · « **Reply #119 on:** January 22, 2010, 08:51:34 am »

Hehe, no I'm talking about the arcade buttons! But you'd still need a lathe.

Yeah, I had some issues with controls getting placed a little too close to the edges too. My cp has the battlescars to prove it

wilno45 · « **Reply #120 on:** January 22, 2010, 10:56:32 am »

Leaf holders arrived today at last, looks like 16mm thickness for the CP will do nicely. (702mm x 230mm x 8mm) x2.

Joysticks sandwiched in the middle, for the buttons I hope to use a 28mm bit on the top piece and I need a 20mm
forstner bit on the lower piece for the narrower bit of the button.

http://www.btowstore.com/epages/Store2_Shop1349.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store2.Shop1349/Categories/%22Clear%20Acrylic%22/10mm

£90 for one side panel is the cheapest and best compromise at 10mm. I need 900mm x 1800mm.

http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/perspex-faqs-2562-0.html

This place has a formula to work out the weight. About 16kg per side panel after it's cut I estimate.

This might look good if it's thin enough to go in between to sheets - make some kind of artwork/theme out of it?

http://www.alibaba.com/product/tamnguyenvn-11578149-10991508/Pvc_Sponge_Leather_Pvc_Transparent_Sheet_Pvc_Tarpaulin.html

Cheers

Santoro · « **Reply #121 on:** January 31, 2010, 12:02:12 pm »

Mad Joinery skillz!

Can't wait to see the end result.

wilno45 · « **Reply #122 on:** January 31, 2010, 06:55:31 pm »

Thanks

Well forstner bits don't work well in thick plexi I have discovered, unless you go for the
melted look of course.

Hole saw - much better, however the current plan is to make a template out of mdf using the
holesaw and then use the router.

I am trying to find a good way to drill 6mm holes without any cracking. Not having much luck
finding any special acrylic bits in the UK.

I don't own a mapp gas blowtorch, but butane works ok on the edges.... small margin of error
though - too fast and it doesn't work, too slow and it bubbles!

drventure · « **Reply #123 on:** January 31, 2010, 07:58:18 pm »

Wow. Nice results! Bet that took some practice to get right!

That plex is A LOT thicker than I imagined. That's going to look slick.

wilno45 · « **Reply #124 on:** January 31, 2010, 10:52:11 pm »

Sorry drventure, thats not me doing that.

Just a clip I found on my travels.

RobbyMac · « **Reply #125 on:** January 31, 2010, 11:48:02 pm »

not much 'grey area' with torching that stuff. Id say get it cut via cnc/router (sign shops do it cheap) but you'd still probably have to heat the edges for the glass smooth finish. Although, if it cracks during cutting its on their dime not yours

drventure · « **Reply #126 on:** January 31, 2010, 11:54:44 pm »

Doh. Well, looks like that's a good way to do it, in any case. I actually experimented with flame polishing copper when I was working on it. I had several pieces that I'd roughed up with sand paper and a butane torch polished it decently enough, but the buffing wheel seemed to work best.

painterinfo · « **Reply #127 on:** February 01, 2010, 12:21:47 am »

The guy that sold me my plexiglass said I could polish out small scratches with a hot hair dryer and deep ones with a buffing wheel.

I have read a forstner bit is best on plexi, maybe you have to it at a slower speed or cut a couple of mm and then cool?

wilno45 · « **Reply #128 on:** February 01, 2010, 09:49:52 am »

Thanks for the imput guys,

painterinfo - I thought forstner bits were the way to go too, fantastic on wood. Even
going slow the results were no where near as good as the holesaw. I suppose the
forstner bit is removing 100% of the material where as the holesaw just removes about
1mm around the circumferus so less heat perhaps?

This is the bit I am after, can't find it in 6mm anywhere though. Other advise I have got
is to grind down a regular wood bit at the tip so it doesn't bite and crack the acrylic.

saurian333 · « **Reply #129 on:** February 02, 2010, 09:53:25 pm »

I did some testing before I drilled out my CP, and found that a forstner bit just wasn't doing it. Don't know what I was doing wrong, but I had a hell of a time cutting through it at all. They're also very expensive, and I didn't have a 1-1/8" already.

