Author Topic: Pac Man 'Mini' cab project. (Read 21092 times)

Level42 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 15, 2009, 07:18:09 pm »

orion · « **Reply #41 on:** April 15, 2009, 11:38:03 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on April 15, 2009, 10:05:36 am

Holy cow...I've never seen this "steel effect" paint. That's awesome. I'm guessing it's not available in the US.

SirPeale, (yea I got it right this time!!!) I was wondering this myself. It did give me the idea of trying Thomas Liquid Stainless Steel on coin door parts like this. It's basically a paint that has stainless steel in it. Check it out, it's not horribly expensive.
http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/products.html

http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/learnhow.html

Pacman83..... Dude this is awesome!!!! Job well done!

Mauzy · « **Reply #42 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:28:01 am »

Quote from: orion on April 15, 2009, 11:38:03 pm

Quote from: SirPeale on April 15, 2009, 10:05:36 am
Holy cow...I've never seen this "steel effect" paint. That's awesome. I'm guessing it's not available in the US.

SirPeale, (yea I got it right this time!!!) I was wondering this myself. It did give me the idea of trying Thomas Liquid Stainless Steel on coin door parts like this. It's basically a paint that has stainless steel in it. Check it out, it's not horribly expensive.
http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/products.html

http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/learnhow.html

Pacman83..... Dude this is awesome!!!! Job well done!

Wow. I have to try that stuff. I have two Midway doors that look great except for the rusty reject switches and dull entry chutes...

Pacman83 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:33:17 am »

Thanks for all the positive comments guys

Level42 · « **Reply #44 on:** April 16, 2009, 12:16:28 pm »

Truly, this looks better than new....

One thing: What Midway coin door plate did you use. AS ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 16, 2009, 03:34:36 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on April 16, 2009, 12:16:28 pm

Truly, this looks better than new....

One thing: What Midway coin door plate did you use. AS ?

To be honest, I just ordered it from the net (arcadeshop) USA, I might still drill the 6 holes and pop rivet it as it was originally.

Edit - just realised, AS means arcadeshop ?

It was the gold one.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 16, 2009, 04:34:06 pm »

Had a bit of a 'eureka' moment last night.

I had to re-seal the shower cubicle and used some Unibond sealent. This stuff is VERY robust and seemed to have a similar consistency to the rubber used on the grommet on the Pac Cab. Hmmm...
I have used some to repair the one that was split and it looks and more importantly 'feels' great !
It centres very well and seems very tough. I'll use it and see how it turns out. Never know, may be a solution to old / damaged ones.

The C/P was finished today along with the joystick.
The component parts were all cleaned / polished and then assembled using new hardware where applicable.
I had to mask out the cab in order to finish the black edging up to the laminate where the T - moulding met, just to make it look spot on.

The electronics were also installed and the wiring harness sorted out. I have taken some detailed shots as I went today, so you can follow if needed. The PCB was fitted after the carriers were screwed on.

QUESTION - Which way around does the harness fit to the PCB ? I have no idea as there wasn't a PCB when purchased.

Cheers guys.

OTTOgd · « **Reply #47 on:** April 17, 2009, 12:39:45 pm »

Wow. just wow.

Inspiring work. I can hardly wait to see you finish. I hope you post some video of this treasure when you're done.

Level42 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 17, 2009, 01:49:27 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on April 16, 2009, 03:34:36 pm

Quote from: Level42 on April 16, 2009, 12:16:28 pm
Truly, this looks better than new....

One thing: What Midway coin door plate did you use. AS ?

To be honest, I just ordered it from the net (arcadeshop) USA, I might still drill the 6 holes and pop rivet it as it was originally.

Edit - just realised, AS means arcadeshop ? It was the gold one.

Yep I meant arcadeshop. I can understand since you probably ordered more stuff there.
However, looking how absolutely perfectionist you are I suggest you get ThisOldGame's version of the plate. It's ten times as nice....it's a real metal plate unlike AS's version and the artwork is insanely much better repro'ed.

