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First build! 4P MAME *now with pics!*
ammitz:
--- Quote from: jeef on August 19, 2009, 09:46:11 pm ---It's pretty simple to convert an existing cab into a 4p cab: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94966.0
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Thank you for bringing my attention to this thread. Very humerous and sad at the same time
Jefferson:
Nevermind that stuff about Molex connectors^. I've firmly decided I'm going MAME so the IPac4 will serve as my quick-disconnect. Anyhow, I got myself a jigsaw and router and made some CP progress this weekend...
Mocking up the controls with some helpful printouts from slagcoin.com (I ended up going with the US SFII layout over the ergo). This CP top isn't much bigger than the orig TMNT one, so im trying to keep the buttons and joys 'in bounds' of the CP box. Its re-spaced to give P1 and P2 some shoulder room without cramping the already-cramped 3+4.
Test piece. Pleased to see the buttons still fit the chubby CP (securely too)...
...But not pleased to discover this isn't a solid piece of wood. The top and bottom are 1/8" thick (thin), and there are 3 columns of reinforcement running thru it, and plenty of cardboard webbing. More on that later.
I had to route the bottom of the monitor side edge in an inch^, to allow the CP to be pushed flush to the monitor glass. The orig CP's monitor edge was cut inward at an angle. Here it is nice and flush, allowing me to doublecheck my button/joy placement (P4's buttons did need to be adjusted so I'm glad I checked...)
Next I drilled some pilot holes. I had already discovered how easy it is to make the straight SF buttons look sloppy on a test piece...
Forstner bit time... here you can see how thin the shell of the CP is. I even drilled through some of the reinforcements. I know anyone could easily break it by sitting or putting an elbow through it, but surprisingly it feels solid enough to manhandle during cuts and clamping etc.
Button holes drilled, picked out the frayed cardboard guts, vacuumed out the holes... Not perfect, but I'm pretty pleased with the button alignment.
Womp womp, damage on the backside. For the first few holes I went straight through top to bottom levels (these are those holes.) For most of it afterward I only did tops, cleaned it out, then did bottoms directly onto a chunk of 2x4 so I could really press. That being said, the buttons screw on just fine and don't wobble. Should I worry bout this? No? Okay.
Here it is placed onto the cab...
You'll note there's a lot of luxurious palm space. Luckily this is one of the parts of the CP that is solid wood. Lord knows the 1/8" would not be able to hold the piano hinge, and would def not be able to sustain the CP weight when its flipped up. So I got lucky there.
I'm thinking I'll add 4 player-colored start buttons and 3 black buttons (Play/Pause/Exit) to the top center, but my biggest things are, how do I reinforce this thing? do I just glue in little rectangles of wood between controls? Expanding foam adhesive like Great Stuff? Will the mere presence of all these buttons reinforce the wood at all? And how am I gonna mount my Happ Competition joys? 1/8" is surely way too thin and may flex and break. The orig CP was routed down to 3/8", I assume I'd just glue in a 3.5x3.5 piece of 1/4" pad? That would also reinforce it too, right? Is there a way to do it without showing bolts on top of the CP? Either way I'm looking at routing out the bottom of the CP and that may weaken the whole. But I'm determined to find a way to make it work.
Turnarcades:
Shame about the material consistency, but the chunky look and the way it conveniently wraps around the side a little makes it look good. If you want to add a little strength to the unit, Get some expanding insulation foam and spray it into the holes once your controls are fitted - this will fill the air space and add some pressure resistance to the surface.
Epyx:
--- Quote ---but my biggest things are, how do I reinforce this thing? do I just glue in little rectangles of wood between controls? Expanding foam adhesive like Great Stuff? Will the mere presence of all these buttons reinforce the wood at all? And how am I gonna mount my Happ Competition joys? 1/8" is surely way too thin and may flex and break. The orig CP was routed down to 3/8", I assume I'd just glue in a 3.5x3.5 piece of 1/4" pad? That would also reinforce it too, right? Is there a way to do it without showing bolts on top of the CP? Either way I'm looking at routing out the bottom of the CP and that may weaken the whole. But I'm determined to find a way to make it work.
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Honestly, at this point...I would scrap this piece...go to Home Depot or said lumber store and buy yourself a proper piece of MDF 5/8" (plexi/laminate added after) or 3/4" (Painted after). You can get a 24" x 48" piece for $10 or even an offcut if you are lucky in the offcut bin. I honestly wouldn't keep this piece. Look at all the questions raised that would be solved for $10. Ditch it...start again and save yourself the headache...the design is nice the material sucks (which isn't your doing) :(
Gamester:
I agree with Epyx. Do it right from the beginning and then never have to worry about it again.
The nice thing is, since you already have a template, it would be fairly quick work with a router to transfer the shape onto a new piece of material. And once you match the outside shape, you can use the existing button holes as a template for re-drilling them on the new piece.