Turning a X-men cab -> custom 1942 style cab

[Vebbo]

Some years ago I bought a X-Men 4 player cabinet, the monitor had burned in "Game Over" kinda amusing I'm gonna replace that monitor with a LCD "26 or "24 (have to check my budget).

Today i'm planning on building a new CP, 2-player with spinner (Spintrack from Ultimarc), a 3" trackball http://tiny.cc/HyYls with mounting kit http://tiny.cc/BGzPn and a dedicated 4 way http://tiny.cc/jYBqG from ebay. I also bought 2 happ 360's some years ago so they will be used in this CP-project. I will be using a i-pac (not the new one with 32 inputs)  witch I also bought some years ago.

To do this i need some tools.

Have:

Jigsaw
Drill
Circular saw
Electric sander

Missing, must buy (please click the links to see):

Router - will this do the job? http://www.biltema.no/products/product.asp?iItemId=145446 its about $60

Slot cutter bit for t-mold - http://www.clasohlson.no/Product/Product.aspx?id=55662661 its about $63

Bits for the router: 1: http://www.clasohlson.no/Product/Product.aspx?id=56909696 its about $27 or 2: http://www.clasohlson.no/Product/Product.aspx?id=57721527 its about $112 - witch one to opt for?

Work table - will this do the job? http://www.biltema.no/products/product.asp?iItemId=155157 its about $144

I have also made a design for the CP and i wonder if anyone have some tips to improve it (click on image to enlarge):




Vebbo

[Vebbo]

Well no tips for the tools hehe okey i bought the router but have not bought any bits yet. Heres an updated layout for the cp, do you think this layout will work?

[javeryh]

I wouldn't place your P1 and P2 buttons like that.  Two rows of three - you have the room even if it might be tight.  Also, what are those 3 buttons above the trackball for?  If they are just mouse buttons I'd get rid of them and map them to the P1 or P2 buttons.  Finally, I'd place 3 buttons in a row for your admins instead of making a triangular shape.  I'd actually think about removing them from the CP if you could - do you have room underneath the monitor or something?  The less clutter the better, IMO.  Let's see some pics of the cab!   

Oh yeah, a slot cutting bit for a router should be about $20.  I wouldn't buy full sets of bits if you are just going to be building an arcade.  I'd start off with the ones you need and then if you want to build other things like furniture or whatever you can expand.  No need to spend all that money now...   

[severdhed]

i agreey with javeryh, two rows of 3 buttons is way better than 3 rows of 2.  it would be impossible to play  a game like street fighter like that. 

i'd also lose the 3 mouse buttons above the trackball, you can easily make your player 1, buttons 4,5,6  be mouse buttons.  they way they serve a dual purpose and it removes clutter from the panel.  not to mention that right above the trackball is a rather awkward position to try to use the buttons while your other hand is on the trackball. 

also, based on personal experience, you should try to keep all admin buttons away from player 2....because no matter what, if a button is there, even if it is labeled, it will get pressed accidentally from some overly enthusiastic guests.  pause can be OK, but i'd keep other admin away from them.  especially the Esc/Exit button. 

personaly, i dont like any admin buttons on my panel, other than pause and exit. everythign else can be done via shifted commands, or hidden admin buttons.

if you are looking at trackballs, the ultimarc U-Trak is awesome for wooden panels.  they mount in there beautifully and easily, without mounting plates.  even without good woodworking skills, i managed to mount mine and have it turn out looking pretty good.

[Vebbo]

Ahh some input, i just love this forum 

Yes javeryh u are absolutely right i totally forgot that i have 4 buttons (originally for selecting player) underneath the monitor i can use them for admin buttons  or will they also accidentally be pushed? 

That 2 player stick will get really close to the trackball but i guess as both u and severdhed said that its better with 2 rows of 3 buttons. I did the layout at work today so i will continue on it tomorrow. Do u think it will cause some problems when the 2-player stick get so close when playing Crystal Castles or Marble madness? I will for sure make a test cp of some crapwood i have to test it tho.

So u wanna see some pics  , i think i have some on my server if i don't find them there I'll take some new so stay tuned.

Really nice CP u got there severdhed, i can't wait til i get mine finished  I discovered the U-Trak a bit late, had already ordered the happ trackball but i will definitely consider it for my next CP build, thanks for the tip.

