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New Cabinet Build - CandyCab FOBT conversion
CandyCabs:
Most Candys tend to have slimmer control panels than the larger wooden JAMMA cabs. Personally, I like this as it makes the cabinets smaller and easier to fit into a domestic environment. I've done conversions on Golden Tee JAMMA cabs too - and they have loads of room for joysticks, spinners & trackballs - but you pay the price of having a much larger machine taking up space in your games room.
I'm not sure I understand the question on the angle of the button layout. If you mean the curve on the layout of the six buttons - I simply placed my hand on the blank for the control panel (having already mounted the joysticks) and marked the positions where my fingers were most comfortable. This formed a shalow arc for the top row of buttons and I mirrored this for the bottom row. It feels comfortable to me, and I used the same layout on the 60+ other CandyCabs we've made without complaints so I guess it must work.
The difference with this machine is that I had to squeeze in a trackball too. The positions of the P1 & P2 buttons were moved by 2mm (away from the center) to make room underneath for the mounting points - but I kept the arc the same.
In everyday use the trackball is fine - even with its close proximity to the P1 buttons and the P2 joystick. I agree that compared with a dedicated machine the position is quite cramped. You are right that with Golden Tee in particular the payer can end up whacking the P2 joystick on agressive shots. IMO Golden Tee is best played with the larger 3.5" trackball anyway.
I tend to use the trackball to play Centipede and Missile Command most of the time :)
I've attached a couple of control panel photos to give a better view of the button layout.
CandyCabs:
Back to the main thread on the build-up of this machine.
I wanted to achieve a special finish to the bodywork on this project, and I chose to use Candy paint. This type of finish requires multiple layers to achieve the desired effect. The end result is amazing though – a kind of semi-transparent blue with a real depth to it.
The basic steps are as follows:-
1st prep the plastic bodywork. This involves stripping everything down. Removing the locks and any other metalwork. Thorough cleaning (these machines have been in bookies for years and they smell of cigarette smoke before they are cleaned). I have tried everything from washing up liquid through to commercial plastic cleaner but I find the best results come from using plain old “Cillit Bang” http://www.cillitbang.co.uk/ to get the dirt off.
Once the bodywork is clean I use car body filler and sandpaper to remove any deep scratches or dinks. When that is done I go over everything with 600 grit wet and dry to provide a key for the paint.
When spraying plastic it’s very important to use a good quality plastic primer or adhesion promoter. This will key into the plastic and allow the paint to stick. Without it the whole paintjob could peel off! To make spraying these machines easier I made a CandyCab spraying rig. This is simply a heavy duty engine stand with a custom made plate – onto which the CandyCab chassis is screwed using the existing holes provided for the castors and levelling legs. It works really well and allows me to rotate the chassis while I spray without touching the bodywork.
Once the primer is dry, a quick rub down with 1500 grit wet and dry and you’re ready for the silver basecoat. I usually spray 3 layers of silver to get a good depth of coverage. Any silver will do – but try to get the most “sparkly” for best results.
After the silver comes another rubdown with 1500 grit wet and dry, and then it’s on to the complicated bit . Now I’ve been spraying paint for 20 years, starting on cars and motorbikes and moving onto arcade machines in recent years. I thought I was pretty good at it until I came across Candy paint! This stuff is a nightmare to get right on a 3D object. Doing a single flat panel would be easy, but with the multiple curved surfaces on a CandyCab getting equal coverage on all surfaces is not easy.
The blue candy concentrate is mixed with 2K lacquer then sprayed in very light coats to build up the desired colour. I estimate it took around 15 coats to get the right depth of blue and still have the silver showing through.
Once I was happy(ish) with the blue the whole job was sealed with 5 coats of high quality clear lacquer to provide a hardwearing finish. A lot of work – but a great result.
Franco B:
Thanks for the painting info.
I need to get one of my Naomi Net Citys painted soon. I was thinking either satin black or candy black with metal flake to complement my artwork. I was contemplating doing it myself with pre-mixed rattle cans but I wasn't sure how well I would be able to do it, I'm even less confident now after reading your post.
I was also thinking about getting it professionally painted. Is this something you would be able/willing to do? The Naomis are mainly flat angles apart form the CP housing.
CandyCabs:
I think satin black could look a little strange. I did a JAMMA cab satin black for a customer a few years ago - didn't turn out as good as we'd all expected. Somehow it didn't look finished...
Candy black with metal flake is serious bling! I love to use metal flake on my control panels to make them that little but special. I did a black Candy quite recently for a customer - and he wanted red illuminated buttons too, but I talked him out of it!
Happy to help with the painting - are you in the UK?
Mike.
saleem:
sorry but,i just dont like it,all plastic moulded.trying to be modern and stylish while being (well) just plastic.they aint nearly as good looking as most standup wooden or mdf cabinets.and i seriusly doubt they are as robust as wooden or mdf one.
when i look at it,i am trying to like it and there is something saying i just dont like it cos its all moulded,theres no craftmanship in it away from a spray job and a cp,all the works done with machines,and its just pressed plastic.
:dunno
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