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my spinner hack using a mouse and a hard drive and a rubber band
IG-88:
Very Interesting....
I'm curious, doesn't the rubber band travel all up and down the shaft? How do you keep it in place? Also don't that type of rubber get brittle after a couple months exposed to the air?
What's the inside of the mouse look like?
Nevermind just seen your website. Very cool :applaud:
Xiaou2:
There was at least one person who made a Starwars flight yoke with optics...
and they regretted it.
Optics easily get out of calibration for Pot based games... and on devices like yokes...
you cant reset them easily. It would become very annoying very quickly.
Steven's International sells a nice set of green gears of varying sizes which
work excellent for yoke/pot applications.
www.stevenshobby.com
Part# SVM-MR8
facesmiths:
I thought the travel was going ot be a problem to but it wasn't got the angle and positioning right the first time and yes sadly they do degrade so as soon as I can find a way to make a printer band solid I will try to migrate to one of those. ( rubber with some sort of cloth string type stuff inside and usually has gear ribbing so go on the motor and around something to move cartridges and such) as for the optics needing recalibrated I am not sure how it is going ot go but I am going to try and leave enough movement to allow the person to simply swing it over the edge of the screen to calibrate it them selves. we'll see how it goes and maybe a new approch will be garnered :D maybe not and I may have to go the other route but I will look over www.sdp-si.com/ gears to be sure as well
DaOld Man:
I like this idea.
You might want to use a rubber o-ring in place of the rubber band. (Check your hardware store).
O-ring would probably last a lot longer than a rubber band, but wont stretch as much, so you will need to get one the right size.
Again, i like this idea!
:applaud:
facesmiths:
"O"rings man shear genius (and I am not kidding that is really awesome I had not thought of it. though unfortunatly this will die as soon as I finish getting my table top CNC mill running again.(space constraints) then I will start cutting encoder wheels and just do a "direct drive" type of install. this may be the way to go with my yoke too since I will know exactly how many passes the sensors will get and then calculate to avoid calibration issues but I am leaning toward not blocking movement on either rotation on those so it can be re calibrated by the person playing in mid game if need be. I have played it with a track ball and it works excellently. will see soon enough I suppose as I am possessed by this hobby :D
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