Author Topic: DK 3 to Donkey Kong conversion/resto FINISHED (Read 17062 times)

ZORK2 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 26, 2009, 11:56:23 am »

Yeah, I'm using a palm sander.... $:-\$
You are probably right, I think hand sanding is probably the better way to go at this point. I've come this far, I don't want to rush things now. I've just never had a material melt together like before? I'll report on round 3 of sanding.....HAND SANDING.....tonight

ZORK2 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 27, 2009, 09:02:11 pm »

Alright, got the last coat of Bin on last night. Tonight, I got it sanded down as smooth as a babies behind! I ended up using 220 grit with a sanding block, it didn't seem to clump as bad, but bad enough I wet sanded it. After the 220, I went 400 grit, then some 000 steel wool for the final sand. It turned out pretty good I think. Here is it the cab after the final sand....

ZORK2 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 27, 2009, 09:08:30 pm »

After a quick wipe down and some taping, it was ready for DONKEY KONG BLUE!! I ended up using the recipe someone posted on here, for the Sherwin Williams Semi Gloss Latex. I must say it went on VERY NICE!! You could definatley tell it was a high quality paint. I figured it would be worth the couple extra bucks to have a good quality paint on it. Anyway these two pics were taken about two hours ago! She is sitting in my garage drying as I type! Man it was nice to see that thing look that good again!!

I think I'm going to go back out to the garage and sit and stare at it for a while!!

ZORK2 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 27, 2009, 09:47:39 pm »

QUICK QUESTION FOR SOMEONE!!
While I was "staring at it" I noticed something.....
What color is supposed to be on the INSIDE of the speaker holes? Looks like they were black?? Is that right? Or are they supposed to be blue? Anyone know?

Mauzy · « **Reply #44 on:** August 27, 2009, 11:13:36 pm »

Quote from: ZORK2 on August 27, 2009, 09:47:39 pm

Looks like they were black?? Is that right?

Yup!

Looks good!

javeryh · « **Reply #45 on:** August 28, 2009, 12:16:22 am »

Mine is actually bare wood - I just assumed this is how they were originally until someone painted it or something. I just left the wood but now I'm thinking I might need to get some black paint in there...

ZORK2 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 28, 2009, 06:48:41 pm »

Hey guys, got a quick question for ANYONE out there.......
It was a rainy night here so I wasn't able to get any work on the cabinate done. I kept the cab in the garage tonight and decided I'd swap out the boards. Doesn't seem TOO hard, but I have a question as to how the wiring is.
First off I'm not sure what they call the set up on this style board. Both the old DK3 and the new DK are both the 2 board configuration.
I'm not 100% what they call the set up of the way it is wired, but I believe it is the "PAK" style. Ie, the main "jamma type" harness is being used.
On DK 3 the 2 boards were connected in the back by 2 harness' P1 & P2
On the front they were connected by P4 and P12
Then simply the main "jamma type" harness just plugged in!!
End of story.
My new DK board came with NO WIRING, except, P1 and P2 harness' in the back.
So I robbed the P4 and P12 harness and connected the DK board the same excact way!
Then simply plugged in the main Jamma type haness!!!
IS THAT IT!??! Am I missing any wiring? Do the boards connect in any other way? Should I have connected P4 and P12??
Can someone PLEASE check their machine! I want to make sure 100% that this is correct before I fire it up!!
A freinds game uses all the other plugs and could confirm that this was correct!
THANKS!!!

ZORK2 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 29, 2009, 12:31:21 pm »

Anyone know the answer to my last post about the board question??

Just got done capping the monitor! I'm hoping that'll fix the monitor issue it was having!!

The weather has cleared up nicely out, so I'm hoping to get round 2 of my painting done. I got the inside of the cabinate painted a nice flat black last night too, it looks really good.

With a little bit of luck I may actually get to fire it up tonight?!?!

Mauzy · « **Reply #48 on:** August 29, 2009, 07:34:36 pm »

To me, your wiring within the boards sounds fine. If I were you, I would check the wiring with a PDF file of the original manual which can be found here:
http://www.basementarcade.com/arcade/library/manuals/d/dktkg4up.pdf

ZORK2 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 29, 2009, 08:56:04 pm »

Yeah I gotta figure my wiring is fine? I don't think it can go any other way? The manual looks like the standard set up, not the "Nintendo PAK" configuration.
I'm going to try and run down today's accomplishments........

