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Author Topic: Aliens Themed Cab  (Read 147590 times)

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rablack97

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Nice Epyx,

The green brought it all together. Loving it.

I just thought of something though, are you still lighting underneath the CP.  If so, how is that green neon gonna look against that green panel?

Now that you've went with the green t-molding, I'm thinking more neon there would be a slight overkill.

Disregard if you've nixed that idea, but just something to think about......

« Last Edit: March 08, 2010, 12:14:22 am by rablack97 »

Epyx

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Nice Epyx,

The green brought it all together. Loving it.

I just thought of something though, are you still lighting underneath the CP.  If so, how is that green neon gonna look against that green panel?

Now that you've went with the green t-molding, I'm thinking more neon there would be a slight overkill.

Disregard if you've nixed that idea, but just something to think about......

Ya, you guessed it...nixxed ;)

I think the theme will be better served with lighting from the sources mentioned above.
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rablack97

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  Re: Aliens Themed Cab *CP Finished - Flush/Top Mounting + Question * Mar 7 2010
« Reply #361 on: Yesterday at 11:57:24 PM » Quote Modify  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also,  I know we both been using those speaker rings, but I just looked back at your previous posts, and I see you haven't fired up both the rings and your back lighting.

You mentioned the backlighting will be subtle, but in your posts that back lighting is pretty bright, which will in fact light up your neons.  That white light, lights up the filaments in the speaker rings without any juice to the speaker rings.

So your back light is gonna kill your neons, I had this happen when testing the lumin disks with the neons.  I have mine sound activated now so they only stand out when a bass note hits.  Any other time, the lumin disks lit up the neon rings and killed my effect.

You'll see what I'm talking about when you fire both up, ones gonna kill the other, and you'll end up thinking you've overkilled it on the lighting for one area.  
 

Nacimroc

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Looks fantastic! Are you doing the front curved piece is black or green ? I know the original design shows green but black may look better ?

I never thought no CP art would look that good, but it makes it look much more professional! You find touching the laminate on the CP leaving grease marks?

Epyx

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@Rablack97

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You'll see what I'm talking about when you fire both up, ones gonna kill the other, and you'll end up thinking you've overkilled it on the lighting for one area.

Thanks Rablack97...and I would tend to agree with you ahead of firing them up.  The only thing I will try differently from those original pics is to diffuse the light and limit it to just the crevasse. In the pics the light was non-diffused and was illuminating the entire circle from behind. Hopefully limiting it to just a slit opening behind the crevasse and diffusing it will help. If not, you are bang on...I will just go with the Neon rings :)

@Nacimroc

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Looks fantastic! Are you doing the front curved piece is black or green ? I know the original design shows green but black may look better ?

I never thought no CP art would look that good, but it makes it look much more professional! You find touching the laminate on the CP leaving grease marks?

You know I was actually thinking about going black as it would allow me to laminate...here is why this might work better. The curved MDF I have been testing using slits cut every 1/2" to within 1/8" depth, bends fine but reveals the ribs from behind in the light...ie the creases when bending.  This would likely still be visible painted.

Going with black laminate will cover those creases and also allow me to embed two black USB circular ports just under the lip.  So agreed, black just might work better on more than one front.

As for grease marks...yep just like plexi if you have greasy mitts it will leave marks in the light. It will require cleaning from time to time like Plexi.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2010, 11:34:27 am by Epyx »
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Ryglore

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As for grease marks...yep just like plexi if you have greasy mitts it will leave marks in the light. It will require cleaning from time to time like Plexi.

Makes me glad my CP is mostly white and lighter colors as fingerprinting and hand oils aren't as visible. I can bet your CP is going to be like my Black DS Lite and constantly battling smudges.  :D

Epyx

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Lol ya...not too bad with just me playing it as I have pretty dry hands but some of my clammier friends ;) *cough*

Worst case I could always add some thin plexi on top but ive had all laminate on both other cabs and wasn't really an issue.

« Last Edit: March 08, 2010, 12:05:55 pm by Epyx »
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BurgerKingDiamond

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I think the black CP is pretty classy. I would leave it.
-Welcome to the Fantasy Zone.

Epyx

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Oh agreed, I have  no desire to change it.  Just in a holding pattern until all my orders arrive and have spent time wiring the CP in the interim :)

I had lost one of my Novagems somewhere so got an IL replacement and drilled it and to be safe have ordered two more Novagems from Randy and now likely another 12 of the newer ones!  >:D

Ive been documenting the wiring which hopefully helps some people who have never done wiring before and will include that in some detail this weekend.  Speaking of the weekend...that is my target date for finishing the cab finally...provided my speaker mounts from Germany arrive today or tomorrow ;)
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severdhed

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wow....simply stunning.  i love it


Current Projects:      Zak-Man | TMNT Pedestal | SNES Pi | N64 Odroid
Former Projects:     4 Player Showcase | Donkey Kong | iCade

kyoke

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I'm amazed by your ingenuity Epyx, this is a really sweet looking cabinet. "Portable Mode" is super-classy.
Work in Progress: R-TYPE Themed Bartop - "R-CADE"

Epyx

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Thanks guys!
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Epyx

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Finally the weekend! Woo hoo!!!!