One thing that puzzles me is that the router i bought has collets of either 6 mm = approximately 1/4" or 8 mm = approximately 5/16" (its all metric here in Norway  ) is that a problem if i buy the bits from amazon? Since i'm a n00b at this could u post a link to the right bit? Would u also use a router bit to make the button holes? If u have a link here too i would be really greatfull 

PS. i now have all the parts so i just need those bits  ...... Spider bit, spider bit, tamta-tam-ta-tarattata 

FYI I'm going to use 16 mm = approximately 5/8" MDF for this build 

Vebbo

[severdhed]

i dont know what is available in norway..around here (USA) most router bits are designed with either a 1/4" or 1/2" shaft.  I'd hate to link you the wrong thing.  i bought a cheap trim router for $25, that used 1/4" shaft router bits. 


dont forget that when planning your control panel, you need to leave room below the panel for the joystick switches and wires that will attach to them.  on earlier panels, i had my p1 joystick 3" in from the left edge of the panel.  but there was a 1/2" overhang on the top, then the 3/4" thickness of the wood of the box below...the stick fit in just fine, but once i installed the wires onto the switches, it wouldn't fit anymore and i had to route out a small area on the inside left wall of the control panel box in order for the wires to have room.  this could also be a problem if your stick is too close to the trackball.  when i built my last panel, i still put the sticks 3 inches in from the left edge, but since i am using Ultrastik 360s, that dont' have switches..everything fit just fine.

[brock.sampson]

I would be careful mounting joysticks or spinners above the trackball.  I have my spinner above my trackball and I usually hit it when I'm playing a good game of golden tee or world class bowling.

[Vebbo]

Some update, ordered slot cutter bit from t-molding and made some adjustment to the CP. Removed some admin buttons, moved 4-way joystick to the left and the buttons two rows of 3... jeez that 2-player stick is now really close to the trackball, do u think it would get in the way since i'm right handed? Next step for me now is to build a test setup i think so i can get the feel of it.



ps. i have now surfed the web for a forstner bit to do the button holes (1 1/8 = 29 mm with a 8 mm shaft but i can't find one  ) Guess i have to use a spade bit then...

Vebbo

[severdhed]

that looks alot better.  I don't see how the spacing would be a problem between your joystick and trackball..as long as there is enough room for the wiring of your joystick.  it looks pretty close there, but you have to remember, that you are looking at the dimensions of the components in full.  the only part of the joystick that will be visible is the shaft, not the rectangular base. plus the image of the trackball mounting plate makes it seems closer than it is.  when it comes down to distance, you need to look at the distance between the joystick shaft and the actual ball.  they should be plenty far enough apart that they shouldn't interfere with each other.

i don't know what your measurements are, but on my panel, the center of the trackball hole is 6 inches from the center of the p2 joystick hole, and that works out perfectly

[Franco B]

ps. i have now surfed the web for a forstner bit to do the button holes (1 1/8 = 29 mm with a 8 mm shaft but i can't find one  ) Guess i have to use a spade bit then...

You DON'T want to use a forstner bit in a router if thats what you had planned. You need to use it in a drill or drill press. [This] is the 28mm forsnter bit I have. it has an approx 6mm hex AF shank that is designed for use with quick release collets but it works just as well in a normal drill chuck.

[Namco]

May I suggest first building a test control panel? Many have done it with scrap wood or cardboard. That way you can get the layout that you like best.

And for God's sake, please get a nice cordless drill before attempting anything.  . I'd hate for somebody to have to find out what happens when you run a forstner bit in a router. 

[Vebbo]

ps. i have now surfed the web for a forstner bit to do the button holes (1 1/8 = 29 mm with a 8 mm shaft but i can't find one  ) Guess i have to use a spade bit then...

You DON'T want to use a forstner bit in a router if thats what you had planned. You need to use it in a drill or drill press. [This] is the 28mm forsnter bit I have. it has an approx 6mm hex AF shank that is designed for use with quick release collets but it works just as well in a normal drill chuck.

Phew... thanks Franco for clearing that up I feel so stupid now 

May I suggest first building a test control panel? Many have done it with scrap wood or cardboard. That way you can get the layout that you like best.

And for God's sake, please get a nice cordless drill before attempting anything.  . I'd hate for somebody to have to find out what happens when you run a forstner bit in a router. 

That's exactly my plan, to build a test control panel 

And here some pics of the cabinet as it stands now. I have taken out the glass in front of the monitor but i have it. I really like the shape/design of this cabinet . I have not decided on what to do with the artwork yet so that's another challenge.

[Vebbo]

i don't know what your measurements are, but on my panel, the center of the trackball hole is 6 inches from the center of the p2 joystick hole, and that works out perfectly

Outer dimension for the CP is 26.66" x 18.7", Inside 24" x 14.9"

Have also moved the player 1 and 2 joystick and buttons further up to the monitor and now i have 6 inches from center trackball to center player 2 stick. Below is the final layout for the test build.