ZORK2 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 29, 2009, 09:02:30 pm »

The first big thing today was the cap kit!!
The Cap kit came with a total of 16 new caps. I think my total time was about three hours? About a half hour pulling the board out of the monitor, a good HOUR cleaning the stupid thing, and an hour to re-cap it, and about 10 minutes to put it back in. I must say, it was pretty easy, just a little labor intensive. And that monitor was SUPER DIRTY!! That was just about the toughest thing, CLEANING IT!! I did notice one of the caps was in bad shape, when I pulled it out, one of the legs was rusted and just fell off!! The bottom of the cap looked very corroded too? Anyway here are some pics of the process......

ZORK2 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 29, 2009, 09:10:25 pm »

As you can see in these shots, this thing was FILTHY!!!

ZORK2 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 29, 2009, 09:13:06 pm »

A couple hours later, all cleaned up and ready to go!! I just PRAY that the cap kit kit fixed my problems!! If not I'll cross that bridge when I get to it!

MaximRecoil · « **Reply #53 on:** August 29, 2009, 09:46:08 pm »

About the joystick; the one that comes with Mike's replacement control panel is based on a Happ Super I believe, and has no physical 4-way restrictor. If you want to keep that joystick, you might want to at least get a 4-way restrictor for it from GroovyGameGear.com for $5 (link).

The Happ Super is marketed as having a 4-way mode, but it is not a physically restricted 4-way mode like a real Donkey Kong or Pac-Man or other original 4-way joysticks had; but rather, it just has a smaller actuator which prevents it from tripping two switches at once in the diagonals. The restrictor from GGG solves that problem.

An even better option in my opinion is to simply buy a new shaft from Mike's Arcade for your existing Nintendo joystick for $16 (link). The joystick that you currently have as shown in the earlier pictures of your cabinet is a a short Nintendo joystick (for metal control panels) and it should have a 4-way restrictor if the stick is the original and the restrictor isn't missing (this is the same as a Punch-Out joystick BTW; add an 8-way restrictor and it is the same as a VS. or PC-10 joystick).

In any event, all you need to convert it to a proper Donkey Kong joystick is that replacement shaft which will turn it into a tall Nintendo joystick for wood CP mounting.

If you go that route, when you take your existing Nintendo joystick apart to swap the shaft, make sure to clean it thoroughly, paying particular attention to the steel ball and socket in the base that the shaft pivots on. Do whatever you can to get that ball and socket as clean as possible. I usually spray some degreaser in there and let it soak for a while, then get down into the socket with a toothbrush and pipe cleaner. It will take a while if your stick is like most of them; having about 25 years worth of grease and crud in there.

Once you get it as clean as possible, lubricate the ball and socket with something light (I use silicone spray). Heavier lubrication like grease makes the stick feel sluggish when returning to center in my experience. After that it should feel about like a new joystick.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #54 on:** August 29, 2009, 09:48:37 pm »

Another major project I got done today was taking the wire wheel to all the metal parts! One of my least favorite things to do when restoring a game! Loud, messy, and depending on where the little pieces of the wire wheel fly when they break off, painful!! Anyway for thos wanting to see what I can do with the coin door, this is a start.....
It was rough, and took a little pounding and bending to get it back square......

ZORK2 · « **Reply #55 on:** August 29, 2009, 10:48:52 pm »

Ok for 5$ you convinced me to get one of those restrictor plates!

Hope if gives it a close to authentic feel.

Anyway, a big part of the day was spend TAPING off stuff! I wanted to different black colors on the game. The back, stand, and entire interior of the cab I wanted a flat black. Mostly because I didn't want any glare from the monitor reflection off the walls inside the cabinate. I ended up using a Sherwin Williams latexm it is called "black magic". It turned out really nice. For the black around the CP and down the sides, I wanted something a bit shineyer, and also I wanted to spray it on so it would look more even. I ended up using Valspar Black Satin......
Here are the shots from the paint booth

ZORK2 · « **Reply #56 on:** August 29, 2009, 10:58:44 pm »

I think the 2 different black colors can be seen in these?!?

ZORK2 · « **Reply #57 on:** August 29, 2009, 11:04:28 pm »

And one more coat of DK blue! It's really starting to come together!
Just put the bondo on the coin door for the night. It took quite a bit to fill all the dings, but I think it is going to work!
This is it for the night.....enjoy.....

SirPeale · « **Reply #58 on:** August 30, 2009, 06:11:29 am »

If you want an easier time with the wire wheel, see my thread on electrolysis in Arcade Misc.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 30, 2009, 08:40:24 pm »

I had a fairly productive day today, I got a late start on account of picking up a really nice looking Cenipede for $60!! (MORE ON THIS ONE LATER!!)
So it was after 1:00pm by the time I got going today.
First off, I sanded down the bondo on the coin door. I think it is going to work nicely. I put a second batch of bondo on it after the second pic was taken in order to build it up a bit better. It still had come low spots, here is the progress.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #60 on:** August 30, 2009, 08:52:31 pm »

After that, I did a little touch up work on the front where the blue and black meet, I had a bit of an issue with the colors bleeding though the tape, despite my best efforts to prevent it from happening. Fixed it with touch up paint and a little brush, it looked turned out nice.