So, what are the other options? I've tried hole saws on plexi before, and they worked OK, but I don't have one in that size (and didn't want to buy one, since for the same price I plan to get a whole set soon, when I can make the trip to Harbor Freight). A regular spade bit got through, but left very rough edges underneath and took quite a while to get through.

Then I tried an Irwin Speed-bor spade bit that I had handy. Holy crap, that thing works wonders on plexi, as long as you've got a piece of scrap underneath. Went and picked one up in the right size for a few bucks and had my CP done in about half an hour. I highly recommend these. If you find the Irwin brand spade bits at your hardware store, the Speed-bors are the ones with the blue painted tips.

wilno45 · « **Reply #130 on:** February 03, 2010, 02:25:48 pm »

Thanks saurian333 I will pick up one of those for sure and give it a go.

I know I am a bit acrylic obsessed at the moment

so I promise not to go on much longer!

This might be of interest to some, it's from a german company but the language is not important.
If you have a project involving plexi etc. some of the vids can be quite educational.

Might need google toolbar toolbar to translate, Achtung!

http://www.serrox.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71

Found the drill bits at last, hope they work...

http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/GB/en/products-groups/additional-products-85fnkzec9ku.html;jsessionid=ED2A4DC3103D3F5E931DB2784C8703F2

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #131 on:** February 04, 2010, 04:10:21 pm »

Why I didn't get the supplier to do this for me I have no idea?

I now have 4 oversize panels so I can get the top and bottom pieces both wrong once.

With the two on top of each other there is still a slight flex to them but I think most of that will go away
when all the buttons are screwed in. It's not much anyhow so no real problem.

I thought they had sent the wrong kind of plexi because of the green edges but it's just the protective
wrapper reflecting apparently.

Cheers

saleem · « **Reply #132 on:** February 04, 2010, 04:28:05 pm »

post plenty of info shots if you can,i am gonna be doing my monitor bezel and cp with a plexiglass cover and i am interested in how to handle this stuff as i will have to do some drilling of stick and button holes.i have to put a small bend in mine though but,thats another story.

i wish you luck and i will be goggling your thread more now that you are doing the plexi work.

drventure · « **Reply #133 on:** February 04, 2010, 04:41:36 pm »

Oooo nice! So the CP will be all plex too? Very cool.

How are you going to hide the wiring though?

About the flexing, I'd imagine that drilling holes for the buttons will make it flex even more, not less. You might want to put a support post or beams under it to prevent that.

And finally, Just had a thought about lighting the plex.

I've seen plenty of examples where it's lit from the edges, but you can't really do that.

However, you COULD drill a hole for a led, then put a countersink in on top of it. Put an inlaid piece in the countersink, such that it now covers the hole and put the LED in the hole from below. Doing that, you could like the cp (or any other plex) from the center outward, so the edges would all glow. use a few RGB leds pointed radially and you could throw off a heck of a light show with LEDWIZ.

wilno45 · « **Reply #134 on:** February 04, 2010, 05:06:30 pm »

saleem, check this link out for bending the stuff - it's one of many in the link a few posts back.

http://www.serrox.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=66

drventure, you may well be right about the flex getting worse. I could always add a metal U bracket
at the back I suppose. Don't know if you know but you can actually buy fluorescent acrylic.

http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/fluorescent-perspex-1282-0.html

The room you see in the pics is getting carpetted next week and it looks like I am going to have to
relocate to the cold garage, which - to put it bluntly - is a trainwreck full of rubbish under an even larger
pile of of stuff I don't want.

Not going to hide the wires, just try and keep em tidy!

Cheers

PS. If this goes wrong, it's a wooden panel for sure. Soooo much nicer to work with.

drventure · « **Reply #135 on:** February 04, 2010, 05:19:08 pm »

Quote

PS. If this goes wrong, it's a wooden panel for sure. Soooo much nicer to work with.

Nooooo. You can't do a wood cp now!

