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Help: Gorf Joystick Hack
D_Harris:
--- Quote from: SavannahLion on February 26, 2009, 11:56:19 pm ---
--- Quote from: D_Harris on February 26, 2009, 11:41:49 pm ---
--- Quote from: SavannahLion on February 26, 2009, 11:11:21 pm ---
--- Quote from: D_Harris on February 26, 2009, 08:17:46 pm ---I did check the Wiki link. That's why I noticed that there are three "missing" pins. But the PCB is clean and it doesn't look as though there were ever any pins there. And looking closely at the PCB, those three empty holes(1, 2, and 3) from J2 are connected to their corresponding solder points(5, 4, and 3) at J1.
But since J2 obviously goes the the game PCB, I can't see how the trigger ever could have worked.
Nevertheless, I assume that I'd have to solder leads to the empty holes 3 and 7 at J2, Solder leads to solder points 1 and 3, or just find a way to connect directly to the connector for J1
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That glob of wires on J1 might not be original. Looks like there's two connectors there. It's possible J1 was simply bypassed.
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Not at all. I got continuity between pins #1 and #3 of J1 when I pressed the trigger.
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That's not what I meant. That signal has to get to the game PCB somehow. It looks like the photo sports extra wiring at the connector on J1. So even though the connector is "plugged" in, that signal isn't being utilized from J2 (no pins). So that small section between J1/J2 is being bypassed for some reason. A broken trace, cost overhead reduction, a lazy assembly man on a Friday, a hung over operator on a Monday, who knows? :dunno
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There are four leads that come down from the joystick. Two are for Lamp, one for trigger, and one for ground. So there is nothing extra there. But of course that still doesn't explain how they used the lamp and trigger with pins #1, #2, and #3 at J2. (Perhaps this joystick was never used for Gorf).
Anyway, by just running the trigger and ground to the appropriate leads from my controller I'll have "Fire" capability.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.