After that I put the coinbox back in, it took a bit of engineering to get it back in. The holes it screwed into were completley wallowed out. I ended up screwing 2 pieces of wood to the bottom of the box that acted as a lift to get it where it needed to be, then I wood glued the heck out of it. It won't be going anywhere soon.

The I put the power block back in, got all the wires run, and got everything plugged back in!! Even got the speaker grill and screen painted black and put back on!

Next I plugged the monitor back in, turned the game on and........

ARRRRRGGGG!!! STILL HAS A MONITOR PROBLEM!!!
I started a thread on the monitor page, detailing what is going on with it, if anyone thinks they can help!!
But I DID GET TO HEAR THE SWEET SOUND OF DONKEY KONG!! The board seems to be working like a charm!!

ZORK2 · « **Reply #61 on:** August 30, 2009, 08:54:35 pm »

This suck is so clean inside you could EAT OUT OF IT!

Maybe not, but sure does look nice in there huh!?!

SirPeale · « **Reply #62 on:** August 30, 2009, 08:55:45 pm »

It's hard to tell in that picture, but that doesn't look like a monitor issue. Looks like a PCB issue. I'd have to see a better picture to be 100%.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #63 on:** August 30, 2009, 09:33:48 pm »

Never say never, but the board was sold as tested and working?
I guess before I do a whole heck of a lot more to the monitor I can try to throw DK3 back in and see what happens?

It was REALLY hard trying to get a pic of what was going on with the monitor. It was like you could adjust it, ALMOST, but then it was wavey and jumpy, picture wasn't overly bright either??

Pretty sure that it is the monitor, not the board??!?!

I'm hoping the folks over on the monitor link can help!!!

Spyridon · « **Reply #64 on:** August 31, 2009, 02:11:41 pm »

Quote from: ZORK2 on August 30, 2009, 09:33:48 pm

I guess before I do a whole heck of a lot more to the monitor I can try to throw DK3 back in and see what happens?

If you've got a different board you can use to test, go ahead and do that. You might as well determine if it is a board or monitor problem before you get too far into working on the monitor.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #65 on:** August 31, 2009, 05:58:45 pm »

UHG! I just put the DK3 board in, WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!! There is a slight "wave" to the picture that I could not adjust out of it. Also the picture doesn't look overly crisp, and isn't as bright as it should be? Thoughts on that?

So my Donkey Kong board looks like its messed up!!! GREAT! I'm sure the dude will say it was damaged in shipping, his packing job wasn't the best.
UHG, so where do I begin with THAT thing?! Anyone have any thoughts as to what would cause a bad picture on one of those boards?? Does anyone sell a board repar kit of any kind? I don't recall seeing one anywhere.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #66 on:** August 31, 2009, 07:07:08 pm »

Sigh

I guess this answers the question if its the board or the monitor.

Here are a couple pics. I'm really hoping that someone out there has seen a DK PCB do this before and can point me in the right direction. The picture on the monitor is NOT as blurry as these pictures make it seem. That is my crappy camera. The main thing is the left side of the picture trails off the bottom of the screen? Also the picture is generally jittery. Anyone know where to start? I gave the boards a quick visual inspection, that revealed nothing.

On to the monitor, with DK3 in there, the picture has a slight "wave" to it. Also when the sound pot is turned up, the screen kind of "pulses" to the beat of the sounds, when it get loud. Any thoughts as to what that could be? A sound board kit?

Well here are pics, again, they are not as blurry as these make it seem, but you can see how the picture trails off on the left side....

IG-88 · « **Reply #67 on:** August 31, 2009, 08:20:48 pm »

No help on the monitor/board but the sound thing, maybe the speaker is un-shielded? Try slipping a sheet of metal in between the speaker and monitor to see if that if that makes a difference

Also I was wondering if you could take a picture of the inside of your cab for me. Try it from the standing position, right in front looking down into it. I just got me one of these cabs myself and I think it's missing some wood mounting pieces inside of it for the monitor. Pretty please

.

SirPeale · « **Reply #68 on:** August 31, 2009, 08:30:49 pm »

Have you tried adjusting the horizontal or vertical syncs yet?

