Star Wars - Should I do It?

[FrizzleFried]

I have the possibly opportunity to acquire a Star Wars cockpit,  gutted,  but in decent condition,  for $50...

...and I have a Star Wars upright,  in very good condition.

I'm considering trying for it...then moving all my stuff from the upright to the cockpit.

Here are some of the negs as I see them.

(A) Space!  A cockpit is going to take up 3x as much room as the upright.
(B) Monitor - my 19" WG6100 isn't going to look all that great sitting in a cockpit that usually used a 25" Amplifone.
(C) Art - My understanding is that the cockpits control panel will need new art...at least.

SO...what to do.  I have so little space and my upright is in very decent condition...I am actually leaning toward blowing this opportunity off.

[ChadTower]

The cockpits didn't usually use a 25"... only some of them did.  Most of the cockpits I've seen in person had 19".

I would do it in a heartbeat.  Then again, I have a complete Star Wars project with a badly water damaged cab, and the Star Wars cockpit is my vid holy grail. 

Do it.

[jow]

Of course you should:

[m_mcgover]

That is exactly what I am doing.  A transplant.  I've also been picking up a second set of everything so I can either sell the upright.

The missing art on the CPO is not a big deal, especially since Scott has recently let someone borrow the original films....

[ChadTower]

You could always VectorMAME the upright with just ESB/SW.  Keeps both alive in the absence of two sets of game boards.

[Level42]

The cockpits didn't usually use a 25"... only some of them did.  Most of the cockpits I've seen in person had 19".

I would do it in a heartbeat.  Then again, I have a complete Star Wars project with a badly water damaged cab, and the Star Wars cockpit is my vid holy grail. 

Do it.

Originaly all cockpits had 25" Amplifone's.

And of course I'm biased, but playing SW in a cockpit is the only proper way to play it. After all, you're in your X-wing. And the pilot of an X-wing is supposed to be seated ! 

[ChadTower]

Originaly all cockpits had 25" Amplifone's.

I've had several very credible people here tell me that isn't the case.  Perhaps it was in Europe?  I mean, they could all be wrong but I really doubt it.

[m_mcgover]

Hey, does anyone have a 19" Amp in their cockpit right now?

I'd love some pictures with the bezel & plexiglass removed so I can see how the monitor was mounted in there.

Thanks!

[CheffoJeffo]

Do it Frizz ... with your continued luck, a 25" Amp will drop out of the sky. 

 

[RayB]

I too had always heard the cockpits with 25" were RARE and thus commanded more coin.

[ChadTower]

I too had always heard the cockpits with 25" were RARE and thus commanded more coin.

Back when I first got into this hobby (2002 or so) I was specifically looking for a cockpit... a good, reliable upright was about $1000.  Same as cockpit, maybe $1400.  A cockpit with a 25" was $2000.

[2600]

Anyone remember the cockpit being a little bit more roomier in the past?

[ChadTower]

I remember the pilot being a whole lot better looking.   

[2600]

I remember the pilot being a whole lot better looking.   

Awesome.

[Level42]

We've discussed this before and I still stand by my claim that ALL factory fresh cockpits (both US and Irish built) had 25" Amplifones installed and nothing else. I don't know this for a fact, but I still have to see proof of the oposite.

If there's something else in a cockpit, it's a retrofit.

There is NO mention of a 19" monitor in the cockpit manual. Atari always mentioned it in service manuals if other options were available/installed.

But the most proof to me: I've still to see a picture of a factory mounted 19" in a cockpit.

[patrickl]

Anyone remember the cockpit being a little bit more roomier in the past?

Looks like someone ate too many Frizzled Fries 

[FrizzleFried]

I remember the pilot being a whole lot better looking.   

Since i can't remember a woman EVER sitting in a SW cockpit I can only assume you're attracted to men...in which case I feel ever-so-slightly more secure in knowing you're not attracted to me Chad...

Just don't walk behind me please.

[ChadTower]

Keep trying, Frizz, just don't burn your bulb out.

Credit to Level42 for the photo.

[FrizzleFried]

Keep trying, Frizz, just don't burn your bulb out.

EVER sitting in a SW cockpit [emphasis added]

[Level42]

I wonder if we would have gotten Luc's cockpit ready in time for the fair if she's played it as well.......

[ChadTower]

Keep trying, Frizz, just don't burn your bulb out.

EVER sitting in a SW cockpit [emphasis added]

You said that, not me, bro... I never specified because I was referring to that picture.

[jow]

Well, if its any consolation, a hot chick took the pic (IMHO).

[Level42]

Who you're calling a hot chick ? Huh ?





O, you mean Frizz's pic 

Frizz, get that cockpit. It's only 50 bucks. If nothing else, you can put one side on the wall as a decoration.....and I'd like that US marquee glass


(Can't believe I just typed that.....)

[RetroACTIVE]

"NNNOOOOOO"

Sorry couldn't resist 

[Spyridon]

Definitely get that cab.  It would make an excellent MAME racing cab.  I hear Great 1000 Miles Rally is a great fit for it.   

[Level42]

By the way Frizz, you'll HAVE to get it, else this thread will be moved to the Arcade Misc. section........



 

[Paladin]

If you do some googling, you'll find there's info out there about making a 25".  I think it uses a 25" raster tube with 19" wg6100 yoke and boards, but don't quote me on that.

[ChadTower]

While sorta true, it's also WAY beyond the skills of most people. 

[Level42]

So did you get it Frizz ?

[Mauzy]

Yea did ya?

BTW, what the HELL is your display pic?

[Spyridon]

BTW, what the HELL is your display pic?

You really don't want to know.

[FrizzleFried]

Yea did ya?

BTW, what the HELL is your display pic?

That would be the festering wound that won't go away on my right ankle... $655.00 in bills, 4 doctors visits,  and that is the result thus far.  Tasty, eh?

[TheShanMan]

That was my guess! Sorry to hear you're still dealing with it Friz. That sucks!

[Level42]

The good news is  that for playing Star Wars in a cockpit, you do not need any legs at all.


 




Seriously, that looks nasty. Hope someone can help you.

[Mauzy]

Yea did ya?

BTW, what the HELL is your display pic?

That would be the festering wound that won't go away on my right ankle... $655.00 in bills, 4 doctors visits,  and that is the result thus far.  Tasty, eh?

Indeed. Hope you can figure that out some day.

[ChadTower]

I don't want to look at that.  Guess I have to put Frizz on ignore for the time being. 

[FrizzleFried]

I don't want to look at that.  Guess I have to put Frizz on ignore for the time being. 

Jesus Christ...if I knew it was THAT EASY I'd have cut a chunk out of my leg and used a photo of it as an avatar YEARS ago!   

[patrickl]

I don't want to look at that.  Guess I have to put Frizz on ignore for the time being. 

Or switch off the Avatars. People here keep changing their Avatars so often that they lost their function anyway.

[ChadTower]

Or switch off the Avatars. People here keep changing their Avatars so often that they lost their function anyway.

That's probably true.  I haven't changed my avatar in like ten years.

[Level42]

I don't want to look at that.  Guess I have to put Frizz on ignore for the time being. 

Or switch off the Avatars. People here keep changing their Avatars so often that they lost their function anyway.

Yeah, I'm guilty of that, but I think I'll stick with this one Patrick !






For now......

[Neverending Project]

That would be the festering wound that won't go away on my right ankle... $655.00 in bills, 4 doctors visits,  and that is the result thus far.  Tasty, eh?

It looks like a picture of one of those experiments where they grew an ear on the back of a mouse.

[m_mcgover]

All of this is just stall tactics...did you pick up the cockpit or not?!?!?

Or...are you in process and don't want to comment for fear of the self-kibosh?

[FrizzleFried]

Hehehe...still on the fence...still can get it...it's not going anywhere anytime soon.

[FrizzleFried]

Alright...finally...pictures have come in on this bad boy.  Also,  the terms have changed.  What I thought I could get for $50.00 is actually $130.00.   Still,  after seeing these picture,  even with the little room I have,  I am SOOOOO tempted.

Questions: (A) It has a 25" tube...I assume for an Amplifone.  Are the chassis hard to come by or is it the tube that is hard to come by?  and (B) How hard is it to retrofit a 19" WG in to this bad boy?

Here are some pictures.  Opinions?   Should I pull the trigger?

[shardian]

That isn't gutted - the boards and chassis are gone. It appears that everything else is still there. The Yoke is repairable, and is probably worth the asking price in its current condition.

