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| Tutorial: disable recoil in EMS TopGun II |
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| jasonbar:
21: If you did the switch handle trimming in step 14, you'll need to also trim the rubber cover. Since the handle is tapered & fatter on its tip, the rubber cover wil now be loose. A little glue will hold it on (I prefer Gorrila Glue, but use only a little, as GG foams up & expands a lot when it sets!!!). As *not* shown in Pic 21, you should put the washer & nut on before gluing on the switch cover, as it's difficult to get them on over the cover! 22: Solder a short length of wire to one switch tab. I recommend floppy stranded wire, so you won't be fighting it as you tuck it into the gun. 23: Desolder the left gray motor lead from the ribbon cable. Do it quickly--don't desolder the noise suppression capacitor. 24/25/26: Solder the gray motor lead to the other switch tab & solder the new short length of wire to the motor tab. 27: Time to test!!! The gun doesn't need to be hooked up to a PC to recoil--it just needs USB power. If you've got an iPod or other USB charger, it makes for a handy plug, if you're not near your PC. Carefully pull the trigger a few times with the switch in each position & make sure that the toggle switch is indeed disasbling/enabling recoil. Notice that, because the slide is removed, the normal behavior to expect here is just a moment of the motor & gears spinning. That's normal--the slide uses a rack & pinion to turn the rotary motion into linear motion. If the test goes well, pop the switch out, put a bit of hot glue in the switch cavity, & then replace the switch--now it will stay put while you reassemble. The glue will not be what's holding the switch in place ultimately--the threaded stud & nut do the holding. |
| jasonbar:
28: Reassembly! Return the power/data cable to its proper notches (it's snug against the switch washer--that's OK). Stick that palm switch back in the grip frame. Make sure that the 2 slide switches on the PCB (for laser on/off & autofire settings) correspond to the outer switch positions on the left half of the gun body. Now, attach the left half of the gun to the right half using 7 screws. Remember where the 2 flathead screws go! Make sure you don't pinch the laser wires--they should exit the slot in front of the trigger guard. Do NOT replace the cover (as seen in step 1) & capture that frontmost chassis screw yet! Now's a good time to rotate the outer washer until its tab hooks in the X/P slot gap & then put a *small* dab of removable Loctite threadlocker on the switch stud & secure the jam nut. Not too tight! 29: Put the recoil compression on the shaft sticking out the front of the barrrel. Use the slide to compress the spring, bring the slide all the way back to the hammer until it's clear of the barrel, & then just snap it down onto the barrel. 30: Reassemble the left & right grip plates. This is 4 pieces of plastic. 31: Carefully take the laser apart & reassemble it over the 2 tabs on the trigger guard & chassis. Make sure that the adjustment wheel posts are engaged in the laser housing slots. After screwing it together, stick your eye right up to the laser hole on the front of the gun (make sure it's not plugged in!!!) & rotate the wheels. You should see the laser tilt accordingly. Now, plug the gun in & do one more test and *then* reinsert that fussy screw cover from step 1. 32: Print out a little sticker (mine is from a Brother P-Touch) to tell users what the switch does & which way is on. 33/34: Admire your handiwork, test all the buttons with the EMS TopGun II software, & play some gun games! Epilogue: 1 more item on the to-do list for this project (I'll post when I get to this finishing touch): Find something black to cram into the hole in the magazine catch (see step 2) Thanks, -Jason |
| mimic:
Wow, you were hard at work. :notworthy: Very intersting. If I get too much time, I might follow your tutorial. |
| jasonbar:
Thanks--I obviously much prefer playing with hardware & hacking than setting up software--I'm great at procrastinating on software! -Jason |
| jasonbar:
I sent EMS an e-mail with a link to this thread. It's always nice when a company responds to personal comments & such (when they're not related to buying something :D ). Here's what they wrote: Dear Jason, Thank you for your email. It's a wonderful operation. It would be much more convenient with this switch. That small jack is a port for the power cable for the recoil function. As that was a hole on the housing of the gun, we decided to change it to the second port for the power cable for the recoil function. Therefore, that jack is useless. Thanks. Regards, Henry EMS Production Ltd. www.hkems.com Tel : (852) 2748 7098 Fax : (852) 2387 9849 |
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