Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Star Wars - fully working!
Level42:
--- Quote from: Kevin Mullins on April 18, 2009, 12:50:00 pm ---The key thing to keep in mind when you find a trace burnt like that..... "something" caused it.
--- End quote ---
I'll tell you what caused it: Terrible production quality....
If you compare it to the pics I added to this thread you can see that it's simple production issues all around.
They seriously screwed up on the 6100 PCBs.
The HV board seems to be the best of the three. I re-soldered every single soldering on the neckboard. I wanted to do the same thing on the deflection board, but the way the tracks responded to the re-soldering of the header connectors made me quickly change my mind.
O and Spyridon....looks like you need a new tube ?
Spyridon:
--- Quote from: Level42 on April 18, 2009, 01:50:28 pm ---O and Spyridon....looks like you need a new tube ?
--- End quote ---
It does have a burn in hole in the center. You don't notice it while playing until the Death Star blows up. Then it becomes obvious
ChadTower:
You don't need a new tube... at some point it was run with the spot killer disabled... and now you have a spot. Shouldn't be a problem unless you're super anal about that spot.
I don't usually spend much time looking for cold joints. I just start reflowing everything I can get the tip on and add some new solder to anything questionable. Way too many will be undetectable by eye and you can head off the next failure by doing it now to everything else.
Level42:
Well, seeing how perfect Spryridon's work is I'd assume he would find the spot annoying. I know I would.
And it's a standard CRT, nothing special about it.
OK, gotta have to learn how to converge a new one.
I'm kind of planning on making a video about it. It's really NOT that hard, you just have to have someone show it....
But I agree, if you can live with it, it's fine. First get the thing running I guess....
The thing about reflowing is that it won't help if you have breaks like these:
You will have to bridge the gap in some way. I used a piece of solid core wire for that. I simple looked to what that track went and made a large enough piece of wire to bridge the entire track.
ChadTower:
--- Quote from: Level42 on April 18, 2009, 07:39:07 pm ---Well, seeing how perfect Spryridon's work is I'd assume he would find the spot annoying. I know I would.
And it's a standard CRT, nothing special about it.
--- End quote ---
That a 100 degree tube, right? Aren't the rasters almost all 90 degrees? It's the Amp that uses 90 degree tubes, I think, not the WG.
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