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| MattM:
Hi everyone. I'm new to these here parts and I was wondering if I could get a little help. I've never attempted any electronics before and I decided, after some research, to have a go at hacking a USB game pad to make a desktop arcade control panel. Basically, I've run into a problem already, and I'm hoping it's something easily fixed. The gamepad I picked up is the Logitech Precision, discussed on these boards here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=48562d17cff18b2ef838228cdbeebddf&topic=78297.msg816690#msg816690. My issue is with soldering. I was able to tin the wires just fine, I think :), but I'm stuck when it comes to the copper traces on the game pad. I place my soldering iron on them, but the solder never even begins to 'melt' onto them. I'm assuming that they aren't heating up for whatever reason. I've read it should only take a few seconds for this to happen. Needless to say, I'm confused and frustrated, as I've destroyed this gamepad in the process. I can't manage to find any answers on this site, forum, or other sites. Any ideas? Am I doing something obviously wrong? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. |
| HaRuMaN:
Are the copper traces really copper? Meaning, is there any 'black' paint over them? In any case, take a Dremel with the wire brush attachment, gently (at the lowest speed) go over the copper points that you want to solder to. Once that's done, clean the area with some rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip. After this, the solder should stick to the copper areas no problem. |
| Blanka:
It's common that PCB's have a coating outside the solder-points. That way solder never floats to parts it does not belong directly. If you want to solder to a coated trace, just use a small flat screwdriver to free the copper (hey you know how copper looks when its blank I guess?). Then solder it fast. It should never take more then 5 seconds to get the copper accept solder. If you heat it too long, the traces can come off, which makes your gamepad FUBAR in no time. |
| MattM:
Thanks for the quick replies guys! There doesn't appear to be any paint or other coating over the points. They actually look just like in the link I posted, which as far as i can tell is fully exposed. I'm rarely right though :D. Nevertheless, other websites spoke of the same thing, so I tried to scrape them back the other day with a screwdriver, and they did become slightly more shiny, but it didn't seem to help. If I used what I read is the incorrect method of tinning the points, namely putting solder on the iron and 'painting' it on the points, it held on them. But as I mentioned, solder wouldn't even melt when doing it the correct way. Would that mean that was still some kind of coating on there? I'll give the wire brush and rubbing alcohol a go. In the event that I can't get my hands on a Dremel, would steel wool or sandpaper do (according to other sources they can be used)? Thanks for the advice guys, I'll let you know how it goes. |
| BobA:
Looking at pictures of the pad you posted in the other thread there looks to be a coating over all the traces except in the contact area where the button press down. If this is not removed then you will not be able to get solder to stick to the traces. Other places you can solder to are the points that are already soldered on the pad. If a trace goes to a soldered point it is easier to solder there then on the trace that has to have the coating removed. You should never put solder on the soldering iron and paint it on the PCB. The trace and the wire should be heated together or a cold solder joint will result. You should however tin any wire with solder before trying to attach it to a trace. You can get liquid solder flux that can be painted on the trace. It must be the electronic type (Rosin) and not the plumbing type (acid). The liquid flux is only sold in electronics specialty stores. |
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