Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: My experience building my cab...  (Read 2829 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

SirPoonga

  • Puck'em Up
  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8183
  • Last login:April 12, 2023, 09:22:35 pm
  • The Bears Still Suck!
My experience building my cab...
« on: February 25, 2002, 09:38:16 pm »
Hello ya'll.  going to start this board off with a real topic!!!

reply with tidbits to help others with planning their cabinet.

I started from scratch.

First, I use 3/4" MDF.  The stuff rules if you work carefully with it.
Do a couple coats of paint.  Sand in between each.

TEST before doing something to the real thing, or wood putty will become your friend:)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

jelloslug

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 125
  • Last login:May 25, 2005, 03:55:59 pm
  • Splut!
    • Jelloslugs Arcade
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2002, 12:38:18 pm »
I love the stuff.  Just gotta make sure not to try to put screws in the sides.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

SirPoonga

  • Puck'em Up
  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8183
  • Last login:April 12, 2023, 09:22:35 pm
  • The Bears Still Suck!
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2002, 01:24:27 pm »
post whore, I want the most posts!! ;D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

jelloslug

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 125
  • Last login:May 25, 2005, 03:55:59 pm
  • Splut!
    • Jelloslugs Arcade
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2002, 02:13:26 pm »
Ahh... testing the auto censoring features of the board out I see.

ArcadeFX

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 188
  • Last login:November 10, 2004, 11:16:56 pm
  • All the Dude ever wanted was his rug back!
    • ArcadeFX
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2002, 05:52:03 pm »
Screws in the sides are no problem if you predrill your holes.

« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

SirPoonga

  • Puck'em Up
  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8183
  • Last login:April 12, 2023, 09:22:35 pm
  • The Bears Still Suck!
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2002, 05:53:34 pm »
Yes, predrill when you can.  Makes it easier.

Also, don't drop it on your foot.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

RandyT

  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6890
  • Last login:Yesterday at 08:20:02 pm
  • Friends don't let friends hack keyboards.
    • GroovyGameGear.com
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2002, 07:31:10 pm »

Also, make sure you get the right screws.  They make special ones for particle based boards.  They look like drywall screws, but they are not!  These have wider and more horizontal threads.

And stay away from the corners.  The closer to the corner, the more likely a split.

RandyT
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

Howard_Casto

  • Idiot Police
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19400
  • Last login:April 21, 2024, 11:59:54 pm
  • Your Post's Soul is MINE!!! .......Again??
    • The Dragon King
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2002, 04:40:35 pm »
Quote
Posted by: SirPoonga Posted on: Feb 26th, 2002, 4:24pm

post <auto-censored>, I want the most posts!!
 
Posted by: jelloslug Posted on: Feb 26th, 2002, 5:13pm

Ahh... testing the auto censoring features of the board out I see.  


Wow! that's ---smurfing--- awesome!  Let me try....  
:D

(As quoted from the Misfits song.)

I ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- here, I ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- there, I ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- every ---smurfing--- where so what? So What? So what, so what , you boring little ---fudgesicle---!!

te he  hopefully my virgin ears won't be violated anymore

;)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

mw

  • Guest
  • Trade Count: (0)
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2002, 02:55:07 pm »
Why 3/4" ?

I used 1/2" MDF for my controls and it works great, didn't need to route out for the controls or anything.

I plan on using 1/2" for the cabinet with 1x2's for screwing, it's cheaper and lighter.  Does anyone see a problem with this or should I just go with 3/4" ?


Got controls now I have to have the cabinet !
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »

ddebuss

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 55
  • Last login:January 20, 2015, 07:48:10 am
  • Stuck in the 80's
Re: My experience building my cab...
« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2002, 03:51:19 pm »
I've used 1/2" before.  It's a little thin, but you do not have to route for trackballs and for joysticks it let's it sit a little higher in the control panel.

To make the edges a little thicker and a little stronger you can glue another strip of particle board along the edges. After the glue dries you can route a slot for the T-molding.  You will need to either a 1/4" strip to make it 3/4" total or to use a 1" T-molding.

To do this you glue a strip along the exposed edge(s) where the T-molding is to be installed.  Make sure the glue is full coverage, spread evenly, not too thick.  Clamp or screw (not too close to the edge.)  When it dries you can re-shape the board and route it.  It's just like working with a 1" particle board.

I've used some 1/2" cabinet grade plywood for some other projects and I am contemplating using the same process for my next control panel.  It's a lot stronger, flexible, and stable.  Also stains well... A little curious how it will route for T-molding slot after the edges are doubled up though.  My local Lowes just started selling it.  The sell it in full or partial sheets for a decent price.  Much better price ($30 for 4x8 sheet) than the Oak and Birch plywook commonly used.
;D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 pm by 1026619200 »