Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Restoring my first arcade cabinet - Centipede
RayB:
Original would be difficult to do unless the original wiring is all there, unhacked. It's WAY simpler to connect a switching power supply like you already have. Big blue has NO effect in the set up you have now, but if you had the original parts instead, then it becomes VERY important. When it fails, it causes power issues that eventually damage the AR-II, which in turn damages your game board. That's why you don't go for the "if it ain't broke..." approach. It's like doing maintenance on a car engine to prevent the whole engine from ever blowing.
StuDaBaker:
--- Quote from: RayB on October 22, 2009, 12:37:11 am ---Original would be difficult to do unless the original wiring is all there, unhacked. It's WAY simpler to connect a switching power supply like you already have. Big blue has NO effect in the set up you have now, but if you had the original parts instead, then it becomes VERY important. When it fails, it causes power issues that eventually damage the AR-II, which in turn damages your game board. That's why you don't go for the "if it ain't broke..." approach. It's like doing maintenance on a car engine to prevent the whole engine from ever blowing.
--- End quote ---
So from a preservation standpoint, it's a better idea to keep the switching power supply instead of going authentic with the AR-II?
ChadTower:
I say go with the modern power solution. It's safer for the PCB and that is the real value here.
Level42:
I do not agree.
But since the switcher's already in there....leave it I'd say.
SirPeale:
--- Quote from: Level42 on October 23, 2009, 11:11:59 am ---I do not agree.
But since the switcher's already in there....leave it I'd say.
--- End quote ---
I agree with both these statements. The original equipment works well AS LONG AS IT IS MAINTAINED LIKE ANY OTHER PIECE OF EQUIPMENT (emphasis because so many people seem to forget that any machine requires maintenance), but since it's already working with a switcher, it would be more trouble to get an AR/II working with it.
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