I went to my favourite little glass shop and broke down and purchased a 26.5"x22 1/4" piece of smoked glass to replace the plexi I was using...main reason is the larger plexi was a static magnet.  The glass fit like a glove and looks smokin (excuse the bad 3am pun!).

First thing I noticed in my mailbox on the way home were the added parts I had ordered.

Speaker Mounts:




And these black convex player 1/2 black with white to replace the traditional white with black...I think it looks much better:



Objective since it was too late to work in the garage cutting, was to complete at least the LED Wiz wiring. 

First up was the RGB drive and mounting it on the XGaming Betson clone I have. I am not sure about the actual Betson's...but the XGaming one has a screw sized hole right near the bottom trackball hole, as if intended for the RGB kit:




I then connected the Novagems to the buttons. Here is the spare IL translucent green after I drilled it (I ordered replacements from RandyT but will just keep those as spares when they arrive):











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Epyx

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Here is the wiring complete for the LED Wiz...the mini rats nest on the top left will be organized further...getting tired! You can see to the right of the nest a euro terminal block that is feeding the 5 volts for the Lighting. The 5v runs to a hacked molex plug which will hang beneath the CP.



Here is the CP with new Player 1 /2 buttons lit with the lights in the room still on.  The Trackball is RGB but I just set it to Green for this pic:



And finally with the lights off:



I am really pleased with the lighting...damn those Novagems are bright when viewed top down!  

Tomorrow the funnage continues with me working on the back and panel that rests between coin door and CP. This panel will include USB and some other ports/buttons.  Getting close to playable...ooooh can't wait!





« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 05:59:59 am by Epyx »
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Nacimroc

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That looks amazing! Nice work! Laminate gives a nice glow instead of a reflection. Getting giddy to see the finished cab now! That idea with the black player 1&2 buttons is great! You put on the stickers yourself or can you buy the buttons like this? Looks so much better than white ones!

For a marquee light, are you going to use a white shaving light or a green neon ? I turned off the white shaving light I had as it didn't suit the CP at all when illuminated and used cold cathodes instead. Delighted I did.

opt2not

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Epyx, I take it back: after seeing these pics, there no need for CP artwork on this one. The lighting effect off the formica luminance looks amazing! That's a gorgeous green, it's so inviting! It's too bad the spinner isn't lit up as well. Though it would make the balance of lit objects asymmetrical, and modding the spinner to fit  an LED in there would be a pain (i've thought about it on my cocktail cabinet).

Eventually I should make a project with lit controls, I haven't been willing to take that plunge yet due to the extra work and cost.  But daaaaamn, it looks so sexy.  :applaud: :applaud:

Epyx

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@Nacimroc

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That looks amazing! Nice work! Laminate gives a nice glow instead of a reflection. Getting giddy to see the finished cab now! That idea with the black player 1&2 buttons is great! You put on the stickers yourself or can you buy the buttons like this? Looks so much better than white ones!

For a marquee light, are you going to use a white shaving light or a green neon ? I turned off the white shaving light I had as it didn't suit the CP at all when illuminated and used cold cathodes instead. Delighted I did.

I bought those buttons from the German www.arcadeshop.de and they come that way stock which is nice.  As for the marquee light, I totally agree. I have both Neon green cathode and regular white LED and will try both to see which looks better.

@Opt2not

Quote
It's too bad the spinner isn't lit up as well. Though it would make the balance of lit objects asymmetrical, and modding the spinner to fit  an LED in there would be a pain (i've thought about it on my cocktail cabinet).

Ya an LED on a spinner would be pretty nice.  I did use a UV paint on the Spinner, so once I have the Black light installed it will give off a glow of its own which I am hoping will look good! /crossesfingers
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taylormadelv

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Very, very impressive! Looks like you spared NO EXPENSE in building this real nice-like. Congrats on the sweet build!

Silas (son of Silas)

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Hot Damn, is there no end to the arcade eye candy goodness?
" ਜਿਹੜਾ ਲਾਓ ਜਰਦਾ ਉਹ ਸੌ ਸਾਲ ਨੰਈ ਮਰਦਾ " (he who chews tobacco would live to be a hundred )

My Project MAME clone
Who is Silas?

