Ms Pacman Cocktail

[StuDaBaker]

Well, since I've been bitten by this bug, I came across an ad for a Ms Pacman working arcade game for a ridiculously low price. Without too much optimism I decided to give the guy a call. He said it was still available and that another guy was supposed to come look at it and already offered him double for it (I wondered why someone would offer a seller twice as much for an item than what they were asking, but I digress). Long story shortened after a couple days trying to get with this guy to check it out I finally got directions to his place and met up with him last week. He plugged it in and the control panel lights came on but no display or sound. I pretended to fiddle with it while he talked with his roommates for a few minutes and then told him that I didn't have time to sit and figure out what was wrong with it, but I'd give him $5.00 more than what he was originally asking for it and they loaded it in my truck. This is what I got for my $ and some phone calls.


As you can see, it's got some pretty serious burn on the monitor.
The glass is scratched but not really as bad as it seems in the pic. If this thing is salvageable I'm sure I'd replace it.


That lower right corner is the worst spot on the cab.
Hmm. Corner protectors or remove wood grain laminate, repair and re laminate?


Internals of the coin mechs seem to be pretty much intact. No keys, of course.


Top down view into the cabinet. Actually wasn't as bad as I expected. Maybe I'll retract that statement after I get those shields off.


Ok, now we see why there was no display at all. This is what worries me a bit. Need to buy or build a discharge tool before I attempt to plug that back in. I'm not hopeful of the monitor working, but you never know I guess.

Time will tell if I can turn this turd into a tiara, any suggestions are welcome. I'm a still a noob at this stuff so I could use any suggestions. My dream for this is to ultimately turn it into a multi-pac, though those seem tough to find these days and not sure what a fair price for one of those kits are.

[dafelandry]

A friend of mine sent me this link.... http://home.everestkc.net/mdoyle/multipac.htm some guy selling a 96 in 1 multipac..... dont know about how legit or good it is (could be dead)

or you could always hit up lizard lick http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/boards.shtml and get the 24 in 1 iv heard good things about that!

as for the monitor im a noob as well my scramble formation monitor was DOA.... so swapped it for an LCD for a mame cabinet...

[opt2not]

That's a nice cabinet to restore. Other than the monitor issue, it's probably in better condition than what my Canucks cocktail was at.

If you're going to repair and re-laminate it, you'll probably have to do the same to all the sides, if you want to retain the same wood colour. I'm sure over time the laminate faded a bit. A new application of wood grain laminate might not match what's there.  Or you can go through the route I took and removed the laminate to give it a new painted finish. I personally am not a fan of wood grain looking cabinets...

How are the joysticks?  Have you taken apart the CP's yet?  It'd be great if you can salvage the originals.

As for the monitor, perhaps it's just the tube that's trash-able, the chassis might be salvageable. I'll be watching your progress, good luck!

[opt2not]

I just pulled off my last piece of Laminate from the swiveling monitor-mount part of the cocktail cabinet. I was going to throw it out, but you wanted to do a less labour and cheaper attempt at restoring the original Laminate, it's yours if you want it. It's a 16" x 21" piece that I managed to keep roughly all intact while peeling it off. It should be enough for you to play with.

It should be an exact match since my cabinet is also a midway cocktail, but the grain might be tricky to line up.

I was thinking you can cut away the laminate and make a clean line, fill in the damaged parts with wood filler, the let it dry and sand it into shape. You can then cut the exact shape of the laminate out of the material i have and contact cement it back in place.


Removing the laminate is easy, just heat it up with an iron or heat gun, wedge a putty knife or paint scraper under it and peel it back.
Getting corner protectors would probably be easier, but if you want to retain the original look, this route might be good enough if done right. Let me know.

[StuDaBaker]

dafelandry, thanks for the links, and even though it's a little more and roughly 1/4 the options, the 24 in 1 appeals to me more. Tempts me to order one to put in a drawer until I'm ready for it.

opt2not, the joysticks seem to be in good shape, but I haven't had the opportunity to go over them. They look to be original. When I get in to them I'll post some pictures, but at first impression they seem salvageable. The overlay on the opposite side of the above pic is totally gone and I'll be ordering a set soon. Once I get that I'll be itching to take them apart, if I hadn't already.

Thanks for the offer of your laminate refuse. I hadn't really considered doing that. I'm sure it would be very tough to match up the lines in the grain, but if the cut piece fits tight, I'd probably be the only one to notice. If you could, please hang on to it for me a little while until I get the t-molding off to assess the rest of the cabinet. I'll let you know either way. Thanks again.

