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Franco's Custom Sticks (Update: Carbon Fibre Fun!)
Cornchip:
Look's like we know how Franco works. ::)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=92736.msg991220#msg991220
Cornchip.
Franco B:
::)
That mod has nothing to do with low profile CPs such as these as the extension makes it far too long. That was just a quick and dirty mod for Haruman's cab and one of my Naomis.
A couple of months back I came up with a similar solution but the end of the plug is flush with the end of the end of the stock shaft. That was no mean feat as I had to redeisgn the whole shaft and plastic shaft components for it to work. I could have used that version for Haruman but it would have taken much longer to get all the parts together.
Edit: I forgot to add, the mod for Haruman was to get a 5mm RGB LED in the shaft.
Cornchip:
Yes..your previous U360 concept shaft (or this JLF) was a better solution than this multi-piece mod. That's why I'm surprised you used it. Call it quick and dirty as you will, but it is much easier to assemble when it comes to wiring the RGB and stuffing the wires back inside.
Also don't forget to add a piece of tin foil between the plug and jack to assure a solid contact on that pole. The end pole has no spring contact inside the female socket, relying on the male end to be pulled inward by the spring contact of the first pole and others (contact is made face-to-face rather than on the diameter). The very act of moving the stick around can cause a very brief 'blink' caused by the momentary loss of contact. There is a better 4 pole socket available made completely from metal that has stronger contact force than the plastic socket. Also, there is a way to modify the metal socket so that the male end goes in with a strong 'click'. So many of these line jacks are poorly made as far as contact force is concerned for what you pay.I'll keep that to myself for now. ;)
Not meant to be a inflammatory post, but a helpful one. Fanboy's stay away.
Cornchip.
Franco B:
--- Quote from: Cornchip on July 16, 2009, 08:17:36 pm --- I have to ask myself why this is something new. I posted this mod in your 'Franco's Custom Sticks - Carbon Fiber Fun' thread. Your welcome. ::)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88571.0
Cornchip.
--- End quote ---
Did you read the other thread completely? I never said that I had come up with anything new in in regards to using a jack. The idea has been around for ages. Slikstik we using it before they were dead and buried and I believe another member was using it before that. The whole point of that thread was getting an a bubble top lit brightly with an RGB LED.
--- Quote from: Cornchip on July 17, 2009, 09:00:00 am --- Yes..your previous U360 concept shaft (or this JLF) was a better solution than this multi-piece mod. That's why I'm surprised you used it. Call it quick and dirty as you will, but it is much easier to assemble when it comes to wiring the RGB and stuffing the wires back inside.
--- End quote ---
I'm not sure what you mean. You say that the U360 concept shaft was a better idea but then say this version (which I called quick and dirty) is easier to wire/assemble.
If you mean that the u360 concept is easier to wire I'm think you are wrong IMO. I'm not sure if you read the thread correctly but these are not just ~3mm drilled shafts. They are new shafts with an M8 thread. The M8 thread means you can increase the bore size to ~5.2mm. This means you can slide a 5mm LED (with the shoulder removed) straight through the shaft. This makes wiring an assembly much easier than the u360 concept as you can just wire the LED>wires>socket up outside of the shaft and then just slide the whole thing through the shaft until the socket clips into position. I'm using some 4.5mm OD 4 core cable so the wirred assebly will be stiff enough to slide up the shaft.
--- Quote from: Cornchip on July 17, 2009, 09:00:00 am ---Also don't forget to add a piece of tin foil between the plug and jack to assure a solid contact on that pole. The end pole has no spring contact inside the female socket, relying on the male end to be pulled inward by the spring contact of the first pole and others (contact is made face-to-face rather than on the diameter). The very act of moving the stick around can cause a very brief 'blink' caused by the momentary loss of contact. There is a better 4 pole socket available made completely from metal that has stronger contact force than the plastic socket. Also, there is a way to modify the metal socket so that the male end goes in with a strong 'click'. So many of these line jacks are poorly made as far as contact force is concerned for what you pay.I'll keep that to myself for now. ;)
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the tip. I haven't wired mine up yet so I haven't had chance to test it (I've just made 174 dustwashers for an expo over here and have been flat out). I would be surprised if the contact is lost when playing but I'll take your word for it as you have had more experience than me. Was it the Calrad sockets you had issues with?
--- Quote from: Cornchip on July 17, 2009, 09:00:00 am ---Not meant to be a inflammatory post, but a helpful one. Fanboy's stay away.
Cornchip.
--- End quote ---
Not taken as inflammatory. Thanks for the input/advice.
HaRuMaN:
--- Quote from: Franco B on July 17, 2009, 10:02:10 am ---Did you read the other thread completely? I never said that I had come up with anything new in in regards to using a jack. The idea has been around for ages. Slikstik we using it before they were dead and buried and I believe another member was using it before that. The whole point of that thread was getting an a bubble top lit brightly with an RGB LED.
--- End quote ---
I don't think he did. 8)
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