Pac-man restoration - Return from Doh!

[Spyridon]

I must have a thing for Arkanoid conversions.  Picked up two in one day.


See my Centipede restoration for what's going on with the Arkanoid.  The Arkanoid: Revenge of Doh! will be converted back to Pac-man.

Here is what I am starting with:





Nothing left of Pacman on the inside and I'll need to fix the monitor.  Paid $90 for the cab.  The Arkanoid board works, I tested it in my Arkanoid machine (yes...I have an Arkanoid in my collection).  According to the seller, everything was working until the monitor went out on him.

Here's what I've done so far:

1. Purchased a new overay from TNT Amusements ($20 shipped)

2. Purchased a bezel in excellent shape from a KLOV member ($125 shipped)

3. Swapped the Arkanoid control panel with a KLOV member for a Pac-man control panel - I could have repaired the holes on this one, but swapping makes the job easier. Plus the new owner was looking for a Doh CP. ($ No charge)


4. Purchased transformer assembly and wire harness from TNT Amusements ($19.99 + $15 shipping)

5. Purchased a working PCB from a KLOV member ($90 shipped)

6. Purchased a joystick and complete harness from a KLOV member ($18 shipped) - this was before I did the CP swap, so now I have an extra
7. Purchased a marquee from Quarter Arcade ($30 shipped)

8. Purchased a Pacpower adaptor kit from Bob Roberts to use a switching power supply ($17)
9. Purchased miscelaneous items from Bob Roberts - new power cord, WG K4600 cap kit (hopefully fixes my monitor issue), new carriage bolts ($14.25)

I should have everything I need to convert this back into a working Pac-man. All the cosmetic work will be done when the weather gets better. I'm still working on a stencil solution for the artwork.  Also, still need to order the orange t-molding.

I'm estimating it's probably going to cost me about $600 (not including labor) to have a mint condition pac-man. Yes, I could probably find a nice one for slightly less but I enjoy the restoration process.

Converting a classic back to it's former glory...Priceless

[Spyridon]

Haven't installed any of the guts yet, but it sure does look better already

[Spyridon]

Never saw these types of bulbs used in an arcade game before.  Guess the previous owner didn't want to have to change the bulbs for a long time.

[shred5]

Bravo for all the games you have been restoring and converting back.... So refreshing to see with all the people who have been trashing and parting games.

Dave

[orion]

I have a Pacman that was in about that same condition when I got it. I would say that by far the artwork was the most challenging aspect of it. I am tempted to do a stencil in the future but I think it looks fine as is,  Given the total cost I would not undertake such a project in the future. I have those florescent bulbs in my machines. I like how little heat they produce as well as the lumins you get for the wattage...and that they will last for at least seven years.

[orion]

Just curious, why would you use a switching power supply when you have all that you need in the transformer assembly? Mine seems quite reliable to me. The Pac boards step the power down on the board itself.

[Spyridon]

Orion - that Pac-man looks great.  Especailly when sitting next to a nice Galaxian.  What did you use for the side art?

Just curious, why would you use a switching power supply when you have all that you need in the transformer assembly? Mine seems quite reliable to me. The Pac boards step the power down on the board itself.

Yeah, I ordered this before I did some research on the pac-man setup.  I thought it was like most of my other games and had a seperate power supply that needed to be connected.  If everything works without the switcher, I probably won't use this, however, I know some people have said that pac-man is the one game they always put a switcher in because of problems.  I think I'll hang onto it and only use it if needed down the line.

[Spyridon]

Bravo for all the games you have been restoring and converting back.... So refreshing to see with all the people who have been trashing and parting games.

Dave

Thanks!  I like to preserve them as much as I can.  Sometimes I feel like just buying a game that doesn't need any work and all I have to do is play, but once the restore is finished it gives you a really good feeling knowing everything you put into it.  Plus, I'm not doing this to flip and sell.  These are keepers for me.

[orion]

Orion - that Pac-man looks great.  Especailly when sitting next to a nice Galaxian.  What did you use for the side art?

Just curious, why would you use a switching power supply when you have all that you need in the transformer assembly? Mine seems quite reliable to me. The Pac boards step the power down on the board itself.

Yeah, I ordered this before I did some research on the pac-man setup.  I thought it was like most of my other games and had a seperate power supply that needed to be connected.  If everything works without the switcher, I probably won't use this, however, I know some people have said that pac-man is the one game they always put a switcher in because of problems.  I think I'll hang onto it and only use it if needed down the line.

Thanks for the complement! You always do such great work on all you cabs, and I am truly in awe of you talent. The Galaxian does need some work however... the side art is all dinged to hell and I haven't come up with a solution to it.  I don't want to replace it with a sticker like I had to do on the front.  I'm not sure why people have had problems with the pac man power supply... it's just a transformer.... those things are kind of hard to kill. Oh and check you PM.

[Mauzy]

with the pac man power supply... it's just a transformer.... those things are kind of hard to kill.

Not meaning to jump in the middle here, but I agree with you on that. I still used the original brick in my Ms Pac. Gives a steadier voltage than any SMPS I have!

[orion]

with the pac man power supply... it's just a transformer.... those things are kind of hard to kill.

Not meaning to jump in the middle here, but I agree with you on that. I still used the original brick in my Ms Pac. Gives a steadier voltage than any SMPS I have!

It's a simple devise, not much can go wrong with it, which in theory should make it more steady and reliable. I would think that the only thing that might affect its voltage output would be power spikes and drops coming from your utility co.  I always use power strips in my cabs that provide a little bit of power conditioning... haven't seen any problems whatsoever.... knock on wood.

[Spyridon]

Okay, now that I've got my Centipede up and running, I can now focus back on Pac-man.  Going to try and find time this weekend to pull the monitor and see if I can get it up and running.

[THE POKER BRAT]

Okay, now that I've got my Centipede up and running, I can now focus back on Pac-man.  Going to try and find time this weekend to pull the monitor and see if I can get it up and running.

the monitor needs a width coil,...i have the same problem with a cab i have,..."Does anyone know a good place or site that shows a width coil installation?  (do it yourself )

[orion]

Okay, now that I've got my Centipede up and running, I can now focus back on Pac-man.  Going to try and find time this weekend to pull the monitor and see if I can get it up and running.

the monitor needs a width coil,...i have the same problem with a cab i have,..."Does anyone know a good place or site that shows a width coil installation?  (do it yourself )

Here you go... real easy fix, and I hear that Bob Roberts usually has them in stock

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/k4600width.html

[Spyridon]

the monitor needs a width coil,...i have the same problem with a cab i have,..."Does anyone know a good place or site that shows a width coil installation?  (do it yourself )

I'm not sure that the problem is the width coil.  Mine looks to be in good shape.  Could just be a cold solder joint that is causing it.

[Spyridon]

Got the monitor pulled out today.



In terms of burn in, how bad do you think this monitor is?  Do you think it will look okay under some tinted plexi with the game on?

[Mauzy]

Scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the worst burn in ever, I'd give it a 6.5. Tinted glass would really make it hard to see, but you still may be able to see it during play. Good candidate for a tube swap.

[orion]

That monitor looks pretty much like crap in my opinion. Personally I would opt for a new Vision Pro, as they are relatively cheap and seem pretty decent. (I like mine well enough) Its just a lot easier, safer and involves a lot less headaches to just put a new monitor in. Of course bear in mind that I did almost electrocute myself the last time I worked on a monitor. I didn't quite have the annode cap in properly. It popped out a little while I was trying to make adjustment to the monitor. It made a real pretty light show though... looked just like a plasma globe.

[Level42]

I agree, would be a shame to fully restore the machine and then use that CRT. I think the extra for a Vision Pro would be really worth it (oh, if only we could get brand new monitors that cheap !)

Looks very promising ! I'd try to go for the original PSU too. Mine is working fine in my Galaxian, which is basically the same as the Pac.

If you have no use for that extra Pac joystick, I'm interested !!! (For my Puckman )

Never understood why Midway switched from an energy friendly fluorescent tube set-up (like my eraly serial nr. Galaxian has) to the two incandescent bulbs....it looks terrible and wastes a LOT of energy, but probably they went for the 2 dollars they saved by using this set-up....
It's a good thing to have those lamps in there, probably will give a more even lighting too.

[Mauzy]

I didn't quite have the annode cap in properly. It popped out a little while I was trying to make adjustment to the monitor. It made a real pretty light show though... looked just like a plasma globe.

I once ran a monitor for about 30 seconds with the anode dangling in the air. Fired it got, got no picture and couldn't figure out what that weird hissing noise was...

Why spend $200 bucks when you could just replace the tube for nearly free? Maybe I've just had really good luck with my tube swaps, but I've turned a dumpster level G07 into something that looks brand new with a tube I found on the curb, and a K7201 into something functional with a $10 crt from a garage sale. I guess it could be hard to find a tube, but otherwise theres virtually no work involved. Unbolt the old, re-bolt the new.

[Spyridon]

I agree, would be a shame to fully restore the machine and then use that CRT. I think the extra for a Vision Pro would be really worth it (oh, if only we could get brand new monitors that cheap !) 

Yeah, you are probably right.  I'll try and get it working, just as a learning experience and see what it looks like.  I have a Vision Pro ready, so I can use that.  Maybe create a test bench with this monitor.

If you have no use for that extra Pac joystick, I'm interested !!! (For my Puckman )

It's yours!  No charge and I'll even cover shipping.  Just let me make sure I've got a working one before I send it out.

[orion]

I didn't quite have the annode cap in properly. It popped out a little while I was trying to make adjustment to the monitor. It made a real pretty light show though... looked just like a plasma globe.

I once ran a monitor for about 30 seconds with the anode dangling in the air. Fired it got, got no picture and couldn't figure out what that weird hissing noise was...

Seems to easy to get hurt working on them to me. Personaly I don't like the idea of getting fried for a hobby. 110 shocks are one thing but that high voltage stuff is scary. I would me more inclined to do it if I had the apporpriate training, but this isn't something I feel comfortable trying to teach myself how to do. Plus I feel like a new monitor should just last longer than a 30+ year old monitor anyway.

 

Yeah, you are probably right.  I'll try and get it working, just as a learning experience and see what it looks like.  I have a Vision Pro ready, so I can use that.  Maybe create a test bench with this monitor.

Well there ya go!

[SirPeale]

K4600s have awesome pictures and last forever.  Find a new(ish) tube and swap it out.

[TimothyC]

Definitely replace that tube as the current one would look like crap once you're done. Besides you do top notch work so why cut a corner on the one part of the machine that's stared at the most? 

[Level42]

I agree, would be a shame to fully restore the machine and then use that CRT. I think the extra for a Vision Pro would be really worth it (oh, if only we could get brand new monitors that cheap !) 

Yeah, you are probably right.  I'll try and get it working, just as a learning experience and see what it looks like.  I have a Vision Pro ready, so I can use that.  Maybe create a test bench with this monitor.

If you have no use for that extra Pac joystick, I'm interested !!! (For my Puckman )

It's yours!  No charge and I'll even cover shipping.  Just let me make sure I've got a working one before I send it out.

Wahoo ! Thanks but I have no problem at all to at least cover your costs of course !!!!!

So, if you guys replace just the CRT, how about convergence ? Do you replace the CRT plus yoke etc. ? In that case it needs to have the same impedance etc. right ?

This may be something to keep an eye on. Hope it will work out:
http://forums.webmagic.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1037593&an=0&page=0&gonew=1#UNREAD

[Mauzy]

So, if you guys replace just the CRT, how about convergence ? Do you replace the CRT plus yoke etc. ? In that case it needs to have the same impedance etc. right ?

Yeah. The first one I did was a G07. I took the G07 yoke and put it on the TV tube, but I didn't attatch the G07 purity rings as the TV tube did not have any. If I can find the tutorial where I got it from I'll post a link. I don't have any convergence issues as far as I can see.

Heres the tutorial I used: http://www.arcadetreasure.com/monitorinfo/Monitortubeswap.htm

[Spyridon]

Wahoo ! Thanks but I have no problem at all to at least cover your costs of course !!!!!

You've given good comments and advice in every one of my restorations.  Consider it a small thank you for all the help you've given to everyone in this forum.

[Level42]

The force is strong with you !   

[channelmaniac]

Hey! That PC board looks familiar.

BE SURE you check for dull/dark looking pins on that Pac harness. If you see ANY dull or dark pins on the power pins - REPLACE THEM. If you don't you'll burn the edge connector on the board.

Better yet, replace the edge connector on the harness up front. That'll give you another 20+ years of good, trouble free operation.

