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| Easiest Dreamcast Gamepad Hack? |
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| Jack Burton:
They were proven to have lag at the shoryuken.com forums: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=4658793&postcount=24 |
| ViciousXUSMC:
--- Quote from: Jack Burton on February 10, 2009, 12:17:06 am ---They were proven to have lag at the shoryuken.com forums: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=4658793&postcount=24 --- End quote --- He kept the sensors attached, the new method is to short them out. I think thats the difference. One way or another I will found out first hand and can get back with my results. My picture I drew is not showing up for the wiring question so I think I need to go host it somewhere else. So this is what I was thinking off the top of my head: But I think I saw somewhere that you need to wire the power & ground of the controller & ipac together too? Also curious of the effect of haivng just one or both units powered at the same time. |
| ViciousXUSMC:
Update: Yes I found the source you need to wire the power source of the two PCB's together, the ground is already tied together in the block so thats ok. However this setup has one very big problem, you can only have one pluged in at a time, failure to do so means frying something. So I have labored over what I am going to do all night, I am going to spend more than I wanted and this is going to take a lot of work (hopefully I can solder good enough to do it and find the parts I need. Im going to go for a fully modular setup. Here is my battle plan _______________________________ Phase 1 Input 1.) Starting with the input source my arcade controls they will be wired like normal to a terminal block. 2.) From the terminal block I have 2 options find something like this: http://www.provantage.com/apc-0720~7ABLE14Q.htm and install it on a project box and wire the output from the termial block to that via soldering, or I see no flaw in just getting a pre-made cord like this: http://www.provantage.com/cables-go-06100~7CBTC006.htm cutting off one of the ends and wiring it to the terminal (I think this will be easier and save me one thing to solder) 3.) That input source will be going into this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10103&cs_id=1010305&p_id=1354&seq=1&format=2 Phase 2 PC Output 1.) First the PC connection get another project box and have one of those female DB25 gender adapters mounted to the outside of the box. 2.) Install the I-PAC and a terminal block in the project box, wire & solder the connections as needed. Phase 3 Dreamcast Output 1.) I need to padhack some dreamcast controllers, I have 4 of the originals on the way from ebay, same as the PC output just need a project box, some terminal strips and a DB25 connector and try to get it all together. When all is said and done I have a fully modular system that I can toggle on the fly with a switch box and have room left to grow. My problem is that I have no idea how hard it will be to hack the DC Pads (that looks pretty easy) and how hard it will be to solder the DB25 connectors (this looks rather hard and I am looking for recomendations on easy to solder DB25 connections) I am also concerned with finding the right size project boxes and all the parts nice and easy. Who knows what the total cost will be. Here i something that I would really like: http://www.rs-485.com/daqaddonw.asp?record=18 A terminal block connected to a DB25 already so no soldering and easy wire swap if needed but its soooo expensive. Anybody know where to find something like that that is sanely priced? Edit: $18 - http://www.rs-485.com/daqaddonw.asp?record=16# Thats something I may have to think about.... Save the cost of soldering stuff and less hassle. |
| dreamakuma:
I use an X-arcade dual with a 1 in, 2 out switchbox. One goes to dc, other goes to pc. I use a spare controller to hold an offical 4x in port c ,slot 1. Just about every game can load from any port/slot. It's lazy, but works for my needs, and is completelt idiot-proof |
| ViciousXUSMC:
I went parts hunting today. I came back with half of what I need. I needed those 3/16ths (.187) female quick connects and radio shack had them but only in combo kits with male/female with 6 of each for like $2.50 so thats a lot of money to waist to get what I needed. They have a little soldring stand I need to go get though unless somebody can point me to one online cheaper it has the magnifying glass and 2 aligator clamps to hold stuff. I found that the DB25 stuff is not hard to solder they make connections just for it with hollow metal tubes to solder the wire into, the ones I had seen before and was referring to in previous post were just metal pins. So Shopping List Today: Radio Shack 1.) Hook Up Wire (22ga 90ft 3 colors) 2.) 1x DB25 Female Connector with solder points (they only had 1 :() Lowes 1.)A flush trim router bit incase I decide to put plexi over my CP 2.) Crimp Tool 3.) A few bags of screws and some threaded inserts so I can bottom mount the joysticks and not have screws coming out of the top of the CP not sure if they fit yet or if I want to route the CP for a higher up joystick yet. Monoprice.com 1.) 1 6ft DB25 Male to Male Cable 2.) 2x 3ft DB25 Male to Femail Cable (out of the 3ft Male 2 Male cables) 3.) 2x double male DB25 gender changer adapter (to make the above 2 cables male to male) 4.) 1 4 way DB25 Switch So what is left... > Need another female DB25 connector, plan to get it from Digikey but I need to know the part # > Need Project boxes to build my adapters inside of > Need the female quick release connectors (lizard lick has them for cheap plan to get those tonight) > Need the Female DB25 connector w/ Terminal Block for my main source connection > Need A few terminal blocks > Need Misc Screws and things Its costing me way more than a pre-fab X-Arcade but I get some tools out of it, its custom, and it should be a higher quality. I have enough material done now since I got my drilling done today to start a build thread. |
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