The only question left is where in the world do you plan on putting this thing? You have ZERO room left!

[meany]

Buy it.  You couldn't build that for $130.  You'll figure out the details after you get the cab.  You should keep it as a 25".  Do not gut your stand up, just find parts for the cab.

[ChadTower]

I'd pay $130 for that and spend the rest of the weekend staring at it in shock and awe.  $130 for a really nice grail cabinet, with the tube and with the very expensive yoke, is almost grand theft.  Part with a couple other games if you need the space.  This is the difference between a nice gameroom and a holy eff gameroom.

[FrizzleFried]

That isn't gutted - the boards and chassis are gone. It appears that everything else is still there. The Yoke is repairable, and is probably worth the asking price in its current condition.

The only question left is where in the world do you plan on putting this thing? You have ZERO room left!

THAT,  my friend,  is the problem.  I figure since I will be losing the SW upright I will then have to compensate for 2 additional cabs.  So basically I lose 2 cabs to this thing... maybe!

I have an idea on how to arrange the room where it will take up only the same "space" as the upright + space that is currently open space.  The room will be a little more cramped,  but it should work.

I am about 80% there...  

EDIT: Wife not happy... but not a deal breaker kind of not happy...

I just shot the guy out an email. 

[Level42]

Go Frizz !

You won't regret it. Playing SW in a cockpit is 10 times more fun then the upright.

Yes that looks like an Amplifone tube. I regularly see all needed parts (deflection board and HV board) on the bay. Definitely stick with the Amplifone ! Not only does it look better, it's SO much more easy to repair and get stable.

The only expensive thing missing is the board-set. Those are not very easy to get and at least 200 bucks.

The yoke seems to have a wrong sticker on the cover.

[ChadTower]

The yoke seems to have a wrong sticker on the cover.

Firefox strikes again!  Call RayB!

[FrizzleFried]

I am guessing a working AMP is going to cost me an arm and a leg...I'll likely drop the WG in there for now and patiently keep my eyes open for an AMP.

I'll worry about the boardset once I get the cockpit completed...then I'll re-focus on the upright.

[FrizzleFried]

BTW:  The guy responded...it's a done deal.  He's even going to deliver it (for some gas money).  All i got to say is this guy (his name is Chad) is straight up doing me a solid.  He recently raided a local warehouse and pulled a bunch of cabs.   This was one of them.  He figures he's not going to restore it,  but he wants to play it so he's giving it to me for what he paid for it.  Props to him for being a real stand-up guy.

[ChadTower]

Niiiiiice!   

[FrizzleFried]

...but sheesh...I need another project like I need a hole in the head.

Anyone want a Defender project for $75.00?

[TheShanMan]

Friz, that is awesome. Star Wars is cool as an UR, but the cockpit is super cool. It's been at least 20 years since I've played in one, but I recall it being a much better experience! Congratulations!

If you're short on space, time to buy a new house! That's a source of motivation for me and my wife. She sees me actively pursuing cab purchases (nothing coming together so far however), and she is complaining about our current lack of space, as well as "what are we going to do with it when we are ready to stage our house?" I tell her "I'm sure I can find friends willing to keep a cab at their house for a month or 2!"

[FrizzleFried]

Actually,  I've expanded in to the 2 car garage too...but that doesn't have the "ambiance" that the "gameroom" which is in the 1 car garage side has.  I have room,  but gameplay in the "garage" side doesn't feel quite as cool as in the gameroom side.  I have measurements and I think i will still have to lose 1 cabinet to get this in the gameroom side... it looks like the ole' Super Mario Bros will end up out in the garage...or perhaps the Multipede will...

[CheffoJeffo]

Wait a minute, I thought that there weren't any cabs in Idaho ... 

You are an excellent example for folks who keep saying that they can't find cabs where they are -- it always starts like that, but then snowballs until you can't find space for all of the cabs available in your area.

REALLY nice grab. 

[FrizzleFried]

Networking... it works (so it seems).

[ChadTower]

Networking... it works (so it seems).

Took me two years to get that down... eventually you get to the point where you can get a generic cab any time you want and a decent game easily... so you start waiting on stuff like a Star Wars cab or the Berzerk I'm working on now.

[RayB]

Real nice!  Time to start stacking games!

Keep the Amplifone. From what I've read, the tubes are higher resolution, giving sharper lines than a  WG.

