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Wooden Candy/Astro City **Updated 16JUN10 [99% Complete]**
Sosetsuken:
To go to the latest update click HERE [ 16JUN10 ]
Hey Guys,
Been on this forum for a long time and announced a project a little while ago that got scrapped due to time and money. Over the last few weeks i've been getting together all the plans for my new cab, and sent them to my brother in Brisbane (Australia). Hes a Cabinet Maker by trade so he very quickly and professionally whipped up all the pieces that we'd need to build it, and this weekend has flown down here (Melbourne) and we've started making it! (Finally)
I actually got rough dimensions from Spot's Wooden Cab here: http://www.aussiearcade.com.au/showthread.php?t=6932 My brother modified it a bit for the TV and control panel sizes, and the space I had to put it in.
Unfortunately my brother made all the pieces at his workshop is brisbane, so I have no photos of that, just these here :/
He got here last night and had all the pieces wrapped up, but we had a bit to much catching up (alcohol) and decided to start on it today. So without further stalling i present my Wooden Candy/Astro City cabinet Custom: (Excuse the roughness of the photos, i'm useless with cameras)
More adjustments
Naked from the back, nothing mounted
Standing up, construction of cabinet nearly finished. (Although cats licking itself, framed and all :laugh2: )
She's a beauty!
As you can see the screen and light box have been recessed on the back to allow for the perspex to slot right in.
My brother making up the speaker/lightbox shelf with dividers so light doesn't come throught the speaker box's.
Shelf Mounted for the TV.
TV In for measuring perspex black borders.
TV In with brace, for testing.
Looking good! (The perspex will have a black border that will cover the tv, and only the screen will show through!)
Control panel on order for machine
Todo List:
* Finish Bogging and filling Gaps
* Sanding it down
* Paint with Primer x2 (Light Sand inbetween)
* Paint with Enamel While x2
* Install Perspex over screen and light box (no marquee until it arrives)
* Install & Wire up control Panel
* Install Computer
* Wire up Speakers and Light box
* Re-Install TV
* Move it upstairs :(
I'm thinking I might install the TV and Computer when it is already upstairs.
I'm using a laptop with VGA Out, to go to SCART on the TV wired as RGB for Arcade goodness :)
Laptop is a 1.7ghz Centrino with 1gb ram, Radeon 9700 Mobility with a custom nLited Windows XP Professional. Hyperspin FE with Mame and NullDC.
Well thats all for now, more updates tommorow!
Cyas.
Gatsu:
is there gonna be a back panel on that bad boy?
Its looking really sweet man. After Im done with my lindberg cab, I'll probably be building one of these as well. I just really dig Japanese style arcade cabs.
Sosetsuken:
Hey Gatsu thanks for the compliments :) Yeah it will have a back panel eventually but probably not until a long time after the final thing is finished as it will have a permanent home in my Game room, back to the wall ;)
EDIT: Gatsu, i see with your custom Godhands (very sexy!) you use a wood top panel with Sanwa buttons/Joystick. How does this work? I have only seen the Clip in buttons that need a thin metal plate. I'm interested because the Control panel i've ordered is $300.00!! And the parts 12x Sanwa/Seibatsu Buttons + 2 Start buttons and 2 JLF's is less than half that price. I would like to know how you mount your buttons and joytstick in mdf? Thanks mate.
EDIT 2: Just a general Question to anyone familiar with hacking 360 pads. Whats the best route to go with this? I've hacked an official Microsoft Wired pad and it was a *BLEEEEEEEP*. The DPad's solder pads are so microscopic even a few degrees too much and they rip up. This cab will have the Laptop and will also house an Xbox 360, so i need to have both controls wired as 360 pads for Windows and the 360. Any advice is appreciated :)
Now for an Update:
Today was a marathon exercise in sanding. My brother and I spent all day sanding this sucker and still haven't got it to the priming ready state. Mostly the little bits that need to be hand sanded. Heres some pics:
Front looking good, just need to get at the marquee, speaker holes and where the screen connects to the control panel with sanding by hand :'(
Side angled shot of sanding
Upright once again to finish off what we could do with powertools
Perspex screen, now with 20% more black borders! (Also speaker cover material in the center).
Decided to hack up the Logitech 5.1 speakers and mount them properly (They actually pump out a LOT of good quality sound, Sub not shown)
Showing the half finished Light Box Marquee & Speaker shelf, decided to spray the speaker mounts black just incase you could see the wood through the speaker material.
Thats about it for today, Probably priming sometime this week when I have time as i'm back to Uni tommorow :-\
Thanks Guys.
Gatsu:
sanwa makes a type of button that are like the snap-in ones, but come with a threaded mounting nut that holds it in. You still have to router the wood kind of thin to make room for the nut, but its better than having to machine metal I think.
Though the snap-ins are WAY easier to deal with, replace and whatnot. So I'd stick with those.
for hacking 360 pads. I use the gamestop/madcatz brand 360 controller. It has a common ground and is alot easier to hack. No scraping or anything. The only issue is hacking the triggers. That requires a resistor soldered onto each trigger contact if you want to use those buttons.
wooowman93:
What kinda paint is that on the marquee