Nice canuck canabanet BTW! That's going to be sweeeeeet when finished. Probably doesn't mean much to you coming from a Chicago Blackhawks (my family from Chi) and Tampa Bay Lightning fan. There are a few hockey fans living in Florida!

[opt2not]

No problem, I'll hang onto it for you!
Thanks for the compliment also, so far my cocktail is turning out well, I'm hoping I can get it done in the next few weeks! *fingers crossed*

[Spyridon]

That is definitely some serious screen burn, but overall, the cocktail seems to be in pretty good shape.  Should clean up nicely.  I'd love to pickup a Midway cocktail, but I haven't seen any around for a decent price yet.

[RayB]

Um, you don't need to discharge a tube that's had no power going into it. Just connect the annode back onto it. You see the 2 prongs sticking out beneath the cup? They both need to fit inside the round hole (they stick inside on each side, under the edge of the hold, holding the whole thing in.)

Then power up and cross your fingers.  Chances are those that power up with it detached will have caused arcing to other parts, damaging them.

[StuDaBaker]

Well, took a few minutes and fiddled with this, re-attached the anode cap (made sure both prongs were inserted into the hole) plugged it in and .... nada. Seems the monitor isn't getting any power. No glow, hum, sparks, fire or smoke. The only thing that happens is the control panel backlights come on and what sounds like a fan in the bottom of the cabinet. Guess I'll be checking the power supply next.

[RayB]

(here we go again)

Monitor gets AC power from the big block thing called an isolation transformer, not the power supply. The power supply converts AC to DC to power the game board.

Post more photos. 

[StuDaBaker]

(here we go again)

Monitor gets AC power from the big block thing called an isolation transformer, not the power supply. The power supply converts AC to DC to power the game board.

Post more photos. 

Hopefully, I'll have some time this evening to get some tools on this tonight, and I'll definitely be posting some more pictures when I do.

[StuDaBaker]

I've moved this machine from my garage at home to work because every time I'd go out to work on it, I'd get interrupted by my wife or kids and wouldn't seem to get anywhere with it. So now that I have it at my shop, and business has been slow anyway, I've done a little tinkering and a lot of reading on it. On to the pictures.

A shot of the underside of the cabinet, it's sitting on the dolly still, so the bottom is partially obscured by that, but overall looks good there.



And here's a closer shot of that damaged corner:



I put a couple of bulbs in the coin door, and they work.



With it opened you can see pretty much everything that seems to be working at this point, with the exception of the fan in the bottom of the cab.


A pic of the pcb connector:

I'm not even sure if this is on correctly or backwards, I couldn't find a good enough picture online that I could compare, seems there was a decal on the connector at one time, but obviously that's long gone. I've considered purchasing the deluxe pac wire harness from Bob Roberts, but I guess that requires a switcher.

It's got the "suitcase" power distribution assembly, here it is in the cab with the sheild removed.


And after it's been pulled from the cab:


Underneath the pda:

I know the Isolation transformer is in the lower right with the decal on the bottom of it, but the block to the left of that (not sure what it's called) seems like it had leaked something at some time or another. The wires to the left of the grommet are very stiff and seemed to have absorbed whatever came out of there, while they are still pretty clean and flexible on the opposite side of the grommet. I found a picture here http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=42663. It's from a Domino Man cocktail, and seems identical to what I have, but with less "leakage".

I've tested the fuses for continuity and they all check out. I don't know enough to know how to check the other components here, or even if the multimeter I have is able to correctly do so. Is it even worth trying to get this power distribution assembly functioning correctly (assuming it's not) or should I look into installing a switcher and a new shielded isolation transformer?

I'm guessing this is what I need to concentrate on at this time, making sure everything is getting power. Pardon my ignorance.  Redirection, suggestions and comments are welcomed as usual. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

[RayB]

Can you summarize what you do know? What makes you think the power block is faulty? When you had previously powered it on and say it made no sounds, are you sure you properly coined up and hit Start first? Is the speaker hooked up?

The first step is measuring voltages with it all assembled. You measure the voltages at the board (im not sure what Ms Pac's require, so I won't throw numbers out).

You should also, disconnect power to the monitor and measure the AC going to that power connector. If you see 110v AC then the monitor is getting the right power.

