Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Star Wars - fully working!
Spyridon:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on April 10, 2009, 02:16:08 pm ---Now that is definitely optional but good to have. I use a long screwdriver with a heavy wire, one end clipped to the screwdriver shaft and the other to the metal frame, then slide the flathead tip under the cap to the anode clip. You do need to be mindful of where your hands are but it does work fine and I know a lot of good techs who do it that way on location.
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Yeah, I've used that setup many times for standard monitors (I have this), but don't you need to put a series of resistors in place when doing that on a vector monitor?
See this thread:
Discharge a Vector monitor same as a Raster?
ChadTower:
--- Quote from: Spyridon on April 10, 2009, 02:27:13 pm ---Yeah, I've used that setup many times for standard monitors (I have this), but don't you need to put a series of resistors in place when doing that on a vector monitor?
See this thread:
Discharge a Vector monitor same as a Raster?
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Yes absolutely you're right - we even addressed this in this thread. ;D I forgot to mention that since I have been doing my Berzerk lately and have probably discharged that tube 100 times in the past two weeks. Good catch.
EDIT: I should mention that is specific to discharging to the frame. If you discharge to something else you don't need it. Sometimes for giggles I discharge into the cold water supply line above my workbench or the concrete basement floor. :)
orion:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on April 10, 2009, 02:16:08 pm ---Now that is definitely optional but good to have. I use a long screwdriver with a heavy wire, one end clipped to the screwdriver shaft and the other to the metal frame, then slide the flathead tip under the cap to the anode clip. You do need to be mindful of where your hands are but it does work fine and I know a lot of good techs who do it that way on location.
FWIW, that POP you read about doesn't always happen. In fact I've never seen it happen. The most I've seen is a little blue spark when discharging the tube before putting the anode back on (yes, always discharge a second time). Don't be surprised if you see nothing visible at all.
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That's all I had been using when discharging monitors. Correct me if I'm wrong but don't those high voltage probes have the capacity to hook into a multimeter so you can see how much voltage has been discharged? That's a cool feature to have I think. I had a G07 that would make a noticeable POP and spark every time I discharged it and it would do that even after the thing had been off for a few hours. (It's the one that always used to like to bite me) I don't know if that's an inherent trait of G07's (which I know don't self discharge) in general or just that particular one (which went bye-bye after I accidentally broke its neck one day)
ChadTower:
--- Quote from: orion on April 10, 2009, 02:52:45 pm ---That's all I had been using when discharging monitors. Correct me if I'm wrong but don't those high voltage probes have the capacity to hook into a multimeter so you can see how much voltage has been discharged?
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Yeah, that's what it does, it plugs into the DMM, you connect the other lead to the frame, and you can read the voltage decreasing on the DMM display. I'm betting the big part of the probe is just a resistor similar to what the manual process uses but is designed to protect the DMM as well as the frame mount components.
FrizzleFried:
Damn... i just noticed this thread. I am very sorry you're having issues Spyridon... I swear to you that I didn't have a single issue since the monitor was rebuilt... even the neckboard, while semi-loose, didn't seem to be loose enough to fall off (which, evidently was wrong). Luckily the WG6100 is pretty easy to work on once you get the knack of it...
I will monitor this thread and hopefully you'll find it to be something very simple/cheap to fix...
:-\
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