ZORK2 · « **Reply #69 on:** August 31, 2009, 08:51:20 pm »

IG-88,
There are a few pics of the inside of the cab on this thread, any of those shots work for you? I think my last post from yesterday has just that shot? If not, let me know, I'll get you anything you need.
You think the speaker being unsheilded is messing with the monitor? Hmmm, I'll give that a try....

SirPeale,
I adjusted EVERY pot, in every possible combination. Are you talking to fix the waves? Or to try and get DK to come in?

IG-88 · « **Reply #70 on:** September 01, 2009, 08:09:18 am »

That last pic from yesterday is from the backside right? Can you do one from about that distance but from the front too? Also get one from the marquee retaining area/top half of the cab. I think mine is pieces missing from that area too now that I think of it....

ZORK2 · « **Reply #71 on:** September 01, 2009, 11:18:28 am »

Yep, I'll try to post them tonight......

Mauzy · « **Reply #72 on:** September 01, 2009, 05:01:11 pm »

Quote from: ZORK2 on August 31, 2009, 08:51:20 pm

SirPeale,
I adjusted EVERY pot, in every possible combination. Are you talking to fix the waves? Or to try and get DK to come in?

Just to make sure, in messing with every pot, did you try the pots on the DK board itself?

ZORK2 · « **Reply #73 on:** September 01, 2009, 09:29:59 pm »

Yep, I sure did. I found one website that said a screen roll could be a sign that one of those pots either being bad?
At any rate if I can't figure it out, the dude I bought it from said he would fix it free of charge, I just have to send it back......
IG-88, I had house hold stuff I had to do tonight, I wasn't able to get any thing done on the games, I will tomorrow.....

ZORK2 · « **Reply #74 on:** September 02, 2009, 10:03:09 pm »

Pics for IG 88.
Worked some more on a few components on the monitor, trying to get rid of that wave..... No luck.....

I ordered the delux cap kit from Bob Roberts, that has a bunch more cap that didn't come in the regular version.
I'll have to see if that does the trick.....

IG-88 · « **Reply #75 on:** September 03, 2009, 08:05:48 am »

Your the bomb man, thank you very much!

ZORK2 · « **Reply #76 on:** September 12, 2009, 12:05:04 pm »

Can someone with a DK do me a favor?
I need the measurements for the location to place the .25$ sticker just below the control panel??
I also need the location of the instuctional decal that goes on the wood just below the bezel. I know it goes on the left hand side somewhere?? Just not sure how far over.....

ZORK2 · « **Reply #77 on:** September 12, 2009, 06:50:25 pm »

ARG!! The stupid monitor has been KILLING ME!! I about took a sledge hammer to the whole thing!

I scoured the thing again and again, after about the 10th time, I noticed the biggest chip on the board had a very slight crack in it. But have gotten damaged in my caping process!?!

I THOUGHT I was very gently with it. Just looking at the board that IC 401 seems to sit just about where the flex point is? So any way after a LOT of looking I finally asked Bob Roberts if he had a spare on and old board. TG HE DID!! So, one is on the way!! FYI anyone looking for IC 401 on a Sanyo EZV LA1464, check with Bob.....

Here is the coin door, DONE!! It was the second most labor insensive thing on the entire game!! I think it turned out GREAT! After about 6 bondo/sanding sessions, I was satisfied, primered it, then painted it with a hammered finish, then topped it off with a satin finish.....

To all those who thought it not possible!!!! Here ya go......

Mauzy · « **Reply #78 on:** September 12, 2009, 07:30:00 pm »

That coin door looks fantastic! That was the worst job that had to be done on mine. I painted and then restripped my coin door three or four times before I was satisfied. The cabinet was finished and put in the row for two or three weeks before the coin door was finished.

ZORK2 · « **Reply #79 on:** September 13, 2009, 01:24:08 am »

THANKS!

I got in a bit of a hurry today on part of it. Had to do some resanding. I think it turned out nice though. Heck, someone took a hammer to it! The whole middle was caved in, you can see it in my earlier pics. It took a lot of bondo and a lot of time, but it turned out nice. I spent a couple hours today throwing Quarters through the mechanisms getting them to work right. I was happy, one worked, then I tried to get the other one to match, it took a lot of tweeking, but I finally got it.

Mauzy sorry, I've been busy last week w the holiday, I'll get that DK3 plate out to you this week. It has a nasty scar on it, but I think it gives it character! I have a couple other gems I'll send with it too......

a tag on my coin door that says DK6887


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Author Topic: DK 3 to Donkey Kong conversion/resto *FINISHED* (Read 17062 times)

Author Topic: DK 3 to Donkey Kong conversion/resto FINISHED (Read 17062 times)