[StuDaBaker]

I dropped the suitcase back in the cab and reconnected everything. I checked to make sure the speaker is connected, and reconnected the pcb as it was connected when I got it, although I'm not sure it's oriented correctly. I unplugged the connector for the monitor power and verified that it was receiving power, and upon closer inspection there was a connector that was not fully seated on a pin header on the monitor board, and after pushing that down and powering up, I did get a blank screen on the monitor. I tried hitting both coin lever switches and credit button inside the coin door, and pressing 1 and 2 player start buttons and no sounds or change in display. There is a vibration switch on the coin door, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. I'll search and see if I can find something on checking voltages on the board.

[channelmaniac]

First, unplug the harness from the board. Look at the edge of the board. Are the connectors shiny or are they burnt? Burnt connectors = poor voltage to the board. It's a common problem. Use copper tape to redo the edge connector and replace the connector on the harness if that's the case.

Next, measure the AC voltage on the back side of the harness edge connector that plugs into the game board. If it's missing then check fuses and the transformer. If it's there then check at the diodes on the board to see if you have the AC voltage going into them. If you do then you have a board problem. Download the troubleshooting guide and start looking for the power supply problem.

RJ

PS: The cab supplies AC voltage to the Pac board. The board has its own power supply onboard.

[StuDaBaker]

Ok, I'm getting back to this, almost a year later. 

I've had some difficulty troubleshooting the suitcase power supply. Beyond checking the fuses, I'm not sure what else to do to it.

I haven't had any luck getting the board to do anything, and I even ordered another MS. Pac board with a multi-pac installed on it. Still nothing. Bought a used monitor off of a local guy here in town that I saw working on his test bench, hooked it up to the board I purchased and still couldn't get any signs of life, other than monitor glow and the pcb getting pretty hot.

So I've made a decision that's probably not going to be too popular with the purists. I've gutted the cab completely and purchased a 60 in 1 arcade classics jamma, board new jamma cocktail harness and just ordered a new 19" Imperial CGA CRT monitor. Since I didn't want to make any irreversible changes to the original cabinet, I've decided to shelf the original control panels and have new cocktail multicade control panels on order, also. That way, I can hopefully get this cabinet to a functional state and get it playing all the pac games I wanted out of the multipac, as well as some additional titles that I like.

The only thing that I have some reservations about is swapping the original cocktail monitor frame to the brand new monitor. I've read where ppl have swapped vertical and horizontal monitor frames without much trouble, so I'm assuming that this will be a similar operation, but just something about taking apart a brand new arcade monitor in a world where these are getting harder to come by that makes me a bit nervous.

So here's the new plan:

1. Get back to repairing the bottom right corner on the front of the cab. I'm going to try opt2not's suggestion of repairing the laminate with a piece of what he stripped off his Canuck's cab. (Thanks again).

2. Once I've received monitor and cp's then I'll bench test what I've got to make sure I've got working "guts".

3. Install everything into the cabinet, including monitor frame swap. (my goal is to have this completed by Thanksgiving)

4. Then, as time allows, I will work on the details, such as new monitor bezel, refurb or replace speaker grills, new cocktail glass, etc.

5. Also, as time allows, get back to troubleshooting original hardware on bench test: "Suitcase" power supply, original PCB (I returned the one with the multi-pac), original wiring harness (which seems to be perfectly intact), refurb original control panels. This way, if I have all working Ms. Pac parts, I can put it back in the original cab and move the 60 in 1 to another cabinet I either acquire or build. If I can't get it working, then I'll know it's more than I can do and sell off those parts to someone who can use them (with the exception of the original cp's).

I'm planning on using a pc power supply to power the 60 in 1. Does anyone have any suggestions on how they wired their cab so that the monitor and board turn on with the same switch? Thanks.

[Spyridon]

Sigh...there goes another classic.

Did you follow step one and check the voltages from your power supply?  If you don't know how to, you could have asked.

[StuDaBaker]

Sigh...there goes another classic.

Did you follow step one and check the voltages from your power supply?  If you don't know how to, you could have asked.

Spyridon, I came here to the BYOAC forums years ago researching for a still not started MAME cabinet project and have now purchased 3 original arcade machines instead, largely due to what I've read in many of your restoration threads (and others). There's no denying your work is impressive.

