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Project: Mobile Mame - almost finished

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SavannahLion:

--- Quote from: MrDummy on March 09, 2009, 12:47:04 pm ---
--- Quote from: swaffar on March 09, 2009, 06:34:24 am ---are you sure you want the player 1 and 2 joysticks angled like that?  i think those might feel a little awkward.

--- End quote ---
I have calculated every player has around 50 cm room to play behind the CP panel. With 10 degrees, both players don't bump each other.
And it's also better for your hand control with angled buttons and joystick.
The case itself is still 65 cm wide.

If you don't angle buttons and joystick with 1,2 metres with CP panel for 4 players, you have trouble with players. 3rd and 4nd player are also calculated with 50 cm moving room and that results in around 40 degrees angle at both far sides.

What is more, not-angled joysticks plays not nice in the game if your body is angled in front of screen. A basic design fault in some DIY arcade cases for 2 players.

--- End quote ---

I'm not trying to debate with your anything, but can you run this logic by me again? I just want to better understand the theory you're operating on. You're actually counting on P1 & P2 not standing straight? I understand that you consider straight P1/P2 sticks a design fault of DIY cabinets, but those design choices were arrived at at something like 36 years worth of control panel design experimentation with some truly carpel tunnel inducing designs. Most cabinet builders are merely following a familiar and established design stemming from the last twenty years or so.

Bender:
Yeah, that slight angle to P1 and P2 are going to play very strange, It's not like your looking at the joystick when you play, your looking at the screen

let us know how that works out

MrDummy:
Well, it looks first my project is stalled because there is no much update on my blog.
That is because i speed up a bit with my project.
And finally just in time, i finished the project for 99% before the Animecon 2009 in Almelo (Netherlands) starts.
The cabinet is installed in the gameroom and is working very well. I have many positive feedback from some people.

So, i show you now the pics of the almost finished cabinet.

The whole cabinet.


The cabinet in transport mode, which means upper part is placed behind the lower part case.


Inside the lower part case, i can put there my controlpanels.

Specifications:
- the cabinet is 1,60 height, with 80 cm upper and lower case parts.
- the control panel is divided in 3 parts, which 3th and 4nd player controlpanels are easy removed. Without both side panels, you can use flipper buttons.
- switchable marquee light
- Switchable five 15,000 mcd white leds above in marquee part are installed for lighting control panel.
- transportable at 12 cm big wheels for better rolling.
- the handle is extending for transport
- extendable support handle behind against falling back
- side doors lower part case is also for supporting cabinet
- Two 2 lightgun ports (they're usb ports), lightguns are from EMS Lightgun II, with special built-in IR leds in the screenbezel.
- the screenbezel is rotateable on the fly from horizontal to vertical mode.
- Runs at P4 2,4 GHz cpu and Ati videocard. In the future i buy C2D motherboard for better encoding speed.

Oh yes, it's also useable as bartop. The upper part works without lower part. :)

Weights:
- upper case with screen and CPU: 33,7 kg
- lower case with doors: 31 kg
- support plate: 1 kg
- sidepanels: 5 kg
- main CP: 5 kg
- some lightgun and another parts: 0,5 kg
Total transport weight: 76,2 kg

It's a bit transportable if you take upper and lower part separated in the home, and it rolls easy around on 2 big wheels. :)

And some action shots:


Yes, it's on Animecon installed in the gameroom. My cabinet is at left side.


4 players playing at my cabinet. You can see the led lights on the panels.

You can see some pictures at my blog site http://mrdummy.net/mame/

spitmuckraker:
I actually was thinking of something along the same lines of what you are doing with the control panel part. (No way of proving it other than crappy drawing of it)
I was planning to do the bd25 cable but on the four corners of the connector I was just going to run power for 4 different LEDs.
I figure that if I don't get a good connection I wont see the LEDs light up on the control panel for the 3rd and 4th player
I am using 2" square tubing for my  3rd and 4th player hook ups only because I got kids under two running around and I didnt want them to be hanging on it and having it break. I figure it will fall over on them before it will break.
I do like the 10 degree offset and the 40 degree offset on the different players.
If I was better at being motivated and writing up plans I think i would have something similar on the control panel part

Yvan256:
Really cool cabinet, especially since you made it a 4-players cabinet but still portable. Good idea about the angles for the players, I'm correcting one of my project right now for those angles, thank you.

P.S.: why a widescreen display? Almost all arcade games need a 4:3 display, so I'm just wondering...

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