Also, if you decide to rebuild the monitor, desolder the width coil and leave it on the chassis. Those things WILL crumble if you remove them from the holder.

[Spyridon]

Hey! That PC board looks familiar.

Yeah, it should.  Nice packaging by the way 

BE SURE you check for dull/dark looking pins on that Pac harness. If you see ANY dull or dark pins on the power pins - REPLACE THEM. If you don't you'll burn the edge connector on the board.

Good point.  I'll check that out before plugging anything in.

Also, if you decide to rebuild the monitor, desolder the width coil and leave it on the chassis. Those things WILL crumble if you remove them from the holder.

Yeah, I already did that.  I learned that lesson when I restored my Gorf. 

[Spyridon]

Did the cap kit but no change in the picture.  I'll have to dig deeper into it to get it working.  I'll do this as a learning experience as I will be going with a new monitor (which I have already) in this.

[SirPeale]

Did the cap kit but no change in the picture.  I'll have to dig deeper into it to get it working.  I'll do this as a learning experience as I will be going with a new monitor (which I have already) in this.

Still the same collapse?

[Spyridon]

Still the same collapse?

Yep.  There is a thread over at KLOV that walked someone through the same problem with this monitor.  I need to go back to it and see what they did.

[Spyridon]

ThisOldGame and Arcadeshop both sell smoked plexi for Pac-man.  Did this come standard in the game? 

[Level42]

Don't know about Pac, but it was on Galaxian, so it would be at least reasonable to believe it was.

I prefer the tinted only plexi (not brown colored). I don't like the brown color washing away the nice colors on the screen.

[Spyridon]

I ordered the Pac-man smoked plexi from ThisOldGame.

Pulled out the wireing harness this weekend to take a look at.  The wires are cut going up to the marquee and power switch.  I'll have to trace those wires back and see where each one goes.

[WunderCade]

I'd say the smoked plexi came factory. My Galaga, Ms. Pac-man, and Pac-man all had the same monitor shroud w/ recessed smoked plexi inserted on them. The plexi fits perfectly into the shroud recess with four retainer clips

[Spyridon]

I'd say the smoked plexi came factory. My Galaga, Ms. Pac-man, and Pac-man all had the same monitor shroud w/ recessed smoked plexi inserted on them. The plexi fits perfectly into the shroud recess with four retainer clips

Thanks for confirming that.  I'll have to check my Galaga and see if I have it in there. 

Here are the cut wires that I need to trace back and see where each one goes:


I believe they go to the interlock, power switch, and marquee.  Not sure where else or which wire goes where yet.

[WunderCade]

That's a Ms. Pac-man wiring harness, so you must have a Ms. Pac powersupply harness set-up.

I believe both PS's are interchangeable, but the regular Pac-man power supply has an extra diode array on it (I think for the coin door) but not sure.

I'll post pics.

This is a Pac-man PS block (note the array in the top right corner):


This is the Ms. Pac-man PS block (no array on it) Ms. Pac has Coin Door lights:


This is the Pac-man harness counterpart to what you have shown clipped:


Now this is the Ms. Pac-man harness that you have shown clipped:


Just in case you decide to use it anyway, here are some (hopefully helpful) pics of where the harness you are showing clipped goes on my Ms. Pac-man, it does indeed go to the marquee light, but it also contains the monitor power harness that branches off of it as well as the ground clip that clips to the monitor frame:



Here's pics of the part running up to the marquee (and also the ground loops to the speaker):







If you need more pics of anything let me know....I'm going to the shed to see if I have an extra Pac-man PS board....I'll let you know my friend. Keep up the good work, love watching the progress.
 

[Spyridon]

WunderCade, thanks for posting those pictues.

Here's a full shot of the power supply:


Looks like it matches with you pacman pic?  Also, if I remember correctly (I'm currently in NC), it had a Pac-man tag on it

[WunderCade]

It looks like you have the proper Pac-man Power Block so you're golden. The wires you have clipped should wire up the same.

[Spyridon]

Was able to score a NOS Pac-man marquee. 




Much better shape than the one I picked up earlier.  The paper covering is really on there good.  Anyone know a good way to get it off?  Can I wet it?  It peels off okay, but in small pieces and will take forever to get it done.

[Spyridon]

Also, was looking over my wire harness and noticed that a few wires had been clipped:



Going to have to do some work and trace these back and see what they are for.

[Level42]

The schematics should tell you the color code of the wires and where they're connected to.

[Spyridon]

Traced the cut wires back and they are for the speaker.  I would have guessed that was the case even before looking.  That will be an easy fix.

The third wire appears to be a ground wire. 

[Spyridon]

Made some progress this weekend.

1. Removed the Arkanoid II board


2. Removed the old hacked power supply and wire harness

It's pretty dirty in there, but I'll clean that up when I move the cab to the garage for painting

I cut the wires going to the interlock switch, monitor, power switch, and marquee.  I'll use these to match up to the cut wires on my pac-man harness.


3. Installed the pacman power supply and harness


4. I matched up all of the cut wires from the pac-man power supply to the ones in the cab.  I just need to solder them together and I should be good to go.

[Spyridon]

One shinny new monitor ready to go into the cab:



What's the best way to hook up the power to this monitor?

The current K4600 monitor uses a two pronged connector:


The new monitor uses a 3 prong connector with a ground wire not used on the original:


I'm thinking about cutting the new cord below the 3 pin connector and splicing it into the two wires being used on the original monitor.  I'll then add in a ground wire as well.  Is there any problem with using an isolation transformer with a monitor that doens't require one?

[Mauzy]

Is there any problem with using an isolation transformer with a monitor that doens't require one?

Nope. You'll be fine.

[Level42]

There already should be a separate ground wire running to the metal parts of the old monitor.

I hate you. And  all you guys that can get CRT monitors so cheaply over there

Any news on the joystick ?

[Spyridon]

Any news on the joystick ?

We're getting closer.  As soon as I get the game running I'll be able to free up a spare joystick!

[orion]

One shinny new monitor ready to go into the cab:



What's the best way to hook up the power to this monitor?

The current K4600 monitor uses a two pronged connector:


The new monitor uses a 3 prong connector with a ground wire not used on the original:


I'm thinking about cutting the new cord below the 3 pin connector and splicing it into the two wires being used on the original monitor.  I'll then add in a ground wire as well.  Is there any problem with using an isolation transformer with a monitor that doens't require one?

I just hooked mine into a surge protector that I keep inside the cab. I didn't see the need to splice it into the cabs original wiring. I also just feel better plugging everything into a surge protector. Sure it bypasses the switch and the safety switch, but in my case someone had taken those out already anyway.

 

[orion]

There already should be a separate ground wire running to the metal parts of the old monitor.

I hate you. And  all you guys that can get CRT monitors so cheaply over there

Any news on the joystick ?

Really? That sucks! I guess it would be pretty pricey for you to get a monitor shipped to you directly from Happs.

[Level42]

You bet. I even asked at the Suzo's headquarters over here, as the sales rep told me she could order "everything" from Happ for me as they have regular shipments (they started to carry Happ products as soon as they merged). So I asked about the CRT monitors and after some discussion with a colleague it turned out that those were out of the question because of weight and size.......sigh.


O well, I've got some hope on this shop:
http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/index_eng.htm

[orion]

You bet. I even asked at the Suzo's headquarters over here, as the sales rep told me she could order "everything" from Happ for me as they have regular shipments (they started to carry Happ products as soon as they merged). So I asked about the CRT monitors and after some discussion with a colleague it turned out that those were out of the question because of weight and size.......sigh.


O well, I've got some hope on this shop:
http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/index_eng.htm

I could see the larger sized monitors being a bear for them to ship, but the 19's and 13's aren't all that heavy and large. If they are shipping them in bulk I don't see why that would be a problem for them. I noticed in that link that the company is currently not selling 19 inch or 13 inch CRT monitors, are they planning on selling them in the future? You do have one advantage over us on the monitor front (and you have a nice post about it here somewhere... cool read BTW) you have access to SCART TV's. I would imagine with everything being LCD's and plasmas these days, you should have tons of people just giving those things away.

[Level42]

Yep that's right. Although I've discovered that the SCART solution is not always ideal. F.I. I had a problem setting the display 100% correct on the one I used on my Centipede. Also I moved the one from the Galaxian to the Centipede and vice versa because I had some problems but now the one on the Galxian is showing some weird jitters on the right side of the screen (from the moment I moved it).

Still, they are good tubes (relatively new) and I'm looking into getting some chassis for them and see how that works. (See the thread about the Japandeal webshop).

With SCART it would be best to use brand new TVs (like Darthnuno does all the time ), which has electronic (menu) set-up of all settings. For that you mostly need a service code, and it's not always sure you can get it. Still, finding brand new 19" TV's here is pretty hard these days, though not impossible.

Alternative is finding (defective) TV's and using the tube with a new chassis.

I agree with you about the shipping, esp. when it's only a couple, but I'm not a big customer of them so they probably won't change their mind.

But let's not get too much off-topic

[WunderCade]

Let's not hijack the thread guys.

[orion]

Let's not hijack the thread guys.

 


I am looking forward to seeing this getting painted, how long till the weather warms up in Philly anyway? Looks like you pretty much have the wiring figured out, but if you need any reference pics or anything for that, let me know.

[Spyridon]

I am looking forward to seeing this getting painted, how long till the weather warms up in Philly anyway? Looks like you pretty much have the wiring figured out, but if you need any reference pics or anything for that, let me know.

I'm about 2 hours North of Philly and about 10 degrees colder.  This is probably an April / May project for painting.

Thanks for the offer on reference pics, but I think I'm in good shape.

[Spyridon]

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired.  Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

[orion]

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired.  Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Does it have anything to do with PROK???

[Spyridon]

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired.  Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Does it have anything to do with PROK???

Nope (but you are onto what I got)

[orion]

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired.  Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Does it have anything to do with PROK???

Nope (but you are onto what I got)

Cool!!!! I can't wait to see this one!

[WunderCade]

This project has just taken a significant step forward based on something I just acquired.  Stay tuned for the details in a few days when it gets delivered...

Can't wait. I'm sure we'll all be like...ohhhh ahhhhh ooooo     

(If it's what I believe it to be.)

[Spyridon]

Back to work on pac-man this weekend.  First up was to install the new monitor.  I pulled the old monitor out and set it next to the new one.  I needed to remove the monitor rails from the old one

and install on the new one

Once that was done, I was able to install the new monitor into the cab

I cut the new monitor power cord and spliced the wires into the old monitor wires, connecting the thrid wire to a ground wire.

Next up was to connect all the wires we matched up earlier.  I twisted the wires together, added some solder, and used some shrink tube to finish it off:



Got a package in the mail earlier this week.  Midway PCB holders!  Best part of the deal is that I got them for the cost of shipping ($4.95) thanks to a fellow KLOV'er.


I installed two of them to hold the PCB in place.  No need to use all four sides at this point because once this is working, it will be torn down for painting.

And then installed the PCB:


As I was installing this, I noticed that the board has the fast speed chips on it.  Where's the best place to get the normal speed roms?

[Spyridon]

Okay, monitor is in place and wired up


I picked up some Pac-man plexi from This Old Game.  It's big enough to cover the monitor, but I'm not sure how it mounts in the game.  Is there some type of bezel I need?  I'll have to pull up the manual and check it out


Okay, now the moment of truth.  Time to power it up...


Woot!!!!       Game on!

Need to adjust the vertical position on the monitor, but that is easy on these Vision Pro monitors as the controls are on a 3 foot wire so you can adjust from the front.  Tried to play a game, but couldn't move to the right.  Let's check the joystick


Ah, one of the wires had come loose.  Easy fix, just solder it back in place and we are good to go.

The picture on this new monitor is incredible.  Sound works fine as well.  Let's put the bezel in place for the full effect:



Coin door wiring still needs some work as I can't use it to coin up, but the credit switch works fine.  Just about ready to strip this down for a full blown cabinet restore. 

It was a good weekend!

[WunderCade]

6F is the speedup rom. You can get the regular speed 6F from hobbyroms.com for a song.

And yes, there is a black plastic monitor bezel that mounts to the monitor. The bezel has a square recess in it that your plexi fits into and there's four retainer clips.

Here it is.

[Mauzy]

This is the Ms. Pac-man PS block (no array on it) Ms. Pac has Coin Door lights:


 

Hey could you tell me something real quick: what color is the wire that is along side the white wire on the output of the isolation transformer? I have found myself also piecing one of these power sets as of late. When I'm done I plan on making a color coded map as that would be stupidly helpful, but I can't seem to find such a thing on the internet.

