New Project, my plan so far, any suggestions gladly accepted!

[smazze]

Hello all and thanks for all the excellent information on this site that's gotten this far...I'm putting together a cabinet for my basement.  I've been working on my cpu for a month or so, using launchbox/big box and have all the emulators and Roms setup and running good on my cpu.  While doing this, I've been researching and pricing things out...I really wanted to buy a cabinet from RRM, but they're a bit pricey and I also want a 4p cabinet.  Theirs just doesn't seem like enough room.  I know there's both sides to a 2p vs. 4p, but I've decided on 4p.  The best deal I've found for what I'm looking for is GRS.  They have terrible customer service reviews, but the cabinet seems solid so I am leaning that way.  Their 4p cab looks good, plenty of space.  Planning to just have them make the cuts and I'll order the guts from the many reputable vendors I've found through this site.  Art-wise, I'm kind borning - Think I just want a black cab with some type of art on the bezel and control panel maybe plus the marquee.  Little nervous about GRS, but I'm pretty handy and have the tools to fix anything that's not too messed up.  If I had the time and space, I'd just build a cabinet, but i don't unfortunately.  If anyone knows a place i can get a 4p "kit" for under a 1k, let me know!

Other questions I have so far:

1.  Planning to use Sanwa joysticks and buttons with an Ipac 4.  I also would like a spinner, trackball, and separate 4-way joystick.  What would i need for the last 3 - I was thinking the Opti-pac for the Spinner and trackball - is that right?  Any suggestions regarding the control interfaces would be appreciated, just trying to figure it out.  From what I've read, the Ipac is preferrred to USB encoders, is that generally correct?  I don't mind wiring everything, I enjoy it so no worries there.

2.  How does the power work?  I've seen the little kits for the power switch etc., but how does that work with everything else?  Does the CPU, monitor, and everything else plug into a power stip that's connected to a switch so it all turns on at the same time?  I'm guessing I could set this up in my CPU bios, but not sure about the monitor.  Just wondering how it's done correctly.

3.  Also for the volume - the sounds kits look like they have amps that have volume knobs...do people use those for volume or is it somehow done though software.  The front/bottom of the GRS cabinet control panel looks open, so i was thinking maybe I could mount the amp there to turn the knobs.

4.  I have 4 kids and they really want to play the light gun games.  i want to add this at some point - is there anything I need to be aware of now, beforehand, to make sure my setup can play the lightgun games, with the Sinden guns probably.

5.  RGB - I don't think I want light-up buttons or trackball etc., but was thinking maybe for some of the admin buttons.  Not sure on this, like I said I'm a little boring.  Question is - If I get some light-up buttons, are those powered from the Ipac or is there a separate led controller I'd need?

Well, thanks for the read and anything you can suggest. 

[PL1]

General advice:  Check out the FAQ in the wiki, especially the design process in the What type of build meets my needs? section.  Take you time working through it and if your answer to #2 is "All of them", you're doing it wrong.   

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/FAQ#What_type_of_build_meets_my_needs.3F

1.  Planning to use Sanwa joysticks and buttons with an Ipac 4.  I also would like a spinner, trackball, and separate 4-way joystick.  What would i need for the last 3 - I was thinking the Opti-pac for the Spinner and trackball - is that right?  Any suggestions regarding the control interfaces would be appreciated, just trying to figure it out.  From what I've read, the Ipac is preferrred to USB encoders, is that generally correct?  I don't mind wiring everything, I enjoy it so no worries there.

Since you're using an IPac 4, you'll need a separate optical (mouse) encoder because the Dupont pins on the IPac 4 are not used for optical inputs like the IPac 2.

If you're sourcing the spinner and trackball from Ultimarc, the optional optical encoder is plug-and-play easy -- one for the trackball, one for the spinner(s).



If you use the Optipac, you'll only need one for the trackball and spinner(s), but you'll need to extract the pins Dupont pins from the header or cut/strip the wires.

You may also want to consider the OptiWiz3.  It's easy to extract the Dupont pins from the header and reinsert them in the right order.
https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_85&products_id=260



For the separate 4-way stick, you can wire it in parallel with your 8-way stick.
- Hook the NO (Normally Open) from both left switches to the left input on your IPac.  When you press left on either stick, ground is applied to the left input on the encoder (IPac) which triggers the output.  The screw terminals on the IPac can easily handle two wires each.

2.  How does the power work?  I've seen the little kits for the power switch etc., but how does that work with everything else?  Does the CPU, monitor, and everything else plug into a power stip that's connected to a switch so it all turns on at the same time?  I'm guessing I could set this up in my CPU bios, but not sure about the monitor.  Just wondering how it's done correctly.

