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Naomi Projects - Update : PCB Holder
Franco B:
--- Quote from: emphatic on February 09, 2010, 06:20:39 am --- :cheers:
In that picture, the bezel really looks washed out as your cab is red. A black or white repaint in the future? ;)
--- End quote ---
Yeah I completely agree, I just wanted to get the damn thing in! I think when I get it back I will chop it down, paint the bezel white, strip the legs and paint them red with white Neo Geo decals or vice versa and strip and repaint a couple of other parts. I'll probably also install the spare 15khz monitor I bought of Grant from IC09.
I'm picking up a minty red base off fire-bug soon which I will swap for this one. I also bought the 'SF4' Naomi back of Red5 so I can put the white base back on that.
--- Quote from: Gatsu on February 09, 2010, 04:51:03 pm ---now thats sexy.
looks real good man. all that work paid off.
--- End quote ---
Cheers mate. Yeah it did take a little more work/time than I anticipated but I got there in the end :)
--- Quote from: javeryh on February 09, 2010, 05:04:27 pm ---Damn Franco - you have a really nice basement(?) area. Lots and lots of room. I'm jealous! Oh yeah, the cab turned out awesome too. :cheers:
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Ha ha! :laugh2:
I wish buddy, I really really wish it was mine. It's actually on site at a University bar. :)
It did feel really strange leaving it there.
--- Quote from: Kman-Sweden on February 09, 2010, 03:37:12 am ---Hell yeah! :pics
--- End quote ---
Ok sir....
I think I left off at the start of the CP wiring.
As I said before I was using the nylon button surrounds to test an idea I had for button lighting for one of my other Naomi projects. I didn't need to use them on this project as I could have just used some LED strips to light the buttons as they don't need to be independently lit but I wanted to try them out before using them for real.
As the micros were going to be inside the button surrounds I needed to solder wires onto the micros so I could thread them through the hole once the surround had been screwed onto the holder:
I put some aluminium foil inside the surrounds to reflect any light from the wide angle LEDs to the buttons:
I then mounted the buttons/surrounds and added quick disconnects purely to help with the rest of the wiring:
The rest of the CP was then wired. The blue wire is the ground loop and the wires from the control loom will connect to the other disconnects.
The single colour superflux LEDs have four legs. Two are anodes and two are cathodes. I wired them in parallel for 5v and added disconnects at the far side for power connection. The bunch of disconnects you can see are from the JLF harness.
I used liquid electrical tape to insulate the bare LED legs.
I punched out some coloured vinyl discs to put in the buttons to make the colours more solid and to block the light shining through the plunger.
One very blurry LED picture:
I made some control harnesses to connect the CP to the AMP connectors in the IO plate:
I wired up all of the components in the base:
The transformer on the left powers the monitor, strip light and Sega amp. The Jamma PSU next to it powers the Jamma/MVS harness, video converter, credit board and CP lighting.
The R,G,B, sync and ground from the Jamma harness connect to the CGA>VGA video converter which is then connected to the monitor with a VGA cable. The audio is taken from the Jamma harness/MVS PCB and connected to the Sega amp via a RCA line level converter cable so that it can be controlled by the volume pot in the IO panel in the CP.
I had a bit of a game trying to get the select game button to work. I eventually found out that there is no link across the MVS>Jamma PCB as they expect you to use the optional crazily priced cables that connect to the headers. As I only wanted to use this extra button I just soldered a wire over the board to link the contacts:
The board was setup so that player one button one and player two button one also worked as a game select button but I did not want them to do that so I cut the traces on the PCB.
You can also see the MB header cable I used to take the audio from the board rather than use the expensive cable you can buy.
I also had an issue with the video jumping just before the cab was about to go on location. After trying various things it was apparent the video converter was faulty so I had to buy a new one. The monitor chassis also decided to start sparking at the flyback the day before it went in but luckily I had a complete spare monitor I could put in.
I had a friend of mine design the marquee for me and I had it printed at a local sign place.
He did me a couple of copies of it and also printed a load of the start button insert graphics for me.
And thats it really I think. Here's a couple of finished pictures together:
I really enjoyed doing this conversion and learnt a hell of a lot about Jamma/MVS wiring etc etc. I couldn't have done a lot of it without some help from the guys here and at Arcade Otaku so I am truly gratefull to you all :cheers:
Kman-Sweden:
I used a regular jamma harness and relabeled it by printing out MVS harness labels and attached them with some double sided tape.
Labels here ---> http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/JammaLabels.zip
Franco B:
Yeah I saw them. I kept meaning to print them off but I never got round to it.
I wanted to keep the harness as Jamma so that I can just unplug the adapter and plug in a Jamma board.
To be honest the MVS>Jamma adapter is a waste of money for what it is. If I had known then what I know now and had to do something similar I would have made my own adapter from a edge connector and fingerboard.
kop:
Love the way you've lit up the buttons! :applaud:
Every other time I've seen those buttons modded the light is uneven and there's always a brightly lit spot directly under the LED. Very clever idea.
Kman-Sweden:
Yeah the buttons look amazing. ;D