| Main > Main Forum |
| Help with Hinges |
| << < (2/2) |
| pmc:
I found some no-mortising cabinet hinges at Home Depot for $6 a pair. More expensive than regular hinges, but they are meant for an inset cabinet door with near zero clearance all the way around -- so they swing the door out to make enough room to for the door to open -- no gaps around the door, and no hinge buckles showing. If they work the way I think they will, you'll never know a door is there. We'll see what happens. |
| hyiu:
hi pmc... when you're done... can you post some pics ?? thx.... |
| Sasquatch!:
You could also go with a "European Hinge". There are pics at: http://www.workshopsupply.com/euro2.shtml |
| pmc:
--- Quote from: hyiu on July 09, 2003, 09:45:58 am ---hi pmc... when you're done... can you post some pics ?? --- End quote --- I would. But they came out crappy and now I have to redo them some other way. Where do I start.... OK. I used a hinge that looks like this: http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc% 2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1437499678.1058146684@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccegadcildlimk kcgelceffdfgidgjj.0&MID=9876&frmSearchStr=hinge only that's not quite the same hinge. The ones I got were cheaper and simpler. The problem is that it expects to have the door flush mounted with the frame like most kitchen cabinets. My cab is a Defender look-a-like so all the front panels are inset about 3/4". The door panel is 24.5" wide, about 16.5" tall, and 3/4" thick. I don't think these hinges offer enough support for the door, but it mostly works. The door opens perhaps 45-degrees before binding. I'm thinking about living with it. But I tried to tune it by cutting a bigger gap and chamfering the outside edge on the hinge side at 45-degrees. That helped a tiny-bit. Now I'm thinking about regular cabinet doors and just painting the hinges black so you don't see 'em. Alternately, I might just use magnets to hold the panel on and just put two pull-handles on it so it comes off like a "hatch". I have an entertainment center with a door that works the same way. I tried to steal the hardware for my door, but it won't work quite right on my cabinet. The door swings on a pin on the top and bottom and the pin is about 1.5" in from the edge. So the door closes perfectly and there's no binding since it's cantalevered on the pin. You never see a hinge because there isn't one. So I'm sort of stuck and open for new ideas. I need this part done before I can start final painting (and while the cabinet waits to be painted, it's gutted and I CAN'T PLAY. That totally bites! |
| pmc:
--- Quote from: Sasquatch! on July 09, 2003, 09:01:55 pm ---You could also go with a "European Hinge". There are pics at: http://www.workshopsupply.com/euro2.shtml --- End quote --- Yeah... that's what I did. Only I wanted the kind I didn't have to mortise -- but they work the same way. It's the inset that kills ya! See the pic below (from your link) that shows the kind of hinge I have been playing with. Those cabinet hinges are all meant for "inset" or "overlay" cabinet doors and none can deal with additional inseting which appears to require different hardware altogether. I'm sure this a matter of hinge-physics which was really the root of my original query. I'm not even 100% sure if a hinge can be applied where I want it. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Previous page |