I mean no disrespect, to you or anyone else who use these forums, but from your reply I can gather that either you did not fully read my last post, or do not believe what I wrote. I would love for this to be a dedicated Ms. Pac ct. (see #5 in my last post). I would not be opposed to building a new cab for the jamma parts I've purchased, but if I can't get this ms. pac to work, or someone to buy a non-working game, I might as well use it. Nothing irreversible would be done to it in the process either.  But I'm not here to debate converting/restoring, so anyway.

I've tested the fuses for continuity and they all check out. I don't know enough to know how to check the other components here, or even if the multimeter I have is able to correctly do so. Is it even worth trying to get this power distribution assembly functioning correctly (assuming it's not) or should I look into installing a switcher and a new shielded isolation transformer?

I'm guessing this is what I need to concentrate on at this time, making sure everything is getting power. Pardon my ignorance.  Redirection, suggestions and comments are welcomed as usual. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

So, again. I am new to this hobby. I know more about arcade machines than anyone I know, but I'm not ashamed to admit that is squat compared to the enthusiasts on these forums. That's why I am here.

I do not know how to check voltages on this power supply. I do not know how to check voltages on a Ms. Pacman board.  I unfortunately do not have time to take a class to learn all this on my own. So I am asking for help, please.

[saleem]

whats the point in buying cabs you seem to know nothing to very little about.you dont or have not even learned to solve power supply issues and how to test them yet you went and bought more cabs.when the other cabs are not working what will happen to them ones then?

will you go and mame or shove a 60in1 into them also?

you are going and making the same mistake most of us make when we get our first cab.you will be cussing if you carry on with this hobby when you realise what to do and how to do it to get cabs running.

when it comes to power you need to know how to read schematics,grab a manual for the machine,look at the wiring diagram and the setupo for the transformer and see what wires carry whatr voltages,set the meter correctly to the setting you are checking/vac/dc whatever and probe the wire and see what the voltage is and what it should be,if the voltage is not right then correct it.

it could be something as minor as a diode or a capacitor that is not working right/shorted and needs replacing.it could be your line filter or any one number of things that is wrong.it might not even be power related and it could be a wire is broke inside the plastic that is around it.basicly it could be anything.

wish people would realise when they get into this hobby what they are getting themselves into.rather than panic and just give up.

[StuDaBaker]

Well, thanks for taking the time to reply. Very encouraging.

[opt2not]

whats the point in buying cabs you seem to know nothing to very little about.you dont or have not even learned to solve power supply issues and how to test them yet you went and bought more cabs.when the other cabs are not working what will happen to them ones then?

How is the guy supposed to learn this without help? Out of thin air?  Wow, seriously guys -- what with all the negativity? This is something I'd expect out of the other forums like Main or Everything Else, not here...

The guy is asking for help, because obviously he's excited about this hobby and is interested in learning.
Everyone's got to start somewhere, and this forum is perfect for that because normally we're pretty helpful at handing out information for people wanting to grow into this hobby.

will you go and mame or shove a 60in1 into them also?

So what if he does?  You don't even know what those other cabinets are. They could be standard dynamo cabinets in desperate need of a 60in1.
That's better than what most people (including me) are doing over in Project Announcements...at least it's dedicated arcade hardware rather than just slapping a PC in it.

when it comes to power you need to know how to read schematics,grab a manual for the machine,look at the wiring diagram and the setupo for the transformer and see what wires carry whatr voltages,set the meter correctly to the setting you are checking/vac/dc whatever and probe the wire and see what the voltage is and what it should be,if the voltage is not right then correct it.

There we go, there's some constructive information.

it could be something as minor as a diode or a capacitor that is not working right/shorted and needs replacing.it could be your line filter or any one number of things that is wrong.it might not even be power related and it could be a wire is broke inside the plastic that is around it.basicly it could be anything.

wish people would realise when they get into this hobby what they are getting themselves into.rather than panic and just give up.

Don't let comments like these discourage you, StuDaBaker.

If you wanna throw a multi-game pcb in there, I say go for it. Midway Cocktail cabinets are a dime a dozen in North America, and many of the cocktails I've seen in the wild have already gone this route.

Saleem is right though, grab a copy of the manual + schematics (you can easily google for it) and read through it and look for what leads to check.
You can also take a look at the wiring harness and see if there's any burn marks on the connections. Might need to be replaced. Also spot-check the headers on the boards that the wires connect to. If you see any burn marks, or rust or anything that doesn't look right, you might need to replace them with newer ones.
You could also install new capacitors on the PS board -- probably wise to do this anyways. Finding info on how to install a cap kit is pretty easy. There are even youtube videos out there that will help.

