Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Star Wars - Should I do It?
FrizzleFried:
--- Quote from: shardian on December 12, 2008, 09:24:06 am ---
--- Quote from: ChadTower on December 12, 2008, 08:56:45 am ---
Can you really solder the anode wire? I'd be nervous about that, worried that it might be too HV a junction for solder.
--- End quote ---
Dude, if your anode cap is getting hot enough to melt solder then you have bigger problems. You know, like plastic insulation melting and the rubber cap melting...and your house burning down.
--- End quote ---
Worry not Chad...how do you think the anode clip is attached to the anode wire? That's right...solder. I surely didn't cut the wire in half and solder it midway and black tape it up. I clipped off about 1/4" of the end of the wire, exposed about 1/8" of the wire...desoldered the remaining wire/solder from the clip...inserted the wire in to the anode clip through the hole that's there to hold it...re-soldered...good as gold.
Worry not Shardian... I broke the clip off from removing and installing the damn thing back and forth between tubes about 4 times. Force broke the wire/solder...not heat.
I've fixed the wire...but it seems my 25" tube is shot. I am going to try to rejuv it, but frankly, it's looking pretty good I will have to go with the 19" amplifone tube. Here is a shot taken AFTER I repaired the anode wire (again, chad, how did you think the clip was attached to the anode wire if not soldered?)...both monitors...I think the problem with the 25" is apparent. >grin<
EDIT: And yes...believe it or not, the shot of the 25" tube is with the screen pot turned ALL THE WAY DOWN! Obviously Houston, we have a problem.
ChadTower:
I figured it would be crimped on, actually. A crimp is a better physical connection.
FrizzleFried:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on December 12, 2008, 10:06:02 am ---
I figured it would be crimped on, actually. A crimp is a better physical connection.
--- End quote ---
It's both...sort of. There is a small eyelet then you solder the wire through the eyelet.
Not actually crimped though...at least not this clip. When I broke it off I just about ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, but the folks over at KLOV were like "just solder it back on dummy!"
shardian:
No need to worry - I never suspected heat was the problem.
I also thought it would have been crimped though.
What I don't get though is why you are swapping a 19" and 25" tube? Are they really compatible outright with the same chassis? I thought you had to do some fancy readjusting to pull that off?
Forgive me if this is explained somewhere else in the thread.
ChadTower:
I did some research into this a couple of years ago as I wanted to try a 27" or even a 32" tube for a vector monitor. What the vectorlist guys told me was that if you found a tube with the same deflection angle you could do it with a chassis that could handle the power requirements. Problems were that the vector monitors used a slightly different deflection angle from most televisions so it would be hard to find one that way, and it might require a little custom wiring on the neckboard connector as they likely won't be pin compatible. I seem to remember them saying there was probably only 1-2 chassis that would make good candidates for a larger tube but don't remember which one it was at this point. And that you'd probably shorten the life of an already hard to get flyback.
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