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Naomi Projects - Update : PCB Holder
Franco B:
Yeah it's going to be pretty much dedicated Neo apart from some 360/DC tournaments.
I have thought about painting the bezel black or white. I want to get this on location as quick as possible. I do have a spare bezel that I may paint once it is up and running so I'll just use the grey bezel for now.
It's only going to be students playing it so I shouldn't imagine they will care too much what it will look like but I want to do a good job for when it eventually comes back to me or I sell it on etc.
I would love to do some propper mock ups but I don't have the skills. I seem to remember you doing some mock ups for your Xiong-Ba cab. Do you think you could do a mock up for me if I sent you some decent images?
emphatic:
--- Quote from: Franco B on November 06, 2009, 05:33:59 am ---Do you think you could do a mock up for me if I sent you some decent images?
--- End quote ---
Sure, send me a PM at AO or something.
Franco B:
Top man :) I'll get some pics once I can actually move in my shop :dizzy:
Well, I have sold the 'SF4' Naomi. I am delivering it to the guy who bought it this week. This will free up some room so I can work more easily on my main Naomi project.
It will also free up a little cash and some room for my eventual visual pinball table ;D
I have been doing a little work in regards to the volume and degauss controls for the Neomi. Normally both of these are controlled by the pcb in the I/O panel but seeing as I have no JVS setup there is nothing for the panel to plug into. The only controls that I need from the panel are the volume for the Sega amp and the degauss for the monitor.
Thanks to the help from some of the guys over at AO I have managed to get both working.
For the volume control I got a 4k7Ω log pot from Maplins and soldered some wires/terminals onto the ends.
Obviously the shaft is about a mile to long so I just hacksawed that off. I cut the end off the wires that came from the amp and wired them to the pot.
I then just drilled a hole for it and mounted it in the panel. I made a white PTFE/stainless knob for it just to tidy it up a bit.
You can also see the NO SPST momentary button I added for degauss (the one with the black surround).
I found out that you just need to cut the end off the AMP power connector that plugs into the monitor chassis and wire it to the microswitches terminals.
The mounting enclosure looked a bit grubby so I have shot blasted it and I'm going to paint it appliance white.
Franco B:
I have received the CPO and instruction card graphics from Nigel at arcadestickers.co.uk and they are fantastic. I ordered them on Monday and he said he would try to get them posted out on Friday but he must have posted them on Thursday as I actually got them on Friday. I can't fault his service at all and I would recommend him to anyone.
Since I had the graphics I wanted to get the joystick mounting plates mounted to the CP as I didn't want to damage the CPO once it was applied.
I put the CP onto the top CP mount and traced around the mounting areas with a black sharpie and then offered the mounting plates up to the CP to see if they would fit ok. I found that a couple of them would foul slightly so I had to remove some material so that everything would fit.
I masked off the area where the plates will mount and keyed the aluminium with 120grit to give the glue a better surface to stick to.
To make sure that the joysticks shafts were mounted concentric to the hole in the CP I made some Nylon bushes to hold the joysticks in position.
I then used Araldyte to glue the mounting plates in position:
CPO and instruction space graphics applied:
As you can see I have painted the speaker grills and the center panels appliance white.
I also painted the I/O plate:
I added the coin reject plunger, coin inlet and dummy plug. The cab didn't come with a dummy plug so I made a replacement SS one.
I was going to use those LED strips to light the buttons but I had a better idea. I have been trying to come up for a solution to individually light the buttons without getting spotting that you usually get from inserting a LED or two either side of the microswitch. My originall idea was to make a Nylon ring insert with holes drilled at 15 degrees to aim the LEDs at the center of the plunger rather than straight up which gives you the spotting effect:
I did make the inserts and it did work but it was going to be a PITA to mount the LEDs in each button so I came up with another idea.
I thought about making some tubes which would encase the button and microswitch etc. The plan then is to use Piranha/Superflux LEDs mounted in the bottom of the tubes to light the whole button from below.
These are the Piranha/Superflux LEDs:
They are rated at a lower MCD rating but they have a much wider viewing angle and so kick out more usefull light for this application.
I made the tubes out of black Nylon 6 and made a drilling jig to drill each button accurately to mount the LEDs inside the buttons:
The LEDs sit inside the tubes and the legs stick through the bottom. The tubes have a thread screwcut to match the thread on the buttons: The larger 4mm hole is for the microswitch wires.
I have also been working on the hardware mounting in the machines base.
After trying a few different configurations I decided that the best plan was to mount the 4 slot mobo at the front of the base. I made a MDF base for it to sit on and routed out some reliefs that the MDF sits flush and stationary as it is held in place by the original MDF holders although not in the same way.
The 4 slot will then mount to the MDF with PCB mounting feet.
I had to remove the original PSU/amp cradle to allow the 4 slot mobo to be positioned where it is so I am relocating the amp to the rear of the base on another piece of MDF. The Jamma PSU and video converter will also be mounted on this section.
The video converter isn't in that picture as I have lent it to someone to troubleshoot their monitor.
Still plenty to do but its starting to look half decent now :)
emphatic:
Looking pretty tight there, can you really switch out the cart pictured with the mobo in place, or do you have to pull the whole mobo out to do that?