One common approach is to use a switched IEC inlet providing power to a smart strip.
- Plug the computer into the master/control outlet on the smart strip. (blue)
- Wire an arcade-style pushbutton to the motherboard power switch.  Put the switch where you can reach it easily, but you won't accidently press it.
- When you turn on the computer, the smart strip senses the increased current draw and applies power the slave/switched outlets (green) where your monitor is plugged in.  When you shut down the conputer, the smart strip sees that the current draw falls below a certain level and it removes power from the slave/switched outlets.  Some people have found it very useful to get a smart strip with an adjustable on/off threshold.

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch

3.  Also for the volume - the sounds kits look like they have amps that have volume knobs...do people use those for volume or is it somehow done though software.  The front/bottom of the GRS cabinet control panel looks open, so i was thinking maybe I could mount the amp there to turn the knobs.

Your call on whether you prefer to use hardware, software, or a combination of the two for volume control.   

4.  I have 4 kids and they really want to play the light gun games.  i want to add this at some point - is there anything I need to be aware of now, beforehand, to make sure my setup can play the lightgun games, with the Sinden guns probably.

There's the usual stuff to consider:
- Avoid placing the cab where the lightguns can see reflections of IR from sunlight off the monitor.

- You'll need to mount the IR LEDs for the lightgun.

- If you get guns with recoil, you'll need to power the solenoid -- USB 5v isn't going to be enough for that.

5.  RGB - I don't think I want light-up buttons or trackball etc., but was thinking maybe for some of the admin buttons.  Not sure on this, like I said I'm a little boring.  Question is - If I get some light-up buttons, are those powered from the Ipac or is there a separate led controller I'd need?

No controller needed for always-on admin button LEDs.

You can grab 5v or 12v from a Molex or SATA power cable.

USB is another option, but it may have 5v always-on so check before you go that route.

Most admin button LEDs are rated for 12v, but will light up fine but slightly dimmer with 5v.
- Lower operating voltage ==> less current draw, less heat, and longer life.

Here's the approach I used. (scroll down for more details)
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119562.msg1270434.html#msg1270434

For many LED buttons, you can print your own inserts like the ones here or here on Avery Inkjet (8665 or 18665) or Laser (15665) labels.



WARNING:  Be cautious when using superglue to keep the LED diffusers from turning.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134501.0.html


Scott

[smazze]

Wow, thanks very much for all the great information, that helps a lot. 

For the power option - are you saying that you wire a button to the the actual motherboard on my PC?  I'm sure I can find something on You Tube to help, but that makes sense if that's what you mean.  I'll check it out.

I got swamped at work all the sudden so haven't gotten to digest it all yet!

[Zebidee]

For the power option - are you saying that you wire a button to the the actual motherboard on my PC? 

PCs usually have a soft power-on button. Often big, round and friendly, possibly lit, on the front of the computer.

Look behind that - there will be a pair of wires (two, one is usually black) leading back to a pin header (probably a total of 10 pins, 2x5) on the "actual" motherboard. There will be other wires for LEDs and such, so just sort it out. The pin headers are usually labeled, there will be two pins for power button. You can piggy-back your power button onto that.

The wires connect to the header pins with Dupont connectors, so there is no soldering things to motherboard required. Consult your motherboard manual for more info.

[PL1]

For the power option - are you saying that you wire a button to the the actual motherboard on my PC?  I'm sure I can find something on You Tube to help, but that makes sense if that's what you mean.  I'll check it out.

Yes. 

Like Zebidee said, connect a momentary pushbutton to the power switch Dupont pins on the motherboard like the guy does at 5:33 - 6:25 in this video.  I suggested an arcade-style button so you could mount it either on the top or back of the cab, but some people like to mount it on a bracket inside the coin door or use an LED "vandal switch" with the LED connected to the motherboard power LED pins.




Scott

[ericball]

Good plan getting the PC/emulator stuff working before spending $$ on the cabinet & controls.

Similarly, I'd recommend buying controls and then doing a mock-up of the control panel using cardboard or scrap plywood.  The point it to identify your actual requirements before building or buying an actual cabinet.

Another alternative is to buy some cheap USB knock-off console controllers and use those as stand-ins for the arcade controls to help to answer "how many players, how many buttons, what games do my kids actually play?"

[smazze]

Not a bad call - as I continue down this rabbit hole, I just have more and more questions.  There’s a lot of variables to digest with the joysticks, buttons, wiring, control board….Im having fun figuring it all out, just trying not to waste money so I appreciate your suggestion.

The whole family has it in their mind this thing is going to be done in a month lol.