The wiring could be shaped and routed to simulate CP art work. There's actually another thread around about a guy wanting to shine a projector on a frosted cp so that he could actually alter the CP artwork dynamically. There's several different ideas about dealing with the wires there, too.

javeryh · « **Reply #136 on:** February 04, 2010, 05:35:39 pm »

A handsaw?!?!? Use your router and a flush or pattern bit and it cuts the plexi like butter - very precise too. Your best bet would be to make the CP top, button holes and all, out of MDF and then use the router to make a copy out of the plexi - you won't have to worry about cracking it or anything. Great project so far by the way!

wilno45 · « **Reply #137 on:** February 04, 2010, 05:58:43 pm »

I bought a flush trim bit today strangely enough, I am certainly coming round to the idea of using the router for all this. I have never
really used one before this so will need to practice. I have some 'nice' mdf that would make a good template and some forstner bits
which make perfect holes in wood.

I also bought some really fine grit wet and dry paper, the finest being 1200. Had some very good results on a scrap piece working up
through them and then finishing off the edges with the butane.

BTW. can you plunge the bit straight into it or do you need to drill a hole first?

Cheers.

javeryh · « **Reply #138 on:** February 04, 2010, 07:08:03 pm »

I can't believe someone with your woodworking skills has never really used a router before! It is the greatest tool in the shop - you can do almost anything with one. You won't even need to practice - it's that easy! Make your CP top out of the MDF and using your forstner bits for the button holes, clamp the plexi down and go to town with the router. You should be able to plunge right into the plexi without making a starter hole.

wilno45 · « **Reply #139 on:** February 05, 2010, 05:39:54 am »

javeryh, So scrap piece underneath - plexi in the middle - template on top? Or support the plexi and template
from the edges so the router bit exits into nothing.

Thanks

javeryh · « **Reply #140 on:** February 05, 2010, 10:16:13 am »

Quote from: wilno45 on February 05, 2010, 05:39:54 am

javeryh, So scrap piece underneath - plexi in the middle - template on top? Or support the plexi and template
from the edges so the router bit exits into nothing.

Thanks

Definitely only use your CP template and the plexi - no scrap needed. Depending on whether you have a pattern cutting bit (ball bearing on top) or a flush cutting bit (ball bearing on bottom) will determine whether the template goes on the top or bottom as you route (it doesn't matter). I would use a bunch of spring clamps all the way around your CP to hold the template to the plexi. You will have to adjust them to make room for the router as you go around as well as keeping everything clamped to your work bench. Since the CP is somewhat large I'd also use some thin double sided tape to get the plexi to stick to the template - if you use the 3M double sided tape you won't even need the clamps because that stuff holds GREAT and doesn't leave any marks when you peel it off.

It is tough to explain in words so here are some pics of what I mean:

In the first pic I am getting ready to make a copy of bender's DK control panel. I attached the original DK CP (the template) to some MDF to make a copy (which would be the plexi in your case). The second pic shows the setup of my router. You can see the ball bearing rides along the template which is on the bottom making an exact copy. Everything is clamped to my workbench - easy!

wilno45 · « **Reply #141 on:** February 05, 2010, 11:36:04 pm »

javeryh

Thanks for taking the time to show that, very usefull!

Will update when I have some progress...

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #142 on:** February 12, 2010, 04:31:46 pm »

Quite nice to get away from sketchup for a while and do some old fashion planning.

I got out the circular saw which I'm a bit afraid of, and cut the mdf to the reguired depth, in this case 240mm
which allows for some overhang at the front and possibly hinges at the back. I have left it a bit long at the
moment but have marked out everything on it.

The 86mm holesaw is a bit generous but with the trim bezel attached all is well.

I printed the button layout off of slagcoin's website, very useful btw.

So glad I got room for the leaf switches, you can plan as long as you like but your'e never 100% until you see
it in the flesh.

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #143 on:** February 12, 2010, 04:59:21 pm »

Quote

you can plan as long as you like but your'e never 100% until you see
it in the flesh.

Boy, isn't that the story of my life

wilno45 · « **Reply #144 on:** February 12, 2010, 05:58:33 pm »

This is what I'm aiming at.

I think I have worked out how to incorporate a hinge so it can open up from the back.
Working out exactly how far left/right/up/down everything goes at the moment. So indecisive - painterinfo
will have built another cab by the time I make up my mind!

Must go to bed...

painterinfo · « **Reply #145 on:** February 12, 2010, 07:07:13 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on February 12, 2010, 05:58:33 pm

Working out exactly how far left/right/up/down everything goes at the moment. So indecisive - painterinfo
will have built another cab by the time I make up my mind!