Epyx

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Today I made it to the final stretch...next weekend I complete the cab by adding the back.  I worked on the panel between the coin door and CP. This panel has 2 Neutrik USB ports on the left and 5 buttons on the right...I know...why 5 buttons?  Well they aren't all going to be buttons.  Only 3 will be functional as buttons...the far left 2 will be mouse buttons and the far right will be the power (Green Novagem...lit when powered).  The other 2 will have button covers but contain Volume adjustment and the last one a headphone jack. Once I have finished these mods I will post the process as well.

So first up the panel.  I used a 15/16 spade bit which is a perfect fit for the Neutrik USB ports if anyone wants them mounted perfectly:



First I lined up the buttons and adapters where I wanted them...this was about 2/3 up so I can reach my hand down and around the lip for power and mouse buttons.



Next up was the lamination. Again I use my small cuts to line up the laminate before joining and trimming:




Both the top and bottom of the panel were angle cut to rest flush on the CP and Coin door:



Here is the panel attached with the neon rings lit up. I will still be cutting slits to light the crevasse as my test shows its dark enough at the center of the art to get a good effect and not be overpowered:





All the wiring is done as I wanted to be able to bring the PC down and tweak on the arcade monitor.  

Next up:

- Back of Cab
- Final Tweaks
- Complete Button Mods
- Cut slits in Side art backing to light just crevasse
- PLAYTIME!!! Finally get to join some high score comps again!








« Last Edit: March 22, 2010, 04:18:51 pm by Epyx »
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opt2not

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Lookin' hot! When everything is lit up it's going to look so sweet.

Though, I don't know about putting the power button on the front of the cabinet...might be too easy for people to accidentally stumble upon.

Epyx

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Ya...I might change that. I had a similar setup with the bartop and didn't have any issues...but then again the panel is quickly replaceable if it proves impractical. I also didn't like the idea of having a lot of jacks like audio/volume sitting beside the USB ports and instead opted to go for hiding them in the buttons. They will sit between the power and the two mouse buttons but again if it proves problematic ill replace the panel.

At least the angle is such that when standing in front of the cab you don't see the buttons and USB ports...you have to step back and look under and its hard to accidentally nudge it...either way I hear ya and will keep an eye on it :)
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rablack97

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Wow,

Looking good Epyx,

You could always go with the remote power on.  I love it and it works great.

The best part is the the arcade is upstairs, so if i forget to shut it down, I can easily use the remote from anywhere in the house as it will be on the keychain.  Plus you ever have the compnay over with the really bad kids, and they go over to the machine and just start pressing buttons.  Well ha ha ha to them, cant turn it on w/o the remote.

Also, it freaks people out when I hit that switch and the thing comes on.

You lost me on the volume buttons, will the volume adjust by pressing the buttons, or are you covering up a different control and it's just cosmetic?


Epyx

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You could always go with the remote power on.  I love it and it works great.

That sounds like a good idea. I might do that at a future point...for now I will configure it to power up on AC Detection via the BIOS.  The button will be more to just shut it down and to turn it on if I haven't unplugged it in the back.

Quote
You lost me on the volume buttons, will the volume adjust by pressing the buttons, or are you covering up a different control and it's just cosmetic?

Just covering them up but trying to do it in a way that doesn't have me fiddling to remove the plunger each time I want to adjust audio or use the headphones.
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Dagitt

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Epyx, have to say that is on sweet cab you've built.  I can't wait to see the thing fully completed.  I am still curious how you are going to get the curved backpanel on.  Are you going to notch the plywood to get the proper curve or are you doing something else?  I may have to "borrow" the design for my cab project.... ;D.  Have to say you have done a great job.

rablack97

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For the headphones why not just use some feedthroughs like the USB, they are hardly noticable when installed.





Also you might want to look at these programs and get creative.....http://www.killertechtips.com/2009/04/14/freeware-control-volume-mouse-wheel/

They are volume control programs that let you map volume up & down to keystrokes.  I'm using 3rvx now with my keyboard, but i'm trying to figure out a way to get it to run through the ipac and to a volume up and volume down button.....


Epyx

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Epyx, have to say that is on sweet cab you've built.  I can't wait to see the thing fully completed.  I am still curious how you are going to get the curved backpanel on.  Are you going to notch the plywood to get the proper curve or are you doing something else?  I may have to "borrow" the design for my cab project....

Curved back is going to look fantastic.  It is being done in 3 stages...a first 1" piece will connect top of curve to middle curve. This is required as there is a steep angle of about 1" before the software curve that extends to the midway point.  I will do the midway softer curve using the same rib method I used for the top of the cab. The bottom panel will be a removable access panel that will be straight.

Here is a paint sketch that summarizes how I will do it:



Quote
For the headphones why not just use some feedthroughs like the USB, they are hardly noticable when installed.