[severdhed]

looks pretty good.     the only thing i would be worried about is the spinner location....and that realy just depends on if you use your left hand for the spinner, or the right.

If you use your left hand for the spinner, you could remap those games to use player 2's buttons.  however if you use your right hand, the player 2 joystick may be in the way of your arm..depending on how you stand.    i guess that's why it is good to make a test panel.

on my friend's 4 player panel, his spinner is in a similar position (a little more to the left) and the joystick is right in the way of where i would like to have my arm.  His spinner is 6 inches back and 3 inches to the left of his p2 stick.     he is still using his mockup panel though, i'm sure it will get moved....it may even get removed entirely because we never use it. ( i think we played 2 or 3 games each of tempest and arkanoid when we first built it, and since then it hasn't been touched)

[Vebbo]

Hohoho, the forstner bit arrived from eBay today and I could not wait 

Quite messy when u drill those holes 



All holes drilled - Buttons, joysticks and spinner



Ready for some clean cuts with the router



Not bad for approx. 2 hours work is it? Hope i get more done this weekend. I also have to make a new basestand for the cabinet so maybe I'll start on that.

It really felt good to finally start doing some "hard" work 

Thanks for all input so far.

[Vebbo]

Not so much of an update but i finally got to unpack the router and discovered that there were missing some parts so i had to go back to the store and they gave me a new one.

Well in the meantime i got inspired from this marvelous centipede restorations thread (Very nice job u got there Spyridon) http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=87061.80

The carriage bolt i had bought also needed some work and i went from the original bolt to the left (experimenting with some dremel, those too in the middle and the power drill method to the right.



I really like the way that bolt looks (one on the right), almost like a brushed aluminum look, absolutely beautiful look and worth considering if u use bolts like this on your CP.

But upping the speed on the Skil drill and 400 grit paper gave me this



They are not perfect but they are keepers  Ma by I'll polish them, still have 8 more to go so I'll wait and see.

[severdhed]

those bolts look great. 

[Vebbo]

those bolts look great. 

Thanks 

Finally i got the router going and tataaaa flushmount trackballplate.



Not bad for a powertool rookie  got some putty work to do but not so bad for a first time. Also drilled holes for the bolts.

[Ond]

Great idea on the bolt heads! I actually de-rusted a few that way, just never took it to the next level like you have.  I'm like some kinda bird - shiny things attract me.

[Vebbo]

1942, yeah that game triggered me back in the good old days so as a tribute to the good old days i've been playing a little in photoshop. I just realize that i have to do the hole cab in that design but later, first now the CP.



Phew, this hobby is really timeconsuming 

[DaOld Man]

Looks like you are doing a good job there vebbomania.
I too like those bolt heads.. I was wondering if they will turn back to the galvanized look after some time? Or do you plan to coat them with some clear coat or anything?

[Vebbo]

Looks like you are doing a good job there vebbomania.
I too like those bolt heads.. I was wondering if they will turn back to the galvanized look after some time? Or do you plan to coat them with some clear coat or anything?

Thanks DaOld Man, its a bumpy ride but i enjoy it   

I really don't know, it says "forzinket" on the bolt package, don't really know if that word exist in English and i don't know how they will react over time, if they get darker or change in any way i can always give them a spin with the powerdrill again and try to coat them with clear coat.

I also manipulated the the overlay to fit the preassembled CP





I must admit that it look pretty OK already but I'm gonna tweak the graphics a little more, just to bad the weekend's soon over and now I'm gonna be busy with work for nearly 2 weeks 

I'm not sure if the buttoncolor is optimal either so I'm gonna try different setups.

Edit, added original image "as is"

[Vebbo]

Just a tiny update. Got 3 wico 4" balltops (2 light blue and one purple?) from ebay today and im gonna use this guide to dye them http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=53733.0

Well i'm not gonna dye before i've compared the balltops vs original



oh, and i also ordered this for my trackball today

[tib0lt]

I just have to say that i think your control panel setup is looking very clean already. where the graphic and the trackball are placed look very good together and im sure the led track ball will only add to the sweetness. nice job 

[Vebbo]

I just have to say that i think your control panel setup is looking very clean already. where the graphic and the trackball are placed look very good together and im sure the led track ball will only add to the sweetness. nice job 

Thanks tib0lt 

I have tweaked the gfx a little more and i think this new version looks better, it has a more "softer" look. I also removed the "1943" vektor graphics under player 2 and replaced it with a new one  The yellow line just mark the cut.

If u right click the image and choose show image u will get a larger and more detailed look.