Must go to bed...

LOL, that's the trick wilno45 shh... You work on the fine details in your sleep. You have heard of the phrase, "Let me sleep on it"?

When I build, I waste no time solving problems, If I come across a problem I use the following process:-
1 Make an executive decision
2 Solve it while doing some other mundane task like painting
3 A harder but more pressing problem I use sketchup to help
4. Finally think about the problem as I fall asleep and wake up with the answer.
5. A couple of hard problems took several nights.

No build time lost.

wilno45 · « **Reply #146 on:** February 13, 2010, 07:19:58 am »

nah, didn't work mate. Had dream about Katherine Heigl instead, so all is not lost...

wilno45 · « **Reply #147 on:** February 13, 2010, 05:00:26 pm »

Have gone for a fairly standard six button layout and hopefully placed it so I can rest my hand
comfortably.

Acrylic bit arrived from Germany today and is dead easy to use, no cracks at all. The hardest bit is drilling
through at 90 degrees.

Used a 10.4mm countersink and test fitted the M5 machine screws.

Wish I had a drill press, I'll see if I can borrow one from someone.

Cheers

drventure · « **Reply #148 on:** February 13, 2010, 06:58:14 pm »

Nice. I don't think I've ever seen a plex CP before. That'll be very unique if you pull it off.

wilno45 · « **Reply #149 on:** February 15, 2010, 04:22:32 pm »

Had a go at routing today and it went pretty well (thanks again javeryh).

Top bit almost cut to size, one cut to go but I was making too much noise and had to stop.

Really pleased with how the round over bit worked.

Finger prints dust... I know, I know....

Cheers

javeryh · « **Reply #150 on:** February 15, 2010, 04:36:23 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on February 15, 2010, 04:22:32 pm

Had a go at routing today and it went pretty well (thanks again javeryh).

Sick dude. Just sick. Are you going to polish the edges of the plexi glass? If you use 600, 800, 1000 and then 1500 sandpaper and then use the Novus 3-step polish you can blend the edges into the top for a really nice finish. mountain does this whenever he uses plexiglass (I've copied his method) and the results are stunning.

Glad to help by the way!

wilno45 · « **Reply #151 on:** February 15, 2010, 04:53:27 pm »

Thanks, you were right - it really does cut it like butter this way. 95% preparation, clamping etc. the routing
itself is over before you know its begun.

I have 300, 600 and 1200 grit paper and have been considering polish along with the flame method, so not
sure yet.

Cheers

javeryh · « **Reply #152 on:** February 15, 2010, 05:01:10 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on February 15, 2010, 04:53:27 pm

Thanks, you were right - it really does cut it like butter this way. 95% preparation, clamping etc. the routing
itself is over before you know its begun.

yeah - too bad that's the most fun part!

wilno45 · « **Reply #153 on:** February 16, 2010, 09:38:45 am »

Small update while I have a cup of tea.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #154 on:** February 16, 2010, 10:50:10 am »

One down one to go.......

saleem · « **Reply #155 on:** February 16, 2010, 10:50:40 am »

so your plexi is going to go ontop of your mdf?

is that hole for the trackball bigger or have you got the trim bezel that fits onto it for round the edges?

i got an all in one monitor bezel cp and i cut the plexiglass all one piece and i wanted to fit a trackball also so i am following your cp progress,so you will have to forgive me in advance if i ask you questions.i found routing the plexi real easy,it was like it was not there bar all the plastic bits that stick to everything like static electricity.

wilno45 · « **Reply #156 on:** February 16, 2010, 10:59:50 am »

Hi Saleem,

Another bit of plexi will go underneath not mdf and I've got the trim bezel for the trackball.

Yep, I am now a router convert. Strange how noone on this forum says how good they are?

drventure · « **Reply #157 on:** February 16, 2010, 01:47:46 pm »

I see a small fortune in fancy case-mod wirewrapping stuff and cable ties in your future

Very nice panel!

wilno45 · « **Reply #158 on:** February 16, 2010, 02:15:38 pm »

Thanks Drventure, I love doing all the wiring stuff etc. sad I know....

drventure · « **Reply #159 on:** February 16, 2010, 03:25:34 pm »

Hehe. Not sad at all. I just spend the better part of two weekends working on what has got to be the oddest cord cover in the history of arcade builds, so spending time on the "internal stuff" is very cool by me.

