That's How I Roll! (Skeeball build)

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loggergolf:
In working on this myself, I have considered using vinyl like done on this one, but also have been looking for (affordable) cork surfacing. Anyone knoledgeable about this stuff and could tell me what to look for? There is all kinds of underlayment and rolls and everything else....just need to be pointed in a direction about what would work for this purpose and what would not. Thanks...

thatpurplestuff:
Kerfing... it sounds way more fun than it is.

I need some advice. I am going to try to cap the rounded edges with wood rather than the traditional metal coin door / service caps. The method that seemed the easiest to get this curve was kerfing, so I set out to try it. I have already snapped one attempted corner (it was 1/4" mdf and more rigid than the 1/4" plywood that I have now). The plywood is definitely closer to being able to fit the tight curve, but I'm afraid I'm going to snap it if I really try to push it. Does anyone have any advice as to how I can get the plywood to make the turn a little tighter? The only solution I have seen so far has been to get the wood wet and then form it to the curve. I am willing to try this but I was hoping to get some feedback from people that have experience with this kind of thing. My concerns are that the water on the plywood might transfer to the MDF and mess it up, or that the plywood will get all warped and funky if I do it wrong.

What's the best way to do this? Any kind souls care to weigh in? Please? Haha

Also, I've made some significant progress towards the net and the bumpers, but I'll post those updates once I get the corners figured out.

samej71:
Hello again.

I've thought about your question and had some suggestions (most of which I've assume you've already pondered). A wood-working fiend of mine helped come up with a couple.

1) Painting the MDF with a waterproof paint so it'd be pretty much shielded some from the moisture of the wet wood.

2) treating the plywood (steam/water) and creating a temporary water-tolerant jig to get the curve close to the cap's shape, and let it dry on the jig. After it has dried, it can be attached to the real side units without requiring so much dry bending force and without risking MDF swelling.

3) Using a material meant for bending, such as Wacky Wood, Wiggle Wood, or Bendy Wood. Not sure what the cost is or where it can be purchased. I'm guessing this isn't within the budget.

4) Use left-over MDF and do essentially what you did for the ball hop ramp. Cut several pieces of MDF approximately the size of the top of the cap, making sure you have 1/4" more on the top and front (so it will match up with the 1/4" ply or MDF you use to cover the rest of the side unit). Cut the outer edge to have the same approximate curve as the cap and trim the inner edge to lose some weight. String a few side-by-side until you have the whole end filled. You'll have to do something similar to the sides themselves so they're 1/4" bigger. Not sure if you'd want to cut a notch in them and put one of these new curved pieces there, or if you'd want to use wood filler or something to build it up so it matches. Either way, once assembled then it can be sanded so it looks like one solid piece. Since you will have over-sized the curve by 1/4" in the earlier steps, it will be come out flush with the 1/4" covers on the top and front of the side unit, once they are installed. I have some sketches I can scan in and attach if you'd like me to.

I'm thinking options 2 and 4 are your best bets.

mpm32:
I think you just need cut your kerfs deeper. It's hard to tell but I don't think they're deep enough.

samej71:

--- Quote ---I think you just need cut your kerfs deeper. It's hard to tell but I don't think they're deep enough.
--- End quote ---

Even better :)

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