[Spyridon]

6F is the speedup rom. You can get the regular speed 6F from hobbyroms.com for a song.

And yes, there is a black plastic monitor bezel that mounts to the monitor. The bezel has a square recess in it that your plexi fits into and there's four retainer clips.

Here it is.

Thanks WunderCade.  $25 is not that bad a price, but I don't love the idea of ordering from two-bits.  I think I'll ask around and see if anyone has a spare before I place the order.

[Spyridon]

Hey could you tell me something real quick: what color is the wire that is along side the white wire on the output of the isolation transformer? I have found myself also piecing one of these power sets as of late. When I'm done I plan on making a color coded map as that would be stupidly helpful, but I can't seem to find such a thing on the internet.

Are they the same for pac-man and ms pac-man?  The picture you linked was of ms. pac-man.

[RayB]

This thread makes me want to save up and put new monitors into all my machines. 

[Level42]

Not sure if I had to ask here or my Puckman thread, but could you make a pic that clearly shows how the original Pac joystick set-up is ? I'm looking at my options now...

[WunderCade]

For Mauzy and Level42:

[Spyridon]

Not sure if I had to ask here or my Puckman thread, but could you make a pic that clearly shows how the original Pac joystick set-up is ? I'm looking at my options now...

Will do!

EDIT:  Looks like WunderCade beat me to it.  Let me know if you need any others.

[Spyridon]

This thread makes me want to save up and put new monitors into all my machines. 

Yeah, I'm all for saving old monitors...but WOW!...What a nice picture.

[Mauzy]

Hey could you tell me something real quick: what color is the wire that is along side the white wire on the output of the isolation transformer? I have found myself also piecing one of these power sets as of late. When I'm done I plan on making a color coded map as that would be stupidly helpful, but I can't seem to find such a thing on the internet.

Are they the same for pac-man and ms pac-man?  The picture you linked was of ms. pac-man.

A ha! There be method to my madness as that is for which I seek! I believe the picture posted by Wundercade has shown me what I need as it has the same wire colors as my Ms Pac harness, but I'm not sure if that is a Pac or Ms pac that he showed in the picture.

EDIT: The basic coloring is correct with a few marking exceptions. All base colors are he same EXCEPT ground, which has a GREEN base color with yellow bands. All other base and secondary colors are the same, except the secondary (i.e. the yellow accents on the green body) is in individual bands rather than long strands running the length of the wire.

[WunderCade]

That's a Ms. Pac-man power block Mauzy. If you  need the rest of the block wires in pics, let me know. I have the camera handy.

[Mauzy]

That's a Ms. Pac-man power block Mauzy. If you  need the rest of the block wires in pics, let me know. I have the camera handy.

Excellent. Thanks!

EDIT: How about a relatively closeup pic of the connections on the interlock switch? That should be the last I need.

Nevermind. Guessed right this time!

[WunderCade]

Here you go:

[Mauzy]

Awesome. I was right. Thanks again!

[Level42]

Great pics Wunder, thanks !!

If I understand correctly the joystick is somewhat below the metal panel but not much, right ?. The bolts that hold the joystick to the wood look to be fixed on the wood as I can only see the two bolts that hold the wood to the metal CP on the top-side. Are the bolts that hold the joystick to the wood recessed ? What top do they have ?

Sorry for being anal, but I want this baby to be as "original" as possible


[Edit] Looking at the pics again, I'm sure the bolts that hold the joystick MUST be recessed as the wood otherwise wouldn't be touching the metal.
I think this also means that there is not much distance between the top of the joystick and the metal of the CP ?

[Spyridon]

Inner plastic bezel has been acquired and should be here on Saturday.

[Spyridon]

Orange t-molding arrived today



Level42 - I'll get some deatail photos of the joystick mounting this weekend for you.

[Spyridon]

Inner plastic bezel has been acquired and should be here on Saturday.

Bezel arrived on Saturday but the box was damaged in shipping.  One part of the bezel was cracked in half.  Also, the seller sent me a Ms. Pac bezel instead of a pac-man bezel.     The plexi I got from ThisOldGame is too large and does not fit.  I can cut the plexi (but would rather not) to fit, but are there other differences between the two bezels? 

[Spyridon]

Got another delivery today:


Guess what it is...

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Stencils!!!   


It's a little intimidating seeing all those sheets.  9 in total.  Red, blue, and black for each side.




Here you can see the comparison to a real cab for the level of detail:

[Level42]

Now that's the way to go, no freaking stickers !

Please document the process with lots of pics, I'm going to have to do some stencilling on my Joust cab sooner or later.....

[Spyridon]

Please document the process with lots of pics, I'm going to have to do some stencilling on my Joust cab sooner or later.....

Oh, you can guarantee there will be lots of photos!

[orion]

OK, so where did ya score those! Now we are on to the part that I have been waiting for!!! I have really been dying to see you get going on this considering how good you are with painting your cabs. I hated to put stickers on mine, and It will be great to see someone who really knows what they are doing document the process. If this paint job comes close to your Gorf it will be awsome!

[Spyridon]

Well, this will be my first attempt with Stencils.  Hopefully it will turn out well.

[orion]

Well, this will be my first attempt with Stencils.  Hopefully it will turn out well.

I got faith in ya! 

[WunderCade]

Well, this will be my first attempt with Stencils.  Hopefully it will turn out well.

Very cool. Can't wait to see your progress pics. Quite resourceful....You just pulled a rabbit out of hat....as good Pac stencils like that are virtually impossible to get. Congrats!

[Spyridon]

Inner plastic bezel has been acquired and should be here on Saturday.

I have confirmed that the Ms. Pac-man bezel is different and won't work.  Yes, I could modify it to work, but with all the trouble I've gone through to get authentic parts, why do that.  I'm sure the seller will refund my money as I did specifically ask for pac-man.  Anyone have one for sale?  If not, I'll get one from two-bits (but I'd really rather not buy from them).

[Level42]

Isn't the Galaxian one the same ? Maybe look for that ?

[Spyridon]

Isn't the Galaxian one the same ? Maybe look for that ?

Yes, Midway used the same one for Pac-man and Galaxian.  After that, they utilized the Ms. Pac version on all of their games (Tron, Satan's Hollow, Galaga, Spy Hunter, etc.).  Tapper and Timber had different bezel designs, so I guess they switched again at that point.

[Spyridon]

If I understand correctly the joystick is somewhat below the metal panel but not much, right ?. The bolts that hold the joystick to the wood look to be fixed on the wood as I can only see the two bolts that hold the wood to the metal CP on the top-side. Are the bolts that hold the joystick to the wood recessed ? What top do they have ?

Level42,
Here are some pictures of the underside of the wood:



The joystick just sits directly on the metal:


with these flat head screws going through the joystick and then through the wood:

These screws do not go through the metal panel, so they are not visible from the top

[Spyridon]

I started stripping down the cabinet to prepare it for painting.  I ran into a snag when I went to remove the coin door.  The nuts holding it into place are buried into the wood:


The screws are part of the metal case around the coin door, so they do not turn.  I don't know how they got these nuts on so far?  This one in the picture is one of the better ones as the others are even farther into the wood.  I'm not sure how I'm going to get these out.

[Spyridon]

...and on a totally unrelated subject.  I got a nice delivery in the mail on Friday

[SirPeale]

I'm not sure how I'm going to get these out.

Bent needle-nose pliers is how I do it.

[Level42]

...and on a totally unrelated subject.  I got a nice delivery in the mail on Friday

{Insert MAJOR envy here} Where did you get those ? Is this from the last stock they have/had ?

I am seriously thinking about getting a couple of new monitors. While they last.


Thanks for the pictures Spyri !

For my Puckman I think I will go this way: I've scanned the CP. I hope I can find a kind soul to vectorize and restore the colors etc. It shouldn't be very hard as the artwork is very simple. Then I'll have mamemarquees print it. My major worry about that is getting the size and position of the holes correct.

So, the new art will be a vinyl CPO, I don't see any other way I can restore it.(I guess the ultimate would be a stencil set and then spraying but that would be _much_ more complicated.)

The bonus of using the vinyl is that I can cover all those tiny holes around the joystick which are so fugly.

Then, I could either mount it like the original pac, or I was thinking of I could get someone to weld some threaded post so I could directly mount it to the CP.... but it will probably be the first option.

[Spyridon]

{Insert MAJOR envy here} Where did you get those ? Is this from the last stock they have/had ?

Yeah, this seems to be it from Happs for these monitors.  I ordered these several weeks back.  I got one universal mount which they had in stock and sent immediately.  The three shelf mounts were on back order.  They said once they got those in, that was the last of them.

[orion]

I started stripping down the cabinet to prepare it for painting.  I ran into a snag when I went to remove the coin door.  The nuts holding it into place are buried into the wood:


The screws are part of the metal case around the coin door, so they do not turn.  I don't know how they got these nuts on so far?  This one in the picture is one of the better ones as the others are even farther into the wood.  I'm not sure how I'm going to get these out.

I have found that the easiest way to get nuts out that are embedded in wood like that is to go after them with vice grips.

[orion]

{Insert MAJOR envy here} Where did you get those ? Is this from the last stock they have/had ?

Yeah, this seems to be it from Happs for these monitors.  I ordered these several weeks back.  I got one universal mount which they had in stock and sent immediately.  The three shelf mounts were on back order.  They said once they got those in, that was the last of them.

It's a shame they have done away with them, they are great monitors. Great score on getting the last ones produced.

[Spyridon]

I have found that the easiest way to get nuts out that are embedded in wood like that is to go after them with vice grips.

Some of them are so burried that I don't think I can get the grips on them.  I'll try the bent needle-nose as I think that will get it.  Maybe go with the vice grips on the ones that are higher up.

[orion]

I have found that the easiest way to get nuts out that are embedded in wood like that is to go after them with vice grips.

Some of them are so burried that I don't think I can get the grips on them.  I'll try the bent needle-nose as I think that will get it.  Maybe go with the vice grips on the ones that are higher up.

Just be careful not to break those threaded posts, since they are welded to the frame you won't have many options if you break one.

[Spyridon]

I'm considering powder coating the control panel on this.  Since the overlay only covers a small portion of the control panel, I think powder coating will give it a nice look.  I'm not sure if there are any local powder coaters in the area.

I may try the DIY approach.  This link that was posted over in RetroACTIVE's Star Wars thread got me thinking about doing this.  I have access to a garage with an oven to perform the powder coating.  I need to do some more research on it.

Harbor Freight also has a gun available at a cheaper price (and probably quality), but $70 isn't a bad deal.

[orion]

I'm considering powder coating the control panel on this.  Since the overlay only covers a small portion of the control panel, I think powder coating will give it a nice look.  I'm not sure if there are any local powder coaters in the area.

I may try the DIY approach.  This link that was posted over in RetroACTIVE's Star Wars thread got me thinking about doing this.  I have access to a garage with an oven to perform the powder coating.  I need to do some more research on it.

Harbor Freight also has a gun available at a cheaper price (and probably quality), but $70 isn't a bad deal.

If you do go with powder coating co. shop around. The local one in my area wanted $200.00 to powder coat my CPO and coin door and that price didn't include sandblasting/prepwork. Yet in other peoples threads here they seemed to get the same done for around $40.00. At the prices my local shop wants to charge I might have to look into one of those DIY sets myself eventually.

[Level42]

I have found that the easiest way to get nuts out that are embedded in wood like that is to go after them with vice grips.

Some of them are so burried that I don't think I can get the grips on them.  I'll try the bent needle-nose as I think that will get it.  Maybe go with the vice grips on the ones that are higher up.

There's noting holding you back to "damage" the wood around the nut a bit. It's not like it has any function there. I think I used needle-nose pliers (is that the right word), but then the larger version. It was a PITA. (I'm talking about my Galaxian here, but the cabs are almost identical).

[Spyridon]

Pac-man is naked!  Stripped it down today. 

Monitor,wire harness, power supply, PCB all removed: 


Speaker and light bulbs removed:


Coin door removed:

See, I told you it was originally a Pac-man!


Now it's ready to move into the garage for the body work!

[Spyridon]

On the left side of the cab, near the top there is a bolt that goes nowhere.  Doesn't come through to the inside. 


I don't think this is stock, but it appears to have some yellow paint on it?  Can anyone confirm if this should be there?

[Spyridon]

Let's take a look at the work I have ahead of me...

Coin door is in rough shape (but I have some experience restoring Midway coin doors)

Time to order a replacement logo plate:


Deep scratches on the side

Security bar holes

Flaking wood on the top and interior

Rough edges all over the place


Back door has a chunk taken out of it


I will use the old back door as a template for a new one.  I'll probably cut it out of plywood.

