Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

Centipede Restoration

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Spyridon:
I picked up a Centipede cabinet that has been converted to Arkanoid on eBay.  It was local and I paid $63 for it.  Pretty good deal considerding the Arkanoid game works fine.  The plan is to convert this back to Centipede.  I'll be focusing on getting the game working during the winter and save the cabinet restoration for Spring when it's warm enough to paint in the garage.


Sides have been completely painted over with black paint.  I'll try and strip it off and see what remains of the Centipede artwork, but I've already picked up a new set so I won't worry too much if it can't be saved.  Also, no back door so I'll have to cut a new one.


A real hack job of the original wiring to get the Arkanoid game going.  Don't think I'll be able to save any of the original wiring.


Working Electrohome G07 monitor.  Needs a cap kit.  I'll order the deluxe kit from Bob Roberts and give it the works since I'll have it pulled out anyway.


So far I've acquired the following items (from KLOV, QuarterArcade and eBay):
Centipede wire harness complete with control panel harness for $12.50 on eBay

Working PCB from eBay for $58 which included a working ARII board and a trackball (great deal)

Working Transformer from eBay for $17 (mine works, but I was getting other items from this seller and added it in just in case)
NOS cone buttons (2)
Control Panel Overlay from Quarter Arcade for $40
Phoneix arcade side art for $75 shipped from a KLOV member

Currently working on a deal for a marquee from a KLOV member as well.

Still need to find the glass bezel.  I've heard that Arcadeshop is having issues with their repros and are out of stock.  Anyone have a bezel for sale?

I'll pick up the blue cardboard bezel from Arcadeshop.

Trackball will need to be rebuilt.  I'll order new bearings and rollers from Bob Roberts.  Were these originally offwhite in color or is mine just discolored?


Spyridon:
The control panel has been hacked with the addition of a new button above the trackball area and holes for the spinner.


The cone button have also been replaced with a different style button.  Where the holes for the cones the same size as a regular button?  These are the standard button size.  I can easily fix the extra button and spinner holes, but if these were a smaller size that could be a difficult fix.  I may be better off trying to find a replacement Centipede control panel and sell this one.  I've had some interest in it already as an Arkanoid CP.

Anyone know how to remove the P1 and P2 buttons?  I've removed the microswitch, but the end piece is still wider then the button shaft which means I can't slide the nut off.

I'm sure the microswitch holder at the end must pop off somehow, but it's not obvious as of yet.  I don't want to break it in case I end up switching to a different control panel.

Another question, I think the only wiring part I'm missing is the coin door connection.  Is this the connector that goes to the coin door?


I haven't seen that type of connector before.  Anyone have a Centipede coin door harness for sale?

Level42:
P1 and P2 buttonholes should be smaller.

(You can see it on the CPO:
)


Mine were made bigger too (but not as big as a "regular" pushbutton hole) and actually, the P1 and P2 button on my CP looked very similar (if not the same) !



You can simply pull out the inside mechanics of the button. Needs a little force but then will click out. Won't do any damage.


I carefully installed the cone buttons that I found and they "just" fit the holes. I'm not sure if I will keep it this way, may fix it with some bondo or something.







Spyridon:
Thanks for the info Level42.  I'm actually in the process of re-reading your Centipede restoration right now. 

It looks like my buttons are similar to yours, but the holes have been widened to the size of a regular push button.  I don't think the cone will fit.  I'm leaning towards picking up a different control panel and selling this one. 

ChadTower:

That looks like it might be an amp connector... I see no reason one with that many slots would be original.  Just get a new matching pair and repin to that pair.  It's much easier than trying to find a match for an unknown connector from some point in the past 25 years.

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