But your plan seems good -- start with gutting the cabinet, work on the construction restoration while looking up the hardware issues.

From what I'm reading, am I correct in assuming you're planning on swapping the monitor mount to a horizontal orientation?  Wouldn't it be better for the pacs, and dk's and galaga games that are vertical orientated to keep it that way?

I'm planning on using a pc power supply to power the 60 in 1. Does anyone have any suggestions on how they wired their cab so that the monitor and board turn on with the same switch? Thanks.

Do a forum search on Smart Strip hack or install.  People have connected a smart strip to a one button solution for powering up multiple things. This is probably your best bet.

Also, if you're finding that there isn't much constructive help here, the guys at klov might be a bit more empathetic to your needs.

[Funnel]

whats the point in buying cabs you seem to know nothing to very little about.you dont or have not even learned to solve power supply issues and how to test them yet you went and bought more cabs.when the other cabs are not working what will happen to them ones then?

will you go and mame or shove a 60in1 into them also?

you are going and making the same mistake most of us make when we get our first cab.you will be cussing if you carry on with this hobby when you realise what to do and how to do it to get cabs running.

wish people would realise when they get into this hobby what they are getting themselves into.rather than panic and just give up.

 
Dude what the hell is your problem? Seriously? We all gotta start somewhere. What, were you born with SUPREME intelligence regarding electronics and arcade cabs? NO! Nice fantasy though. Dude StuDaBaker don't listen to stuff like that. Keep on the good work and don't let comments discourage you.

[IG-88]

Also, if you're finding that there isn't much constructive help here, the guys at klov might be a bit more empathetic to your needs.

Ya, go ahead and post over on the KLOV forums that you want to Mame a MS. Pac cocktail and see the warm reception you get. These replies are quite soft compared to what you will see....

Oh and Op2not, the comment,

 "If you wanna throw a multi-game pcb in there, I say go for it. Midway Cocktail cabinets are a dime a dozen in North America, and many of the cocktails I've seen in the wild have already gone this route"


is precisely why you will see people get all fired up over hacking up a classic cab. I ruined a classic about 6-7 yrs ago and have regretted it ever since.

And by the way they're NOT a dime a dozen everywhere in North America. 

[IG-88]

Well, thanks for taking the time to reply. Very encouraging.

Have you checked over here:

http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/

Got alot of vids and the guys are always willing to help. Great place for us newbs.

[opt2not]

Also, if you're finding that there isn't much constructive help here, the guys at klov might be a bit more empathetic to your needs.

Ya, go ahead and post over on the KLOV forums that you want to Mame a MS. Pac cocktail and see the warm reception you get. These replies are quite soft compared to what you will see....

Heh, yeah, perhaps it's wise to not mention the whole converting plan. Just stick to the issue of powering it up and you should be fine

Oh and Op2not, the comment,

 "If you wanna throw a multi-game pcb in there, I say go for it. Midway Cocktail cabinets are a dime a dozen in North America, and many of the cocktails I've seen in the wild have already gone this route"


is precisely why you will see people get all fired up over hacking up a classic cab. I ruined a classic about 6-7 yrs ago and have regretted it ever since.

And by the way they're NOT a dime a dozen everywhere in North America. 

I can go and buy 2 of them in my local area right now without breaking a sweat, and I've constantly seen them listed every month within a 200mi distance from me. Take a look at ebay as well...there are a wack-load of them on there. I'm not sure where you are, but on the west coast, they are a dime a dozen.

What classic did you ruin?
Was it a midway cocktail? Or a another dedicated cabinet of some sort?

What I'm getting at is, putting a 60in1 into a Midway Cocktail is the same as putting one into a standard Dynamo cabinet. Those cabinets were meant to install kits into, as they didn't have dedicated artwork other than the bezel and CP.

For instance, if you were to mame or 60in1 a cabinet like a Burgertime, Robotron or Donkey Kong, I'd be all up in arms for sure. Those cabinet was meant for a specific game due to it's design, shape, and artwork.

[IG-88]

I'm in "flyover" country so that's why I don't see any out here  You should see some of the crap I drag home.

As far as what game I "killed"....I'm not saying, I'd get roasted alive. I will say that it was/is a grail to alot of guys around here.   