Lots of cosmetic work ahead of me, but nothing that can't be done.

[WunderCade]

Nope, no bolt should NOT be in that location. Looks like you have a nice bondo session ahead.

[Spyridon]

Nope, no bolt should NOT be in that location. Looks like you have a nice bondo session ahead.

Yeah, I was 99% sure it didn't belong, but the yellow paint threw me.  I have no idea why it is there.

Time to pick up the large size bondo container for this one!

[orion]

I didn't realize that cab was in that bad of shape, but I'm glad to see your finally getting around to the good stuff!  Hope you got a decent belt sander...

[Spyridon]

Sold the Arkanoid II PCB today.

Cab purchase $90 - PCB sale $60 = $30 for the cab.  Not a bad deal.

[ChadTower]

Hey... without going through the whole thread, I just pulled a whole box of Pac parts out of my shed... are there any parts you're still looking for?

[Spyridon]

Hey... without going through the whole thread, I just pulled a whole box of Pac parts out of my shed... are there any parts you're still looking for?

Yes, there is only 1 part that I still need.  I'm looking for the inner plastic monitor bezel.
 

[WunderCade]

You may have to bite the bullet and go with a vendor that particular piece. Like twobits or mike's.

[Mauzy]

Thats that one piece that I need to make two of my cabinets complete, but I just can't make myself spend $60 after shipping (for both) for a little piece of plastic that you can barely see...

[Spyridon]

You may have to bite the bullet and go with a vendor that particular piece. Like twobits or mike's.

Mikesarcade only seems to have them for Galaga and Ms. Pac's.  They are only $25 at twobits, and will go that route if I can't find one.  Had one sent to me and it ended up being for a Ms. Pac and didn't fit.

[Spyridon]

Thats that one piece that I need to make two of my cabinets complete, but I just can't make myself spend $60 after shipping (for both) for a little piece of plastic that you can barely see...

Yeah, but it does make a difference.  Really blocks out the outside of the monitor that you can still see through the bezel.  Wouldn't look right without it.  (that said, some black contruction paper would serve the same purpose)

[Spyridon]

You may have to bite the bullet and go with a vendor that particular piece. Like twobits or mike's.

Bezel has been acquired!

[Spyridon]

Now that some of the household projects are out of the way, I can finally get back to this.

Moved the cab to the garage today to begin the body work


First step is to remove the Revenge of Doh side art.  The tools needed - heat gun and scraper:



I used the heat gun to get it started and then just pulled it off:


On side two, I decided to go the quicker way and use the heat gun and scraper on the whole side.  Leaves some adhesive residue this way, but since I'll be stripping the whole side it doesn't matter:


Makes a mess, but easy cleanup


Pulled what was left of the t-molding.  It was so brittle that it just broke into pieces:


Next, I removed the vent screens from the back for cleanup:


I want to remove the logo plate on the back, but it appears to be glued on as well as held by the metal studs.  Anyone know how to remove this and keep it in good condition?  I tried prying it off with a screw driver, but it just bends up the edges.


Also, I checked into that unknow carriage bolt on the side of the cab.  Turns out it's just a thumb tack:

[csa3d]

I want to remove the logo plate on the back, but it appears to be glued on as well as held by the metal studs.  Anyone know how to remove this and keep it in good condition?  I tried prying it off with a screw driver, but it just bends up the edges.

I just pried mine off, bending it.. then went to ThisOldGame.com and ordered a brand new silk screen reproduction plate for 15$.   Looks like Rob is redoing his website, and it's got a lot of navigation bugs currently.  I'd email him and ask if he's still selling them before prying.  They look identical if you get one!

-csa

[Spyridon]

I just pried mine off, bending it.. then went to ThisOldGame.com and ordered a brand new silk screen reproduction plate for 15$.   

Yeah, I was thinking about going that route.  I'm guessing the TOG one didn't come with the four mounting studs?  I'll try and save the old ones.

[Level42]

Yes it does come with mounting hardware.

[Spyridon]

Yes it does come with mounting hardware.

Unfortunately, Rich is out of stock on these and isn't sure if he is going to do another run.  Guess I'll have to work harder at saving mine.  Maybe I can just mask it off instead of removing it.

[Spyridon]

This weekend, I spent some time stripping the old paint off the cab.

I used Citristrip to take off the old paint.  Just apply and wait a few hours for the paint to bubble up.


Here is the first side with the Citristrip applied:

Waited a few hours and the paint just scrapes off:

I had a few spots that didn't come up so I did a second application to those spots and this is what I ended up with:


Repeat for the second side.  This time I put the stripper on a little thicker to avoid it drying up like it did in a few spots on the first side.

Nice bubbling action:

And finally:


Next the front side:


Once the sides were stripped, I used an orbital sander to remove the remaining paint and smooth out the sides

Here you can see the difference between the top part that was sanded and the bottom remaining part


Completed left and right sides:


Next I cleaned up the inside with a quick hit of the sander.  Still need to touch it up some more, but it looks much better.  Before and after:


On the back, I masked off the logo plate and applied the paint stripper


See...it really was a pac-man


Next up is to sand down the front, top, and back.  Also need to work on the front area around the monitor.  Once that is done, I can begin the bondo work.

[Spyridon]

Did some more cab clean up this weekend.

Top and back:

Front:


Here is where we are currently at:


Need to get the back door cut and strip the bottom rear panel.  A little touch up with some sand paper to get the spots I couldn't reach with the orbital sander and then we are ready for the bondo.

[Level42]

I still can't believe that that Citristrip stuff is not available here....looks to do magic ! And from what I understand it's (pretty) environment friendly.


Maybe I should start importing the stuff....

[Spyridon]

I still can't believe that that Citristrip stuff is not available here....looks to do magic ! And from what I understand it's (pretty) environment friendly.


Maybe I should start importing the stuff....

Plus...it smells good (as long as you like oranges).  And you can smell it without worrying about what you are breathing.

[Spyridon]

Used the Citristrip / orbital sander on the last remaing part of the cab.  The lower back section.  Now it's ready for the bondo treatment.

[SirPeale]

Looks like you need some leg levelers.  I have them in my store.

Also, don't forget to remove that steel piece from the bottom and paint it.

[Spyridon]

Also, don't forget to remove that steel piece from the bottom and paint it.

Yep, I was planning on doing that.

[King Nerd]

Looks in great shape. You've done great work so far. Keep it up!

I'm very envious. I have no projects right now. Lookin' for a Pac or DK/Jr.
Hopefully I'll be able to get a Pac and use your restore as a guide.

Thanks

[Spyridon]

More work on the back door today (aren't vacation days great!).

First I pulled the vent screens off of the old broken back door


Next, I clamped the old door and new door together and used it as a template to cut new vent holes.  The magic of the router made this a pretty easy task:


And the final product:


All that's left is to cut the hole for the lock, but I think I'll wait until after it's all painted.

*** door is upside down to make the comparison to the other holes easier.  It will be turned the correct way for the final product.

[Mimatt]

Are those stencils still obtainable?? I'm about to start work on my Paccy, that I've been putting off for 3 years, And really don't wanna have to use those god-awful stickers.

PM me if you can hook me up with a set. The only sideart I tend to run into has those obvious errors in the wooshing behind the letters.

I'm really stuck on the back door part, on mine. Mine broke into several pieces, and I don't have a template to work from, to make a new one.

I love that new monitor smell.

Do you have a better picture on how you spliced the new monitors power supply into the original, and where and how you grounded it? I found a new Happ, and I'd like to use the isolation transformer, instead of having to rig a power strip in the machine.

Thanks!

[Mimatt]

(sorry, double post)

[Tarman]

MORE, MORE!!! GREAT THREAD~

Sorry for the CAPS, I really am that excited about this!!!

[Spyridon]

Today was a major bondo day.  This cab needed a lot of it. 



I applied and sanded the first pass of bondo.  I got most of the spots and just need to go back with a touch up to get some spots that need a bit more.

[Spyridon]

Did some work on the coin door today.  This one is in pretty bad shape but at least it's not dented or banged up:


First step was to remove the Midway logo plate (I have a new one on the way from TOG)

I used a drill press and drilled out the rivets from the back.  I was careful to only cut away enough to remove the rivet and not damage the top.  I'm going to use these on the new plate to give it an original look even though they won't be holding the plate in place.  The bad news is one of the rivets went flying and is lost for good.  I think I have a spare Midway coin door that I can pull one off of.

Next up, it was time to sand blast


The sand blasting does a great job, but it's slow and messy (even with the blasting cabinet).  It's nice on the coin door back with all the ridges and small areas, but I think I'll go back to the drill and wire wheel for the remaining pieces.  (That is unless I find a  powder coater locally that can do this for me)

Here is the coin door fresh out of the cabinet.  Still need to clean it off, but it does look nice.

[Spyridon]

I noticed this weekend that it looks like I have a few extra holes in my control panel. 



I'm guessing the outer two holes are correct and the inner two need to be fixed?  Can someone with a Pac-man confirm this?

[SirPeale]

I noticed this weekend that it looks like I have a few extra holes in my control panel. 



I'm guessing the outer two holes are correct and the inner two need to be fixed?  Can someone with a Pac-man confirm this?

The holes on the right are for the P1/P2 buttons.  Pac Man has no other buttons.

[WunderCade]

I think he is referring to the bottom portion.

You're correct, the two smaller outer holes (on each side) are where wood screws secure the wood backing, those other two (inner most) do not belong.

[orion]

I think he is referring to the bottom portion.

You're correct, the two smaller outer holes (on each side) are where wood screws secure the wood backing, those other two (inner most) do not belong.

Those are the only two holes I see in his picture that do not belong,

[SirPeale]

Oops...I didn't let the images load when I replied.  Now it makes sense. 

[Spyridon]

The holes on the right are for the P1/P2 buttons.  Pac Man has no other buttons.

Come on...you have to give me more credit than that!   

Yes, I was referring to the 4 holes on the bottom section of the panel.  It looks like I will need to fill in the inner most holes as they don't belong.

[Spyridon]

Worked on the metal parts tonight.  First up was the control panel. 

I needed to remove the old overlay.  Using a heat gun and metal scraper, it was off in about 30 seconds

I used a wire wheel on the drill to remove the paint and rust on the front but when I hit the spot under the overlay, I hit a snag.  Too much adhesive was still on the panel making the wire wheel gum up. Time to pull out the Citristrip. 

One hour later after a quick scrape it was practically down to the bare metal


While I was waiting for the control panel to soak, I worked on a few more pieces.

Monitor brace (before and after):

That metal bar on the back bottom of the cab (before and after):

Marquee brackets (top before and after):

(bottom before and after):


Old rusted parts are now shiny and new, just waiting for a new coat of paint.

[Mimatt]

You're lucky you have a sandblasting shelf. 
I sanded my control panel by hand - not fun. 

Does This Old Game have the coin door plates with the pegs, or are they the sticky kind? What are you using to clean the small metal parts, besides a dremel?

I've been using a dremel w/abrasive buffs, and Tarnex or Brasso for the bolts, screws and coin door chutes. I like the buffs better than the steel brushes - it's almost a fine steel wool consistency. They seem alot less harsh than the wire wheels. Plus you get 2 in a pack. But on the negative side, they seem to wear out a bit faster than the wheels.

[Spyridon]

You're lucky you have a sandblasting shelf. 
I sanded my control panel by hand - not fun. 

I ended up doing my control panel by hand.  It really wasn't that bad if you use Citristrip first (see previous post picture).  The sandblasting just takes too long.  Need to figure out a better way to do that.

Does This Old Game have the coin door plates with the pegs, or are they the sticky kind? What are you using to clean the small metal parts, besides a dremel?

You can get the plate with or without holes.  They don't provide the rivets.

I've been using a dremel w/abrasive buffs, and Tarnex or Brasso for the bolts, screws and coin door chutes. I like the buffs better than the steel brushes - it's almost a fine steel wool consistency. They seem alot less harsh than the wire wheels. Plus you get 2 in a pack. But on the negative side, they seem to wear out a bit faster than the wheels.

I'll be using the dremel with wire brush followed by Brasso on the coin door bolts (but your getting ahead of me)

[Spyridon]

Finished stripping the control panel today



Next up is to use some bondo on the two extra holes on the front of the panel then paint

[SirPeale]

re: the coin door plate.  They're not rivets.  Closest thing I can find is something called "snaps".  I found some in a scrapbook store, but they're not long enough to mount thru the door itself.  They would, however, go thru the plate just fine.

