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| That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build) |
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| crashwg:
I absolutely love this build. I sure hope your software will be available so others (who can't code) are able to follow in your footsteps. That being said... On the Bowling game when the score changes from 2 digits to 3, the "display" shifts to compensate. I think it would look better if the location of the numbers were constant. I just watched the video again and noticed that the same happens on Cliffhanger. I'm not sure how I feel about the "issue" on that version though due to the small space the numbers are in. I think I'm still leaning towards having a set location for the digits would look better though. Maybe if the font wasn't modeled after a segmented display? |
| justinjstark:
--- Quote from: thatpurplestuff on April 12, 2011, 01:06:39 am ---I absolutely love the way this fake wood looks on the ramp, but I am a bit concerned with the noise... this material is significantly harder than the vinyl flooring that I was using previously, and because of that the balls are louder as they land on it. The nice thing about both materials that I have used on the ramp so far is that they are cheap and easily replaceable, so I think I'll wait until the machine is fully put back together before I decide whether or not to search for another ramp cover. --- End quote --- Would it help to lay down a thin sheet of padding under the "fake wood"? |
| thatpurplestuff:
crashwg- Good eye! The 0 placeholders are going to be included on every led number in the game, I just haven't gotten around to copying the code to the other game modes yet. The only game modes that I would officially consider done are "Free Skee" and "Flash Point"... others are pretty close like "310" and "Cliffhanger" (0 placeholders missing and a few small things)... and games like "Bowling" and "Old School" are really rough and going to get a complete makeover. justinjstark- That's a possibility, but would be a bit of a pain since I would need to adhere the padding to the ramp and then worry about the fake wood on top of it... I think I'm going to wait until everything is put back together and playable before I decide if I want to make any changes... the way I have things laid out, the ramp cover will always be replaceable. I've been getting the bumpers ready for the last couple days... basically I bought 8' or so of this rubber flooring off of a roll and then cut thin strips off of it. It's real rubber (or at least labelled as such) and seemed perfect to wrap around a piece of wood to create a bumper. I bought two 2"x2" pieces of wood, cut 1/2" off one side and then rounded the corners. I began gluing the rubber on to the wood last night, and to make it easier on myself I am only gluing one side at a time. Since each piece needs 2 sides glued and it takes 24 hours to set, the bumpers should be ready to mount by Saturday. Bumpers, T-molding cuts, and a slight modification to the ball return on the ramp should be done this weekend, meaning that I can put the outer side panels back on and finally get the endcaps seated and attached correctly. Slow and steady! |
| mgb:
The progress is really looking good |
| DNA Dan:
I think the ramp looks fantastic. I assume it's mostly the sound you are concerned about? In regard of the noise, I would check out second skin audio. They make a product called Damplifier Pro which you could roll on the backside of the ramp. It's similar to dynamat, however this is probably the best product on the market for car audio enthusiasts. This product does wonders for taking out vibrational frequency in panels. Search for their stuff on youtube and you'll find some before and after videos of people using this on their cars. It makes a tin can sound like 12" of thick material! I plan on doing our traveler with this stuff once my arcade cab is completed. Another thing to remember is typically skeeball units were lined up next to each other, so you'd hear a lot less noise from the roll as a result. Also the sounds in the arcade usually drowned out any noise. |
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