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A Mame machine in an antique buffet - USB probs solved (I think!)
drventure:
Hmmm. Interesting idea. I suppose if I could come up with a good design to frame it with, it might work.
Truth be told though, those holes I'm talking about are just about 1/16th inch in dia. In other words, quite small.
When I stand back from the sample piece it put together, I literally can't see the hole if it's not lit. Esp with the bead in place.
Putting all the lamps together in one spot would draw more attention to that one spot. Could work, or that in itself could be a distraction.
I dunno, I could see it both ways. I'll have to sleep on that one!
Thanks for the ideas!
Benevolance:
Hmmm. A physical frame is an interesting idea.
You know those victorian sitting rooms always had portraits of family members, friends, people they only sorta new, things they'd shot...pictures everywhere, on everything. What about building something that is free standing, done up like a picture frame? It could simply be a grainy, off-black and white picture of game controller, with six/seven button setup, and those buttons in the photograph can be lit for the game. It wouldn't be physically attached to the CP, just something that you could sit on top in case people needed reference? And then you could just unplug it and put it away when you didn't want it out.
drventure:
--- Quote ---Hmmm. A physical frame is an interesting idea.
--- End quote ---
Actually that's kinda what I had in mind...
Imagine something like this...
Stripped of the frame parts and framed by the CP top, or placed in some VERY small victorianesque wallet photoframe.
That screen is 1" to 1.5", so very small and easy to "hide away" or even embed in the CP or next to the monitor somehow.
It could have a single USB cable running to it, which could theoretically update the image shown at will (I've found several "Hack" projects that detail how to actually make that happen).
I'm toying with that idea for later, going to pick on one of those digital keychains off ebay to experiment with.
But, for now, I decided to throw caution to the wind and start drilling holes again in my CP 8)
Went to fry's, picked up a pile of yellow leds, resisters, more wire, and a new video card (Visual Pinball and virtual pinball just killed my onboard video <sigh> . Got all the holes drilled (only had one accident that a little black furniture putty fixed), got the citrine beads in place and glued up, and got one harness of LED's in place and wired.
I don't have any pics yet, because I still need to get another LEDWiz to drive all the new LEDs.
But, I did hook power to them one at a time to make sure they work. I think it's going to turn out fantastic.
The Citrine is dark enough that the holes just completely disappear on the CP, If I stand an normal playing playing height, and with normal lights in the room, I literally can't see them until I light em up.
The holes are 1/16th inch, so they're so small they really look more like pinpricks of light when they light, but the citrine beads have their sharp points set right at the surface of the cp, so they scatter the LED light really nicely when on.
I was pushing those beads into place, thinking "I've now got an arcade cab upholstered in red pintuck taffeta and set with actual semi precious stones" :dizzy:
My weekend is officially complete :)
drventure:
Didn't have much to show last time, and I still don't have the CP back in the buffet so I can't really show much of the button lighting proper, so I figured I show a little wiring pron ;)
First, the citrine beads I used, this is a closeup, these guys are +tiny+
The CP with the stamping done
The holes for the lights. They're more visible at this angle than just about any other. When you actually stand in front of it, you can't see the holes at all.
A "guts" shot of the wiring for one player. What a pain in the ass! The eyeballs belong to my daughter :)
Another behind the scenes shot, with the leds out so you can see the beads jammed up inside and glued in place with elmers (it's clear, so it doesn't affect the led light transmission)
Another below decks shot, you can better see the led wiring. I wired the resistors inline right at the led, then wrapped them in heatshrink. Not sure if this is the best way to do it or not, but it keeps the resistors nice and tidy (and keeps the wiring at the LEDWiz neat as well).
No comments on my suboptimal wiring skills, Ond! ;)
And finally, a sad shot of a u360 shaft. Note the corrosion. Gack. I've only actually used the thing for, what, maybe an hour total!?
Anyway, a little brasso, some polish, and some silicone lube and it looks good as new. Hopefully, all that'll help resist more corrosion as well.
drventure:
One more post for the night.
I'd gotten the top clear coated, got all the buttons and sticks back on, but then I couldn't leave well enough alone.
I had some extra filigree beads lying around, and decided I needed a little more bling ;D
So I decided to try my hand at another round of carving, nothing complex or anything, but nerve wracking none-the-less.
First, the tools involved, You can see the beads I used scattered about. Drill, forstner bits (several sizes), regular bit (for the LED hole), a Japanese Carving Chisel, stain, several of those LED "flicker" candles, some plastic cut from the top of said candles, Pencil, etc
Outline the area to be carved...
Drill the started hole with the large forstner, it's just slightly smaller than the beads...
Use the chisel to carve out the bead outline, for a nice tight seamless fit.
Use the second size forstner to drill another hole, centered and a little deeper.
Now, use the last size forstner to drill a "light well", a space to allow light from the LED to spread out a little
Then, use the regular bit and punch through for a hole to mount the LED in.
Then mount the led. You can see the multiple "steps" clearly here, Top step to hole the outer bead, next step to hold a white plastic disk to help diffuse the LED light, and the last step to server as the light well (might not be completely necessary, but, then, is there anything about this cab that's necessary :)
Finally, restain the area, glue a round piece of translucent white plastic sized to just fit the second step down, and then JBWeld the bead in place on top.
Presto!
Boiler pressure relief vents! ;)
I shot a short movie of one in place with the light on. It took about an hour to work through it all, and I've got 6 total to do, so there's only one in the movie right now.
I did it once, but I can't for the life of me remember how I embedded a youtube video now. So, here's the link. Sorry about that. saint's note - embedded now :)
I'll probably link them all up to one control line on the LEDWiz, so I can turn em off if necessary. However, they should be relatively inconspicuous when you're playing because they're on the side of the bottom level of the CP (not like that glowing plasma orb on the top level :D
I've just had a fire lit under me to get this thing back together so, I can't spend too much more time on the distractions, but what the hell!
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