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| wooowman93:
The Cabinet i got had a coin door in it the door was a bit scratched up with the paint being rubbed off near where you insert the coin and there is a blob of paint from bad painting, i wanted to ask should i repaint the whole thing or just the spot without paint? how should i remove the paint? What paint should i use? and whats the voltage on return button lights? |
| bradx:
pretty sure the voltage varies depending on the bulb. take the bulb out and look up the numbers online. i have mine powered with an old 6V AC adapter i had laying around. |
| endrien:
--- Quote from: wooowman93 on August 29, 2009, 04:15:32 pm ---The Cabinet i got had a coin door in it the door was a bit scratched up with the paint being rubbed off near where you insert the coin and there is a blob of paint from bad painting, i wanted to ask should i repaint the whole thing or just the spot without paint? how should i remove the paint? What paint should i use? and whats the voltage on return button lights? --- End quote --- You should be able to power the lights via usb. I can make a video tutorial for you if you wish. Voltage depends on bulb. You can remove the paint by sanding, I've done this on both of my cabs so far and it looks nice. Paint I just used standard rust paint/black paint. |
| mvsfan:
thats a waste of a usb port although you could do it if you want to. It could very well mean the difference between adding a hub or not depending on your MOBO I havent heard of any coin door Lights yet that are powered by 6VDC. Their either 5V or 12V. in both cases, if your bulbs themselves say 6V, a 5V dc source will work fine. If the bulbs say 14V, a 12V source will also work fine. As long as the source is equal to or a bit less than the bulb rating, you will be fine. if your power source is much larger than the bulb rating, the bulb will burn out rapidly. if its only slightly larger, you will experience a much reduced lamp life. |
| Beretta:
im in the middle of doing a old coin door my self it was CAKED in rust.. so i stripped it to the metal. i tried a wire wheel in an electric drill but it was super thick, super tough paint from hell (someone had already redid the door before.. not factory job) and was taking a long time.. a wire wheel in my rotary tool did a great job but with such a small wheel it would take for ever, not to mention it eats the wheels up rather quickly. so i tried a heat gun.. cheap 10 dollar one from HF, actually the heat gun worked ok.. but i wasn't able to get a clean surface i was left with streaks from the putty knife. finally i tried paint stripper.. and it did a pretty good number on the door, one problem was though is cleaning it up.. it beat the crap out of the paint but it also made it very messy so it took a lot of paper towels to get it down to the bare metal. the frame however oddly did not want to strip and i was forced to leave roughly 25% of the paint on there.. i hit it with a wire brush and still nothing.. 4 or 5 coats of paint stripper later i figured if it could survive all that then it would be good enough to paint over. i used the rotary tool to get rid of any rust.. so far i've got 1 light coat of rustolum (spelling?) clean metal prime, it actually says it works on lightly rusted metal also.. they also sell a heavy rust primer.. reason i used primer was i wanted to try and keep the rust from coming back.. im gonna put a 2nd coat of primer then im gonna hit it with rustolum black hammered paint.. it looks to be a similar finish as what was originally applied.. so mine is still a work in progress hopping to have it done by next weekend it has taken A LOT OF TIME, especially dealing with the rust which was massive.. i wish i had taken before pictures. the paint stripper route works for a clean finish.. but i warn you get some heavy duty gloves because the stuff i got burned and numbed my hands even though medical examination gloves (my sister use to do home medical assistance) it works well but it is a dangerous chemical for sure. EDIT: fix a couple typo's, to much paint stripper i guess :P |
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