Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Pac Man 'Mini' cab project.
Pacman83:
It's lamination time. ;)
I was faced with a veriety of methods of doing this. The one I opted for was what I felt more comfortable with, considering my limited experience in this area.
The laminate was lay flat and the cab was then lowered onto it. After careful positioning, I drew around the cab as a template with a pencil held on it's tip (to allow for an overlap) then removed the cab.
Using a brand new Stanley blade, I positioned a metal straight edge along the straight lines and scored VERY CAREFULLY !! You MUST wear gloves when doing this as one slip will cost you a serious injury.
When the straight scores are done, you can then carefully go over your marks a few times then the laminate will break off easily. Care must be taken on the curve as this is all done 'freehand'. Patience is a vital key in this job.
The new laminate side can then be placed on top of the cab (now lay flat) and carefully positioned. I used a masking tape 'hinge' on the longest edge (the back) to join the laminate to the cab. It can then be hinged backwards, knowing that when you're ready to lower it, it will match the side perfectly.
The edge of the laminate and the cab is then painted with the contact adhesive, I then used the spray alternative to cover the rest of the surfaces. Both laminate & cab must be covered with a layer.
NOTE - You must be certain in your mind that the two sides are lined up before they come together. As the laminate is lowered, use one hand to slowly press down near the 'hinge' as you check it's uniform. Once these surfaces come together, there's NO way you're going to reposition it if you get the positioning wrong.
It's then smoothed out and lay on it's side to weigh down the join during the curing process (about 2 hours). I then used a 'ba$tard' cut file to file the excess by hand using a slow even stroke, only applying pressure on the forward stroke, so not to splinter the plastic side of the laminate. You'll see in the 1st picture the file and small wire brush. Make sure you clean the surface of the file from time to time as it clogs up with laminate dust and wear your mask.
This was a slow and laborious job, but worth the patience. Once done all round you can stand back and admire the finished side. Repeat to the other side and I have to do the front panel now.
javeryh:
Very impressive work! You worked some serious restoration kung-fu on that CP.
Any reason why you didn't cut the laminate about 1/2" oversize and then route it flush?
:cheers:
Pacman83:
--- Quote from: javeryh on March 30, 2009, 08:59:57 pm ---Very impressive work! You worked some serious restoration kung-fu on that CP.
Any reason why you didn't cut the laminate about 1/2" oversize and then route it flush?
:cheers:
--- End quote ---
I have a router and a straight cutting bit with a bearing guide, trouble is, I needed to clamp a wooden 'guide' to the edge of the cab for it to work properley and there's places on the cab where this is not possible. I suppose on a full size cab it would be a little more straightforward, but I aired on the side of safety as these sheets of Formica cost me £70 (or about $100) ;)
Level42:
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Fabulous work ! I much prefer the new formica style over the original, looks very tasteful !
The CP (and all the other metal parts) look great too, indeed amazing when compared with your starting point ! :applaud: :applaud:
Pacman83:
Alright, now to finish off the lamination. ;)
The front was relatively straightforward compared to the sides. I had to carefully measure the exact dimensions of the front, in this case, 18" wide x 29.75" long.
I did this using a long steel rule, which I use also to cut the straight lines up against, again, remember that if you attempt this yourself, WEAR GLOVES !!
Anyway, the front was checked for any dust & crud, then painted with Contact adhesive (same for the laminate) right up to the edge. Don't worry if some excess squeezes out, you can deal with that later, but for now it's important to have bonding up to the very edge.
You'll notice that the edges of the cab are now protected by 'low tack' masking tape until the T-moulding arrives, that's to stop any accidents ! also, the inside edge of the sides are masked out to prevent the Contact adhesive from spoiling the black finish. as soon as the laminate is applied, remove this tape as it will be a bugger to remove when the adhesive cures.
The coin door was then cut out by hand after marking it from the inside with a pencil. After the two were brought together, lots of pressure is then applied to ensure good adhesion.
I've included a shot of the PCB (which arrived today)
I purchased it from a guy in New York called Slava Madrit. He has an advert on eBay and to sum things up, his service, comms and goods are SENSATIONAL ! Let me know if you need his details.
The T-moulding arrives soon along with leg levellers, new fuse holders & fuses, new Midway logo for the front of the coin door and a new cap kit for the monitor. :)
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