The rivets are a PITA. I have popped them off and glued back in the remaining top to get the best possible look.
Some people have searched long and hard but never really found a perfect replacement IIRC.

B.t.w. what's that white stuff on the joystick grommet ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 17, 2009, 02:47:13 pm »

Hi Level42,

See the top of the post and it explains the 'white stuff'

orion · « **Reply #50 on:** April 17, 2009, 05:26:50 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on April 16, 2009, 04:34:06 pm

QUESTION - Which way around does the harness fit to the PCB ? I have no idea as there wasn't a PCB when purchased.

Looks to me judging by the pics that you got it right, but I am assuming that the wire color coding on a Mini Pac Man from Europe is the same as a stand up in the U.S. Your board looks identical to mine so it should be. Just to be sure here is a link to a Pac Man pinout (if you haven't found this yet)

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Pac.html

Pacman83 · « **Reply #51 on:** April 19, 2009, 04:04:50 am »

Thanks Orion. It is correct.
I just need to get the monitor sorted out now as there is no picture, just a 'raining' effect of Pac Man 'blue'.

I'm going to take it to a monitor specialist and have the cap kit & new Flyback fitted at the same time.

When the picture is sorted out, I'll fit the final parts and it'll be good to go !

Level42 · « **Reply #52 on:** April 19, 2009, 07:14:23 am »

Looks like a sync problem to me.

SirPeale · « **Reply #53 on:** April 19, 2009, 09:31:28 am »

Quote from: Level42 on April 19, 2009, 07:14:23 am

Looks like a sync problem to me.

Agreed. Adjust your H and V hold and see if it changes to a more stable picture.

Level42 · « **Reply #54 on:** April 19, 2009, 02:32:17 pm »

Looks like H and V sync reversed to me....

Pacman83 · « **Reply #55 on:** April 19, 2009, 03:30:39 pm »

Thanks for the information.

I have followed the instructions and checked the wiring to the video inputs. They are different on mine, someone has possibly been fooling around in the past and messed it up.
Anyway, I have a picture !! There is no blue though and therefore no maze as well. The dots are there and the ghosts etc, but no maze. This must be something to do with the BLUE Video feed.

On the Pinout diagram, Video BLUE is a YELLOW & BLACK wire (Position 'U' on the Parts side).
I have NO Yellow & Black wire present.

The other wires are correct I assume. There are some screen shots sent as well.
I have attached some pictures of my harness. I have separated the sides as well so you can look at the sides individually as there are a couple of colours that don't match the Pin location diagram.

At least I can see a result.

Regards
Jon.

Level42 · « **Reply #56 on:** April 19, 2009, 03:49:36 pm »

So were the syncs reversed ?

First turn down the brightness ! You can see the retrace lines across the screen, not good.

Turn the "Screen" pot on the HVT back a bit (the one that doesn't say Focus

)....

Level42 · « **Reply #57 on:** April 19, 2009, 04:09:24 pm »

Check out the pic of you monitor connector.

Connections are: (from up to down):
Red
Green
Blue
Ground

The blue terminal has a a blue/black wire and on the other pic I can see it going to pin U so that's fine.
The other wire colors look to match too.

Just found out that Pac Man outputs a composite sync so it was probably on the wrong pin earlier ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #58 on:** April 19, 2009, 05:25:46 pm »

Level 42,

I think they were. I am a complete novice with electronics.

I was just following these guidance notes -

Ok, let's hook it up.

Board edge connector pin T goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 1

Board edge connector pin 16 goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 2

Board edge connector pin U goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 3

Board edge connector pin S goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 4

Board edge connector pin 17 goes to 3 pin monitor header pin 2 and is jumpered to pin 3.

It should look like the first picture on this page of Bob Roberts.

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/sync.html

I'll follow your guidance and try and turn the brightness down, but I still can't understand why there's no maze and the colour is still wrong ?

