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GaryMcT's 2-player generic control panel layout

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GaryMcT:


--- Quote from: Bender on August 06, 2009, 10:59:20 am ---yes, I have the u360 bottom mounted but I route out the back so it's only approximately 1/4" below the surface in the end pretty close to the 1/16th you'd do for top mounting plus 1/8 lexan added up to 3/16 so in reality your only talkin about 1/16 to 1/8 lower than top mounting

I didn't go with the longer shaft

I've though about top mounting and you can take the 360's mostly apart without removing them, so if you bondoed the top and sanded if flush, that would work, you just couldn't change the stick if you wanted to later on(without some difficulty) though your panel is pretty straight forward so you just might want to make a new one if you were going to change sticks anyway



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Did you use something like the joystick mounting kit here to keep anything from poking out the top?

http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html#mountingkits

This routing job looks actually easier than the top mount. . . exciting! :)


GaryMcT:


--- Quote from: bkenobi on August 06, 2009, 01:48:18 pm ---I haven't had too many problems with hitting quit instead of pause, but that's probably because I'm the only one who uses the pause button.  My primary concern was keeping the players start/coin buttons separate from the 2 admin buttons as well as making it work with my artwork choices (groups of 2 buttons of a given distance apart).  If it were a big problem, I would probably write a script of some kind to only send quit if you held down the quit button for a couple seconds.

As for the FF question, yes it does send the other buttons too.  BUT, FF is only needed at the beginning or when you are already in the game and have started P1 anyway.  I have P1 Start + P1 Up mapped to menu (TAB) and that could be a problem.  HOWEVER, if you are going into the menu, you aren't really concerned about playing ATM anyway, so it's not an issue IMO.

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I could possibly modify Mame to be able to do something special for shift buttons such that their primary function doesn't trigger doesn't happen until you let go and only if it were never used for anything else.

Bender:

I actually used the U-track mounts (they worked so well when installing the trackball I ordered some more special from Andy at Ultimarc) but those should work too as long as the insert isn't longer than 1/4" so the 5mm ones should work (if they were are tiny bit longer you could always grind or sand them down)
I drilled all the way through for the inserts then put the joystick in then bondoed the tiny divits that were left on top

I cut the polycarbonate film with an x-acto knife (very carefully of course)

here is a visual representation for what I'm talking about with the Top Vs Bottom mount distance. The top mount you loose 3/16 and bottom mount 1/4 a very negligible 1/16 more for the bottom mount and it's a lot easier to do IMO, though if you do bottom mounted AND did a lexan CPO you'd loose another 1/8 then you might want to think about the longer shaft

Bender:


--- Quote from: GaryMcT on August 06, 2009, 03:14:51 am ---Yes?



So the polycarbonate is still thin enough to still be able to leave 1/8" in the MDF/wood for the tiny buttons to mount?


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sorry missed that post it was 3:15 am for me ;)

but yes it's thin enough to leave 1/8" of material for the buttons

the layout looks perfect! :cheers:

GaryMcT:

Oh man. . .the router is fun! :)  I think I could route on pieces of wood for hours.  Also, bottom mounting is extra awesome since my route there doesn't have to be neat. :)

If you had to have an angled side like this:



could you get a router bit to do that with a straight edge?  It's about a 24 degree angle from my measurement form my original one.

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