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| Epyx:
@SpaceHedgehog Ya me too...the challenge is more fun than had I wimped out...besides knowing me I would always be wondering "what if I had just"... I have an idea that will make assembling and disassembling this cab easy as pie...ill test and document the idea tonight but I am confident it will work. @clickhea I used a large chunk of leftover rectangular laminate...approx 8" wide by 60" long. You can see this in one of the above pictures. Using clamps I held the back of the curve in place. I would then trace with a pencil along the inner side of the curve. I would start at one end but just a bit ahead of my pencil (maybe 12") I would place a counterweight like wood etc to push the laminate against the clamps from behind, maintaining the curve. The picture above shows only a couple of clamps but this picture was before drawing...during drawing I had about 8 clamps forming the backside of the curve. The actual cutting of the curves was done with my jigsaw (going very slow and steady and set to slight orbital curve). I then sanded just the first piece smooth. The 2nd piece I will route tonight using the first piece as a template with my flush router bit. |
| clickhea:
well it looks awesome bro |
| Epyx:
Tonight I flush routed side 2 from side 1 and did a final sanding. I initially had some thought about portability, and decided what I really wanted was the ability to disassemble the cab if required. The main reason is I want to do the finishing work (painting etc) in the garage where my tools are, but hate the thought of having to move the entire cab downstairs. Reading in the forums a few threads discussed threaded inserts but most of them were horizontal which is less than ideal. I did a quick mock up to test if I could do a horizontal flanged insert. The idea being three horizontal layers of support beams. Most of the weight in the cab is weight pushing down, not to the side. With this logic as long as the monitor weight is directly support by the ground via support beams I should be able to connect the sides with horizontal beams that use vertically mounted flanged inserts. Mounting the flanged inserts this way ensures they won't get ripped out. The bolt screws through the horizontal beam and then into the cross latch which itself is mounted to the side via wood glue. To disassemble the cab I would remove the top marquee retainer (also connected via inserts) and remove the marquee picture, marquee light (also on a horizontal board). Then I would remove the monitor and computer and take out the horizontal support beams. Using the inserts I don't have to worry about wearing out screw holes etc. This picture illustrates the idea: And here pictures of a mock up to test the idea.: |
| Epyx:
cont... The top and back will be plywood. 1/8" on the top and 1/4" on the back. I will use one of the existing sides of the cabinet as a template for the curve of the exo-skeleton that the plywood will curve over. The back and top will each have 4 ribs. The outer side ribs of the top portion will connect to the sides of the cab via horizontal flanged inserts (the main horizontal support beams have vertical ones so this should be fine). The plan for the back is a series of magnets, like a hatch door. I used magnets on my first cab and it worked well so hopefully it works here..if not plan b...oh don't have a plan b yet... Both top and back will have the laminate over the plywood so this should form a smooth matching curved back and top just under the side edges. Either way that is the plan for the next few weeks. More Pics to follow as the build progresses. |
| Ryglore:
Nice! The portability idea is neat, but I don't know if I would do it. I think maybe if you were taking the time to do it and make it the best possible (including any Bella-like technique of Sand and Paint hell) I would be worried about moving it and maring the surfaces. I know I'll be super over protective of Shmup when it's done, just cause of the side graphics. But, hey I'm sure you can pull it off and I can't wait to see your progress! :cheers: |
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