[orion]

re: the coin door plate.  They're not rivets.  Closest thing I can find is something called "snaps".  I found some in a scrapbook store, but they're not long enough to mount thru the door itself.  They would, however, go thru the plate just fine.

Cool, great info.

[Spyridon]

Finished up the bondo today.

Filled in the extra holes on the front of the control panel.  I put some duct tape on the inside followed by some cardboard and more duct tape to keep the bondo from pushing through. 


Next, finished the second coat on the main cab.  The entire back edge on both sides needed a lot of work

Security bar holes filled on the front


Needed lots of bondo all the way around, but now she is ready to paint


And speaking of paint, I picked this up on Friday (and yes, this is all for pac-man):

[Spyridon]

Sprayed the back of the metal pieces with Rustoleum Satin Black paint (still wet)



The coin door back got a coat of Rustoleum Textured Black paint

[SirPeale]

It's a lot easier painting the coin door if you disassemble it first.

[WunderCade]

Ahh...looks like you're going to clear coat that cab when finished. 

Can't wait to watch you stencil that puppy! 

[Spyridon]

It's a lot easier painting the coin door if you disassemble it first.

This worked just as well.  Spray it with it closed, then open it up and get the missed parts.  This way, when I flip it over to the front, I can keep it closed and get everything covered.

[Spyridon]

Ahh...looks like you're going to clear coat that cab when finished. 

Yep.  This will be my first time using automotive paint.  I'll be adding a coat of clear at the end.

[orion]

Ahh...looks like you're going to clear coat that cab when finished. 

Yep.  This will be my first time using automotive paint.  I'll be adding a coat of clear at the end.

I didn't even catch that that was automotive paint you are are going to be using. Damn that's going to look good!

[Spyridon]

Forgot to mention that I put a coat of primer on the control panel before applying the black paint.  I don't usually use primer when using the Rustoleum paint, but since I had the bondo on the front, I wanted to make sure I had a good layer of primer to help even everything out. 



Can't even tell the holes were ever there!

[Spyridon]

The wait is over...the painting begins!!!!

Cab was prepped for painting.  It's important to clean it really good and get any remaining dust particles off with a tack cloth.



First coat of primer was sprayed on:



I'll sand it down a bit and then give it a second coat.  I spent a little more money to get the white primer.  I wanted a coat of white under the yellow to really make it pop.  The white primer saves me a step of having to coat it with white after the primer.  Avoiding an extra clean up (clean up sucks with anything except latex paints) is worth it.

[Spyridon]

I sanded down the cab with 320 grit sandpaper then applied a second coat of paint.



Next color on the block = black

[Level42]

I was always told to use a dark colored primer for dark (black) finishes because else the primer "shines through" ?
Guess an extra layer will probably fix it, but it's one of those "rules" you always hear.

[WunderCade]

I was always told to use a dark colored primer for dark (black) finishes because else the primer "shines through" ?
Guess an extra layer will probably fix it, but it's one of those "rules" you always hear.

Black paint will cover white primer with no problems, and I think he is referring to the inside monitor area for the black.  The cab will be Yellow, which warrants using the white primer. He may even consider spraying another coat of primer with the yellow pigment in it to give the yellow top coats more depth.

Can't wait for the stenciling portion.

[Brogner]

I've been away from this board for a long time.  I have to say this thread is something I will follow.
You are doing an awesome job on this and I will love to see how it comes out.  Maybe it will inspire me to get mine done.

[Level42]

I was always told to use a dark colored primer for dark (black) finishes because else the primer "shines through" ?
Guess an extra layer will probably fix it, but it's one of those "rules" you always hear.

Black paint will cover white primer with no problems, and I think he is referring to the inside monitor area for the black.  The cab will be Yellow, which warrants using the white primer. He may even consider spraying another coat of primer with the yellow pigment in it to give the yellow top coats more depth.

Can't wait for the stenciling portion.

Hey, I'm very aware of how a Pac cab is colored, of course the black will only be on the inside monitor area, but he used the same primer there right ?

[Spyridon]

Hey, I'm very aware of how a Pac cab is colored, of course the black will only be on the inside monitor area, but he used the same primer there right ?

Yes, same primer, but I'm not expecting to have a problem covering the white.  I've used black over white primer before and didn't have any issues. 

[ElGwako]

If you use the same color with a white primer and a grey primer....you will see a difference. The colors will be more true to color with a gray primer as opposed to a white. Even with 2 coats. Though you couldn't tell much unless you made the comparison.
I carry samples i made to prove this fact since plasterers that prime the walls for customers only use white primer. Also, a lot of pre-primed wood comes white(though i'm seeing it in gray now too). If a customer wants a burgundy wall. I usually insist on a gray prime coat first since it helps on coverage too.


looks like a good project. got me itching to do mine. If i can't get this paint off without ruining whats underneath of course

[Mimatt]

Looking for stencils, or the correct vector file to have stencils made myself, is beginning to get quite (the word "quite" being a large understatement) frustrating. 

I've asked, and asked, and asked around until I'm blue in the face..

I'm seriously about to give up on my Pac-Man. It's been sitting here, for three years, waiting on a set of stencils. Hell, I bought paint stipper, and an orbital sander 6 months ago, and it's still sitting in my garage. The sander has yet to be opened.

[SirPeale]

Hmmm...ask Jeff Rothe.

[Spyridon]

Started cleaning up the parts for the coin door.

Cleaned up the coin inserts with a wire wheel on the dremel.  Still need to polish them, but they look much better.
Front (before and after):

Back (before and after):


Also used the same technique on the bolts that hold these in place:
(before and after):


I finally opened the box that had the inner bezel that was shipped to me a while ago.  Wasn't expecting it to still have the plexi but it will be replaced anyway.  Needs some cleaning up and a coat of flat black paint.


Looks like the plexi is just held in place with double sided tape.

What's the best way to remove old (but still tacky) tape marks?  Goof off?  Goo Gone?

[smalltownguy]

Started cleaning up the parts for the coin door.


What's the best way to remove old (but still tacky) tape marks?  Goof off?  Goo Gone?

Start with Goo Gone. If that doesn't cut it, then you can try Goof Off. Watch out for Goof Off, though, it'll eat through all paint, most laquer, and many other types of finishes. It'll pit metal too, depending on the alloy. Tread lightly. It works though.

[Spyridon]

Started to clean up the coin mechs.  The coin return button is really in bad shape.  Any suggestion on best way to clean it?  I used the dremel on it, but doesn't look great.  I think I'm going to have to paint it.



Peale do you sell replacements of these?  It might be easier just to get a new one.

[Spyridon]

Did the next color paint today. 




I'll check it out tomorrow when it's dry to see if I can get away with just one coat.

[SirPeale]

Peale do you sell replacements of these?  It might be easier just to get a new one.

While mechs are fairly universal - though exceptions exist, of course - these are not.  Sorry man, you're stuck with them.  You may be able to polish them.  They were originally chromed.  Very few of the doors I've worked on in the last ten years had much chrome left on it.

[Silas (son of Silas)]

...Any suggestion on best way to clean it?

The clip below demonstrates using electrolysis on a cast item, but it works well on mild steel too. There are a stack of clips on youtube on how to do this, and the results are pretty amazing.. 

 

[SirPeale]

...Any suggestion on best way to clean it?

The clip below demonstrates using electrolysis on a cast item, but it works well on mild steel too. There are a stack of clips on youtube on how to do this, and the results are pretty amazing.. 

I have a lengthy thread in Arcade Misc regarding this.  I don't think it's right for this application, however.  Simple handwork will remove the existing rust easily, but won't do anything for the shine.

[orion]

Started to clean up the coin mechs.  The coin return button is really in bad shape.  Any suggestion on best way to clean it?  I used the dremel on it, but doesn't look great.  I think I'm going to have to paint it.



Peale do you sell replacements of these?  It might be easier just to get a new one.

I'd try some of this stuff in the spray can variety http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/products.html Every midway coin return I have come across has been in a similar state. Your right, there is only so much you can do to clean those up with a dremmel and some polish.

[Spyridon]

Looks like I'll have to clean it up and spray it.  That liquid stainless steel looks interesting.

[Spyridon]

Removed the masking.

Nice straight lines on the black


Next, I masked off the black

[Spyridon]

We've got YELLOW!!!!!!!

Applied the first coat of yellow today.  Nice and bright

[Malenko]

looks great, been following this thread for a while now; one of my fave reads

[WunderCade]

That yellow looks nice.  Have you decided on when to apply the blue speckling?  There are not any blue specks within the actual artwork areas on the original paint job, so this tells me they either masked the artwork and speckled it, or the did it before they stenciled the artwork on the cab.

[Spyridon]

That yellow looks nice.  Have you decided on when to apply the blue speckling?  There are not any blue specks within the actual artwork areas on the original paint job, so this tells me they either masked the artwork and speckled it, or the did it before they stenciled the artwork on the cab.

I'm planning on doing the blue speckles after the yellow and before using the stencils.

[Silas (son of Silas)]

YELLOW!!! That's got to feel pretty good to see that going on? Thats a huge transformation. I'm a HUGE fan of yellow arcade machines 

[Spyridon]

YELLOW!!! That's got to feel pretty good to see that going on? Thats a huge transformation. I'm a HUGE fan of yellow arcade machines 

Yeah it does.  It's finally starting to look like Pac-man.  Maybe I'll just stop here and put it between two other games?      NOT!

[Spyridon]

Second coat of yellow paint was applied today:

[Spyridon]

Coat number 3 of Yellow:

[WunderCade]

Is that the final coat of yellow?  lol

I think we are all right there with ya about tackling the stencil.  But there's only one way to know....

[Superully]

i'll be starting my pac-man restoration shortly and i'm curious to know how much paint you bought for each colour. could you give me something to work with, please?

i'm still struggling to find the correct colours, too. The colours on my twobits repro overlay are completely different from the one on my cab (blue and red are much darker on the overlay, yellow isn't that bright and "poppy"). did you match your colours to the cab's original colours or to the repro overlay?

[Spyridon]

i'll be starting my pac-man restoration shortly and i'm curious to know how much paint you bought for each colour. could you give me something to work with, please?

i'm still struggling to find the correct colours, too. The colours on my twobits repro overlay are completely different from the one on my cab (blue and red are much darker on the overlay, yellow isn't that bright and "poppy"). did you match your colours to the cab's original colours or to the repro overlay?

I got the paint codes from someone on KLOV that had them computer matched.  I think he matched the yellow to the original cab and the other colors to the repro CPO (but I'm not sure).  I'll post the paint codes and sizes later in the week (I'm out of town on business right now)

[Spyridon]

Is that the final coat of yellow?  lol

I think we are all right there with ya about tackling the stencil.  But there's only one way to know....

What?  You guys don't like to see repeating pictures of yellow cabs?

I may do one more coat of yellow, because I have paint left.  I don't plan on doing another pac-man so I may as well use it.  I'll look over the cab later and see what it looks like.  If I can get time to paint on Thursday night, I'll add one more yellow.  No matter what, I will be painting the first stencil on Saturday!

[Superully]

I got the paint codes from someone on KLOV that had them computer matched.  I think he matched the yellow to the original cab and the other colors to the repro CPO (but I'm not sure).  I'll post the paint codes and sizes later in the week (I'm out of town on business right now)

problem is that you guys in the usa have other base colours than we europeans, so i guess the paint codes aren't of any use, or am i wrong here? can those american codes be applied to european base colours?

[Spyridon]

problem is that you guys in the usa have other base colours than we europeans, so i guess the paint codes aren't of any use, or am i wrong here? can those american codes be applied to european base colours?

Well, in this case, the paint I'm using is PPG automotive paint.  They may be international?

If it came down to it, I can facilitate shipping the paint to you (can you ship paint?), but then you are adding costs to what is already very expensive paint.

[Silas (son of Silas)]

...problem is that you guys in the usa have other base colours than we europeans, so i guess the paint codes aren't of any use, or am i wrong here? can those american codes be applied to european base colours?

I have had vehicle paints mixed for spraying really old cars many times in the UK. Its really common for the pigments to no longer be available or for pigments to be specified that were never available in the UK. Most dedicated paint suppliers can deal with that and can cross reference to those that are available.

You could use the American Auto paint codes to get a can of Nitro mixed up using European pigment equivalents, then spray a piece of steel, card or whatever that you could then take to somewhere like Homebase (in the UK, but I'm sure all countries have DIY stores that can do the same) and they would be able to colour match it and produce paint in whatever finish you require (low VOC gloss, eggshell, satin or whatever)

My MAME build will be finished with Formica Laminate in chrome yellow on the outside but the inside of the cab will be colour matched and painted in Dulux eggshell using the sample card of laminate supplied by Formica. Homebase can just as easily colour match an original colour of a cab if can get a sample. Getting the Auto paint mixed up seems like a long winded way of achieving this but at least its an option?

