Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Ms Pacman Cocktail
StuDaBaker:
--- Quote from: RayB on November 05, 2009, 10:31:47 am ---(here we go again)
Monitor gets AC power from the big block thing called an isolation transformer, not the power supply. The power supply converts AC to DC to power the game board.
Post more photos. ;)
--- End quote ---
Hopefully, I'll have some time this evening to get some tools on this tonight, and I'll definitely be posting some more pictures when I do.
StuDaBaker:
I've moved this machine from my garage at home to work because every time I'd go out to work on it, I'd get interrupted by my wife or kids and wouldn't seem to get anywhere with it. So now that I have it at my shop, and business has been slow anyway, I've done a little tinkering and a lot of reading on it. On to the pictures.
A shot of the underside of the cabinet, it's sitting on the dolly still, so the bottom is partially obscured by that, but overall looks good there.
And here's a closer shot of that damaged corner:
I put a couple of bulbs in the coin door, and they work.
With it opened you can see pretty much everything that seems to be working at this point, with the exception of the fan in the bottom of the cab.
A pic of the pcb connector:
I'm not even sure if this is on correctly or backwards, I couldn't find a good enough picture online that I could compare, seems there was a decal on the connector at one time, but obviously that's long gone. I've considered purchasing the deluxe pac wire harness from Bob Roberts, but I guess that requires a switcher.
It's got the "suitcase" power distribution assembly, here it is in the cab with the sheild removed.
And after it's been pulled from the cab:
Underneath the pda:
I know the Isolation transformer is in the lower right with the decal on the bottom of it, but the block to the left of that (not sure what it's called) seems like it had leaked something at some time or another. The wires to the left of the grommet are very stiff and seemed to have absorbed whatever came out of there, while they are still pretty clean and flexible on the opposite side of the grommet. I found a picture here http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=42663. It's from a Domino Man cocktail, and seems identical to what I have, but with less "leakage".
I've tested the fuses for continuity and they all check out. I don't know enough to know how to check the other components here, or even if the multimeter I have is able to correctly do so. Is it even worth trying to get this power distribution assembly functioning correctly (assuming it's not) or should I look into installing a switcher and a new shielded isolation transformer?
I'm guessing this is what I need to concentrate on at this time, making sure everything is getting power. Pardon my ignorance. Redirection, suggestions and comments are welcomed as usual. Thanks in advance for any guidance.
RayB:
Can you summarize what you do know? What makes you think the power block is faulty? When you had previously powered it on and say it made no sounds, are you sure you properly coined up and hit Start first? Is the speaker hooked up?
The first step is measuring voltages with it all assembled. You measure the voltages at the board (im not sure what Ms Pac's require, so I won't throw numbers out).
You should also, disconnect power to the monitor and measure the AC going to that power connector. If you see 110v AC then the monitor is getting the right power.
StuDaBaker:
I dropped the suitcase back in the cab and reconnected everything. I checked to make sure the speaker is connected, and reconnected the pcb as it was connected when I got it, although I'm not sure it's oriented correctly. I unplugged the connector for the monitor power and verified that it was receiving power, and upon closer inspection there was a connector that was not fully seated on a pin header on the monitor board, and after pushing that down and powering up, I did get a blank screen on the monitor. I tried hitting both coin lever switches and credit button inside the coin door, and pressing 1 and 2 player start buttons and no sounds or change in display. There is a vibration switch on the coin door, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. I'll search and see if I can find something on checking voltages on the board.
channelmaniac:
First, unplug the harness from the board. Look at the edge of the board. Are the connectors shiny or are they burnt? Burnt connectors = poor voltage to the board. It's a common problem. Use copper tape to redo the edge connector and replace the connector on the harness if that's the case.
Next, measure the AC voltage on the back side of the harness edge connector that plugs into the game board. If it's missing then check fuses and the transformer. If it's there then check at the diodes on the board to see if you have the AC voltage going into them. If you do then you have a board problem. Download the troubleshooting guide and start looking for the power supply problem.
RJ
PS: The cab supplies AC voltage to the Pac board. The board has its own power supply onboard.
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