[Level42]

Frizz, I've seen deflection boards go for around 50 bucks and HV boarrds a little higher. It's worth every freaking penny, even if you have to replace the HVT. I can talk you through ALL the work to be done. Besides, you'll need to sell the WG in the upright, right ?

If you're not going for it, I'll buy the 25" Amplifone tube and you can ship it together with the Defender project cab (hey I need a cab to put that new non-emulation multi Williams board in !)....

[FrizzleFried]

I did it!  It's here!

Here are some photos...

[FrizzleFried]

Frizz, I've seen deflection boards go for around 50 bucks and HV boarrds a little higher. It's worth every freaking penny, even if you have to replace the HVT. I can talk you through ALL the work to be done. Besides, you'll need to sell the WG in the upright, right ?

If you're not going for it, I'll buy the 25" Amplifone tube and you can ship it together with the Defender project cab (hey I need a cab to put that new non-emulation multi Williams board in !)....

If you're telling me i can get an amplifone up and running for under a couple hundred total,  I am interested in talking.  First off,  I need to determine if my tube is an amp compatible tube...and how burned it may/may not be.

[TheShanMan]

Frizz, glad you decided to get it. Looks nice! Even though I don't have a Star Wars, I have the luxury of being able to play it at the retro Ground Kontrol arcade in Portland. But it's a stand up. I bet you'll enjoy the experience a whole lot more in that cockpit!

[Level42]

Deleted.

[FrizzleFried]

I'm on my way!  W00t!  I've decided that rather than gut the upright to get the cockpit going I am going to restore the cockpit separate from the upright then sell the upright.  Well,  I managed to source working amplifone PCBs yesterday.  They cost me a fortune ($325.00 shipped),  but they are guaranteed working and from a reputable source.   The 25" amp compatible tube I have in the cabinet is in decent shape but with about 1/8" burn in the middle... Not terrible,  but still sucks a bit...I think I will live.

I also have sourced a working set of SW PCB's but the guy wants $300 shipped for them.   A bit steep.  I am trying to locate working boards for closer to $200 or so.  I also found someone who wants the upright when I am ready to sell.

When all is said and done I should have a working cockpit instead of the upright for about zero dollars....I may even make a couple bucks on the deal in the long run.

[ChadTower]

Awesome.  I'm hugely jealous.   

[spacies]

Congrats Frizzle!

[RayB]

It needs a set of wheels and headlights.

[FrizzleFried]

It has wheels... no headlights though.



This has been a great week for me.  I managed to find working Amp PCBs....a working set of SW PCBs.... and a working 19" medium resolution monitor CHEAP (for an A.P.B. I have sitting here)...

[FrizzleFried]

Updates:

THE GOOD -

Star Wars boards arrived and they work!  I pulled my SW/ESB boards from the upright and dropped the newly acquired SW boards in...fired right up!  Good news!

The Amplifone pcb's I bought arrived and they came with a few extra's!  The guy was supposed to send me JUST the PCB's...he'd wanted $50.00 more + shipping than what I paid total for the whole monitor,  but I'd talked him in to sending just the boards (since that is all I needed (so I thought...more later on this)).  Well,  the package arrived and it was BIG...and HEAVY.  The guy sent the whole monitor.  As I was digging through the packaging peanuts I came across much more... about 20 sticks of ROMS/RAMs, etc,  some sockets,  and even the aluminum mountings for the 19" to be used in a SW cockpit (I think that is what they are)!  I immediately emailed the guy asking if he'd sent a bonus and thanks for the tube/yoke, etc.  Well,  from the best I can gather,  he already had this thing packaged up for some time.  He said he FORGOT the other items in there,  but "As long as there's not a check for $10,000 they are yours".  W00t!

Yesterday the ARII-02 arrived.  $30.00 for a freshly rebuilt one shipped wasn't bad.

After cleaning up a mouse nest,  a decent amount of mouse ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and piss I proceeded to install everything...and the good news is that the game fired right up.  "May the Force Be With You!" I hear....good!  Now I check the screen ad we get to...

THE BAD -

The screen is jacked.  By jacked I mean all I can see are the trace lines in green.  Period.  Then the screen shuts down.  I turn the game off,  adjust the screen pot as low as it can go (counter clockwise) fire it up...and the damn green tracelines appear again?!  The screen pot won't actually turn the image completely off.  So I test the HV which comes in at 14,500 volts...low.  Using the AMP FAQ I adjust the over-volt protection to mid-range then adjust the HV pot...strangely all the way counter clockwise is 18,000v +/- and as I turn clockwise the voltage DECREASES?!

I adjust the color pots and the green color does nothing...this is what makes me really worry.

There seems to be three problems...one the color isn't responding on screen. Two, WTF is up with only the trace lines appearing and three WTF is up with the screen not being able to turn the image completely off?  There are a couple other minor issues like why HV maxes at 18,000v,  but i digress..

I figure the tube may be shot so I go grab the 19" tube that was sent (oh thank god it was sent!)...I plug it all in and I get the same trace line issue but the colors of the lines change with the color pots!!  That tells me the 25" tube is fuxored,  no?   Well,  I then turn off and figure I will re-test this boardset in the upright to make sure something didn't happen to the Z-band (is that what it's called) as it seems to be completely missing.  Knowing the boardset is in the cage nice and tight due to Mark Spaeths SW/ESB multikit I figure I will pull out the boards a 1/2" or so and then re-test.  Glad I did because all of a sudden I had COLORS and the trace lines almost went away!  W00T!  After adjusting the chassis a bit I got a beautiful picture out of the 19" tube!   Now to see if the 25" tube is jacked (as I expect it to be).  I pull the anode off the 19" and guess what,   the friggin' anode clip came about 90% loose.  After some inspection it appears the damn wire actually broke right at the clip.   It was getting late so today I get to desolder the broke wire from the clip then re-wire the clip to the wire and then test out the 25" tube.  Because the trace lines on the 19" changed color with the turn of the pots and the 25" stayed green I think I am screwed with the 25".  I also think it was an intervention of the arcade gods that had the seller send me the 19" tube when I didn't really buy it!

Oh yeah,  there is also a very loud HUM coming from the speakers (which I can hear sound from too)...that says to me that a couple wires are touching somewhere....but that's minor.

I HOPE to have a 25" cockpit rolling soon...but I am thinking in all reality I will be rolling with a 19" cockpit...but at least it will be a 19" amplifone cockpit,  right?

[Mauzy]

I can't wait for my day to find a seller who "forgets" theres a bunch of extras in a box... So far Ive only gotten a free Pac Man marquee with a dead Ms Pac set, and that was a year ago. I'm about due...

[ChadTower]

Can you really solder the anode wire?  I'd be nervous about that, worried that it might be too HV a junction for solder.

[shardian]

Can you really solder the anode wire?  I'd be nervous about that, worried that it might be too HV a junction for solder.

Dude, if your anode cap is getting hot enough to melt solder then you have bigger problems. You know, like plastic insulation melting and the rubber cap melting...and your house burning down.

[ChadTower]

You're probably right.  I tend to err on the side of caution in instances where one can burn the house down.   

[FrizzleFried]

Can you really solder the anode wire?  I'd be nervous about that, worried that it might be too HV a junction for solder.

Dude, if your anode cap is getting hot enough to melt solder then you have bigger problems. You know, like plastic insulation melting and the rubber cap melting...and your house burning down.

Worry not Chad...how do you think the anode clip is attached to the anode wire?   That's right...solder.  I surely didn't cut the wire in half and solder it midway and black tape it up.  I clipped off about 1/4" of the end of the wire,  exposed about 1/8" of the wire...desoldered the remaining wire/solder from the clip...inserted the wire in to the anode clip through the hole that's there to hold it...re-soldered...good as gold.

Worry not Shardian... I broke the clip off from removing and installing the damn thing back and forth between tubes about 4 times.  Force broke the wire/solder...not heat.

I've fixed the wire...but it seems my 25" tube is shot.  I am going to try to rejuv it,  but frankly,  it's looking pretty good I will have to go with the 19" amplifone tube.  Here is a shot taken AFTER I repaired the anode wire (again,  chad,  how did you think the clip was attached to the anode wire if not soldered?)...both monitors...I think the problem with the 25" is apparent.  >grin<



EDIT: And yes...believe it or not,  the shot of the 25" tube is with the screen pot turned ALL THE WAY DOWN!  Obviously Houston,   we have a problem.

[ChadTower]

I figured it would be crimped on, actually.  A crimp is a better physical connection.

[FrizzleFried]

I figured it would be crimped on, actually.  A crimp is a better physical connection.

It's both...sort of.  There is a small eyelet then you solder the wire through the eyelet.

Not actually crimped though...at least not this clip.  When I broke it off I just about ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---,  but the folks over at KLOV were like "just solder it back on dummy!"

[shardian]

No need to worry - I never suspected heat was the problem.

I also thought it would have been crimped though.

What I don't get though is why you are swapping a 19" and 25" tube? Are they really compatible outright with the same chassis? I thought you had to do some fancy readjusting to pull that off?
Forgive me if this is explained somewhere else in the thread.

[ChadTower]

I did some research into this a couple of years ago as I wanted to try a 27" or even a 32" tube for a vector monitor.  What the vectorlist guys told me was that if you found a tube with the same deflection angle you could do it with a chassis that could handle the power requirements.  Problems were that the vector monitors used a slightly different deflection angle from most televisions so it would be hard to find one that way, and it might require a little custom wiring on the neckboard connector as they likely won't be pin compatible.  I seem to remember them saying there was probably only 1-2 chassis that would make good candidates for a larger tube but don't remember which one it was at this point.  And that you'd probably shorten the life of an already hard to get flyback.

[FrizzleFried]

No need to worry - I never suspected heat was the problem.

I also thought it would have been crimped though.

What I don't get though is why you are swapping a 19" and 25" tube? Are they really compatible outright with the same chassis? I thought you had to do some fancy readjusting to pull that off?
Forgive me if this is explained somewhere else in the thread.

What I've been told is that the AMP chassis can be used for either a 19" or 25" tube compatible with it....without modification.  I can only imagine someone here or at KLOV would have spoken up otherwise (since I did ask about it as well).

[FrizzleFried]

100 degree tubes is what I was told.

[ChadTower]

Yeah, and most TVs that aren't 40 years old will be either 90 or 110 IIRC.  And I never did find someone who could tell me a way to determine that without opening up the TV or having the service manual so hunting around recycling centers wasn't viable.

[Level42]

No need to worry - I never suspected heat was the problem.

I also thought it would have been crimped though.

What I don't get though is why you are swapping a 19" and 25" tube? Are they really compatible outright with the same chassis? I thought you had to do some fancy readjusting to pull that off?
Forgive me if this is explained somewhere else in the thread.

What I've been told is that the AMP chassis can be used for either a 19" or 25" tube compatible with it....without modification.  I can only imagine someone here or at KLOV would have spoken up otherwise (since I did ask about it as well).

Indeed. You can swap them around at will. It will require some height/width adjustment probably.

[FrizzleFried]

I borrowed a rejuvenator to work on my 25" amp tube.  It seems all 3 guns showed they were shorted to heater,  but looking at the screen it seemed likely GREEN was the culprit.  I rejuved all 3 guns anyway.  After the first round THE GREEN TRACELINES DISAPPEARED!  Woohoo!  The tube tested fine but all colors save for green were very very light plus I had a strange smudging effect going on with the green gun at the bottom 20% of the screen.  What the hell,  I ran it through a 2nd run with the rejuvenator (still at the lowest settings).  This time things look MUCH MUCH better...

I still have some adjusting to do...but take a look at the result thus far.  (the blurry image is due to a too-long exposure time with the camera,  not the tube)

[shardian]

Boy, talk about a sweet ass early Christmas Present. Congrats on the improvements - hope you get it to good working condition.

[FrizzleFried]

It's VERY close.  I need to tweak the blue a bit...and a little of the red...and some geometry issues... and the blue looks a hair out off convergence,  but it could be just because it's a little overpowered...

Then it's time to rebuild the yoke.  Only one button works on it (the yoke CONTROLLER that is).

Then there is a real loud HUM in the audio that will need to be looked in to (though I think it may be related to the marquee light because something in the marquee is vibrating (i'm guessing the transformer?).

[FrizzleFried]

...done!  Well...almost.  I adjusted the monitor...I fixed the yoke (it was missing a microswitch and 1 button ...I happen to have a rebuild kit!)...but for the life of me I can not track down the audio hum.  The damn hum is constant regardless of game volume.  It's pretty loud...not loud enough to be distracting during game play but during attract it's loud enough to annoy.  Any suggestions?  It wasn't the light fixture as I thought it may be.

Here is a pic...

[Level42]

Frizz.




Welcome to the club !



 


Well done on the rejuvenating !



However, you do need a better camera. That machine looks lovely but the picture sucks.

[FrizzleFried]

It was shot with the flash off to get the glow of the screen & marquee.   I've a little more cleaning up to do and then I'll take a pic or to of it "in the light of day"... and hopefully in it's new home.

[drawfull]

Fantastic, everytime I see one of these damn things I start wanting one all over again. Great job.

[ChadTower]

Audio hum is probably either some AC leaking into the audio circuit or a flaky ground someplace.  Redo all of the grounds in the audio circuit and re-cap everything in the audio loop.  If that doesn't help just redo all of the connectors, since they need it anyway, because all Atari cabs do.

[RayB]

  nice

Regarding hum: Have you replaced the Big Blue yet?

[JimmyU]

Damn Frizz...That's looking mighty fine.  Good job.

[FrizzleFried]

nice

Regarding hum: Have you replaced the Big Blue yet?

The first thing I am going to do when I have a little free time...likely Friday.

[FrizzleFried]

Well...I had SOME success with the hum,  but not fully.  I removed the power supply and cleaned it up (determining that I have a serial number of SD00045 in the process!)...cleaned up the fuse block and replaced the Big Blue.  I was a bit disappointed when i plugged it all in and heard "hum"...

It's about 1/2 the volume it was before,  but it is still there.  I then cleaned the edge connector a bit with a business card...no help.

>argh!<

The hum isn't terrible,  but it's there...and annoys me a bit (except when playing as you really can't hear it with the music/sfx running).

I think I might buy a new fuse block... but I dunno.

Anyway...here is the first pic of her in the gameroom.  This is likely a temporary location until I figure out what,  exactly,  I am going to do with the gameroom.  By popular demand I am removing a few games and putting a couch/futon back in the room...

[rovingmind]

I hate you!!!!

(j/k)   

congrats on such an awesome find and getting it working again

If i was closer to your house i would show up with a pickle jar of quarters and a six pack.

[FrizzleFried]

...anytime!

...and here she is in her new "home"...

[shardian]

Are your speaker/audio wires bundled with anything? If so, run them separate. Maybe that will clear it up a bit more.

[Level42]

About the hum: you do know there's a fan in there right Frizz  

Try to run it without the extra connection board (the one that "closes" the cage.

Eliminates half of the connectors.....

If any connector gets off very easy, replace. (see my MC cabaret thread).

[FrizzleFried]

Yes sir...I know there is a fan in there (actually,  I just got a replacement fan for it as well as a 2nd fan to direct toward the Amp HV board)... but that's not the static...I know as I took it off line just in case.  The PCB + Filterboard came from the upright that had zero hum.  There was some mouse activity throughout the cab and there is a chance one of them chewed up some of the wiring that runs under the cab between the front and back...but it's such a ---smurfette--- to get to,  I am not sure.   Plus there is the chance the edge connector itself is a bit lacking.

It really isn't too loud anymore...you can barely hear it unless there's no other game running.

[shardian]

Yes sir...I know there is a fan in there (actually,  I just got a replacement fan for it as well as a 2nd fan to direct toward the Amp HV board)... but that's not the static...I know as I took it off line just in case.  The PCB + Filterboard came from the upright that had zero hum.  There was some mouse activity throughout the cab and there is a chance one of them chewed up some of the wiring that runs under the cab between the front and back...but it's such a ---smurf--- to get to,  I am not sure.   Plus there is the chance the edge connector itself is a bit lacking.

It really isn't too loud anymore...you can barely hear it unless there's no other game running.

Ahh Irony. I got my Xevious up and running last weekend, and I have odd speaker static too.

[Level42]

O my god, a mushroom broke through the CP !

[danny_galaga]

have you got a fire extinguisher handy for that monitor? 

excellent result! i played a cockpit for the first time at 'game on'. but it was running an emu and a pc screen  . i hope i get to see the real deal one day...

[Level42]

have you got a fire extinguisher handy for that monitor? 

Why ? The Amplifone/WG 6100 have their issues, but they're not known for bursting into fire.

The G08 is a different story though....