Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

Star Wars - fully working!

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Spyridon:

--- Quote from: ChadTower on April 01, 2009, 07:53:18 am ---
First thing you need to know, even before Level42's advice is that you discharge a vector differently than a raster.  You cannot just short the anode to the frame.  You have to put a decent resistor in line and do it more slowly.  A quick search should pull up the proper technique.

--- End quote ---

Yep, I was already aware of that but thanks for the reminder.

Spyridon:

--- Quote from: Level42 on April 01, 2009, 01:27:26 am ---1) Don't panic. Vectors are the easiest monitors to work on and there's plenty of knowledge around ;)
--- End quote ---
Okay....calming down

--- Quote ---2) Do you have any neckglow ?
--- End quote ---
Yes, I have neckglow

--- Quote ---3) Any LED activity on the deflection board ?
--- End quote ---
Yes, the led is lit and both of the leds on the LV6100 are lit.


--- Quote ---The fact that the neckboard needed to be fixed already indicates poor contact (pressure) between the pins and the neckboard connector but there can be a LOT of problems on the PCB's as well

Next on the suspect list are ALL the connectors on the deflection board. Even if they look OK, there can be breaks between the islands where the pins are soldered and the track.  Testing them properly means measuring between the pin itself and the next soldering island that the track connects to (not to it's own soldering island).

--- End quote ---
Haven't had time to look into any of the above yet. 

Level42:
Neck-glow is a good sign that usually indicates there are no problems in the HV section.

The LEDs on the LV6100 should be lit, but I think (not sure) that the LED on the deflection board should be off. Lit means that the spot killer kicked in IIRC. That happened all the time when I was having the mentioned connector problems. Try some gentle wiggling (GENTLE !) on all the connectors on the deflection PCB. If you see the spot-killer LED go on/off you found the cause....

O and why would you need to discharge the CRT when you're going to test on it ?  ::)

Discharging is only needed when you are going to be removing the anode cup. O and yes do not lick the area around the anode cup while working on the monitor  :laugh:

ChadTower:

--- Quote from: Level42 on April 02, 2009, 01:38:43 am ---O and why would you need to discharge the CRT when you're going to test on it ?  ::)

--- End quote ---


All people who don't know exactly which things to not brush your hand against should discharge the tube.  Those shocks don't come only from the anode.

Spyridon:

--- Quote from: Level42 on April 02, 2009, 01:38:43 am ---Neck-glow is a good sign that usually indicates there are no problems in the HV section.

The LEDs on the LV6100 should be lit, but I think (not sure) that the LED on the deflection board should be off. Lit means that the spot killer kicked in IIRC. That happened all the time when I was having the mentioned connector problems. Try some gentle wiggling (GENTLE !) on all the connectors on the deflection PCB. If you see the spot-killer LED go on/off you found the cause....
--- End quote ---

I will see if wiggling the connectors has any impact and let you know


--- Quote ---O and why would you need to discharge the CRT when you're going to test on it ?  ::)

Discharging is only needed when you are going to be removing the anode cup.
--- End quote ---

I wasn't planning on discharging the monitor (and even if I was, I couldn't because I don't currently have the proper tool to do it.


--- Quote ---O and yes do not lick the area around the anode cup while working on the monitor  :laugh:

--- End quote ---

but doesn't licking it provide better suction? 

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