Plus, in your case, everyone will be able to see it. not really all that "internal".

wilno45 · « **Reply #160 on:** February 16, 2010, 04:36:03 pm »

Saleem btw - If you are going to use the U-track on your panel I would recommend the bezel as the housing
that you cut a hole for is wider at the base. You don't want a gap at the top I am sure and you sure as hell
don't want to have to file it all down. Don't know about the Happ one.

Nearly forgot the 1/2 player start buttons!

Cheers

PS. You are on page 2 drventure, we are going to need some progress pics!

wilno45 · « **Reply #161 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:10:55 pm »

Guess who forgot to set the depth properly on the flush trim bit and had to redo a panel.

Not the end of the world but damn, I was upset at myself. I was rushing and it's my own fault.

Had an hour or two this evening and knocked another one up.

Broke my forstner bit as well when I dropped it. Just need to route out the top panel buttons to 29mm.

I also knocked my sandwich on the floor, that's three so I hope it's over now!

kop · « **Reply #162 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:52:25 pm »

I love the idea of a clear CP.

This should look awesome when done.

wilno45 · « **Reply #163 on:** February 18, 2010, 04:29:00 am »

Thanks kop,

About March 2015 at this rate...

wilno45 · « **Reply #164 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:33:14 pm »

Just the 6mm holes to drill now, I am going to have to find someone with a drill press
though.

Needs cleaning up of course and there are some tiny scratches but hopefully I can polish them out with
not too much bother.

cont...

wilno45 · « **Reply #165 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:35:21 pm »

Couldn't resist a test fit.

Room looks better now too, garage is freezing and under an inch of plastic shavings.

Cheers

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #166 on:** February 20, 2010, 09:53:34 am »

Needs more cowbell.

wilno45 · « **Reply #167 on:** February 22, 2010, 04:31:32 pm »

Was going too well and the inevitable happened. Found an engineering comp. up the road who drilled the holes for me
but one of the must have had a hairline crack in it that I couldn't see. Just lining up the panels to screw in the trackball
when......

Bugger

emphatic · « **Reply #168 on:** February 22, 2010, 04:42:06 pm »

Damn shame.

javeryh · « **Reply #169 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:01:57 pm »

Ouch. That sucks.

wilno45 · « **Reply #170 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:57:29 pm »

Yeah, very annoying but it's only a setback I suppose.

I still have one more piece left so will
give it another go and try drilling myself this time. The top piece is ok still and I can use the
bottom pice as a template and I can mark where the holes are for the new ~~victim~~ piece.

Drilling 8mm is ok with the bit I have got however - 16mm without a drill press and cooling doesn't
give good results. Maybe I should have done it in a two step process to begin with.

Also cutting two different button hole sizes was a bit of a waste of time. When
the buttons are on you can't tell the difference any how!

Cheers

Epyx · « **Reply #171 on:** February 22, 2010, 06:18:32 pm »

Aye bad break

I recommend creating a wood template and placing this over top of the plexi with a solid piece of MDF/Wood underneath so it is sandwiched. Then drill through the center of the holes with a small 1/2" forstner bit...then just using your router's flush trim bit to trim it flush with the template in careful passes.

javeryh · « **Reply #172 on:** February 22, 2010, 07:03:43 pm »

Quote from: wilno45 on February 22, 2010, 05:57:29 pm

Yeah, very annoying but it's only a setback I suppose. I still have one more piece left so will
give it another go and try drilling myself this time. The top piece is ok still and I can use the
bottom pice as a template and I can mark where the holes are for the new ~~victim~~ piece.

Drilling 8mm is ok with the bit I have got however - 16mm without a drill press and cooling doesn't
give good results. Maybe I should have done it in a two step process to begin with.

Also cutting two different button hole sizes was a bit of a waste of time. When
the buttons are on you can't tell the difference any how!