Level42 · « **Reply #59 on:** April 19, 2009, 05:54:41 pm »

Yes that's all correct. Not sure about the sync wires though (edge connector pin 17) but since it's working fine now, leave it....

There are many things that can cause the colors to work or not. I'd like to see a pic when you've turned the screen pot down a bit, it's hard to tell what colors are there at all.

It could be potmeters that are set wrong, bad solderings, bad caps, bad traces, you name it. Not to discourage you, it could also be pretty simple.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #60 on:** April 20, 2009, 05:22:11 am »

Yes, I turned the brightness down, but it doesn't make any difference to the colours at all. Still no 'blue' maze outline and the colours are still not right.

I'm getting the cap kit fitted soon and I have a new Flyback transformer as well.

What I did notice today, I played the first board (be it with no maze outline) and when the board was cleared, the maze 'flashes' white 3 times (as it should).
It was then I can see the actual maze. So, the blue element is missing, amongst other colours. They seem mixed up to me.

This monitor thing is turning out to be WAY more difficult than the restoration itself ! $:-\$

Level42 · « **Reply #61 on:** April 20, 2009, 04:48:29 pm »

Yeah, shadow should be the red ghost. Looks kinda yellow now....

SirPeale · « **Reply #62 on:** April 21, 2009, 05:18:25 pm »

Turn the screen control on the flyback down a hair to get rid of those retrace lines.

As for your missing color, did I read correctly that the blue wire is missing altogether from the harness? Then you'll need that wire.

If that's not the case, you can swap inputs to see if you can get blue to pop up.

I suppose a board issue is also possible.

Level42 · « **Reply #63 on:** April 21, 2009, 06:43:03 pm »

Look at the pics peale, looks like the blue wire is fine, like all the others.....

Pacman83 · « **Reply #64 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:22:38 pm »

Here's the latest on the monitor.

All the video wires have been tested for continuity to the board and are fine.
The wires have been connected as per Electrohome instructions.

Here's the best picture I can obtain -

As you can see, there's no red and the colours are not right.
Any ideas ? Is it now time to send the tube for repair if it's repairable ?

Cheers.

SirPeale · « **Reply #65 on:** April 28, 2009, 11:24:49 am »

Wait...first there was no blue, now there's no red?

Do you have another game you can test the monitor out on?

Have you swapped inputs like I suggested?

Level42 · « **Reply #66 on:** April 28, 2009, 01:06:31 pm »

javeryh · « **Reply #67 on:** April 28, 2009, 02:19:24 pm »

In attract mode why does it also go 200 400 200 400 when Pac-man turns around to eat the ghosts?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #68 on:** April 28, 2009, 03:16:21 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on April 28, 2009, 02:19:24 pm

In attract mode why does it also go 200 400 200 400 when Pac-man turns around to eat the ghosts?

VERY WELL SPOTTED !!!

I think there may be an issue with the PCB then. $:-\$

RayB · « **Reply #69 on:** April 29, 2009, 11:31:51 am »

Umm, maybe you know enough about monitors already but I'll say it anyways, in case it wasn't obvious: Whites and grays are made up of all three colors. For example, low intensity R + same amount of G + same amount of blue will give a gray, while high intensity of all three gives a white. To me, your graphics look like there's high drive on the colors to the point where maybe it looks like no red, but really everything is overdriven.

Check your color drive pots. Set to half way point. Then adjust the main board pots. Then tweak drive pots again... It can take a lot of subtle tweaking, especially if your pots are old and defective.

Spyridon · « **Reply #70 on:** June 17, 2009, 05:32:14 pm »

Any updates on this?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #71 on:** June 19, 2009, 03:35:44 pm »

It's been a while since posting last I know.
I have a monitor on it's way from the U.S soon, a wells Gardner 13" (4800 series) with a fantastic condition tube. It is being re-capped etc by a friend and then sent over to the U.K.