[smalltownguy]

I work at an auto dealership that uses PPG. I'd bet that if you provided PPG with the paint codes, they'd be able to assist with matching for other methods.

[Spyridon]

Here are the paint codes I used:

RED

M119 44.5
M154 205.0
M107 34.3
M118 0.3
M150 233.3


BLUE

M119 111.4
M121 79.2
M122 26.4
M117 10.2
M128 40.2
M150 266.3


YELLOW

M152 223.8
M119 34.8
M106 0.6
M118 0.6
M150 259.9

These are for OMNI AU MBC paint which is manufactured by PPG

[Spyridon]

I'm going to be starting the stencil process tomorrow and realized that I don't know the location of the artwork.  Can someone measure the location (distance from top, bottom, left, and right) for the sides and front.

[Spyridon]

I'm going to be starting the stencil process tomorrow

I just realized that I can't do the stencils yet.  I need to do the blue splatter first.

[ZORK2]

NICE WORK MAN!! Looks GREAT!! Can't wait to see how the blue paint splatter turns out. Don't forget the top and back door were splattered with blue too! Looking forward to seeing how the stencils turn out!!

[Spyridon]

I need to do the blue splatter first.

Blue splatter is done.

Tools needed: One new toothbrush


Dip the brush in the thinned paint and then flick the bristles to spray the blue paint.  Works great!  Just be sure to stand far enough away so that you don't drip on the cab.  You'll end up dripping a lot of paint straight down below your hand.




Not the easiest thing to photograph, but it looks really good in person.

[orion]

I'm going to be starting the stencil process tomorrow and realized that I don't know the location of the artwork.  Can someone measure the location (distance from top, bottom, left, and right) for the sides and front.

Not my machine BTW

Edit: I don't have the front dimensions on hand at the moment.

[Spyridon]

Thanks Orion that is perfect.  I did find out that my stecils are cut so that if you align the back edge to the cab, it should be positioned correctly left to right.  Just need to align it in the correct spot from the top and bottom.

Also, somewhat of a disapointment, the side stencils are red, blue black, but the front is blue, red, black.  Just causes more work and more paint clean up.

[WunderCade]

Are you using the air pump technique or the paintbrush bristle technique for the blue splatter?  I know that you can adjust the actual spray gun to splatter but I've never attempted it.

[Spyridon]

Are you using the air pump technique or the paintbrush bristle technique for the blue splatter?  I know that you can adjust the actual spray gun to splatter but I've never attempted it.

Look at the post on the previous page

[WunderCade]

Doh! Sorry. Don't know how I missed that one.

Just for reference. Here are some shots of the original splatter to give you an idea of how dense the splatter pattern is (it's pretty consistent over the entire cab):

[orion]

Thanks Orion that is perfect.  I did find out that my stecils are cut so that if you align the back edge to the cab, it should be positioned correctly left to right.  Just need to align it in the correct spot from the top and bottom.

Also, somewhat of a disapointment, the side stencils are red, blue black, but the front is blue, red, black.  Just causes more work and more paint clean up.

I'm glad those pictures help you. I wonder if they have the stencil order like that for a reason, or if that was just an accident. In any case, its kind of strange. I can see how that is going to be kind of a PITA with the clean up considering your not using latex paint.

[Spyridon]

Just for reference. Here are some shots of the original splatter to give you an idea of how dense the splatter pattern is (it's pretty consistent over the entire cab):

Wow, that's a lot more blue than I remember.  I did have some reference shots and it isn't as dense on the one I have photos of.  I may have to go back and add a bit more blue.

[WunderCade]

Yeah. That's what I was thinking looking at your pics - not enough dots.  So, I thought I'd post some reference shots for ya.

[Silas (son of Silas)]

I really enjoy your resto threads. You seem to approach your cab restores the same way I restore cars. Step by meticulous step. The density of blue speck won't make one jot of difference to the game play when its done, nor would anyone even notice if you left it the way it is, but its that totally 'pointless' pursuit of details that I really appreciate and identify with in your work.

[Spyridon]

Yeah. That's what I was thinking looking at your pics - not enough dots.  So, I thought I'd post some reference shots for ya.

Thanks for the photos Wundercade.

I did a second pass of the blue splatter today:


Looks closer to the pictures above. (again, it's hard to photograph, but there is a lot of blue there)  I think it looks pretty good.

[WunderCade]

I think it looks good.  Ready for the stencils....

[Spyridon]

Well, I was sitting on the couch watching the Phillies game and I thought to myself, "Hey, I could be doing something productive while watching this game", so I pulled out the control panel and applied the overlay.

Items needed:
1 freshly painted control panel
1 CPO
tape
scissors
plastic burnishing tool (or whatever it's called)
beer - apply as needed



The first thing I did was line up the overlay and use some tape to hold it in place.  Blue tape works well as it is low tack, but just to be safe, I stuck it on the work surface first to take off any heavy residue.  You only need to tape the middle and one end as you will be working first from the end without tape (It's easiest to work with the top of the control panel facing you)


Working from the tapeless end, peel back to overlay, being careful that the remaining parts stay in place

Next, use your scissors to cut a few inches of the backing off

Lay the overlay in place, and use the burnishing tool to press it down good.

Next, remove the tape and pick up the other end of the overlay

Remove the backing slowly, beginning from the cut side, while at the same time you press the overlay into place. 

Use the burnishing tool again to press the entire overlay into place.

The result...a beautiful looking control panel:


(by the way, notice how well those extra holes on the front of the control panel cleaned up.  You can't even tell they were ever there)

[Level42]

Nice work !

Tip: instead of the tape you simply could have installed the buttons temporarily. Like this:



http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62784.msg671270#msg671270

[Spyridon]

Nice work !

Tip: instead of the tape you simply could have installed the buttons temporarily. Like this:

Yeah, I considered that but went with the tape instead.  You can see in one of the pictures above there is a button on the side that I was going to use.

[Spyridon]

Okay, the part we've all been waiting for....

The stencil process has begun!

Step 1:
Line up the left side RED stencil in the correct position.  Wasn't as hard as I thought as the stencil is set so that you just align the back edge to the left edge of the cab and everything lines up from left to right.  You just need to set the correct distance from the top.  Use tape to hold it in place.


Step 2:
Use the hinge method as follows:
     * Remove tape from the top of the stencil and peel back a few inches
     * Cut off the backing from the part you peeled back
     * Apply the top section of the stencil to the cab and press into place
     * Remove all the tape
     * Working from the top down, slowly peel back a few inches at a time.  As you do this, press the decal into place with a plastic burnishing tool like this one (if you don't have one, a credit card will proabably work):

     * Once the stencil is in place, peel off the protective layer


Step 3:
Repeat for the other side



Step 4:
Cover up all the areas that you don't want to get paint on


Step 5: (the fun step)
Paint!


Step 6:
Remove the stencils:

This automotive paint dries very quickly so you can remove the stencils within minutes of painting.  I didn't want to leave them on too long and let the paint really harden up and risk pulling some of it off when removing the stencil

The stencil uses registration marks (pac-man shaped) to line up the next two layers of stencils.  You must remember to leave these on the cab and not remove them after painting




Step 7:
Admire your work


The first color is the easiest since you don't have to worry about aligning it to the previous colors.  That will be a challange.  Since the first color of the front stencils is blue, I'm going to do that when I do the second pass on the sides.

[orion]

 

[Silas (son of Silas)]

Looking good so far...   

[ZORK2]

Spyridon that looks AMAZING!! Way to go!! Can't wait to see the finished product! Where did you find the stencil kit?  I'm concidering redoing my pacman someday. There is no way I'm going to use decals on it!! I'm going to suffer through stenciling it just as you are!!!

[Level42]

That is going to be very beautiful.

So, the speckles are only over the yellow paint ? Somehow I had the idea that they were also over the artwork (which seems pretty weird to do know, don't know how I got that idea).

[WunderCade]

How are the Red edges? Any ridging problems?

[Spyridon]

So, the speckles are only over the yellow paint ? Somehow I had the idea that they were also over the artwork (which seems pretty weird to do know, don't know how I got that idea).

Yes, the blue speckles were put down first then the artwork.  You probably got that idea becuase the speckles show up on pac-man as he stays the base color.

[Spyridon]

How are the Red edges? Any ridging problems?

If you run your hand across the cab, you can definitely feel the edges of the red paint.  I don't think it will be a problem (especially when the clear coat covers the entire side), however, I'm debating if I should lightly sand it.  I'm concerned about taking too much off.

[WunderCade]

Yeah, Phet lightly sanded that Taito EE cab resto he did on recommendation from Brian (I think). Any way, the clear coat made it perfect according to Phet.

[Spyridon]

Yeah, I might do that, but I need to be careful because I'll have to sand again on the other colors.  Need to make sure I don't take too much off.

[Spyridon]

Can someone tell me what color the bolts on the control panel are?  Are they painted black or are they silver?

[orion]

Can someone tell me what color the bolts on the control panel are?  Are they painted black or are they silver?

Mine were coated in rust, but they had appeared to be painted black at one time, so that's what I painted them. Also everyone I have ever seen appeared to have black bolts.

[SirPeale]

BTW, they're not painted, they're blued. 

[Spyridon]

BTW, they're not painted, they're blued. 

One of these days I need to pick up the stuff to do that.

[SirPeale]

I got mine @ a sporting store.  Expensive, but worth it.

[MaximRecoil]

BTW, they're not painted, they're blued. 

If one's looking for bolts with the correct finish already applied at the factory, then the term they typically use is "black oxide". Bluing is black oxide but bluing usually refers to a thinner coat of black oxide, and is mostly used in the gun industry.

The quick and easy "cold blue" chemicals you can buy do not provide a very durable finish. On guns, "cold blue" is usually only used for touch-ups, as it would not hold up for long as the main finish for the gun. However, if you want the best cold bluing solution, get Brownell's Oxpho-Blue (link).

Hot salt bluing is what is typically used by manufacturers and gunsmiths for complete finishes, as it is among the most effective and durable methods of bluing; though it is not particularly practical to set up at home for a few bolts. However, if there is a gunsmith in the area, he may throw a few bolts into a tank while bluing a complete gun or something, for a nominal charge.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just get new bolts from MikesArcade.com (link), as they already have a black oxide finish from the factory, and they are not very expensive.

[Spyridon]

if you want the best cold bluing solution, get Brownell's Oxpho-Blue (link).

Thanks for that link.  I may pick up some of that stuff for future work.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just get new bolts from MikesArcade.com (link), as they already have a black oxide finish from the factory, and they are not very expensive.

Well, almost as easy is to do what I did.  I used my dremel to remove the rust on the bolts.  Then planted some mushrooms!


Then spray them black (trust me...they're in there)

[MaximRecoil]

Well, almost as easy is to do what I did.  I used my dremel to remove the rust on the bolts.  Then planted some mushrooms!

Then spray them black (trust me...they're in there)

I think you'd like the looks of black oxide/bluing better than paint. It has an appearance that looks like the black is actually the color of the steel, rather than a coating of paint sitting on top.

[SirPeale]

I used to use my Dremel or a wire wheel to remove the rust, but it was still looking pitted and just...not...good.

I recently started putting the bolts in a drill and polishing them up with progressively higher grades of sandpaper.  Depending on how bad it is I might start as low as 200 grit, then go to 400, then 800.  Shines up old bolts nicely.

And Max Recoil is right about the hot and cold bluing.  But hot bluing isn't feasible for a home setup unless you're hardcore.  Good call on finding a local gunsmith.

[Level42]

Good call on finding a local gunsmith.

No gunsmiths here I guess :S

I agree, I painted the SW bolts black but it looks "wrong" (although much better than rusted). The black doesn't blend in to the blue background as they should.

Now, let me find a gunsmith here....................HAH !

Would those bolts be the same on the Pac Man CP as the Galaxian ? It would be very reasonable to believe so. I thought the Galaxian's were simply "chrome" looking on the flyer so I left them as I bought them:


...or did I sand those myself ? I can't remember !

[Spyridon]

I think you'd like the looks of black oxide/bluing better than paint. It has an appearance that looks like the black is actually the color of the steel, rather than a coating of paint sitting on top.

I agree.  I will look into that for a future project.  Maybe even pull these and redo them at some point.

[WunderCade]

Guess I'm chiming in too late, but the bolt heads on my Pac-man CP are silver like Level42's.  The 2 wood screws are black.