That is similar to what I am putting in the buttons.  I had thought of having them installed like you show but also have the volume knob and I didn't want 3 different looking devices on the panel.  I can still change my mind though! :) 


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javeryh

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Awesome job.  I really like that under the CP panel you made.  I'm sure it's in here somewhere but what kind of monitor are you putting in there?. 

EDIT: NM - I went back and read some - a D9800.  That's what I thought.  Man this is nice.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2010, 03:16:42 pm by javeryh »

Epyx

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Thanks Javeryh, your Bella's cab awesome paint finish was the main reason I finally took the plunge..and also the reason I vowed to start using laminate! ;)
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SpaceHedgehog

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Wow Epyx  :applaud: This thing certainly looks the absolute business. You've absolutely nailed your original plans and then some. It's great to see how you've augmented it with all those extra bits and pieces. Fantastic work mate!
Click a pic for a video tour 

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Hey epyx, how did you attach your bezel? I can't see up close, but I'm assuming you didn't just put screws through the front. And how did you install your glass? does it just rest there? It's getting close for me to install my own bezel and plexi and I don't know how to go about it.

thanks, BKD :burgerking:
-Welcome to the Fantasy Zone.

Epyx

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Hey epyx, how did you attach your bezel? I can't see up close, but I'm assuming you didn't just put screws through the front. And how did you install your glass? does it just rest there? It's getting close for me to install my own bezel and plexi and I don't know how to go about it.

thanks, BKD

If you look at the previous page it shows some closeups of the angled brackets I used. Here in a bit more verbal detail is what I did:

I have the bezel resting along the via monitor but pressure rests on the brackets. It touches the sides of the glass but rests on weather stripping I have put on the back of the bezel. Weather stripping is adhesive on one side with a peel away layer...the other side is black foam.  I used the 1.5" wide stuff. It is approximately 1/4" deep and can be purchased at Home Depot.

The top of the bezel passes up and behind the speaker panel by about 1.5" where it does touch the glass it rests on 2 small angled iron brackets (1 on each side). The bottom sits on a 90 degree angle...the angle has about 3/4" of space on each edge...the bezel is 1/2" which leave 1/4".  The glass I use is 22 1/4" (top to bottom) and 26.5" (wide) by 1/4" thick it rests perfectly on the angle (as you can see in the picture, it rests flush).  The glass extends up to just below the speaker shelf (just touching it).

The angled wood is itself mounted at an angle to hold the bezel and glass by two 90 degree steel braces. These braces have holes in them which I use to insert pins. Gravity holds the glass and bezel in place but the pins ensure they stay put "Just in case".

Let me know if you have any more questions...oh and the reason I have built it this way is that I can take everything apart quickly to get at the monitor etc.

Ill take a few more pictures if you like of the bezel.  The other thing I have done on a previous cab is used angle brackets along the side of the monitor to rest the bezel on.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2010, 11:41:25 pm by Epyx »
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Luigi

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AWESOME!! I always love to see my sticks sitting in a perfect place ;)

My suggestion for the spinner would be a green LED underneath the panel, so the hole for the spinner axis is lit.


Epyx

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My suggestion for the spinner would be a green LED underneath the panel, so the hole for the spinner axis is lit.

That should work nicely! Ill have to see as it will have a UV glow but I can remedy that by not using a UV light ;)
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rablack97

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Maybe you could incorporate Ond's lit plunger idea or 4 Leds diffused by the short buttons idea, to light up the spinner.

Epyx

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Maybe you could incorporate Ond's lit plunger idea or 4 Leds diffused by the short buttons idea, to light up the spinner.

Another great idea...I will see what I can do. Would be nice to have it on the LEDWiz as well to light up for spinner games with LEDBlinky.
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gryhnd

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damn those Novagems are bright when viewed top down!

I ended up having to slip some resistors in mine for the very same reason. It hurt to look at them  ::)
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rablack97

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Yeah i bought one novagem for testing reasons, gonna have 6 of them in my admin panel so they will be staring right at me.  Although I plan on having some naming inserts in them so maybe it wont be so bad......

Epyx, do you think diffusers will be needed for the gaming buttons, you have 12 lit on on your CP, is it hard on the eyes when you look down.

Epyx

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Epyx, do you think diffusers will be needed for the gaming buttons, you have 12 lit on on your CP, is it hard on the eyes when you look down.

While they are super bright staring straight down into them, in a playing stance my head is far enough back that they are just fine.  Ill have everything lit up tonight and do some more playing...i mean testing and get a better feel but last night wasn't even an issue.
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Ryglore

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Is there a front shot of the cab fully lit up and the side rings? Or am I just missing it? Either way... AWESOME!!.!

Your cab is super sexy!  :cheers: :cheers: