Author Topic: Centipede Restoration (Read 64373 times)

SirPeale · « **Reply #160 on:** August 21, 2009, 09:12:27 am »

Quote from: Level42 on August 21, 2009, 02:55:27 am

Personally I would never hose down a monitor. WAY too risky ! You never know where that water stays....

Not risky at all once it's dried. I pop mine into an oven at the lowest setting (~200 F) for an hour.

Spyridon · « **Reply #161 on:** August 21, 2009, 12:25:39 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on August 21, 2009, 09:12:27 am

I pop mine into an oven at the lowest setting (~200 F) for an hour.

I left mine in the hot sun all day. Dried it out nicely.

Level42 · « **Reply #162 on:** August 21, 2009, 05:22:19 pm »

There's too many water absorbing parts in there for my taste. Pots, trimmers,coils, yoke, you name it. Great if it works for you, I just keep to using the best of a vacuum cleaning and some paper towel and cleaning agent at the spots I think it's safe and I can reach.

WunderCade · « **Reply #163 on:** August 21, 2009, 06:12:37 pm »

How do you guys keep water out of the anode hole in the tube? I've never inspected that hole closely so I don't know how deep it is or if it is sealed off on the inside.

Spyridon · « **Reply #164 on:** August 22, 2009, 09:00:59 am »

Quote from: WunderCade on August 21, 2009, 06:12:37 pm

How do you guys keep water out of the anode hole in the tube? I've never inspected that hole closely so I don't know how deep it is or if it is sealed off on the inside.

That was a concern of mine, and I kept the anode cup in place, however, I did see a post recently over at KLOV on this and they hosed it down completely including inside the anode hole. It is sealed off so water won't get inside.

Spyridon · « **Reply #165 on:** August 25, 2009, 08:10:18 pm »

Getting ready to start the side art application. Since I had the cab on its side, now was a good time to replace the legs with nylon legs

Was able to replace three of them, but the t-nut on the fourth is shot. I'll need to replace it. I need to pick up one for my Gauntlet anyway.

Wade · « **Reply #166 on:** August 26, 2009, 11:05:11 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on August 21, 2009, 02:55:27 am

As the owner of an Irish Centi (and having seen both other Irish and US Centi's) I'm telling you there is a difference. There were also differences in the marquee and side-art, why would something "simple" as a blue color shade not be different ?

In fact, the "brighter" blue on the Irish CPO matches the blue on the Irish bezel. Like the US CPO blue matches the US bezel.

Personally I would never hose down a monitor. WAY too risky ! You never know where that water stays....

Level42, what you've seen doesn't mean much for someone in the US. I've seen TWO types of US Centipede sideart, marquees, and I believe I've seen two different shades of blue in the bezels and control panels. The bezels and CP's might just be a matter of the cameras used (both Centipedes I've had have a bright blue bezel that looks just like yours only missing the reds). I'm not sure if the CP's came in different shades in the US or not but I'd prefer for the overlay to match the bezel if possible.

So it's possible the US Centipedes you've seen had the darker blues. That would mean that it's possible that your Irish blue is the same as the "other" US Centipedes. Know what I mean?

As far as monitors, I've hosed at least a dozen, never had a problem. Not too risky if you allow them to dry. I've also dishwashed at least 100 PCB's and only had one failure, which was on a boardset that fails frequently (washing or not).

Wade

Spyridon · « **Reply #167 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:55:17 pm »

Picked up some t-nuts today to replace the bad one. It's good to know people in the nuts and bolts industry. My cost $0.04 each.

\

Really easy to install. Just hammer into place

and insert leg

Since I purchased these nylon casters for all my games, if I find any nuts that give me any kind of problem, I'll just replace it with these low cost new ones. Makes adjusting the height really easy as the legs turn fluidly.

SirPeale · « **Reply #168 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:59:14 pm »

You're going to want to shore that t nut up a bit. Because the wood there is already a bit chewed likely it won't bite as well as a fresh installation. A couple of 1" screws will secure it nicely.

Spyridon · « **Reply #169 on:** September 03, 2009, 11:30:19 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on September 02, 2009, 09:59:14 pm

You're going to want to shore that t nut up a bit. Because the wood there is already a bit chewed likely it won't bite as well as a fresh installation. A couple of 1" screws will secure it nicely.

It's in there pretty solid, but since I've got it on its side, I may as well add the screws as you suggested.

Level42 · « **Reply #170 on:** September 03, 2009, 03:15:18 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on September 02, 2009, 08:55:17 pm

Picked up some t-nuts today to replace the bad one. It's good to know people in the nuts and bolts industry. My cost $0.04 each.

You should ask if the guy you know in nuts and bolts can supply the nylon casters

Spyridon · « **Reply #171 on:** September 03, 2009, 03:43:22 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on September 03, 2009, 03:15:18 pm

Quote from: Spyridon on September 02, 2009, 08:55:17 pm
Picked up some t-nuts today to replace the bad one. It's good to know people in the nuts and bolts industry. My cost $0.04 each.
You should ask if the guy you know in nuts and bolts can supply the nylon casters

Yeah, I thought of that too late. Already got my shipment in.

