Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
I still go BERZERK !
SirPeale:
What do you guys use instead?
Level42:
Here's a table of our common TL sizes today (all metric lengths):
TL 4W 136 mm
TL 6W 212 mm
TL 8W 288 mm
TL 13W 517 mm
TLD 15W 437 mm
TLD 18W 590 mm
TLD 23W 970 mm
TLD 30W 895 mm
TLD 36W 1200 mm
TLD 38W 1047 mm
TLD 58W 1500 mm
TL5 14W 549 mm
TL5 21W 849 mm
TL5 24W 549 mm
TL5 28W 1149 mm
TL5 35W 1449 mm
TL5 39W 849 mm
TL5 49W 1449 mm
TL5 54W 1149 mm
TL5 80W 1449 mm
The TLD are T8 sized. T12 is completely non existent anymore. TL5 are very thin tubes and can only be used with electronic ballasts.
Now, if you look at the same wattage (about) of the current tube in the Berzerk, you'd get the TLD15 Watt with a length of 437 mm. That's 17.2"
So this is a lot longer than the original tube.
The 18 Watt is a lot more common though, and is even longer with 590mm. (23.2")
That's also the reason why I often replace the original tube and space out the holders a bit wider to accommodate Euro-sized tubes. But that only works if there is wood throughout the entire marquee area, and with Berzerk that is not the case. There are 2 supports that "hold up" a wood panel that is just long enough for the (original) tube. I didn't want to change this all too much.
But as mentioned, I was able to order the correct size.
Level42:
Restoring the top gliding rail (as good as possible):
Fully extended:
There are 3 sliding parts. There are runners inside. Rust dirt and grease that became dirty all around.
Very hard to get 100% good. It's as good as impossible to disassemble it.
So I did what I could, sanding, removing dirt, and removed all the dust from the sanding with water as good as possible. Hot air to blow everything dry and then some silicon-spray all over the place.
Back in the cab:
Naturally sanded and painted the bolts back to black, also those from the speaker and the speaker grill:
Cleaned the entire inside plus wiring harness,cleaned monitor as good as possible without soaking it and removing it....I lack the tools to get it out (stupid imperial sized stuff ! :banghead: :D).
Re-installed the drawer board, looking nice and fresh (except the PS board, that's Superully's, for testing and adjusting):
The silicon-spray makes it run baby-skin smooth again :D (Quite a contrast with the first time I pulled it out !!!
It's also funny now to realize how simple it is to "unlock" the drawer-board. Just 1 screw. First time (Muerto, Superully and I) were puzzling to see how it was supposed to come loose but we didn't figure it out ! :D
So the inside it done, except for the speaker and fluorescent lighting (waiting for the tubes to arrive).
Removing the coin door will be next.
Level42:
--- Quote from: SirPeale on December 29, 2009, 12:59:35 pm ---That FS-4 starter isn't the right one - replace it with an FS-2 when you replace that T12 for a T8. It should (I think) fit in the original fixture. An F15-T8 is the current industry standard, and has been for 25 years.
--- End quote ---
SirPeale was right !
I replaced the tube with one of the new one's I received from RS online (GREAT, coming from the US and NO shipping costs) but sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't.
Bought two brand new Philips "Green" S2 starters that are tailored for this length and wattages of tubes (4-22W, single & series for 220/240VAC, Single only for 110/130VAC.)
These are also supposed to extend tube life by 25% (which makes it probably like I will never have to replace it again ;)).
Also, it's lead-free AND "No Radioactivity".......huh ? What the f does that mean ? Are the old one's Radioactive ? And if so WHY is that not printed on them !?!?!
Weird.
But the weirdest thing is that the starters have "Made in Holland" on them ! I almost got a tear in my eye. Here I have a product from a company that is actually still manufactured in the original company's country !
I was totally amazed ! This factory must have been out of the eye of the management obviously as almost ALL factories have been moved away from here....(IF they still have "own" factories yet....).
Anyway, TL tube working fine again now !
[Edit] These little simple starters have more to them then we might think. Here's a press release by Philips about these green starters:
http://www.lighting.philips.com/gl_en/news/press/sector/2005/green_starter.php?main=global&parent=4390&id=gl_en_news&lang=en
Level42:
OK about time to some more updating:
Here's my way of restoring the back-up battery on the Berzerk ZPU board. I've installed it on 3 boards so far and all have been working fine for between 1 and 3 weeks.
The idea was not mine, I first learned about it from Bob Roberts' site.