In the mean time, I picked up my joystick bits from the U.S when I was at Funspot in N.H.
I beat my 1983 score there as well LIVE ! Got to the splitscreen in 4hr 55min.
New fibre leaf switches and grommet. Feels GREAT now !!

I'll be updating soon as the monitor's here ........

Level42 · « **Reply #72 on:** June 19, 2009, 05:42:32 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on June 19, 2009, 03:35:44 pm

It's been a while since posting last I know.
I have a monitor on it's way from the U.S soon, a wells Gardner 13" (4800 series) with a fantastic condition tube. It is being re-capped etc by a friend and then sent over to the U.K.

You could just as well have picked up a Commodore 1084 monitor for a couple of pounds (or the Philips equivalent of that).......but OK, here's to dedication !

Pacman83 · « **Reply #73 on:** June 20, 2009, 12:03:17 pm »

To be honest, I wasn't that happy NOT having an Electrohome monitor (to keep it authentic) but I suppose the Wells Gardner one is second best.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #74 on:** July 04, 2009, 05:45:25 pm »

The Wells Gardner monitor is in and looks great. NO screenburn whatsoever and it was capped etc by a friend in the US. I have the bezel and glass fitted and I am just waiting to fit a new board edge connector, as the old one is faulty.

I'll post some more pictures as soon as I can, it's worth the wait guys, It's nearly there ...

Pacman83 · « **Reply #75 on:** August 02, 2009, 11:50:12 am »

I had some REAL issues with the electrics ......

I changed the edge connector for a good quality type as some of the connections (crimped type) were coming away and it was about time it had what it deserved.

The PCB was returned from the US (again) as the pisture was just scrambled up and the board was suspected to be the cause. It was tested on a Pac cab there and worked 100%

This is what I saw .

It seemed then, there was a power issue present so I had to do some checks. I am a complete novice here.

I decided to remove the power transformers from the base of the cab in order to carry out a voltage test and test the fuses.
I carried out the fuse test - OK
I carried out the voltage test and it read 11.8v & 6.9v output at the Main transformer. All correct .....

Then I looked at the screen and to my disbelief, the attract screen was working !!!!

Blinky was invisible though and the colours weren't right. I pressed 1 player and tried it out .....
It worked well, but there was no 'up' input from the joystick. I checked the colour and it was WHITE/RED.
I traced the wire on the pin chart and I had it soldered onto the VIDEO - RED/WHITE. Wrong way around .....

That's why there was no red in the colours as it was connected to UP on the joystick pin of the connector. After re-soldering the 2 wires to the correct pins, the cab seems to work great. It has been running for 3 hours now and I have had a little practice. The contacts for the joystick need tweaking a little, but it's VERY good news for me.

The cab is now WORKING guys, after being nearly buried in March, it's now as good as new. Words can't sum up how delighted I am at the moment. I've spent a great deal of time and energy in this project and it's all worth the while now. I've attached a short video clip to show it running and will post a high quality video when the cab is completely finished.

VERY HAPPY DAYS !!!! Grin

Level42 · « **Reply #76 on:** August 02, 2009, 01:47:43 pm »

Congratulations, you should be very proud of it !

Hope this tastes like more cabs for you

Epyx · « **Reply #77 on:** August 02, 2009, 01:52:52 pm »

Congrats! Fantastic job!

Pete Rittwage · « **Reply #78 on:** August 17, 2009, 09:59:58 pm »

Really, really nice work!

One thing, though. Doesn't the original Pac-Man cabaret have the little red buttons for Start1/Start2 instead of the big white buttons like you have?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 20, 2009, 11:22:20 am »

Quote from: Pete Rittwage on August 17, 2009, 09:59:58 pm

Really, really nice work!

One thing, though. Doesn't the original Pac-Man cabaret have the little red buttons for Start1/Start2 instead of the big white buttons like you have?

... No

Even the parts & operating guide shows the original with white buttons, the exact same as the Upright. Here's the finished pictures.


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