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AC input wiring
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JustMichael:
Have you verified your switches to see if they are working the way you think they should?  Have you tried tested the continuity through switches when they are in the on and off positions?  The switches must be by themselves (nothing attached to them) when you do the test.
bungy:
Yes, I have checked the switches for continuity in on & off positions and while unwired.  I have tried a Gardner Bender SPST & DPST, a couple Leviton lightswitches, and the power strip switch.  All appear to be functioning correctly.
JustMichael:
Since you said when a load is plugged in the voltage drops to .5V when the switch is off, that sounds like you are getting an induced voltage in the piece of romex that goes from the hot, to the switch and back down to the outlet.  I'll bet if you use a shorter piece of romex you will get less voltage.  You will need to put some distance between the wire going from the hot to the switch and the wire going from the switch to the outlet.  This should solve the problem.
bungy:
I wondered about that, but I figured if it works in my walls, why wouldn't it work in my cabinet?  I'll give it a try and see what happens.
speedklz:
Remember in all this that AC is Alternating current and it goes both ways and switches 60 times a second, so shutting off the flow from one line does not shut it off from both, also a digital multi meter is not spec on acurate reading AC, it takes the an average reading so at smaller voltages there is gonna be some mis-reading. There may be no voltage at all flowing but the meter will read a small amount ( 10-40 volts) because of inductence in the meter between two long peices of wire. IF you dont beleive me put the meter on ohms and look at the reading then touch the leads togather and they zero out. So dont trust the meter. Or plug something into the outlet and check the amps reading on it, see if anything is flowing.
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