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| my 5 year saga to get my arcade machine working! help! |
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| newmanfamilyvlogs:
The things that need to be addressed is the whole power issue, the video signal you're feeding to the monitor, and then the cable itself. The diagram and wiring it into the harness connected to your monitor should take care of the last issue. As for the power, someone said they thought they saw an isolation transformer in one of the pictures. Knowing what type of monitor you have will help make sure of if this needs to be connected or not. Basically it helps keep the rest of the power in the cab 'isolated' from the high voltages in the monitor. It's a safety feature. These wire up pretty straight forward: you've got two wires coming in from your main AC, and two coming out to go to your monitor. The next question is the video signal itself. You indicated you've got a JPAC and a ArcadeVGA... If your original wiring harness was not half destroyed, you wouldn't even need to worry about wiring up the VGA socket, as the plugs would be taken care of by the JPAC, so to proceed we're going to need a clear idea of what wiring IS there. The ArcadeVGA will output a proper signal for the monitor once it's installed on a computer and the drivers installed. Traditionally that would go into the JPAC via it's VGA plug, then the video gets to the monitor via the JAMMA wiring harness. Since as I understand it you've already disconnected the monitor from the original JAMMA connector, we're either going to be bypassing the vga portion of the jpac, or rebuilding the jamma harness. If you're thinking about starting fresh you might as well just reuse the ipac you had before since I'll assume that's how you had the buttons rigged up to begin with. Unless you plan on having another JAMMA board in there at some point in the future, the JPAC is going to be a little redundant. So the next question I'd have for you is how do you WANT to proceed? Either method will work, both will require wiring stuff back up. |
| BilldaCat:
--- Quote from: cotmm68030 on December 06, 2010, 10:43:38 am ---The things that need to be addressed is the whole power issue, the video signal you're feeding to the monitor, and then the cable itself. The diagram and wiring it into the harness connected to your monitor should take care of the last issue. As for the power, someone said they thought they saw an isolation transformer in one of the pictures. Knowing what type of monitor you have will help make sure of if this needs to be connected or not. Basically it helps keep the rest of the power in the cab 'isolated' from the high voltages in the monitor. It's a safety feature. These wire up pretty straight forward: you've got two wires coming in from your main AC, and two coming out to go to your monitor. The next question is the video signal itself. You indicated you've got a JPAC and a ArcadeVGA... If your original wiring harness was not half destroyed, you wouldn't even need to worry about wiring up the VGA socket, as the plugs would be taken care of by the JPAC, so to proceed we're going to need a clear idea of what wiring IS there. The ArcadeVGA will output a proper signal for the monitor once it's installed on a computer and the drivers installed. Traditionally that would go into the JPAC via it's VGA plug, then the video gets to the monitor via the JAMMA wiring harness. Since as I understand it you've already disconnected the monitor from the original JAMMA connector, we're either going to be bypassing the vga portion of the jpac, or rebuilding the jamma harness. If you're thinking about starting fresh you might as well just reuse the ipac you had before since I'll assume that's how you had the buttons rigged up to begin with. Unless you plan on having another JAMMA board in there at some point in the future, the JPAC is going to be a little redundant. So the next question I'd have for you is how do you WANT to proceed? Either method will work, both will require wiring stuff back up. --- End quote --- Ok -- I don't plan on having another board in there. The buttons are still rigged up to the I-PAC that's in there, pretty sure I did all the rewiring right but obviously haven't been able to get to a point to test that yet. Not sure if the video I posted earlier of the guts of my machine helps or not, but here it is again: |
| newmanfamilyvlogs:
That video is being marked as being private. |
| BilldaCat:
--- Quote from: cotmm68030 on December 06, 2010, 11:26:51 am ---That video is being marked as being private. --- End quote --- whoops. should be good now. |
| newmanfamilyvlogs:
Wow what a mess.. I'm going to guess that that is a K7000 based on the remote board. http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Spec/K7000.pdf So that makes the video input on the monitor go (from back of the cab to the front): Red (VGA Pin 1) Blue (VGA Pin 2) Green (VGA Pin 3) Ground (The outside sheild, or pins 5 or 10) V-Sync (VGA Pin 14) H-Sync (VGA Pin 13) You'll notice in the PDF that there is a +V/H Sync and a -V/H Sync. I'm not sure which a standard video card is going to produce so if it doesn't work on the first set of Ground/V/H, you can just move the pins down on the connector. It shouldn't hurt anything to run it a few seconds to see that it doesn't work. Since you've got an arcadevga card, you'll be able to tell that during the bios posting of the pc. As for all the rest of the wiring.. I'm not sure you're going to need a whole lot of it. You've got the buttons wired into the IPac. That should work just fine. The jamma connector that's left in there isn't going to do you much good since it's not really hooked up to anything anymore. Same for the power supply that it's in there. The isolation transformer for the monitor runs off it's own connection to AC mains, so that arcade PSU is redundant at this point. What you'll want to do is get something like a 'smart strip' or a 'usb power switch' to allow the computer to control the cutting on/off of the monitor, marquee lights, speaker amplifier. Smart Strip: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L9A7ZS? USB controlled power switch: http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKPS01&Show=ExtInfo You probably will want to just sell the JPac. |
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