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Street Fighter 4 conversion
Namco:
--- Quote from: RetroGreg on March 03, 2009, 03:21:06 pm ---Does anybody have a link for those crimp connectors AND the tool used?
--- End quote ---
The packaging on the pins say:
HiDen Crimp Female Pins for Housing. DHD-PIN/F-HR-P1C.
Female HD-10 $4.49
DHD-P/F-H-P1C
High Density Female
RS232 Socket Pins
Gold Flash, QTY:100
The tool is:
HiDen Insert/Extract Tool for Crimp Pins
DHD-IN-EXT-H-P
DSUB HD PIN $3.99
High Density Pin Tool
Insertion/Extraction
DHD-IN-EXT-H-P
Pan Pacific.
But honestly, I really didn't need the tool. The pins snap in easy enough and stay in when I plug in the DB25.
I don't have the info on the DB25 shell that they go into, but I've seen it often at the electronics store.
Kaytrim:
--- Quote from: RetroGreg on March 03, 2009, 03:21:06 pm ---Does anybody have a link for those crimp connectors AND the tool used?
--- End quote ---
Here is a link to some of the crimp tools.
http://www.google.com/products?q=crimp+tool+d-sub&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=HZWtSd7XJoyPngeCj-W3Bg&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=1&ct=title
Octo:
The tool is good to have in case you make a mistake and need to remove a pin. I used molex connectors on my first CP and a couple wires pulled out of the pins. Had to butcher it with pliers to get the pins back out :timebomb:
That looks really nice, always good to have quick disconnects too, rather than take everything apart to remove one piece...
Namco:
The next chore was getting the Xbox crammed into the cab with the computer. I picked up a VGA cable to connect it to the monitor, and plugged in another powerstrip to power the lights and monitor. My power solution has to be completely reworked because it all relied on 12v voltage from the computer to power the relay and coin slot lights. With the computer off, I have to figure out another way to switch on the relay and power the coin slot lights.
Also since the monitor already had a cable with a male end, I had to go to the store to pickup a VGA gender changer to make the video connection. Here's a shot of the mockup with a VGA converter standing in for the Xbox VGA cable:
Here’s a shot SFIV running on the cab in gloriously blurry 480i. Playing the first time, the game convinces you to play with challenger mode turned on. On my first 5 games resulted in embarrassing losses. I only played 5 games. I think the loading screen was at most 5 seconds before some SFIV ace joined in and proceeded to pummel me.
To connect to the Internet, I have a Netgear Powerline adapter that I can use. It doesn’t work when connected to the power strips in the cab, but works on the power strip just outside the cab. Maybe it’s the fluorescent lights and 12v relay.
Namco:
My next steps are to cleanup the insides a bit and redo the power. I might also get rid of the iPAC because the Xbox controllers are compatible with Windows so they can do double duty as MAME controllers.
Stuff I'll add soon/someday
* 12 Power brick to power the coin slot lights
* A few SPDT switches to toggle between using the coin slot 12v power brick as the relay power source, or the computer's 12V rail.
* A KVM that will let me switch the USB inputs and Video between the Xbox and Computer
* Headphone jack mod
I have this idea to add a headphone jack to my control panel that switches between the Xbox Live headset and the standard headphone jack. I already have the holes from a few missing carriage bolts that I can use to mount the headphone jack. I plan on using a jack that has the switch that toggles between the speakers and headphones so when nothing's plugged into it, sound will come out of the speakers correctly. Something like this:
EDIT: I'll have to change the diagram a bit as 4PDT switches are hard to find, at least in the size and price I want. I'll make it two DPDT switches instead.
EDIT2: Found some cheap 4PDT switches at allelectronics.com. 3 bucks each.
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