[Level42]

Yeah, Bob Roberts' also sells silver for Pac:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#hardware

(First line)


Get out your sanding paper Spyri.....

[Spyridon]

Guess I'm chiming in too late, but the bolt heads on my Pac-man CP are silver like Level42's.  The 2 wood screws are black.

Yeah, Bob Roberts' also sells silver for Pac:

Hmmm...what to do.  I have to place an order from Bob anyway. When I do, I'll order a set of botls.

Regarding the 2 wood screws, my control panel didn't have anything in there.  Are they just a standard flat top wood screw?

[WunderCade]

They look like standard phillips flat head wood screws, but they are painted so I don't know what the finish is under the paint. Nor do I know the length.

[Level42]

I'm not sure if you mentioned it already, but I assume you're spray painting this ? What method ?

[Spyridon]

I'm not sure if you mentioned it already, but I assume you're spray painting this ? What method ?

Yep.  I'm using a HVLP sprayer.



And a first for me...automotive paint

[Level42]

I feel  stupid, I remember that picture of your compressor now

I have to check my compressor's details if it's enough for the HVLP method. I thought I read somewhere it requires a pretty large compressor.

Is that a full-size basketball in that pic ? If so, your compressor is bigger than mine but it looks like it's a kid-size basketball ?

[Spyridon]

Is that a full-size basketball in that pic ? If so, your compressor is bigger than mine but it looks like it's a kid-size basketball ?

It's a kid-size basketball

[Spyridon]

Okay, finally found some free time to get back to work on this. (Warning - lots of pictures)

I used some 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the edges of all the red paint.  This did an excellent job of taking down the sharp edges left from the stencil. 

Next up was to apply the blue front stencil.


Then the sides.

The trick was to get all the registration marks to line up

Left side in place

And the premask removed:

I did find a few pieces that hadn't been weeded out.  Luckily I discovered these before painting

And the same process for the right side


Masked off and ready to paint:

Blue paint applied:


Now the reveal....

 




I'm very pleased with the way this is turning out.  It looks like the black will cover all the edges and blend the colors nicely.

[WunderCade]

Sweet! Schwing!!! LOL

That seriously looks amazing. 

So, you just sanded along the edges of the paint. Did it create any issues with haze from where you sanded vs. the unsanded parts? The clear coat would probably take care of any of that, right?

[Spyridon]

So, you just sanded along the edges of the paint. Did it create any issues with haze from where you sanded vs. the unsanded parts? The clear coat would probably take care of any of that, right?

No issues.  In fact, just looking at the red, you can't even tell any of it was sanded.  If you run your finger across it, you can feel the difference.  I think it helps since some of these edges end up getting covered by other colors, they won't stick out as much.  And you are right, I expect the clear coat will cover and smooth everything out.


Thanks for the compliments!

[ZORK2]

AWESOME!!! 

[acevedor2]

Where did you get the stencils?  I have looked for them everywhere, and can't seem to find them?  Thanks and beautiful job!
Cheers,
Ray

[Superully]

* deleted *

[acevedor2]

i got mine from talon2000 on the klov forum

Thanks!  Do you know if he sells them, or did he just happen to have a set?

[Superully]

* deleted *

[shred5]

nope, he sells them. give him my regards from the guy from germany 

Not a good idea posting this in a public forum. should have pm'ed him or let the other guy do it if he trusts him. It is illegal and namco does go after people. Stuff like this can ruin the future for everyone who wants stencils.

Dave

[Superully]

didn't know that! perhaps the above posts should be edited / deleted as well ...

[Spyridon]

Time to add the red to the front. 

Stencil lined up with the registration marks and applied

Premask removed


Hmmm...something seems odd around the mouth.  Why would there be yellow masked off?

Let's check my reference material


Okay, the stencils are wrong.  The blue was supposed to come down and fill that area on the corner of the mouth.    I'll have to touch it up with a brush after the red is done.  Looking at the black stencils, the blue area will end up being kind of small and I should be able to fill it and not have it too noticeable.

Another issue is that the eyes were not masked off on the blue stencil.  If they were, red could have been the first color just like the sides (which would have simplified things).  I'm worried that the blue under the eyes would make the red too dark.  I considered going with a coat of white, but decided to just go forward with red.

Cab masked off and ready for painting

I put on several coats of red, giving the paint a few minutes between each to dry a bit.  This was necessary to get a good color on the eyes.  At first it was way too dark and really noticeable when compared to the mouth.  After a few coats, it all evened out  .

Stencil removed

Here is a close up of the mouth area.  I'll need to fill in the yellow on the upper left side of the mouth with blue paint. 


And the current status of the cab:


Once I fix the mouth issue, it will be ready for the last stencils!  I should have time this weekend for the black paint.

[Spyridon]

I used a small paint brush to touch up the missing blue on the mouth area

[Spyridon]

Time for the final stencil!!!!!

Stencils in place and the cab is masked off for painting

Black paint applied


Now the unveiling...


Now the tedious work.  Lot's of small stencil pieces to remove

Starting to get somewhere





 


It turned out great! 



Next up is some clear coat.  Anyone ever use it before?  Do you sand between coats?  Buff when finished?

[opt2not]

Holy cow! I'm completely stunned by how awesome this restoration is turning out. Great job!

[WunderCade]

Wow, that's nice! 

[Majoraslayer]

That looks INCREDIBLE!  I've been watching this thread closely and have been excited the whole time to see the final paint applied.

[Level42]

 

[orion]

I am truly amazed! Before you start your clear coat, I noticed that the midway copyright info is missing. I am only bringing this because I know you have put in a lot of work into the details, and I wouldn't want you to accidentally overlook anything. I don't think it needs it personally. This has got to be one of the best pac man restorations out there, and I enjoyed watching your progress

[Spyridon]

I am truly amazed! Before you start your clear coat, I noticed that the midway copyright info is missing. I am only bringing this because I know you have put in a lot of work into the details, and I wouldn't want you to accidentally overlook anything. I don't think it needs it personally.

Yeah, I picked up on that.  I need to figure out how to get a stencil made for it.

[orion]

I am truly amazed! Before you start your clear coat, I noticed that the midway copyright info is missing. I am only bringing this because I know you have put in a lot of work into the details, and I wouldn't want you to accidentally overlook anything. I don't think it needs it personally.

Yeah, I picked up on that.  I need to figure out how to get a stencil made for it.

If you give me some time, I can take that element from the pac man file at the arcade art library, which is pretty accurate and lay it out for you. You can take it to a print shop and have made up. I have been sick with the flu (don't think it's the swine flu), so I am a bit slow moving this week, but I will see what I can do.

[orion]

I emailed you a file to your hotmail address. Let me know if it works for you.

[slasherman]

Beautiful colors 

[Spyridon]

Since I'm getting to the end of the painting, I need to get moving on some of the little stuff that is left. 

I did the following over the last few nights:
1. Removed the tape residue from the inner bezel and then spray painted it with flat black paint
2. Painted the two wood screws for the control panel black
3. Assembled the control panel

I was missing the brackets that the hook onto the latches that hold the control panel in place.  I picked up a set from the guy I got the bezel from

The painted carriage bolts turned out nice

4. Worked on the coin door...
Coin mechs were rusted and the chrome was gone

After cleaning up the rust with a dremel, I used some Brialliant Metal paint to make these shine again

I think it turned out pretty good


Next up was to reasemble the coin door.  I didn't have a coin counter so I pulled one from another Midway coin door I had laying around.  When I did my Gorf restore, I picked up a few Midway 25 cent inserts from This Old Game.  As I was pulling these from the parts bin, I ran across this:

Then I remembered this statement from my very first post in this thread

Purchased miscelaneous items from Bob Roberts - new power cord, WG K4600 cap kit (hopefully fixes my monitor issue), new carriage bolts

I forgot that I order carriage bolts for the control panel.  Okay, take joystick apart, take control panel bolts off, remove wood piece, insert carriage bolts....   They don't fit!  Too small.  I ordered Pac-man carriage bolts, but these are obviously for a metal control panel and not for one with the wood underneath.  Wasted time.  I should have realized it before I started swaping them but I didn't.  Put it all back together.  (I like the way the black looks anyway)

Okay, back to the coin door.

Matching the new inserts up with the old ones, they don't match

I'd like to keep the original look, so I cleaned up the old ones with some liquid detergent and warm water.  They cleaned up nicely and I'll be able to save them.

Okay, all parts put back in place and a new lock installed


The Midway logo plate is just laying in place.  I saved the rivets that I drilled out and I will glue them in place.  I need to figure out the best way to adhere the plate to the door first (I have to go back and read Level42's Galaxian restore to see how he did it)


As a reminder, here is what I started with:


5. Painted the Marquee bolts black
6. Painted the speaker carriage bolts black
7. Cleaned and painted (silver) the four vent screens for the back of the cab

I'm working on getting a stencil made for the Midway copyright info for the cab.  Once I get that I can add it and then clear coat.  Then I get to put everything back together!

[SirPeale]

If you can wait I anticipate having the CORRECT rivets for the logo plate.

[Moo2wo]

The coin door looks incredible!

[opt2not]

That coin door & mech cleaned up really well. Looking good!  Glad you stuck with the original 25 Cents inserts, it's so retro.
This is going to be a beauty when it's done, keep up the good work! 

[Spyridon]

If you can wait I anticipate having the CORRECT rivets for the logo plate.

Any idea on how long?  I know you were getting close.  I'd love to go with real rivets.  I'll take a couple sets as soon as you get them!

[SirPeale]

I wish I had a figure.  I'd say no more than a month, if I can get the company I'm working with to cooperate with me.

[RayB]

I hope you complain to the stencil guy. It's great people take the time to make these things for this hobby, but for pete's sake, do it right!

[Spyridon]

I hope you complain to the stencil guy. It's great people take the time to make these things for this hobby, but for pete's sake, do it right!

Can't complain about the stencils, they are beautiful.

[Spyridon]

Couldn't wait any longer for the Midway copyright stencils.  The weather is changing too fast (snow flurries already have been spotted).  I want to get this done before it's too cold to paint.

I added a coat of clear to the cab.


The good news is it now has a really nice protective coating on it.  The bad news is the clear went on with a bit of orange peel texture.  I'm hoping that I can buff that out.

[WunderCade]

Can't wait to see it all together.

Did you let the stencil vendor know about the missing copyrights, the mouth issue, and the improper order of the color stencils for the front?

[Spyridon]

Did you let the stencil vendor know about the missing copyrights, the mouth issue, and the improper order of the color stencils for the front?

Yes, he is making changes to the front stencils, but not sure about the copyright info.

[orion]

Was there an issue with the copyright AI file I sent you?

[Spyridon]

Was there an issue with the copyright AI file I sent you?

No, it was perfect.  I just wasn't able to find someone to print it.  Had two groups that would do it, but it wasn't high on their list so they wouldn't get to it for a while.

[orion]

I understand. I guess I had an advantage with my local printers as my sister in law used to work there and I have been friends with the owner for a long time. I guess that walking in and handing them a file, and watching them print it right then and there is a privilege and not how these places normally do business. I really had no idea. Sorry you couldn't get it made up in time, but it looks great as is!

[Spyridon]

I was really disappointed with the orange peel texture that I got on the clear coat, especially when I'd pull the car into the drive way with the headlights shining on the cab.  I went to work to fix it up.  I started with some 600 grit sandpaper, followed by some fine steel wool, followed by Novus #3, followed by Novus #2, and finally some Novus #1 just to clean it off. 

Took a while but the it looks really good now.  The texture is nice and smooth and the cab is still well protected.  I only did one side so far.  Tomorrow I'll try to get the other side and the front done.  The the cab gets moved to the basement for reassembly!

[Spyridon]

Okay, second side and the front is done.  Turned out really nice!

Back plate made it through multiple rounds of paint


I also put on the new orange t-molding.  Had to lay it down in order to hammer in the t-molding on the bottom


While I had her on her back, I replaced the old leg levelers with new nylon ones

Another nice feature of these nylon legs, is that they are longer than the originals.  This allows me to raise the cab about a half inch (I'm 6'5" so the higher the better) more off the ground.

And the finished exterior, ready to be moved to the basement for reassembly:




I'm very pleased with the way this one is turning out   

[Superully]

"very pleases" is an understatement!!! this is one heck of a job - congratulations.

[Level42]

I feel a RESTOREY coming up  

[RetroACTIVE]

Yeah... you really do some fantastic work!  I'm impressed with your paint jobs... they are top notch! 

[orion]

Yeah... you really do some fantastic work!  I'm impressed with your paint jobs... they are top notch! 

