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Starwars Yoke - DIY
Xiaou2:
Ive decided to finally pull the camera out and take pics of the Updated innards
of my Custom built Starwars Yoke.
Here you will see my first attempt at a Starwars Yoke. I got inspired to try to build
one, after seeing the TwistyGrip design. (thanks Ricky) I didnt plan anything. I simply
started to cut shapes and place things together until things worked out. Surprisingly,
it turned out much better than I expected... and is Incredibly durable.
* Descriptions of Pics coming soon*
The main site is a bit broken. Text color changed on me when they updated
their systems (as well as placements..etc) . Press Ctrl+A to highlight text.
It contains some more info on the rear assembly I believe...
http://xiaou2.homestead.com/arcade.html
This post was edited by 'Mr Nice Guy'. May others follow suit and 'Be Nice'
and respectful to others.
Xiaou2:
Pic 1
Seen here are two Gears.
The small gear is directly mounted to the pot. A hole was carefully drilled to match the diameter of the pots shaft. Then, to attach it firmly... I had to drill a Tiny MM diameter hole in-between the gears teeth, and through the Pots shaft. A tiny "watch-pin" was then
inserted into the hole, which ties the two together. The fit was tight, and I also added some glue just in case of slippage. It has not failed, and does not restrict
gear movement at all.
The larger gear was different. This time, I had used a wooden dowel to brace the shaft.
I believe I:
1) Marked perfect center on a
wooden dowel
2) Drilled a 3mm hole thru the dowel that matched the diameter of the gear hole.
3) Placed a 3mm shaft thru the dowel & gear center.
4) Screwed 2 tiny screws into the gears side, above and below the center axis... to mount it to the dowel.
5) Then, drilled a 1/2"? diameter hole thru the dowel, that went right thru the gear side... making the gears center hole go from 3mm to 1/2".
6) Drilled a hole thru the dowels
top, which went thru the 1/2" shaft.
7) Put a long machine screw thru the dowels hole, which connected it to the main drive shaft... The screw is also much longer, so that it sticks out nearly 1cm below the bottom of the dowel.
8) The screw is double nutted at the bottom. Small dab of hot glue should keep it from ever slipping.
The shaft itself has a nibble out of it. Was simply a drilled hole that was rounded out, sanded down, and de-burred.
There is also a screw eye that goes into the shaft which is used for spring-centering.
Most importantly... To make the yoke handles limited in Travel... I used the Large Gears long mounting screw.
Seen in the 2nd pic.. the small block of wood has a piece of rubber strapping glued to it. This is the forwards limited. The screw hanging from the dowel will slam into this heavily.. and the rubber will absorb the shock, keeping the thing from breaking apart... as well as stopping the axis from over-turning.
Also note.. that there is a bolt
that is mounted on the bottom of the shell. It sticks up into the unit. It has some thick hot glue over the threads.. but was ment to have rubber on it as well. It absorbs and stops the shaft-screw from going too far the other direction.
Currently, this was a single spring design, and uses the wrong type of springs. However, it works good enough. You simply have to manually center it by hand to do the calibration properly, before you can use it.
An advantage to single spring, is ease of complexity, as well as the fact that there is no 'sticky spot' . Only one direction has a moment of heavy initial friction to get past. The disadvantage is needing to have to manually keep it centered... which isnt too bad at all actually.
TPB:
Steve,
Mate, you can't take a trick.
Some punk has edited your post.
--- Quote from: saint ---
« Last Edit: Today at 09:01:41 AM by saint »
--- End quote ---
Mauzy:
I would have liked to have seen the before version.
At any rate, that thing is pretty cool. My hat is off to you. I couldn't have done it, thats for sure!
Xiaou2:
Heya Mauzy, Thanks! ;D
But really, dont sell yourself too short. You never know what you are capable of,
until you fall on your butt trying ;)
Ive had many protos fail in some way or another... which is why this has turned out semi-decently. Simple experience, and dedication to positive results.
As for the Gears, which are the most vital to this project... they were found at a local
hobby shop with the label of "Stevens International" on them.
Turns out that there is now a website for that company:
http://www2.stevenshobby.com:5641/
The gears I used are:
SVM-MR8 Assorted Large Plastic Motor Gears & Metal Shafts (27pcs) $21.95
While you could use any gears... remember that the gears need to be both durable
and easy to work with. These gears are not brittle like some other gears, so wont
break easily when machining them. They are thick, so even if you are off on your
alignments, they will still mesh well - not slipping gears, jamming, etc. The thickness
also helps for mounting screws to hold them in place much better, to the dowel
adapters.
Ive never ordered directly from them, so I can not vouch for them. However,
to save on shipping... check the local RC/Hobby/Craft shops, as they just may stock
these.
PS: Thanks Saint, for taking out the garbage.