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| New HAPP horizontal pushbuttons sux! Stay away! |
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| RandyT:
--- Quote from: AndyWarne on October 28, 2009, 04:57:56 pm ---As with many Happ items, when Happ bought ChinaTec, they started producing more of their own items rather than buying-in, and I would assume the buttons in question here are from China. I have never seen these. --- End quote --- I believe that is a safe assumption. The Suzo-HAPP branded buttons are definitely not coming from the previous US manufacturer, who I can say with 100% certainty made the other button shown in this thread. 10's of thousands of both varieties have passed through my hands....I'd know them with the lights off. FWIW, HAPP has been actively weening themselves from the IL parts, and their manufacturing plant has been upping their game. They switched up a higher end pushbutton nut on me recently, that used to be made by IL. The fit and finish of the replacement is fantastic. I never knew they did it until a bag of them came in with the factory sticker still on it. As far as the newer Suzo-HAPP branded buttons are concerned, the finish, uniformity and quality of the colors is actually better than the past offering. Spanish manufacturers aren't the only source for quality arcade parts. :) RandyT |
| Jack Burton:
This might be the wrong place to say this, but you know what I really want? A Japanese style pushbutton that will fit Happ and IL mounting. Something like a Sanwa OBSF-30, except a little smaller to fit holes in American control panels, and long enough to fit through 3/4" MDF. It should use the same or very similar switch that Sanwa uses. If you could make that Randy I would buy 32 from you instantly. |
| Ginsu Victim:
A Sanwa-style button made for wood would sell. I'd give 'em a try. |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: Jack Burton on October 28, 2009, 08:22:57 pm ---This might be the wrong place to say this, but you know what I really want? A Japanese style pushbutton that will fit Happ and IL mounting. Something like a Sanwa OBSF-30, except a little smaller to fit holes in American control panels, and long enough to fit through 3/4" MDF. It should use the same or very similar switch that Sanwa uses. If you could make that Randy I would buy 32 from you instantly. --- End quote --- I'm not sure it's possible to make them longer without screwing up the dynamic you obviously like about them. Having such a short body, and a much shorter throw, affords them the opportunity to be very tight. Once you start extending the components to reach through 3/4" of wood, and needing to add threads for nuts to hold them, which can compress the body somewhat due to the drafts that are necessary for demolding, etc. , it gets a lot a harder to take the slop out without getting stickage. So why not just put some extension wires on the contacts of the Sanwa's, drill a proper size, slightly tight, hole and jam (sorry, I meant "press fit" ;) ) them into the wood. Do they fall out? RandyT |
| Jack Burton:
Well, I can do what you say about shoving them in, and they will stay pretty tight due the tabs on the snap-in buttons applying a little pressure. But the main reason I would like the buttons I described is so I wouldn't have to drill out my holes, or rely on a hack to get them to fit. It would be very nice to be able to do a no-tools swap of standard horizontal pushbuttons for these buttons. I know a lot of fighting game players on shoryuken.com would jump at this opportunity. I can see how the plunger on the OBSF and an IL horizontal pushbutton differ now that I've looked at them critically. The plunger on the OBSF goes all the way to the bottom of the hole, but the Il has a little lip that stops it, and then there are two legs that go further down to press the microswitch. A spring gives the button a quick return. Is there a way the two designs can be combined? I'm envisioning a button that has a lip inside the hole that will limit the plunger to the length of the standard OBSF, and then the slotted tab inside the middle of the OBSF will extend further down into the hole in the same way the legs do on the IL button. That tab will connect to the switch. I think this will circumvent the issue of the plunger sticking due to excessive length. I'm not sure the extra length on the button will change the reaction of the button. The extra weight that the switch has to push back up should be negligible. I doubt it's even a gram. The length is longer, but the activation time should be the same, since the bottom of the button is the same distance from the switch as it was originally. The buttons don't even have to be as long as IL or Happ buttons. Just being 1/2" longer than the current OBSF's would be enough. |
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