Spyridon · « **Reply #172 on:** October 04, 2009, 07:36:06 pm »

Still haven't had a chance to install the side art, but I did start to reassemble the internals

Here is what it looked like when I got it:

And now...

hatrick · « **Reply #173 on:** October 05, 2009, 05:04:38 pm »

You do very nice work. Your attention to detail is incredible. I thoroughly enjoy reading all of your resto threads.

Spyridon · « **Reply #174 on:** October 15, 2009, 11:01:42 pm »

Installed the coin door wire harness onto the coin door. Nothing was labled on the connections so I had to go pull out the pin out to determine what goes where (the loose wires are for the lock out coils which weren't present on this coin door)

While I was in there, I replaced the two coin door bulbs with new ones.

Then installed the marquee, coin door and control panel onto the cab.

I picked up a NOS back door sheet a while ago, but I never unpacked it until today. Looks really nice. Nice bright white and in great shape.

Installed on the back door:

I also assembled the Arcadeshop reproduction bezel. It came shipped in two pieces

It connects together by an ahesive on two of the tabs. Just pull off the paper and stick it together

First side done

Second side done:

Just setting it in place to see what it looks like. Need to figure out which end is the top? I won't staple it in place until the monitor is back in.

Can anyone tell me if Centipede used smooth or textured t-molding?

Superully · « **Reply #175 on:** October 16, 2009, 09:32:38 am »

the t-molding on mine is smooth!

hatrick · « **Reply #176 on:** October 16, 2009, 12:55:11 pm »

Quote from: Superully on October 16, 2009, 09:32:38 am

the t-molding on mine is smooth!

Mine has smooth t-molding as well.

Spyridon · « **Reply #177 on:** October 16, 2009, 01:00:09 pm »

Okay, smooth it is.

Level42 · « **Reply #178 on:** October 16, 2009, 05:43:32 pm »

Yes very smooth

SirPeale · « **Reply #179 on:** October 16, 2009, 09:58:56 pm »

Interesting...it's textured on my mini.

Wade · « **Reply #180 on:** October 16, 2009, 10:57:52 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on October 16, 2009, 09:58:56 pm

Interesting...it's textured on my mini.

Not interesting. Completely different cabinet.

My regular upright is smooth as well.

Wade

StuDaBaker · « **Reply #181 on:** October 19, 2009, 02:30:08 pm »

I picked up an original Centipede upright about a year ago, mine has smooth T-molding as well. The previous owner did replace the CP overlay and it looks nice, but did a kind of shotty job with the left side art decal and there's no right side art at all. Overall, the cabinet is in pretty good shape, and reading this thread has got me really wanting to go through with a full restoration. When I get it going I'm sure I'll need some advice and will start a new thread, and although you're in the home stretch on wrapping this up, if you need any pics for a cross reference or something, I'll do what I can to help.

Spyridon · « **Reply #182 on:** October 27, 2009, 09:15:48 pm »

I'm having people over this weekend on Halloween and we will most likely end up in the arcade at some point so I wanted to get Centipede playable. I've got some extra new Vision Pro's sitting around so I decided to throw one in the cab. I'm still going to do the cap kit on the G07 monitor, but I probably won't put it back into this game until I need a monitor for a different game. The G07 has some screen burn but isn't too bad when the game is on. It's still good and will get used again.

Monitor installed and blue bezel put into place:

Glass bezel installed:

And the current state of the game:

Remaining items to do:
Install side art
Install new t-molding

The picture on the monitor is beautiful, except when I turn the cab 90 degrees and slide it into the row. Major degaussing problem as the upper left corner turns blue instead of red/green. Monitor does not have a degauss button. Any suggestions on how to clear this up? If I rotate the game, picture is fine.

2600 · « **Reply #183 on:** October 28, 2009, 09:22:24 am »

Looks good.

You need a manual degausser to solve your degauss problem.

Level42 · « **Reply #184 on:** October 28, 2009, 06:10:48 pm »

Maybe, maybe not. I've experienced that it will go away after some time (turning on off every now and then). Providing the automatic degauss works OK.

2600 · « **Reply #185 on:** October 28, 2009, 07:52:22 pm »

True you don't need a degaussing coil. You can try turning it on and off a few times, get a corded drill and see if that will deguass it, or put lots of magnets around it so that it's blue everywhere.

Personally, a degaussing coil didn't seem like a bad investment and I spent the $20 for one.

SirPeale · « **Reply #186 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:05:05 pm »

I made mine. One from an old TV, looped to a figure eight shape then doubled onto itself. I still need to wire it to a switch, but it works perfectly.

