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The impossibility of flush top-mounting a Happ Competition Joystick
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TOK:
You should have plenty of room if you route down the thickness of the stick base and another 1/4" to clear a bolt. For mounting bolts, I got the style with the head that sits right down into the contoured area of the sticks mounting holes. I probably would have been OK with even 1/8" of clearance.

You can get the dust-washer under the overlay this way too. Only alcoholics and hackers put them on top, as everyone knows.  >:D  ;D  ;D

drventure:
I'd probably do something like

1) Drill holes for bolts using the happ comp as the template for the holes.
2) on the BOTTOM of the CP, drill  slightly bigger holes and tap in some standard t-nuts
3) back on the top, use a 5/8th bit or bigger and +gently+ drill out countersink holes on the TOP of the joystick. This will let the bolt heads sit flat
4) get some bolts like these
http://www.nutsandbolts.com/stainless-steel-phillips-flat-head-machine-screws-c-37_222.html

note the tapered heads. That will let them fit down snug into the countersunk holes you drilled out on the stick itself. (this is assuming you've routed the top so that the top of the happ mounting plate sits flush with the cp).

The happs have a good deal of plastic on the mounting bracket so as long as you don't drill the countersink holes TOO deep, you should be good.

traycerb:

--- Quote from: RandyT on May 10, 2009, 08:53:35 pm ---
--- Quote from: traycerb on May 10, 2009, 06:18:52 pm ---...it wasn't until after I fit them together I realized: it can't be mounted flush.  :timebomb:  Meaning, there's no place for a screw to hold down the Happ that the screw won't protrude.

--- End quote ---

Either I am totally missing the dilemma, or there's a simple solution.

Just use a countersink bit on the mounting holes and flat-head bolts.  This should get the heads below the surface easily.


RandyT



--- End quote ---

multiple people suggested variations on this, so I'll give it a go.  i was hesitant because I didn't know how the plastic would hold up to drilling/routing/etc, and whether or not it'd be stable with the abuse a joystick is likely to receive.  I'll give my countersink bit a go and update with results.

thanks to all who responded.  after all the work I've done so far, i was frustrated at this additional hangup, but it looks to be manageable now.  :)
Popcorrin:
The only other issue I can think of, is if you need to replace the joystick or you decide to upgrade it.  Since you plan on laminating the panel this could cause issues.
bkenobi:
I'd vote for flush top mounting a metal plate and then bottom mounting the stick to it.  This way you will only lose the thickness of the metal plate in the length of the stick.  This is basically how the LS-30's were mounted onto a mounting plate.  I have a couple pictures of how I did this, but I still have bolts on the top even though I probably didn't need them (slightly different setup/requirements).
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