Cheers

Are you using a regular drill bit to make these small holes? If so, that is the reason the plexi is cracking! The tip of the bit is what matters - I'm not sure of the technical term but all I know from experience is that regular drill bits crack plexi more often than not. Using a (double fluted?) step drill bit gets me fantastic results every time! I think ordinary drill bits are single fluted - look at the differences in the tips!

I hope this helps and hopefully someone with a little more knowledge (regarding the name of these bits) will chime in but I'd hate to see you try again and crack another sheet of plexi! It's all about the right tool for the job!

wilno45 · « **Reply #173 on:** February 23, 2010, 02:07:00 am »

Thanks for the advice guy's but the bit I have got should be ok as it's designed for acrylic.

I drove to a wood working shop up the road to see if they had a drill press which they
didn't to be directed to a local engineering company who did. Lady behind the desk
said I couldn't use the drill press because of health and safety but they could do it for
me for a small charge.

Epyx - I am going to use the bottom piece that's broken as a template as its a perfect
match to what I need, minus the crack of course!

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #174 on:** February 23, 2010, 07:54:53 am »

Well the top panel has small cracks now so it's pretty much done for too. Thats just from gently screwing
in the bolts so you can imagine what a two player game of SF2 would do to it.

Option 1 - Stay with the plastic but try 15mm of Lexan with 2mm acrylic on top.

Option 2 - Pippy oak, found a place that sells beautiful stuff. Either a thin layer of acrylic on top or non at all.

Both would cost about the same @£25.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #175 on:** February 23, 2010, 08:42:08 am »

You gotta do the clear CP. I've seen one done before... and it looked HOT!

drventure · « **Reply #176 on:** February 23, 2010, 08:58:42 am »

Boy, if you can pull it off, that'll look fantastic. But dang that stuff looks tricky to work with.

wilno45 · « **Reply #177 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:33:42 am »

I did like how it turned out until ....

Never worked with polycarbonate/Lexan. I believe it scratches more easily but if it's less prone to
cracking and bullet proof in some cases - it might be worth it?

Gamester · « **Reply #178 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:23:47 pm »

Maybe do polycarbonate with a thin sheet of plexi on top for scratch resistance?

If you did it that way, you could even experiment with sandwiching some sort of translucent artwork in between...

Would make it more difficult to achieve a nice finished edge though, I suppose.

Just brainstorming.

Epyx · « **Reply #179 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:49:48 pm »

Quote

If you did it that way, you could even experiment with sandwiching some sort of translucent artwork in between...

That would be awesome...some type of non-intrusive etching for example.

wilno45 · « **Reply #180 on:** February 23, 2010, 02:36:58 pm »

Thanks guys

Lexan sample pack is in the post.......

RobbyMac · « **Reply #181 on:** February 23, 2010, 02:48:16 pm »

There is a vinyl product (adhesive backed) called etchmark. It simulates etched glass. The idea being, you cut out whatever letters, logos, shapes you want and stick it onto glass (or plex) to give the glass an etched appearance.

This vinyl is 2 mil. thick, so it will create a thin airspace between the two panels.

Alternatively, you get get a reverse cut decal (mask) and sandblast one of the panels instead. I'd say sand it, but it may be difficult to get a crisp edge up against the mask with sandpaper alone. THis effect might get you an edge lighting affect that could be good or bad depending on what you are aiming for. However, without even lighting all around the panel, it might be 'sporatic' rather than evenly lit.

wilno45 · « **Reply #182 on:** February 24, 2010, 09:15:42 am »

Etching has long been in the back of my mind during this project. I have a little Dremmel engraver and a few
ideas for the future.

For the time being though I am going to "test" the poly samples when they turn up with drilling and how they hold up with csk hex screws
in them etc. - make sure they are not going to crack so easily.

I spent ages researching how to polish the edges of the acrylic but the funny thing is once I had routed them
out for real and given them a light sanding the machined look really grew on me. I think Lexan has a dark edge
to it which might look really good too.

Thanks for all the input, won't get a chance to do anything till next week now.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #183 on:** March 01, 2010, 03:51:44 pm »

I know this is not new news or anything but Lexan is a piece of pish to drill compared to acrylic.

The picture shows a 12mm thick piece that I got in a sample pack the other day. Was like drilling
through a bit of hardwood although I did use the acrylic bit I had.

I think a solid 15mm piece could look really nice with a rounded over edge, would just need to polish out
any scratches every once in a while.