Also the suggestion to use the schottky diode instead of a regular one comes from Mark Spaeth. If, instead of doing this mod you would prefer a very comfy way to reach the same goal, you could try to get one of his NVRAM boards for your ZPU board, or even better, his ZZPU board, but both are simply unavailable at this moment (or maybe you have better luck than I).
What you need:
1) A CR2032 Lithium NON rechargeable battery, buy a brand and not some cheap (Chinese) offer, we DON'T want any more leaks. I used Panasonic (RS online part 457-4757)
2) A holder that fits the CR2032 size: 20 mm. (RS part 430-675)
3) A 1N5817 schottky diode (RS part 625-4972)
4) tools, soldering station, solder,small drill !, DVM
Bob Roberts also sells a set he calls Tron Lithium Battery Conversion Kit for $4.00 that is suitable for this mod too. I'm not sure if Bob sells a schottky or a regular diode in that kit though....
A) First find R29 on the board. It's very close to the + terminal of the original battery. Desolder that resistor and remove it from the board (On boards with acid damage this can be tricky, add a bit of new solder to get the old solder flowing. If that doesn't help some flux may be helpful (in this case, normally do not use it for electronics).
You don't need the resistor anymore.
B) In the position of R29 solder in the 1N5817 diode.
MAKE SURE THAT THE CATHODE (THE WHITE LINE ON THE BODY OF THE DIODE) IS AWAY FROM THE PLUS TERMINAL. So the cathode is soldered near the R29 marking. See the picture:
The diode is installed to BLOCK the charging voltage (about 5 volts) that normally charged the original battery. Since we are using a non-chargeable battery it is ESSENTIAL that this charging voltage does not reach the battery. If you put the diode in the wrong way this voltage WILL reach the battery and will try to charge it with probably some devastating results !
On some boards I experienced the traces between the + terminal (hole) and R29 were eaten or broken. It's easy with the length of the diode leg to bridge that gap. So, solder it to the + terminal directly in that case.
C) Lay the board flat and put the holder on the board. Put the + terminal of the holder in the hole of the + terminal on the board. This is to "measure" your holders distance between it's soldering pins, but usually it's the same for the various brands.
Now, looking sideways you can see where you will need to drill a tiny hole through the PCB:
I've used two brands of holder and the distance of the pins was the same. When you turn over the PCB, you can see that Stern (in it's wisdom) has put a "raster" of ground area right under the original battery area. This is very useful for us now.
If you look at the "raster" and count the "holes", the hole has to be drilled in the 4th "hole" from the + terminal (the + terminal is on the right in this picture) on the top line:
Drill a hole that is a little bit larger than the "hole" in the raster. This is to make sure we hit a contact area of the ground "raster".
Scrape away a bit of the protective layer around the hole so the copper becomes clear.
Now pre-tin this area and the + terminal. ALSO pre-tin the pins of the holder.
Insert the holder and solder the pins. Push the holder sideways to the left so it's fixed against the edges of both holes (the wide + hole gives you plenty of "room" to play with.
Now solder the pins to the edges. Let the solder flow and do it's work, don't smear !
This should be (about" the result (poor picture quality,sorry):
Flip over the board and there's your holder tight and snug against the board.
Insert the battery. DO NOT TOUCH IT WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS. Use a bit of paper or plastic or if you want a rubber glove, but make sure there is no fingerprint on either side when you insert it. Our skin carry it's own acid which is not good for the contact between battery and holder.
Time to check your work !
Get out your DVM, switch to voltage, DC (duh!) and measure between GND and pin 18 of the RAM chip at position 1E.
You should get a reading like this:
If so, it's working OK. If not there could be a trace break on your board. Check that with your DVM and check the solderings you made on the battery holder.
The reason why we used a schottky diode is that it has very little loss of voltage when it's in conducting situation. Here's the voltage measured directly at the battery (while installed):
As you can see hardly any difference. Initially I tried a regular diode but this dropped the voltage to about 2,75 Volt. Still plenty for the RAM. The specs of the RAM say it requires 2V minimum to keep the RAM data. You will never reach that voltage with the lithium battery unless it's REALLY old. Lithium cells hardly ever leak, but I still suggest to check every now and then, you never know.
Put a date somewhere on (or near) the board to remember when you installed the new battery.
Now re-install the ZPU board in your machine. To be 100% sure you installed it properly, you can check the voltages on both sides of the diode (to GND) to see you succesfully blocked the charging voltage. The cathode should read about 5 Volts, the other side about 3.1V.
This completes the hardware work. But you're not finished just yet....
Now the hardware part is done. There's still somethin
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