Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

Dig Dug Restoration by a Complete Noob

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Pop Culture Portal:
Man I've got alot to learn...

OK, here's the readings I get for each resistor:

R10 (1 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 1
R19 (1 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 1
R11 (10 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 9.9
R20 (10 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 9.7
R29 (10 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 11.2
R30 (10 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 12.3
R4 (100 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 99.3
R12 (100 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 99
R22 (100 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 99.2
R27 (1k Ohm +/- 5%) - reads .988
R28 (1k Ohm +/- 5%) - reads .994
R13 (10k Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 9.92
R14 (10k Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 9.92
R1 (270 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads .265
R3 (33 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 32.8
R6 (3.9k Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 2.69
R7 (7.5k Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 3.09
R9 (220 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads .202
R21 (220 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads .218
R5 (2.7 Ohm +/- 5%) - reads 2.7
R24 (.1 Ohm +/- 3%) - reads .1
R8 (1k Ohm) - reads 1 (I'm not sure if I checked this one correctly)

If I'm doing it right this time, it looks like R6, R7 and R9 aren't within the +/- 5% range and should be replaced.  Is that right?

SirPeale:
Did you get these values from the schematic, or from the resistors themselves?

I'd be less concerned with the values of the resistors and more concerned with the output the AR/II is putting out.  Measure this AFTER recapping, however.  But if you're really concerned, replace away.

Pop Culture Portal:
Yup, all the values came from the schematic book.  Think I'll recap first before replacing any of those resistors.  Cap kit for the AR has been ordered from Bob Roberts.  Now for the wait.

Level42:
Those values look OK to me. I assume that you've measured across the resistors in circuit (without soldering one end loose). What you will measure then is not only that resistor but (depending on how it is positioned in the circuit) also other parts that may be in parallel with it.

As you can see, most values are very close though. Some of the others are a bit more off because of that reason probably so don't worry about it.

If you really want to accurately measure a resistance you will have to solder one leg loose, lift it up and then measure it.

However, I really don't think there's a need to do that. Like Peale says, the only often failing resistor is R29/R30 and it's because of it's "position" in the circuit.

Replacing the caps is something you should do as a precaution, but I don't think the real problem is there. It's more likely that one of the transistors has gone.

If you ordered the full repair kit for the AR-II and replace all parts, there's a _very_ big chance it will be OK again.

See some AR-II work I did on my Missile Command here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=81554.msg865768#msg865768
That was actually the only AR-II that I've had failing.

I assume you also ordered a cap-kit for the monitor while ordering from Bob ?? :D

Pop Culture Portal:
Yes, I did measure in circuit and I did remember to order the monitor cap kit (at the last moment!).

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