Mauzy · « **Reply #187 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:47:22 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on October 28, 2009, 10:05:05 pm

I made mine. One from an old TV, looped to a figure eight shape then doubled onto itself. I still need to wire it to a switch, but it works perfectly.

+1. Works great, I use one on a surge protector as a switch on a regular basis.

(I think I've plus one-d this idea every time I've seen it...

)

Wade · « **Reply #188 on:** November 03, 2009, 07:22:49 pm »

Your monitor will try to degauss when it starts up cold. Usually after a few attempts many monitors will clear up on their own. I'd just wait it out.

Wade

ckong · « **Reply #189 on:** December 10, 2009, 02:05:26 pm »

Any progress on the sideart?

ChadTower · « **Reply #190 on:** December 11, 2009, 09:32:34 am »

Heh, yeah, I love this project. Wish I could get myself to work on one project at a time like this.

Spyridon · « **Reply #191 on:** December 12, 2009, 08:58:44 pm »

Quote from: ckong on December 10, 2009, 02:05:26 pm

Any progress on the sideart?

Not yet. I just haven't had the time, but it should be coming soon.

Spyridon · « **Reply #192 on:** December 12, 2009, 08:59:33 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on December 11, 2009, 09:32:34 am

Wish I could get myself to work on one project at a time like this.

Well, it was actually two projects as I was working on Pac-man at the same time.

Spyridon · « **Reply #193 on:** December 28, 2009, 07:12:13 pm »

Okay, got the side art put on yesterday.

Taped the full sheet in place and then peeled back half of it.

Cut off the backing and then using a squeegee pressed it into place a few inches at a time. Then repeat for the other half

Here is the full sheet in place

Next I removed the premask and trimmed the vinly to size using a new blade in an exacto knife.

And that's when I found a problem. There was a hole in the vinly about the size of a quarter. The premask was not cut so this happened before the final product was shipped.

I'm going to contact the place this was purchased at and see what they can do for me.

Other than that issue, it looks great.

Right side

Left side

Just need to get the t-molding on to finish it up

Spyridon · « **Reply #194 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:20:04 am »

I contacted the manufacturer of the side art, and he agreed to split a set and sell me just the right side. He has a 7 day return policy, so I'm way beyond that. It will cost me another $50 if I want to replace that side. I need to think on that one before I purchase.

Spyridon · « **Reply #195 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:28:56 am »

t-molding has been installed. It is officially done (pending a decision on replacing the right side art

)

Remember these two Arkaoinds...

Well, here are the same two Arkanoids...

And finally, put back into place with the rest of the cabs (may get moved to an end spot when I rearrange to show off the artwork)

SirPeale · « **Reply #196 on:** December 31, 2009, 11:29:59 am »

I personally say "let it go" and use that $50 on your next project. It could be much, much worse!

Wade · « **Reply #197 on:** January 01, 2010, 11:18:33 am »

Quote from: Spyridon on December 31, 2009, 10:20:04 am

I contacted the manufacturer of the side art, and he agreed to split a set and sell me just the right side. He has a 7 day return policy, so I'm way beyond that. It will cost me another $50 if I want to replace that side. I need to think on that one before I purchase.

That blows. I bought 2nd hand a 720 cpo that turned out to be defective, and phoenix/darin gave me a very good deal on a replacement! This helps with repeat customers.

Wade

Level42 · « **Reply #198 on:** January 01, 2010, 06:39:58 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on December 31, 2009, 10:20:04 am

I contacted the manufacturer of the side art, and he agreed to split a set and sell me just the right side. He has a 7 day return policy, so I'm way beyond that. It will cost me another $50 if I want to replace that side. I need to think on that one before I purchase.

That's what I love about living in Europe. A seller would never get away with that bull ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. He delivered you a faulty product and the law says two years warranty here. This has nothing to do with a return policy. We have that here too, but that just says something about if you simply change your mind on ordering stuff through mail or internet. The product can still be 100% OK, and you are still allowed to return it to the seller and they have to give back your money (minus some s&h costs). In this case though, you discovered a product fault that was hidden for you because of the protective layer. Not your fault but the producers fault.

Even without laws, there is also something about customer satisfaction. Was that the only option the seller gave you ? I think he should simply replace the bad part which HE screwed up ! Where did you buy it ?

I wouldn't settle for this personally, just MHO. Your cabs look way too perfect to let this one go !

Amazing job, once again !!!

Wade · « **Reply #199 on:** January 01, 2010, 11:49:38 pm »

Oh yeah, I just wanted to say that it's a tiny flaw, and honestly I would live with it rather than strip and re-do the side. Regardless of whether he gave you a free replacement side. Your restorations are suuuweeeeet, but even after a perfect restoration you'll get a flaw or two here or there. They'll make you pull your hair out, but in the end no one will notice them. I've learned to live with it because EVERY restoration I do... I put a big booger on it, usually when I'm moving it into the gameroom!!

Wade


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