ok i was able to spend some time last night checking it out a little better.
it's mostly good news i'd say.. the 2nd player start i got fixed, dunno what was wrong with it, but i removed the switch, tapped the button a few times and it freed it self up, stuck switch back on and it seems to work ok now, not that a 2 dollar button really matters but it's nice to have it working now.
album:
http://tinypic.com/a/x5c3/3below is some pictures i took.. it's a lot i know this is only about a 3rd of what i took.
below is the CP, it's actually in pretty good shape.. has nice overlay and the plexi? or what ever is in great shape.. needs cleaned but not a lot of scratches still pretty clear and no cracks.. the buttons on the panel are at a angle and to far apart.. otherwise i'd be tempted to just use this as a base for my 2p fighter panel.. shame.
1p joy stick is messed up has a lot of play.. i have not removed it yet because it's soldiered, i may take it out and switch 2p controls over to 1p so i can still do tests.
using the switch test it seems U,L,R all work and return center, down however does'nt always return and sometimes gets stuck in the down position.. it's as if there is no spring power to center the joy stick once you hit down, again not a big deal i will not be using these for my CP's but it's always nice to get them working for later on in a pinch.
btw can anyone identify the joystick? im not sure what kind it is.. i know these are'nt a lot to go on, would be marked if i unscrewed it? im curious what brand/model it is.
here you can see the burn in, it's actually quite lite in person even on lightly colored back grounds it's not to bad, hardly even noticeable unless you're looking for it, it's pretty high up on the monitor & you're usually looking at center, i think i can probably live with it.. at least until i can 1. save up for a new one or 2. find a good deal on a nice used one..
also check out the freaky error in the picture.. im thinking it's the cameras flash? i dunno but it's freaky for sure.
Here we have the convergence test, i suspected it had convergence problems when we powered it up at the sellers location, but i had read that it could be adjusted it did'nt bother me.. i did not know how involved it actually was, anyway the convergence test verifies it has some serious problems here, the horizontal converge is'nt to bad, you can see some slight problems (about 1 pixel) on either side, however the vertical converge is truely in need of some help.. it's horribly off.
i noticed the convergence was not uniformly off.. it's worse in the center, the edges it's a little different
Center:
R
G
B
Top Left & Right Corners:
R
G,B
Bottom Left & Right Corners
R,G
B
Im still reading on wiki about monitors but i wont be making any changes until at the very end of the project because i plan to use soft-15khz, if i some how blow the monitor up i'd rather do it to it before i put money & time into getting it looking nice.
Here we see some various pictures, color looks good so RGB are still functional on the tube, also a snap of the ver, which is the highest mame supports.. so i suspect this is the last version released, there is a snap of the sound test screen which of all the picutres i took this one shows the dark lines i was talking about the best.. can also see some light/dark bars across the screen on dark pictures such as this one, not sure what the term is for them but it looks like it's lighter and darker.. not uniform, kinda wavy i guess.
can also see the page showing it's up time.. this can be cleared so who knows if thats the TRUE time of the board..
i have a feeling though that this was in the field at one point.. i can't see someone leaving it on 24/7 for almost a year inside their house, and the coin counter is crazy high.
free play is pretty low and this is what it was set to when i bought it.. in which case it was played very little after the seller received it (he said about a year ago off a buddy)
Interesting that it would havea namco sticker on the back.. im 99.9% sure this is a konami 4player cab (either tmnt or punkshot), is it standard practice to put sticks on the back for conversions?
can see where the lock off.. it was ugly and i could'nt transport on it's back with it sticking out.
can see here where the barrel lock was damged.. my guess is they bought the machine without key's an did a rather poor job of break into the cab.. they should have tried to drill the lock out instead they used the brute force method the cab paid the price.
i hope to try and put a barrel lock back in it, can see the tape i used to hold the door shut during transit (i did'nt want teh door to flop around on us when moving it and also was afraid it would come loose and damage the tube, it is EXTREMLY close to the cabinet back door, i simply cut it to get inside after i got it home.. was afraid to peal it off without the use of a blow dryer to help heat it up.
Here's some shots of the monitor, it was on so i payed extra attention to not touch anything.
im still reading about monitors but i know enough that this is the rings for the convergence adjustment.. it looks like the expoxy is still on it..
so the tube is a zenith, it's thick with dust, i was afraid to touch it, it says jan 7th, 90 (1990), 4th shift.
which puts it right around punk shot and tmnt, i would guess this is the original tube, makes you wonder how many miles are on it huh?
how long do this things last anyway? it's nearly 20 years old!, that got me to thinking.. with the move to flat crt's and then to LCD/plasma, is there any danger of running out of spare monitors? 10 years from now will it even be possible to get a traditional standard res round crt?
here's a shot of the model number sticker, so it's a WG which i guess is good thing because they seem to have a reputation for making good monitors.
here's some shot of the chassis, it was mentioned it should probably have it's capacitors changed, are the solid state capacitors worth the extra money? they're suppose to last a lot longer.
heres a shot of the "yoke" if i have terminology correct
tube marking
on the right side of the monitors frame (look from back of cabinet) here's a little diagram of the controls
top of the cabinet, oddly the vents are not the same size, left one is 135mm, the right one is 132mm.. odd.. roughly 300mm from end to end.
i have plans to add at least 1 exhaust fan, i was thinking of 250mm but that still would'nt replace the vents completely.. now im thinking perhaps 120mm x2.. i have'nt decided yet, but im gonna be using a hefty cpu.. probably amd phenom ii x2 550.. OC'ed to about 3.6/3.7ghz.. or possibly a 5200e oc'ed to 3.2+ghz either way i wanna make sure i can get the heat out of the cab.
here we see the bottom of the cab, what i wanna do is put a shelf on teh left side, and a slide out draw on teh right, under which will be the speakers sub woofer, on teh slide out i'll put the computers mother board, on the left side that will have a fixed shelf i'll put the ipac, power supply, and any terminal blocks.. this way you can swap the mother board out easily while leaving the rest of the cabinet intact, should make upgrading the computer fairly simply and easy, being the cheap skate that i am i'll probably hold of untill near the end to do because i'll just wait till i see a old computer desk someone has thrown out and take the rails off it rather then buying them.
shot of the pcb, i wont be leaving it in the cab, i plan on taking anything not essential out, since this wil be a straight "mame" cab.
shots of the coin mech, i had more time last night to play with them, it's mostly good news.
cosmetically inside and out the coin door and mech's are in good shape, i plunked some quarters in each of the 4, they all ran smoothly, there is however a problem with the coin switch on #1 and 3 slot..
#1 i think is just worn out.. electrically it is sound, however the return spring on it i think is weak.. the arm goes down but does not always return to the up position.
#3 works and returns, however it's arm has somehow been bent outward, so it's arm does not even sit below where the coin drops out of the mech.. i should be able to remove the switch and bend the arm back into place.
the right coin/cash door swings like butter.
the left cash door swings find as well.. however the left coin door is off some how.. it will shut but it does not do so smoothly.. it has a bit of friction when the door meets the frame.. i could'nt figure out why this was happening.. i will leave that for later since it's not essential and the door does close just not smoothly.. the frame and door did not look bent to me so it's a real melon scratcher.
these do not have any coin lock out, this is a pitty because i had plans to wire those up and although i dont know anyway to get them to function in mame like a real machine would i was gonna wire it to the power supply so at least it would'nt eat quarters when it's off.
but we can't have everything i suppose.