The hangar ship under player 1 is from a picture of USS Nimitz and the mainplane under player 2 is a lockheed p-38 lightning

[Vebbo]

Finally got winxp installed on a PC i bought for $90 from a friend. Yes it took me almost a week to figure out how to get win xp installed so i thought there were some hardware error or something. What happened was that i always got the message "press any key to boot CD and the next message entered "Checking hardware config" and then everything turned black, with the CD spinning really fast for 10 more sec and then nada... had to reboot. Tried some different setups in BIOS but it was no go.

So i first changed the gfx card because at this point i thought that there had to be a hardware error, but no luck, same thing happened. Then checked the Ram, resetting cmos etc etc, tried everyting but could not get it going. Jeez whats up with this machine.  The disk I'm using is a 40GB IDE disk that i had grabbed from work and i tried to start it without the CD and then Fedora booted, aha Linux not my kind of thing but the machine was working (success) why wouldn't win xp install?

Asked google and found the solution so i downloaded ubuntu live CD and formatted the partitions with ntfs and voila winXP is now installed , didn't know that bootblocks could cause this, anyhow lesson learned.

I have also been very busy lately working 24/7 and a wife who have decided to do a makeover of both the kitchen and one of the living room we got, jihaaa  That means that there will be another setback for my project  Maby i get some spare time during the 2 weeks it is supposed to take from Monday to continue on setting up the computer (Trying Mala) and wire the cp and tweak a little here and there but i really don't know at this point, stay tuned.

[Vebbo]

Well im back on the cabinet track . It's been over a year ago since i stopped working on my project...

Whats been done the last days is:
Trashed the old computer (read previous post), set up a new computer with intel core2duo E6600 proc and 4 gig ram, onboard gfx nvidia 9400.
Removed the old monitor (it was in really bad shape and had a very noticable "Game over" burn in. Placed a LCD monitor inside (need to find a way to secure it correctly inside)
Wired up P1 with ipac, ultimarc spintrac with usb connector and usb happ trackball (just to configure the setup)
Running Mame 0.133u3 command line with hiscore savings.
Running Mala 1.71 Frontend

Still lots to do but finally getting some progress - Happy days  

[Vebbo]

Ouch, had to do some soldering today the 5v and gnd was off on the 2nd player stick. As a result of this I'm having blisters on three fingers and just to type this hurts a bit. No pain no gain... right  .

Attaching some pictures today, pics are always interesting, that's one thing i have learned from this forum for sure!

Can anyone with some experience please verify that this is ok? I have connected all tree happ p360 to one USB cable, see picture -> "Close up 5v power to p360s"

I'm also eager to see the effect of the "lightmite" mod on the trackball, see picture -> "Lightmite"

Rest of the pictures speaks for themselves.

Tomorrow i have to get this baby up and running  Having a quite large party starting Friday, 17 guys from my gaming clan comes over for the weekend too  and  so this better work 

 

[Rick]

Welcome back!  Did you ever dye your balltops?  If so, post up a pic, and any 'yay/nay' moments you encountered.  I just read this thread, and noted the instructions, and I might just do this for my Happ Competition joysticks I ordered from GGG.  I had ordered red for an earlier rendition of my cab, but now, I find myself wanting/needing black.  I figure, if the Rit Dye works as well as it looks, that's what I will do as well!

[Vebbo]

Puh, finally got it all assembled... Even the marquee is on Its so fun to play these games again with decent controllers  

Welcome back!  Did you ever dye your balltops?

Thanks Rick, its been too long. Haven't had time or energy to "finish" it until now. Its not by far finished but now its playable, a huge step for me  

No, i have not dyed the balltops yet, its on the to do list.

Now that the cabinet is playable its gonna be great fun this weekend, just hope nobody spills their drink over the cp  

Next is to find a nice way to secure the monitor, dye the wico balltops, build a new base for the cab, finish the artwork, print it and apply it, make a bezel, t-mold, add more emulators etc etc, the list is long... someday i get there!

I will try to get some decent pics for my next post.

Forgot to mention that the lightmite gave the trackball a very nice glow, excellent product!

[Garza]

Yes cant wait to see some pics! I am wanting to see it all lit up!

[Vebbo]

Hi there. This weekend was a blast! I was ofcourse to bizi  and therefore i forgot to take pics...  but i tok one with my son today, he's 7 years old and he loves the new gadget 

[Vebbo]

It was time to figure out how to secure the dell 24" monitor. I also didn't want to remove the old CRT mount chassis in case i stumble over a new one. I Just took a 16mm mdf plate (same as the controlpanel) used the same boltholes as the CRT monitor used with the chassis and voila :-)

I think it turned out really good and it feels nice to have the monitor all the way to the front just some millimeters clearance to the glass(not mounted yet).



Here's some more pics on securing the monitor.









* Bah, were something wrong with the imagelinks - up and running again :-)