Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
A New Hope... "I knew you could do it!"
RetroACTIVE:
--- Quote from: m_mcgover on November 06, 2009, 08:19:14 pm ---@Spy - Do you have a link to the TO220 resistors? Or some extras for sale? I'd like to pick up 4 for my 2 HV PCBs...
Thanks!
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Here you go: Mouser #684-MP930-50
RetroACTIVE:
--- Quote from: Level42 on November 06, 2009, 06:09:58 pm ---I hope the heat will go into the heat-sink mostly, as the only doubt I have about this set-up is that the TO-220's are pretty close to the caps.....
No other way then to try it I guess :)
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The back side of the package is exposed ceramic... and I'm betting on the size of that aluminum heat sink to spread the heat well enough... and the cooling fan of course... but like you said... we'll see ;D
RetroACTIVE:
Convergence and purity... wow... has this been a real treat!
Actually, convergence... not so bad... purity is a pain (at least for me)!
Couple of things I've learned...
#1 Placement of the convergence magnets... the manual says approximately 2" from the start of the neck glass... for me, I needed to add about another 1/4", further up on the tube neck for the magnets to have the greatest range of adjustment.
#2 Expect to repeat the whole procedure many times... for me it was pass #3. I'm sure experienced wizards could do it first shot... but there are so so many variables its hard to imagine that it would not take at least 2 passes no matter what.
#3 Adjusting blue and red convergence (magenta cross hatch)... rings would not get it "perfect" across the whole display. I used the rings to get it close then adjusted the position of the yoke to fix the peripheral convergence... this seemed to work very well.
#4 Color purity was/is still a problem overall. Moving the yoke forward and backward along the neck affects the purity of the colors... It is set to "optimal" using the green cross hatch pattern... too close to the tube and you end up with red and blue on either sides of the display... too far away the same thing... you are supposed to put the yoke in the middle where green is "pure" across the whole display.
With my setup I can't seem to get purity balance... I always seem to have a little purity problem in the top left and bottom right which are at odds with each other... I move the yoke away from the tube the top left gets better and the bottom right gets worse... towards the tube... vice versa.
And I've managed to stay safe and not get electrocuted... although I've felt a bit of a static charge here and there.
And those TO-220 resistors work fantastic... the HV heat sink is slightly warm to touch (I'm guessing 110-ish deg F)...and the caps are not even remotely affected by the heat... the deflection board is actually much much hotter than the HV board at this point. I ran this for several hours 4+... aligning and playing the game with several death star explosions and the temp remains fairly constant. I'm going to scab a thermocouple and hook it up to the fluke to get a real number (out of curiosity)
Not sure how I'm going to get this purity issue resolved... any thoughts?
"Almost there..."
RetroACTIVE:
I'm done!... I was able to get this thing converged and the purity adjusted as well... for the most part it is perfect!... I'll post a few pics asap.
After seeing both the WG and Amp... there is a HUGE difference between the two. Of course game play is no better... but the medium res tube and the speed of the display is very noticeable. I'd say you'd have to be visually impared to not notice the difference between the two!
Putting together a monitor from scratch is not a whole heck of a lot of fun... It took me many many many many tries. I'd say I had it adjusted properly several times but purposely did it over again to be sure I was able to get the best possible outcome. It was a lot of work... I probably would never do this again... but who knows.
Level42:
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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