They are. I seem to remember Spydron getting advice from Wondercade on painting techniques... they were obviously good pointers. I wonder if it would be possible for a mod to dig those up and sticky them somewhere.

[Spyridon]

I seem to remember Spyridon getting advice from Wondercade on painting techniques... they were obviously good pointers.

Gorf was my first paint job using a sprayer and Wundercade gave some great tips that I've been using ever since.  That's the nice thing about posting these on these boards.  I've gotten tons of good advice from lots of helpful people.  Couldn't have done these without help.

[Spyridon]

While watching the Phillies playoff game tonight, I installed the screen in the back of the cab.



Also, installed the coin door:

[Spyridon]

Installed all the guts today.

Speaker and lights:

Everything else:


I used double sided foam tape to secure the new piece of tinted plexi to the inner bezel

Once attached, I removed the remaining protective layer


(almost) Everything in its place:


Time to power him up and see what happens:


It still works!  Monitor picture is beautiful


Remaining items to do:
Check coin mech wireing as they aren't working
Replace marquee with NOS one.
Anyone have some recommendations on what to use to remove the protective covering without damaging the plastic?

Install Six-pac kit to allow me to play Pac, Ms. Pac, and Pac Plus in fast and slow versions
Install Midway logo plate on coin door (any news Peale?)
Take final pictures!
Rearrange games in gameroom

Almost there...

[SirPeale]

I haven't called the company back yet on the rivets.  They weren't too forthcoming on the samples they /did/ send me, and since they were the wrong ones (thanks to some bad data) I'm allowing some time to pass before I ask for some others.

[Namco]

I haven't checked on this thread in months. Just read it front to back, amazing work!

One request however, replace those yellow (2700K) Compact Florescent lightbulbs with those of the daylight variety. They usually cost a couple bucks more but produce great white light and really bring out the colors.



Seen here is regular "soft white" on the left and the superior "daylight" on the right:

[Level42]

My guess is Spyri is trying to reproduce the warm light of the original incadescent bulbs as much as possible...

[Spyridon]

My guess is Spyri is trying to reproduce the warm light of the original incadescent bulbs as much as possible...

Yeah, Yeah...that's it.

Actually, those are the bulbs that were in there and I didn't change anything.  I did think that it looked a bit too yellow but I haven't given it much thought yet on what I'll end up with.  I may consider those white light bulbs if the yellow bugs me.

[opt2not]

My guess is Spyri is trying to reproduce the warm light of the original incadescent bulbs as much as possible...

Yeah, Yeah...that's it.

Actually, those are the bulbs that were in there and I didn't change anything.  I did think that it looked a bit too yellow but I haven't given it much thought yet on what I'll end up with.  I may consider those white light bulbs if the yellow bugs me.

I say keep the yellow, it feels warmer and goes well with the yellow colour of the cabinet. Besides, like Level said, it's original!
Just my opinion though.  Your cabinet is still wicked awesome regardless!

[WunderCade]

I am conflicted over this too. Mine has the original incandescent bulbs and it is rather yellow compared to my other cabs.  I've been considering switching over to the daylight (white) ones just so the cab's lighting matches the others.

[Level42]

Well Midway shouldn't have switched to incandescent in the first place. Galaxian production started with decent fluorescent fixtures but switched to the incandescent set-up later in production, probably to save a buck or two. They're responsible for quite some waste of energy and CO2 production because of that, seeing Pac Man's production numbers. Besides that I can't think op's were happy with it, higher electricity bill but probably much more important for them in those days, exchanging blown-up bulbs pretty regularly compared to fluorescent. Also the fluorescent tube gave a much better spread and even light. However, if you strive for originality, I'd opt for the yellow looking lights for the Pac too. With all it's drawbacks in looks, it is how it was.And by using those fluorescent versions the energy issue is solved.

I do find those SF pictures before and after interesting though. At first sight I prefered the left (yellow) one because of it's warmer tone. But after some looking, the one with the daylight produces much brighter colors, the difference in colors is much more noticable.
Very interesting, since I tend to buy warm (yellow) colored fluorescents if they don't work anymore in the cabs I work on. It might be better to try a white one next time, they are also considerably cheaper.

[Namco]

Well Midway shouldn't have switched to incandescent in the first place. Galaxian production started with decent fluorescent fixtures but switched to the incandescent set-up later in production, probably to save a buck or two. They're responsible for quite some waste of energy and CO2 production because of that, seeing Pac Man's production numbers. Besides that I can't think op's were happy with it, higher electricity bill but probably much more important for them in those days, exchanging blown-up bulbs pretty regularly compared to fluorescent. Also the fluorescent tube gave a much better spread and even light. However, if you strive for originality, I'd opt for the yellow looking lights for the Pac too. With all it's drawbacks in looks, it is how it was.And by using those fluorescent versions the energy issue is solved.

I do find those SF pictures before and after interesting though. At first sight I prefered the left (yellow) one because of it's warmer tone. But after some looking, the one with the daylight produces much brighter colors, the difference in colors is much more noticable.
Very interesting, since I tend to buy warm (yellow) colored fluorescents if they don't work anymore in the cabs I work on. It might be better to try a white one next time, they are also considerably cheaper.

Well, they've always made daylight versions of incandescent bulbs too. They had a kind of bluish-white coating on them as well as a higher color temperature. There was nothing stopping an op from using a couple of those. I remember experimenting with those "cool" light bulbs as a kid in the mid-80s. I'm not sure exactly when they were invented but daylight colored light is not exclusive to CF bulbs.

[SirPeale]

An op is going to go with whatever the cheapest option is. 

Sometimes those decisions make sense in the short run, but not in the long.   Like the lighting.   Maybe there was a sale on 60W bulbs that day.  So those get used instead.  They're not concerned with power usage - the location pays that!  But this backfires as the marquee area heats up, bleaching the marquee at best, melting it and burning the cab at worst.

That's why the florescent fixtures became an industry standard.  They run cooler, use less energy, light a broader area, and last a heck of a long time.   When I was working for an op, any time we found a cab using incandescent fixtures they were ripped out with great prejudice and replaced with a florescent fixture.

[Spyridon]

Installed the Mark Spaeth Six Pac today


First step was to remove chips 5E, 5F, 6E, 6F, 6H, and 6J


Then install the new PCB on the edge connecter and the chip in socket 5E


and play...


This really is a nice kit.  The only thing that would make it better would be a high score save.  I realized that I had never played Pac-Man Plus before. What an odd game.

[DjinniMan]

I'm in awe.  This restoration is amazing.  Absolutely gorgeous.

[Level42]

No offense, I love Mark Spaeth's stuff but I hate that e-mail address there.

I'm very glad he didn't do that on the SW/ESB kit.

[Spyridon]

No offense, I love Mark Spaeth's stuff but I hate that e-mail address there.

I'm very glad he didn't do that on the SW/ESB kit.

I agree  (I also have his SW/ESB kit on the way to me)

[WunderCade]

Mark said that a simple little tweek with a programmer could get rid of it, although he made sure to point out that'd be "tacky" in the same breath. lol

But if I had a programmer, I'd definitely get rid of it can't imagine it'd be any more tacky than having it on there.

[Level42]

Sure, all it takes is reading the eprom, finding the string, removing it, erasing and reprogramming the Eprom.

Unless he build in some clever protection, which I doubt.

It's just that an e-mail address is so NOT-80's.... it also seems not the smartest thing to do with Namco chasing it's IP.

[MaximRecoil]

It's just that an e-mail address is so NOT-80's....

I disagree. Lots of people in the '80s had email addresses, especially people like Mark Spaeth (an MIT student). If an MIT student in the '80s made a multi Pac-Man board for sale to fellow hobbyists, I can see him including his email address on the screen. It would have been a very "techie" thing to do back then.

In fact, MIT figured prominently in the origin of email, some two decades prior to the '80s:

Electronic mail predates the inception of the Internet, and was in fact a crucial tool in creating the Internet.

MIT first demonstrated the Compatible Time-Sharing System (CTSS) in 1961. It allowed multiple users to log into the IBM 7094 from remote dial-up terminals, and to store files online on disk. This new ability encouraged users to share information in new ways. E-mail started in 1965 as a way for multiple users of a time-sharing mainframe computer to communicate. Although the exact history is murky, among the first systems to have such a facility were SDC's Q32 and MIT's CTSS.

[Namco]

It's just that an e-mail address is so NOT-80's....

I disagree. Lots of people in the '80s had email addresses, especially people like Mark Spaeth (an MIT student). If an MIT student in the '80s made a multi Pac-Man board for sale to fellow hobbyists, I can see him including his email address on the screen. It would have been a very "techie" thing to do back then.

In fact, MIT figured prominently in the origin of email, some two decades prior to the '80s:

Electronic mail predates the inception of the Internet, and was in fact a crucial tool in creating the Internet.

MIT first demonstrated the Compatible Time-Sharing System (CTSS) in 1961. It allowed multiple users to log into the IBM 7094 from remote dial-up terminals, and to store files online on disk. This new ability encouraged users to share information in new ways. E-mail started in 1965 as a way for multiple users of a time-sharing mainframe computer to communicate. Although the exact history is murky, among the first systems to have such a facility were SDC's Q32 and MIT's CTSS.

Yeah, but it's a Gmail email address. Gmail is so modern and "Web 2.0". Not a very cool thing IMHO to have on your vintage looking arcade cab. It would have been fine if it was some obscure edu or something, but Gmail?, it ruins it.

[opt2not]

Yeah, but it's a Gmail email address. Gmail is so modern and "Web 2.0". Not a very cool thing IMHO to have on your vintage looking arcade cab. It wouldn't been fine if it was some obscure edu or something, but Gmail?, it ruins it.

+1 

[MaximRecoil]

Yeah, but it's a Gmail email address. Gmail is so modern and "Web 2.0". Not a very cool thing IMHO to have on your vintage looking arcade cab. It would have been fine if it was some obscure edu or something, but Gmail?, it ruins it.

I didn't actually look at what email address he was using. Yeah, using a gmail address sucks. An mit.edu address would have been good. In fact, it seems that he does indeed have at least several addresses like that, including a nice, basic address (link).

So with regard to the following post:

Mark said that a simple little tweek with a programmer could get rid of it, although he made sure to point out that'd be "tacky" in the same breath. lol

Maybe the ideal solution would be to change it to his mit.edu address, rather than deleting it altogether.

[RayB]

How about NO email. It's so unnecessary.

[MaximRecoil]

How about NO email. It's so unnecessary.

The "Six-Pac" kit itself is "so unnecessary". I agree with the creator of that kit that it would be "tacky" to simply remove his email address from the screen. If someone wants one without it, nothing is preventing someone from designing and manufacturing their own kit.

[rotheblog]

The Ms. Pac-man multi has www.widel.com on the bottom of the screen too.  I would guess most of his kits do, as the BT DECO multi has it also.  So its not necessarily out of the ordinary.

[javeryh]

Not sure how I missed this one but I just read the entire thread - amazing job.  It is a thing of beauty!   

[Spyridon]

Not sure how I missed this one but I just read the entire thread - amazing job.  It is a thing of beauty!   

Thanks

[Kawydud]

What a great detailed restoration to a cabinet.  I am new to this forum and this was one of the first threads that I have read.  Very nice work, and nice help from other members involved.  I recently bought an original Ms. Pac cabinet and will be going through the same process of restoring the cabinet to the same high standards that you went through.  I did find files to do the stencils on the Ms.Pac, and I have a vinyl graphic business as well, so the stencils will be easy to create.  Thanks again for the detailed pictures of your resto.

[ckong]

Very nice restoration project. The end result really is amazing. I got a pac-man cab last week which I will restore next summer or so, and this topic is full of useful information for that.

[nvanvlymen]

This thread is long dead, but I'm hoping to know what quantity was used for each color? I tried looking at the pic of all the paint, and it looks like 2 quarts for yellow, and the rest were pints?  I'm with the shop who's mixing my omni paint and they struggled to use the formula with a specific quantity.  Any help would be super appreciative.

[Namco]

I cringe everytime I read an old forum post of mine. I was being all snarky about gmail address on a multi-pac board? Geez. Mark's earned the right, I think. 

[Howard_Casto]

This thread is long dead, but I'm hoping to know what quantity was used for each color? I tried looking at the pic of all the paint, and it looks like 2 quarts for yellow, and the rest were pints?  I'm with the shop who's mixing my omni paint and they struggled to use the formula with a specific quantity.  Any help would be super appreciative.

When I did my replica I think it used about half a gallon.  I'd go ahead and get a whole gallon though.... it's a huge pain to run out mid job.