Cheers

wilno45 · « **Reply #184 on:** March 09, 2010, 10:37:49 am »

Whilst I wait for the plastic to turn up I decided it's time to mount the monitor at last.

The little one now crawls at a frightening pace towards anything remotley dangerous
so I needed to get it out of harms way.

First I had to route out a couple of mm on either side so it would fit.

Quick sand and coat of oil....... lay it on it's back and hope it all fits!

Doesn't stick out at the back.

Was worried it might.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #185 on:** March 09, 2010, 10:39:36 am »

wilno45 · « **Reply #186 on:** March 09, 2010, 10:40:47 am »

Got to get the height right now and screw it on.

Cheers

javeryh · « **Reply #187 on:** March 09, 2010, 03:54:13 pm »

Wow - looks great. You are really good with the woodworking. Too bad you have to cover the monitor - this cab would look really cool if you left it totally open!

wilno45 · « **Reply #188 on:** March 09, 2010, 07:00:48 pm »

Thanks, just learning as I go and taking ~~forever~~ my time really,

Routing wood is actually a bit harder than plexi I discovered because of the wood grain - got away with
it though (just). I can't use my wood inserts/now epic collection of machine screws to hold the monitor down
as there is not enough clearance between the holes in the metal frame and the edge of the wood - even
though It's an almost a perfect fit width wise.

Night all

painterinfo · « **Reply #189 on:** March 10, 2010, 07:59:59 am »

That monitor in there looks great, can't you just put some big fat washers on the other side of the wood. That way it would not matter if the holes are too close to the edge, if monitor can't move sideways then the holes could even be slots in the wood?

drventure · « **Reply #190 on:** March 10, 2010, 08:48:36 am »

Very nice! This continues to be a very interesting build.

wilno45 · « **Reply #191 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:57:10 pm »

Good point painterinfo, the monitor sits quite nicely where it is under gravity. It won't need much to
hold it in place to stop it slipping down. The picture of it lying down makes it look a lot cleaner than
it is in real life - I need to get one of those compressed air cans and give it a blast.

If I get a chance to do anything tonight I'll take a couple of pics.

Thanks everyone.

wilno45 · « **Reply #192 on:** March 10, 2010, 03:22:49 pm »

Added the bottom "support" nearly forgot about it, almost couldn't find the wood glue after all this time.

Still like doing this....adding the dowels - sad I know.

All in all I am pleased how the monitor looks framed at last.

Cheers

ammitz · « **Reply #193 on:** March 10, 2010, 04:11:17 pm »

Amazing

saurian333 · « **Reply #194 on:** March 11, 2010, 06:53:46 pm »

Been away from the forums for a while; no time to browse at work anymore.

:

Looking very sharp. I can't wait to see that CP done. I finished wiring mine recently, and it looks like crap, so it'll be interesting to see one wired nicely enough to be visible!

JZSlenker · « **Reply #195 on:** March 12, 2010, 03:45:30 pm »

Wow, this is such a cool project. I love wood working so being able to see the structure of this thing is great. Do you plan to light the interior or use any cool wiring (colors etc)?

wilno45 · « **Reply #196 on:** March 12, 2010, 04:07:26 pm »

I will definately add some form of lighting inside and probably light the trackball aswell.
Not sure on cable wrap yet etc. - I still need to buy an i-pac and another joystick too.

The plastic I have ordered will be enough for the CP, CP front, CP back (to help support the top),
marquee and the top (I'll put some 120mm fans on).

I want to use car speakers - I think they will suit this project more than PC ones. I would like to
mount one of these somewhere too.

Thanks for all the kind words...

Cheers

JZSlenker · « **Reply #197 on:** March 12, 2010, 05:53:20 pm »

I have the Lepai amp in my cab and it works great. The volume knob lights up blue - FYI

wilno45 · « **Reply #198 on:** March 12, 2010, 07:00:03 pm »

Thanks JZSlenker

I've never mucked around with car speakers before - glad I am on the right track.

wilno45 · « **Reply #199 on:** March 16, 2010, 11:36:33 am »

Got the CP done at last (almost) and screwed down.

Was going to hinge it but will do that to the bottom panel instead.

Cheers


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