Main > Project Announcements
Naomi Projects - Update : PCB Holder
Franco B:
Ha! I wouldn't go that far! :P
Okies, plenty of pics ahoy! :)
I used the MDF template I made to route out a piece of black 3mm acrylic to make a new CP:
Although its a perfect fit it sits just slightly too high so I'm going to get a CP CNC milled from 2mm aluminium.
You can see the CP I am going to make here. I'm going to have RGB joysticks, RGB lit buttons and RGB lit arrows around each joystick. I seem to amassed eight LED Wiz's so I may as well put three to good use.
Pic of the modded RGB swivel JLF's I made:
You can also see the instruction panel above the CP. I'm going to use the SI graphics that BASS! kindly designed for me and I'm going to use the instruction space and the CP area for the graphics as the CP is fairly narrow and a lot of the graphics would be missed off.
Original graphics for reference:
BASS! is kindly tweaking the graphics for me to fit the new CP etc and is also designing a marquee and hopefully some art for the legs too
The two higher circles in the center will be player one and two start buttons and I'm thinking of installing the turbo twist spinner where the lower center circle is and using the SI spinner top I made:
Whilst I am getting the CP sorted I have been working on the stools some more. I made a template out of some scrap material I had at work to use as the template for the upper seat acrylic, lower seat acrylic and the base acrylic:
As you can see the spacies will fit inside nicely:
The black acrylic I ordered was six 300x300x10mm sheets. I needed to remove the excess material before template routing the rings. To do this I used the circle jig I made based of Javs design/how to.
Its basically the same as Javs, I just screwed it together instead of gluing it and made a knurled knob to fix the sliding block. I also added another t-nut with a long M6 bolt which acts as the pivot.
I marked the template out and drilled a 6mm center hole and countersunk holes in the corners to fix the material to my work bench.
In the end I attached the material to a scrap piece of MDF as the two surfaces of the work bench are not parallel and it was causing the acrylic to bend. It was then just a case of setting the cutting radii and cutting the rings out.
Just a safety reminder here, I had one of the bits break on me as I was routing. Always wear eye protection guys!
Pic of the routed out pieces:
Now I just need to attach the pieces to the template and route off the excess material. I have ordered some more flush trim bits which should be here tomorrow.
I have also had some luck on the monitor front. At the moment both candys have 31khz monitors. The one I am maming has some screen burn so I have been looking for a replacement. grantspain had some 29" (27" to you US guys) 15khz monitors shipped over from Spain and I bought two of them. This is one of them:
I have replaced the monitor in my Jamma woody with one of them and the picture on them is awesome! The monitor I had before had some serious colour issues which I couldn't fix so I replaced it with one of the 29"s and its loads better :)
This is the old monitor:
and this is the new one prior to decasing it and mounting it in the cab:
The best thing about them is they were only £50 each! :D
I plan to replace the burned 31khz monitor in the mame candidate with the other 29" 15hkz monitor. I just need to weigh up the best way to connect it to the PC. Either ArcadeVGA>JPAC or soft 15khz or JVS-PAC or whatever.
This means I should have mame running at 15khz and I should also be able to connect my Saturn. I will leave the 31khz in the other cab for Naomi carts, Xbox 360 and dreamcast which should leave most of the bases covered.
Whilst I'm on the subject of the other cab I have the DC and 360 hooked up to the monitor via a VGA switch:
The 360 has a VGA lead and the DC is connected though a VGA box. The DC looks awesome though VGA and me and the GF had a right 'blast' with some lightgun games last night. I played Confidential Mission for the first time and its great! :)
The candys also have some hooks on the back which are ideal to hang the DC guns as you can see in that pic.
Haruman is hacking me some DC pads and I'm going to add AMP connectors so the controls can be easily changed from Naomi>360>DC.
javeryh:
Awesome looking! I'd love to play some HotD2 with the wife but I don't have anything that can play it at the moment! Those cabs look great! :cheers:
Franco B:
Cheers bud. Yeah the 31khz cab is great for DC light gun games. It only hit me the other day that I would be able to play light gun games on it. I quickly grabbed the light guns out the attic and 'acquired' some gun games :P
javeryh:
--- Quote from: Franco B on August 03, 2009, 01:34:31 pm ---Cheers bud. Yeah the 31khz cab is great for DC light gun games. It only hit me the other day that I would be able to play light gun games on it. I quickly grabbed the light guns out the attic and 'acquired' some gun games :P
--- End quote ---
Like you, I also don't have a full MAME cabinet in the house at the moment. I've got 2 verticals and a now-gutted cocktail and an unfinished wood-grain upright but nothing complete that people can come over and play "anything" on. I can get my fill of the classics for sure but I really wish I could play some gun, trackball and spinner games. I promised myself I wouldn't be starting anything new until all current projects are at 100% so it is going to be a while... I am drooling at that candy running HotD2... I almost want to go home and hook up the Dreamcast just to play it again...
Franco B:
That's it bud, too much time making and not enough time playing! :)
Did some more work on the stools today. I stuck the first ring to the template with double sided tape like normal but I was having problems getting the acrylic off afterwards. It can also remove the protective film from one side of the component and/or leaves a sticky residue which takes an age to get off. Seeing as the acrylic is 10mm thick I thought I would drill and tap the acrylic to hold it to the template.
I drilled thought the template and into the acrylic leaving about 3mm so as not to break through. I have found the best way to tap a hole when using a pillar bench drill (assuming you don't have a tapping box is to do the following:
Drill your tapping hole with the job securely clamped. Remove the drill and insert the tap into the chuck:
Bring the tap down to the hole and rotate the chuck by hand (make sure the power is off!) to start the first few threads.
Then just undo the chuck and raise the chuck/arbour with the tap still in the hole. You can then finish the tapping with a tap wrench:
This method ensures that the tap starts cutting in line with the hole and wont wander etc.
I used a 5mm drill as I was tapping M6x1 holes (you just subtract the pitch from the thread size to get the drill size on metric threads). I used a M6 spiral fluted machine tap and then ran a straight fluted M6 tap which I had ground the lead off to make sure that the threads went all the way to the bottom of the hole:
Then it was just a case of routing the excess off:
Here you can see one of the Spacies sat inside the top ring to give you a better idea of how the stools will look. The Spacie will sit 8mm inside the top ring and there will be a piece of 8mm clear acrylic on top of it to bring it flush with the top of the seat. There will also be a 8mm clear piece below the Spacie and on top of the lumin disc to give it a little depth and make the Spacie look like its floating a little:
Pic of all the pieces template routed and 6mm beveled:
To polish them I bolted the pieces back to the template and held it in a lathe. Its making them easier to polish but its still heavy going: