Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

TheShanMan's Defender restoration - New repro wiring harnesses!!!

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TheShanMan:
Thanks Ummon. Since I'm new to buying cabinets, I don't have a great feel for what is good condition or what I should pay for a certain condition, but Peale and RetroACTIVE were kind enough to offer advice to me based on the description I got yesterday. I also thought it was good condition for the money, but as a noob it's nice to get confirmation from others here.

Thanks to Peale for directing me to online manuals. And thanks to Steve as well (not sure if they're the same files yet, or if one set of files is better than the other). Looks like there's a lot that's defender related, and I have plenty of reading to do. So far this is pretty exciting stuff. Hopefully it continues to be exciting, rather than getting old and frustrating. ;D

Oh, and can someone confirm for me that the PS isn't stock? Looks to me like the old one was scrapped and replaced.

SirPeale:

--- Quote from: TheShanMan on August 30, 2008, 08:26:13 pm ---I couldn't see any chips labeled 4116. Which ones are they? I felt every chip on all the boards, and none felt hot. I am curious about a seemingly missing rom chip in picture 3. Is that normal?

I pressed that momentary switch on the sound board, and a couple of minutes later it started playing some music, followed by an explosion sound, and then repeating over and over. What does that mean?

I looked at that dangling red wire, and it connects to one of the terminals for that dangling coil. What am I supposed to hook it up to?

--- End quote ---

The sound means your sound board appears to be working.  We'll get to that after we make sure everything else is working.  The sound board isn't necessary to gameplay, but we need to make sure everything else is working first.

I'm not seeing the dangling red wire.  I see the width coil, and the wires connected to it.

Let me say this: since it's currently working, DON'T SCREW WITH IT.  We can deal with other stuff in a bit.  Let's get the boards working.

The 4116 are the three banks of eight chips in the corner of the board.  Look closer, they should say 4116 on them, perhaps surrounded by other text.

Level42:
I'll be following this thead closely as I'm also working on a Defender from a fellow collector here that's completely dead. Don't get any picture and all the 4 LED's on the rom board are on. PSU is replaced with a switcher and supplies are OK.

Just for the sake of it, try the reset button on the soundboard. When I did that, i dot the "Defender" sound constantly repeating until I powered it off.

SirPeale:

--- Quote from: TheShanMan on August 30, 2008, 09:11:00 pm ---Oh, and can someone confirm for me that the PS isn't stock? Looks to me like the old one was scrapped and replaced.

--- End quote ---

You're correct.  Someone took out the linear PS and replaced it with a switcher.

TheShanMan:
Cleaned up the cpu/video board with vinegar and a toothbrush. Here's an after pic.

Only 4 of the ram chips have 4116 on them. The rest are something else. None of them get hot though.

I'm a little reluctant to pull the roms and re-seat them simply because they're kind of stuck in there. They will pop free with a little bit of effort but since they're 28 years old I don't know how worried I should be about breaking one. Am I being overly concerned?

What's the next step? Do I just need to buy a cap kit and start with that? Or are there any steps I can take now, before having to go down the road of replacing things (not that I wouldn't do the caps, but if I can get it running sooner than later I'd be happy!).

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