[saleem]

classic cocktails are dying due to idiots going and mame or 60in1ng them.so now the numbers of bastardised cabs is going to increase by 1 more and the classics 1 less.

here in uk they are rare,just look on ebay and see and google all the places to buy cabs,you will be lucky to see such a prize cocktail in its original state.everyone has gone and mamed or jamma'd them and mainly so they can sell them on and try to get a profit.these cabs are desirable with 60in1 to ebay wallers,they actualy sell for more in the american cabs rather than the taito ones.

[StuDaBaker]

classic cocktails are dying due to idiots going and mame or 60in1ng them.so now the numbers of bastardised cabs is going to increase by 1 more and the classics 1 less.

here in uk they are rare,just look on ebay and see and google all the places to buy cabs,you will be lucky to see such a prize cocktail in its original state.everyone has gone and mamed or jamma'd them and mainly so they can sell them on and try to get a profit.these cabs are desirable with 60in1 to ebay wallers,they actualy sell for more in the american cabs rather than the taito ones.

So, are people just missing this part?

5. Also, as time allows, get back to troubleshooting original hardware on bench test: "Suitcase" power supply, original PCB (I returned the one with the multi-pac), original wiring harness (which seems to be perfectly intact), refurb original control panels. This way, if I have all working Ms. Pac parts, I can put it back in the original cab and move the 60 in 1 to another cabinet I either acquire or build. If I can't get it working, then I'll know it's more than I can do and sell off those parts to someone who can use them (with the exception of the original cp's).

Look, I got this thing from a guy who lives 15 minutes from my house, the ad ran for over a month before I saw it and he was asking $25 bucks for it. The ad actually said "I just want this thing gone!" I'd say the chances of this thing becoming dumpster fodder if I hadn't bought it were pretty good. It was dirty, glass scratched up, metal rusted and wood damaged, and let's not forget non-functional other than as something to stack stuff on in someone's garage, because that's exactly how I found it. Not exactly a "prize cocktail" by many peoples' definition, and not "original state" by anyone's definition. Sorry you live across the pond and didn't have the chance to pick it up before I did.

I've been looking at using the 60 in 1 as a temporary solution, and hopefully can eventually either get what I have working or acquire what I need to get this working (as a dedicated Ms. Pac). That's why I plan on keeping the original cp's and restoring them. So if that's makes me an "idiot", whatever, I may not know how to read a schematic, but at least I know how to use spell check. What's the harm in using an otherwise useless cab no one else locally wanted for a next to nothing price in the meantime? Like I've said at least twice before now, nothing irreversible has, or will be done to this cabinet by me!

I didn't start this thread to open a debate about converting or preserving, I believe there are plenty of other threads in these forums for that. I started it to try to get some help. Thank you very much for the good suggestions that have been offered by those who have, they are much appreciated. If anyone is able and willing to offer more, that would be fantastic. If not, well, I'll do my best with what I've got to work with.

Now, is there anyway to keep this thread about repairing the Ms. Pac hardware? K, Thanks.

From what I'm reading, am I correct in assuming you're planning on swapping the monitor mount to a horizontal orientation?  Wouldn't it be better for the pacs, and dk's and galaga games that are vertical orientated to keep it that way?

-opt2not

No, I just got a new 19" Imperial cga crt that I would like to swap to the cocktail monitor frame. Did you use the monitor that came in what is now your Canucks Cocktail or did you use a different one?

[opt2not]

Good reply! 
Truthfully, I missed the part about your 60in1 being temporary. Sorry!

Re: monitor, I left the original in there. It has some burn-in but it was working perfectly, still bright, and has good colours. With the tinted plexi in front of it, you can't tell how bad the burn is.
Figured there was no need to change it since its still in decent condition.

[saleem]

well time will only tell on that one,if i was given a fiver every time i heard these type of 1 liners where it was actualy anything but,i would have plenty of money.
 

[SirPeale]

I've seen quite a few sites that show how to check the voltages on a Pac-Man board.  I'd start on the rectifying diodes.  Do you know how to use a multimeter?

Did you say this has a 'suitcase' power supply?  Ms Pac IIRC had two different PS during its run; the transformer style, and a huge monstrosity.

[StuDaBaker]

I found this website:http://lawnmowerman.rotheblog.com/#basictips
There's a lot of good info there regarding the pac's.

No, I'm not real familiar with the thing yet. I've been able to use a multimeter, so long as I look up in the manual what to set it on for what I want to test .

Yes, it is the suitcase power distribution assembly, here it is on the workbench. It is a bit intimidating. The labels for the fuses are mostly unreadable.